OB99W

The Subaru 38325AA032 typically sells for about $26 through online dealers. Yes, there's the cost of shipping added, but (especially if you're ordering other parts at the same time) it might be worthwhile anyway.

As Skip mentioned, fluid problems can be the cause, and changing it if that hasn't been done recently is probably a good idea. The 4EAT, like most auto transmissions, is sensitive to fluid level. There's a detailed description of how to check it here: http://endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/02Winter4EATDiagServ.pdf Is the problem more evident when the trans is either cold or hot? As to the spin-on filter, I also don't know if there's a Mobil1-branded replacement available, but why do you ask? Yes, I know the OEM one is steeply priced; if that's the concern, perhaps try getting one from an online dealer. I had to replace the one on my '99 because it developed a leak in the shell. Apparently road salt (from deicing) had slowly eaten a hole through it!

Think of your engine as a "pump". Problems at either the intake or output (exhaust) can have similar results, to say nothing of the "pump" itself. If you own a vacuum gauge (if you don't, and want to do engine diagnosis, I strongly suggest that you get one), you can check for exhaust restrictions and a whole lot more. Rather than my just explaining how to check for restrictions, here are links to interpreting gauge readings (search the Web for others): http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm http://www.obd-codes.com/howto/diagnoseengine.php A vacuum gauge can be purchased for under $20, unless you buy a fancy one with a chrome bezel meant for dash mounting; in that case, some can cost more like $50. Of course, due to management systems, a poorly running engine may have electronic problems in addition to or instead of mechanical ones. Fortunately, a properly-used vacuum gauge can help to determine which is more likely.

Umm, if it is "the heater core filling up with fluid", there just might be something to worry about. A properly filled system doesn't have coolant voids ("air pockets").

Interesting; I didn't say that because I thought the response would be "conspiracy theory" . My '99 OBW usually gets 19-20 MPG (almost exclusively local driving, with Ithaca-area hills), but it's been down to about 16-17 on the last few tanks. No CELs, no dragging brakes, but perhaps somewhat colder weather. Heck, my '69 Firebird with a 350 c.i. engine got that kind of mileage .

Short-circuits ("shorts") can be a pain to find. However, let's not confuse a "short" with an "open". A "short" is a connection that occurs where one was not intended. Shorts to ground of sufficiently low resistance will typically cause a fuse to blow, circuit breaker to trip, or fusible link to melt (or a conductor to overheat if there's no protective device inline) due to excessive current being drawn. On the other hand, an "open" is when an intended connection doesn't occur. Since with an "open" power isn't delivered to the load, less current than normal is drawn. Some opens are as simple as a loose/corroded/blown fuse. (Don't be confused by the fact that "shorts" can cause "open" fuses :-\ .) My '99 OB has separate fuses for the left and right headlamps, and I suspect the 2002 does as well. Sometimes those fuses can blow when a headlamp filament fails, since a piece of it can land across the conductors and momentarily draw high current. So, you might want to check the fuses. If one is blown, and blows again after replacement, then there may indeed be a short. By the way, bad ground connections would be considered "opens".

Unfortunately, it's likely that HGs are the problem. That doesn't mean a defective radiator cap, thermostat, or water pump couldn't cause such symptoms, but it's less likely. By the way, anyone replacing those parts would do well to use OEM ones. As to the lack of heat from the heater - "no flow" can either mean a blockage or that there isn't much to flow; the latter is more likely. When it comes to blown HGs, it's more an issue of what they don't block than what they do. Looking at the accessory drive belts won't tell you if the water pump is being properly driven, because they don't drive it. However, since the engine seems to run okay outside of the coolant spewing, it's likely that the timing belt, which does drive the pump, is not the cause of this problem. If the coolant reservoir becomes full (the level normally falls within a specified range) when the problem occurs, and especially if much of it isn't pulled back into the cooling system as things cool down, that's typically an indication of leaking HGs. Subaru engines are a bit "different". While any "good" mechanic could probably do the HG work, one experienced on Subaru engines would likely be able to complete the job faster and with less grief. Just knowing how to purge the cooling system of air after doing all the work can mean the difference between success and rework/failure. If your current mechanic replaced the radiator "assuming it was blocked", rather than doing a flow test, I'd be a bit leery of going back there for major work. Best of luck.

