OB99W

On my OB, the belt that drives the PS also drives the alternator, but it's not run in what I'd call a "serpentine" manner, although it is multi-ribbed. As long as the belt isn't severely cracked, missing ribs, or extremely glazed, you might be able to tighten it just a bit. If it's like my 2.5l, there's a tensioning device at the left (as you face it) front of the alternator. The adjustment bolt head is at the top, but don't turn it until you've slightly loosened the locking bolt, which is a bit below and faces forward (threaded into the alternator "ear"). After loosening the lock, I'd try turning the adjustment only one turn (clockwise), retighten the lock, and see if the problem is gone. If not, try again, but don't get too "ambitious"; if you overtighten the adjustment the alternator and PS pump bearings might start making their own bad sounds. --OB99W

As far as I know, since about '98 the ABS ECU (Electronic Control Unit) has been integrated with the hydraulic control. Look for a unit with four brake lines (steel tubing) coming out of it; on my '99 OBW, it's near the front right (passenger side) of the engine compartment. EDIT: Found this, might be interesting - http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ABS.pdf By the way, if an ABS wheel speed sensor cable gets damaged to the point that either its resistance or the signal from it changes enough from "normal", usually the ABS unit disables, signified by the dash ABS lamp being lit. With the Bosch system, you'll still have normal braking function, just no anti-lock. --OB99W

I suspect that those who lift the hood can often figure out for themselves what's making the noise, and don't need to post. --OB99W

For anyone interested, I just found some decent info about the charging system at End Wrench: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/BatteryAltWin03.pdf --OB99W

Hmmm, I didn't say that the alt and A/C are driven from the same belt, although I did suggest that they both were driven by and load the engine. That the test was run at 2,000 RPM doesn't indicate much about what happens when the fan problem is occuring at idle, which is what you've been saying. I don't know why you're assuming that because the alt output dropped very low when the A/C was turned on that the A/C is drawing nearly 40A; current doesn't get "depleted" that way. Rather than get into a long-winded explanation of Ohm's Law, etc., lets go back to the suggestion that you get your alt/bat/etc checked in addition to the rad fan controls. By the way, if you have a decent voltmeter you can do a quick check of your "low voltage" theory. A "12 volt" lead-acid battery is actually a series connection of six cells that when fully charged should be at about 2.1 volts each, for 12.6 volts at the terminals (if the battery has been recently charged, a slight "surface charge" may bring it above that, but running accessories for a few minutes with the engine off should bring it down to 12.6). After a short warmup, at idle the voltage across the battery terminals should be at least 13.5 volts if the alternator is functional. At higher RPMs and dependent on temperature and other factors, the voltage is often in the 13.8 - 14.8 volt range. If you don't see voltages around those, the charging system is suspect. The battery acts as both a storage device and a filter for the electrical system. It supplies current when the alternator can't make enough, especially at idle. Something as simple as a bad cable connection can prevent it being properly charged, delivering "make-up" current, and smoothing out alternator ripple and other voltage variations. Sometimes a connection that looks good can be resistive. Checking for a voltage drop from the battery post to the terminal (both positive and negative), especially under load, can detect that. Best of luck. --OB99W

Low electrical system voltage can cause lots of seemingly unrelated problems. I'm not sure whether this particular problem one is of them; a bad fan thermostat could certainly be the cause. Although a bad diode or regulator could limit output, I suspect that the low current when your A/C is on might have less to do with the alternator and more to do with what's driving it. From an electrical standpoint, the additional load of the compressor clutch and blower fan could cause a marginal alternator drive belt to slip. Make sure that it's in good shape and tight enough. From a mechanical aspect, the thing to consider is that engine RPMs will drop when loaded by the A/C. What Nipper said about alternator output should be kept in mind. Particularly at idle, a small drop in rotor shaft speed can make the difference between charging or not. Charge current can only flow from the alternator when its output voltage is higher than that of the battery. A small drop in engine RPM can bring the alternator speed below that threshold, even without an alternator defect. Interestingly, a "higher" output alternator won't necessarily assure you of more available current at low speed. In fact, just the opposite is often the case, and the "lower" output unit might produce more below a certain RPM. As has already been suggested, having the charging system and battery checked is probably a good idea. A decent shop will put an oscilloscope on the battery terminals with the engine running and look for uneven ripple, etc, from the alternator, which could indicate a bad diode or brush/slip-ring problems. An alternator output test done on a bench would allow the output versus speed to be checked. --OB99W