Not that it's the most important thing right now, but did you ever check for clogged PCV valve/hose/etc. ? Wild hypothesis: Significant oil getting past rings may have partially plugged the catalytic converter. That can cause back-pressure, leading eventually to misfire. Raw fuel from sufficient misfire can cause the catalyst to overheat, possibly resulting in meltdown and further plugging. You originally mentioned that you were going to change the timing belt. Any chance it's worn enough to have jumped a tooth or so? John, do you own a vacuum gauge and know how to interpret readings? If so, it can tell you a lot about what's going on with your engine and exhaust. However (and please don't take this the wrong way), it may just be time for this problem to be seen by a professional mechanic.

Do they use much salt on the roads in your area? Often when there are electrical problems such as you're describing, a corroded ground connection is the cause. As an example, see: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/GroundsInfo.pdf

I usually find that when doing a head gasket job, more than just the HGs are needed to ensure things are sealed when it's all back together. A complete OEM gasket set is closer to $250, and there usually are incidentals. But my curiosity is aroused; what's the least in parts anyone here has used to successfully complete the HG job?

I hope you aren't suggesting that a Subaru engine could be repaired as readily or inexpensively as the Dodge. It's a lot easier to deal with an inline 4 than a horizontally-opposed one that's in a tight engine compartment. Even if one were to do the work themselves, the parts for Subaru that would likely be needed would probably run hundreds of dollars. Typical price for HG work by a mechanic seems to average around $1500 (independents possibly closer to $1000, some dealer shops nearer $2000). That may not mean that someone shouldn't consider a used Subaru from the "problem" years, but let's not sugarcoat the situation either. By the way, Damien, a Phase 2 SOHC engine doesn't guarantee that the HGs won't give you grief. True, the earlier ones (Phase 1 DOHC) have been known to develop internal leaks. However, some of the '00 and later models (Phase 2 SOHC) have had HGs that leak externally, so Phase 1 DOHC versus Phase 2 SOHC isn't the dividing line between trouble and care-free.

Most brake grease is silicone-based, because it withstands high temperatures and is compatible with rubber parts. Petroleum-based greases can swell and otherwise deteriorate certain rubber and plastic parts. Of course, be certain not to get any on pads/rotors. Flushing a brake system is not the same as bleeding it. The intent isn't just to get rid of air, but to remove "crud" as well. When flushing, don't stop just because there are no longer any bubbles visible, but keep going until what is coming out is as clear as the new fluid being poured into the master cylinder. Be careful when using a clamp or other tool to push back caliper pistons. If a piston is pushed back more than a small fraction of an inch while the bleed screw is still closed, any contaminants can be forced into the brake lines; if enough contaminated fluid is forced backwards, it can even get into the ABS hydraulics.

Here's some info to start with: http://endwrench.com/pdf/feb2004pdf/4EAT.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAatPh2Win04.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAT.pdf http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/02Winter4EATTransOp.pdf The above and more on the drivetrain are at: http://www.endwrench.com/archive/sysdrive.html

You're welcome. To head off any possible confusion, here's something I just said in another thread:

Resistance on the secondary side from 1-to-2 and 3-to-4 should be about 21 k ohms; can I assume that's what you found? Primary resistance from terminals 1-to-2 and 2-to-3 of the harness attached to the coil should each be about 0.7 ohms; I'd suggest retesting that. It would be correct to get no reading (or at least a very high one) from any of the primary terminals to the case. By the way, I noticed that there are errors in the "DirectIgnition.pdf" info. In the "Ignition Coil Testing" section, the terminal numbers listed are reversed between the primary and secondary; however, the diagram is labeled correctly. The correct numbering relative to expected resistance is in "IgnitionCoil.pdf"; you can use the diagram from "DirectIgnition.pdf" to identify the terminal numbers.

Or, are you perhaps the victim of one of these? http://www.zymetrical.com/product.asp?3=15

Okay, now I think you're just toying with us . The only thing I can think of that wouldn't change pitch with road speed, gear, etc., is something resonating due to air rushing past it, perhaps related to the exhaust system. Does it consistently "switch" on/off at 15 MPH if you let the car roll down a hill with the engine off ? (I'm only half kidding about that.)

Hmmm, an interesting, fortuitous discovery; so you have neither spark nor fuel on #4? If it was just one or the other, I'd probably say either "coil/igniter" or "injector", but with both out I'm thinking something in common. That could suggest a possible camshaft angle sensor (or reluctor) problem, or even the ECU. Of course, a "reliable" meter would be quite useful at this point.

That seems right; my '99 Legacy OB has DOHC heads, but best as I can tell, Phase 2 block.

This seems about right. I've also found that 2-3 PSI above spec keeps things happy, with wear across the tread fairly even. Choose a reasonable pressure, rotate tires, and check that neither center nor edges of tread are wearing faster than the other; adjust pressure slightly if necessary. However, some of you other folks are scaring me . A few years ago max inflation pressure for typical passenger tires was around 35 PSI. Then it became 44, and more recently 51 PSI. I can tell you with assurance that inflating a 195/60-15 tire mounted on a Legacy to 51 or even "just" 44 PSI will not likely result in a satisfactory ride, handling experience, or tire life. In fact, hitting a pothole (or something similar) with a tire inflated to 51 PSI is much more likely to damage it than one more reasonably inflated. In fact, besides the bone-jarring ride, your car's suspension will also take more of a beating. Of course, if the goal is great MPG or a new speed record at the Bonneville Salt Flats ...

Are you sure? The MY99 OB I own (bought new at the end of 1998) is definitely DOHC, although I don't know offhand which block it has; I've heard that some built in that time period are "hybrids". Does anyone know precisely how to "read" the cast-in "ridges" that supposedly allow you to identify these engines?

Depends on how you define "reliable". Even if you can make relative comparisons of 1&2 versus 3&4 resistance, for example, that might provide some insight. But certainly see if there's good spark at #4. By the way, if you're not already doing so, disconnecting the cylinder's fuel injector when a plug is out or not firing during ignition troubleshooting is probably a good idea. That helps minimize raw fuel washing oil off the cylinder wall, diluting the oil, and away from sensors and catalysts down the exhaust path.

Possible scenario: Burning oil and 180k miles might mean worn rings. Worn rings might allow more than average blowby. Blowby pressurizes the crankcase, especially if the PCV valve/system is clogged. That causes oil to be pushed out of various places, including past valve cover gaskets. So if the oil on plug #1 is on its outside (not the firing end), I'd verify that the PCV system isn't clogged. A "spitting" sound accompanied by misfire could be due to afterburn of fuel in the exhaust system. How did you check spark on #4? See if these help: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/IgnitionCoil.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DirectIgnition.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/IgnitionCoilSum04.pdf

Out of curiosity, I converted the usual English/SAE (1/16" increment) sizes to metric. Using 25.4mm/inch and no rounding, I got: 3/8" = 9.5250mm 7/16" = 11.1125mm 1/2" = 12.7000mm 9/16" = 14.2875mm 5/8" = 15.8750mm 11/16" = 17.4625mm 3/4" = 19.0500mm <<<<< 13/16" = 20.6375mm 7/8" = 22.2250mm 15/16" = 23.8125mm It appears that 3/4" is the only one that is almost exactly equivalent to a standard metric size (19mm), although a couple of the other English sizes might work on metric boltheads (depending on tolerances, and perhaps with the less-critical nature if using a 6-point as opposed to a 12-point socket). I'm not suggesting that incorrect tools be used. In an emergency some substitutes might be considered, and certainly 3/4" and 19mm seem fairly interchangeable.

Cupping typically occurs when there are loose suspension parts or tire imbalance, and can be made worse when combined with misalignment. Tires that have an uneven wear pattern will definitely be noisier than those that have even wear. Hopefully the shop that did the alignment checked for loose parts first, because aligning a vehicle that has sufficiently worn parts is usually a waste of time/money. It would seem prudent at this time to have another shop check the suspension, including struts/springs/bearings, for wear/damage/looseness. If the wheels/tires haven't been dynamically balanced recently, that should be considered. Have the balancer run at a few different speeds; if the balance changes with speed, there may be a tire defect.