Thanks ferret; I used to live in Bergenfield (but didn't go to Liberty, since I bought the OB here). Tried PB, didn't help (see below), there was apparently only about 1/3 the original bolt diameter left near its head. Anyway... After replacing the left front wheel speed sensor on my '99 Legacy OBW, the ABS lamp is no longer lighting and the system is apparently working fine :cool:. I thought it might be useful to explain how I was able to obtain and clear the trouble code(s) without a scanner. The ABS lamp can flash out the trouble codes. It does it with a sequence of long and short flashes, which after going through all stored codes keeps repeating. Long flashes identify the first digit of a code, short ones the second digit. For example, a single long followed by a single short is code "11" (which, by the way, just signifies that the ABS is "talking" to you); two longs followed by three shorts is code "23", etc. Here's how to get to see those flashes (at least on a '99 OBW - others may vary): Behind the dash panel, low, above the accelerator pedal (near the green connectors), are a black 6-pin connector and two "probes" taped to the harness. That 6-pin connector is for diagnosis of the air bag and ABS systems, and the pinout looks something like the following (I hope this "code" format works): [1]------[2][3][4][5][6] ABS diagnosis connector pins With the engine off, I untaped the connector and probes from the harness, and further removed tape from one "probe" (metal terminal at the end of a grounded wire). I then inserted the probe into pin 6 (lower right with connector facing you as shown). Next, I turned the ignition key to the "on" position, but did not start the engine. The dash indicator lamps came on as usual, but the ABS lamp began to flash. I wasn't sure that I got the codes (in my case, 11 and 23) correct the first time around, but they repeated and I verified what I had. With the help of folks here and elsewhere, I was able to determine that the "23" code indicated a problem with the front left sensor. I turned the ignition to "off" and disconnected the probe from pin 6. After dealing with the rusty hardware (and yes, ferret, drilling/chipping out the remains of a snapped-off mounting bolt ), I mounted the new sensor and verified the gap between its pole piece and the tone wheel was within spec. A few trips with no ABS lamp remaining on after starting or coming on thereafter seems to indicate that the repair was successful. I had read that the ABS trouble codes don't automatically clear after a repair until quite a few ignition on/off cycles, but I also read how to clear them using the diagnosis connector and probe. I again connected the probe to pin 6, and turned the ignition switch to "on" (not starting the engine). Sure enough, the 11 and 23 codes still flashed. I then pulled the probe from pin 6 and quickly reinserted it three times (apparently you have to complete it within 12 seconds or so), leaving it in pin 6 the last time. I could hear the ABS unit go through a mechanical sequence (expected when codes are cleared). After turning the ignition to "off" and then "on" once more (again, not starting the engine), the ABS lamp flashed only "11"; "23" was no longer stored. So, I shut things down once more, disconnected and retaped the probes and connector. Done! Disclaimer: The above worked for me, but please don't try it unless you have the appropriate technical skills. Sometimes a good mechanic is a lot cheaper than a bad do-it-yourself job. Hmmmm, that was kind of long -- I hope some of you found it useful. --OB99W

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has databases with all kinds of useful info at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/ . Safety-related recalls and TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) are among the things to be found there. The basic summaries are free, and you can get the details for a fee. Searches can be done using make/model/year. Another source: http://www.autoweb.com/content/own/service/index.cfm/action/recalls I don't know how up-to-date these listings are. As far as I know, recalls for safety reasons normally don't expire, and if they weren't addressed for the original owner they will be covered for succeeding owners. On the other hand, certain "actions" are not considered safety recalls, and those may be limited with respect to time/mileage/owner/etc. --OB99W

Seems right -- 65 ft-lb is the middle of the "58 to 72 ft-lb" range my '99 Subaru manual states. By the way, even if the rotors got warped from uneven- or over-tightening, that doesn't alway mean they have to be replaced. First, just remove the wheels and make sure the mounting surfaces are clean. Then replace and retighten correctly (torque and tightening sequence). Check for pulsation; it may already be gone. If not, sometimes some hard braking (down a long hill?), sufficient to get the rotors warm enough, will cause them to "relax" and straighten out. Obviously, don't try this if road or traffic conditions would make it unsafe. --OB99W

Well, my '99 Owner's Manual says "58 to 72 ft-lb (78 to 98 N-m, 8 to 10 kg-m)". It may or may not be the same for your '02. Check your owner's manual; in mine, rather than being in the "Specifications" or "Maintenance and service" sections (where I expected to find it), it was given in the "Flat tires" part of "In case of emergency" - I suppose that's logical . --OB99W

Even if there's no corrosion, the tapered joints sometimes just need a bit of "persuasion". Unless you're incredibly lucky or skilled, forks often wind up ripping a joint's grease retainer. If you don't intend to replace the tie rod, that may not be the best tool to use. As has been suggested, you probably want something like this..., http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=OTC6296 ...to be used something like this: http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/html/ccr/ccr20021001tr.html Since the arms are not adjustable on these, be sure to get one that has the proper spacing so that it grabs as much metal as possible without damaging the grease retainer. The ABS wheel sensor is nearby, so it might be prudent to limit the hammer blows. Usually if you crank down on the puller, tap not too violently on the sides of the knuckle, and again tighten the puller (keep alternating between the two as needed), the joint will pop free with a little effort. If you're working where it's cold, warming the knuckle a bit with a hair dryer might also help; don't overdo it, since neither the grease retainer nor the wheel sensor will appreciate that, and if you've used a flammable penetrating fluid, be especially careful. I hope that helps. Good luck. --OB99W

I'm not a betting man. You probably know this, but if not... As long as the additive is "on board", the HGs get an extended warranty for 8 years or 100,000 miles (from time of original delivery). So if they fail tomorrow or not until right before the 8yr/100k limit, you're now covered as long as you replace the additive if/when the coolant gets changed. Seems you've got 42k miles or about 3.5 years, whichever comes first, to see if the magic elixer works. --OB99W

If you're getting bubbles, a test can be made for CO (carbon monoxide), which would verify exhaust gases. --OB99W

From http://www.allsubaru.com/faq.html "The heater uses standard 115 volts of power and draws 400 watts." So, that's at least the case for the one used with recent models. --OB99W

If you elect #4 (and I'm not suggesting it's the best approach), or even if other work is done, by all means fix the parking brake. If you are parallel parking on a street with good (high enough) curbs, then turning the wheels in addition to setting the parking brake is usually the proper procedure. Rather than describe how that's done, since it varies with uphill and downhiil parking, as well as when there's no curb, here are a couple of links that describe the technique: http://www.nydmv.state.ny.us/dmanual/chapter07-manual.htm http://www.ehow.com/how_1869_park-hill.html I'm not trying to be a "wise guy", so sorry if you were already aware of this, or it can't be applied in your situation. Chocking the wheels probably couldn't hurt under any condition. --OB99W

The average (day/night) temp in central NY for the last two days has been around 25 degrees F. I doubt if your block heater got the engine past normal operating temp, even if left on for a couple of days straight, unless it's grossly oversized. The thing you may have hurt slightly is your wallet, to pay for a few kilowatthours of power. You might consider getting a timer to plug the heater into. The 24-hour type would probably do, but the ones programmable by the week allow you to have a different schedule for certain days, like the weekend. Just make sure that the timer contacts are rated to handle the current your block heater draws. --OB99W

It's been said before, but it stands repeating: Don't drive the car when it's severely overheating; even if the cause is initially something minor, it will rapidly become major. Having said that... Your problem needs further diagnosis. I don't want to give you false hope, and the HGs are a possibility that may be becoming more likely, but there are still some less-expensive potential causes. Boiling (which can be due to localized overheating) can just as readily blow coolant out of the system as can cylinder gases. The first thing to do is make sure the coolant is topped off again, and purged of air. Next, verify that the fans are running. When warm, at least one should be on, and then with A/C running both should operate. When cruising at highway speeds, especially in cool weather, the air flow even without the fans might be sufficient to prevent overheating. Hill climbing or "spirited" driving (as you described it) could then make fan problems evident. (By the way, do you hear any engine "ping"?) A marginal water pump might also only become a problem under more-demanding conditions. One thing you could try is running the heater at full blast while "pushing" things, and see whether the engine temp still becomes excessive. If it "keeps it's cool", it's more likely that the problem is cooling-system related; if not, HGs become higher on the list of suspects. --OB99W

Thanks for the info, but the link as given results in:Page Not Found The page you were looking for has either been renamed or removed. Please use our search box at the top of the page to find the products you are looking for. Seems there's a stray hyphen above. However, this seems to work: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis22150.html --OB99W

Setright posted a change to his coolant refilling procedure today, adding it to the end of the thread that I gave a link to yesterday. You should probably take a look if you haven't already seen it. --OB99W

Before you do the job, it's very important to know how to minimize air getting trapped in the cooling system. If you haven't already seen this procedure by Setright, do yourself a favor and take a look: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681 Once you've got the system filled and have warmed up the engine, make a note of (or mark) how high the coolant is in the overflow tank. After you turn the engine off, some coolant should eventually be pulled back into the radiator from the overflow tank; if not, there are a few possibilities: 1) You did a fantastic job of purging the system, leaving no air in it at all, and your coolant doesn't expand when hot. (In other words, not very likely!) 2) You did such a poor job of purging the system of air that it can't develop enough suction. 3) The aftermarket radiator cap isn't working correctly, and an OEM one might be needed. 4) Uh-oh, the suction that should be created by contraction is being bled off elsewhere, or "air" is being introduced again, possibly via HG leaks. Good luck. Let us know how it goes. --OB99W

As has been mentioned already, this "sounds" like a vacuum leak or some sort of pressure equalization happening. Spraying a fluid at suspected areas may or may not help localize the culprit. Since the noise is evident with the engine off, it's probably safest to work that way. First try to get a sense of the general area the noise is coming from. Then, a tool I've used that often helps to home in on things like this is a stethoscope, or something equivalent. A piece of tubing (vacuum hose, etc.) works well; just hold one end to an ear, and move the other end near the apparent source. You'd be amazed at how much easier it often is to pinpoint the sound that way. --OB99W

Oooops, double-post. That'll teach me to do this when I should be asleep.

There's nothing I can think of but a catastrophic failure to cause the symptoms you describe. Likely bad head gasket(s), but could even be a cracked block. See http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/ and visit the guest book to get an idea of just how bad the HG problem is. Sorry... --OB99W

I'd expect a 2001 OB to have a phase 2 (SOHC) engine. If you're the original owner, and kept Subaru informed of your address if you moved after the purchase, you should have received an "Official Owner Notification Letter". The letter informed owners of "certain model year vehicles starting in 1999 through 2002" that if they brought their cars to the dealer, they would add "Subaru Cooling System Conditioner" to the cooling system. As long as you did so, and replaced the conditioner whenever the coolant was replaced, Subaru extended the warranty. ("If so, Subaru will extend coverage under the Subaru Limited Warranty on your vehicle for cylinder head gasket external coolant leaks to a period of 8 years or 100,000 miles, whichever occurs first.") It's obvious that your 2001 is less than 8 years old, and you said the dealer work was at the 75,000 mile mark, so if the "conditioner" was previously added, you should be covered. If you never got the letter, or didn't go to the dealer, or I'm wrong about your car falling under this "campaign", you may have an expensive problem. Best of luck. --OB99W

It isn't always easy to diagnose bad HGs. Especially when they first start failing, the problem can be subtle. However, if you aren't seeing bubbles in the radiator (note that they can be small), and the coolant isn't contaminated, there's at least a chance that the t-stat is your problem. Also, if you haven't made certain that there isn't air trapped in the cooling system, that's another thing to look into. You can find the t-stat by following the lower radiator hose. The housing is held in place with two bolts. Obviously, because of the location, removing it will cause loss of most of the coolant from the radiator and block, possibly onto you. Therefore, you may want to drain the system before pulling the t-stat. If you decide to get a replacement, be sure it's an original (OEM); the aftermarket ones often don't work the same way. Also, be sure to get a new gasket; make sure the surfaces are clean. Be careful to note the way the original stat is mounted; putting the replacement in upside down won't help . There's a plug at the top of the rad that should be pulled while refilling to help bleed air. Is it just the t-stat? Well, one of the things you can do is have your car's cooling system checked for hydrocarbons. Pretty much any that show up there is an indication of bad HGs. If that test is negative, or you're just willing to risk a few bucks, the stat is worth looking at. Here are a few threads to read and hopefully give you a bit more insight: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46479 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47462 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42014 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19458 I'd suggest you further search this forum; there's lots of good info here. --OB99W