OB99W

The throttle position sensor code is the one to concentrate on, since the other two won't stop the engine from running. If the TPS was okay before the rebuild, and you didn't "play" with it, then the trouble is likely to be connector related. I'd suggest carefully rechecking engine connector seating. Make sure they're fully engaged, and that no contacts have gotten bent.

It's unlikely that a single bad fuse would explain the multiple failures. Are any dash warning lights on? If the lights for brake and battery are lit with the engine running, it's likely that the alternator has failed. If neither of those are on, you might have a poor connection in an area of major power distribution. Sometimes a bad ignition switch can cause this sort of problem.

The battery and brake lights coming on indicate that the alternator field winding isn't being sufficiently energized. Purely and simply, under that condition your battery isn't being charged adequately. Given the importance of your trip, and the lack of time to do a repair, I'd suggest that you either borrow or rent a car, and deal with the charging problem after you've passed the bar.

A 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol and water as coolant, pressurized to 13 lbs, shouldn't boil until at least 250 degrees F. As long as the water pump is properly circulating the coolant and the radiator and fans are doing their jobs, there shouldn't be any boiling if the engine is staying well below 250 F. So, going back to an earlier post in this thread... ... just how hot did it get before going back to 196? Keep in mind that all engines have hot spots that are significantly warmer than the block's average. If coolant isn't moving fast enough past those points, it can boil even if the system pressure and coolant mix are okay. When the engine is shut down after being run for a while, those hot spots can cause instantaneous boiling for a short time if system pressure isn't holding or the cooling was marginal due to clogs, etc. If you can borrow a pressure tester, check the cap for holding the rated 13 pounds, and the system for a pound or 2 more (15 pounds max, there's no need to overly stress things). If you have reason to believe that the previously used "magic goop" has clogged the radiator, either have it flow tested or (as already suggested) replace it. A few other questions to help home in on the problem: 1) What temp does the engine have to hit before bubbles show up? 2) How much does the coolant level rise in the reservoir from when the engine is cold to when its hot? 3) Are both fans running at high speed? 4) When the coolant temp spikes, does running the heater on high bring it down, and if so, how fast? 5) After the engine is hot and it's shut off and cools, does the coolant level in the reservoir go back down? (In other words, is it getting pulled back into the system as it should?)

You could look around generally for bad ground connections, as suggested. However, if that doesn't resolve things... P0463 could be due to either fuel level sensor being bad (the main and sub are in series) or a faulty connection. The ground goes through one of the big multi-pin connectors at the rear of the engine, passenger side. For P0325 the knock sensor itself is probably the most likely cause. Gary, those P1100 & P1133 code definitions don't seem to be correct for Subaru. Codes in the P1xxx range are manufacturer-specific. I show: P1100 Starter Switch Circuit Malfunction P1133 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor heater circuit high input Typically a P1133 indicates a shorted O2 sensor heater, either internal or due to wire insulation melted at the exhaust. If the new Bosch sensor wiring is okay, then its heater might be drawing more current than the OEM spec allows for.

I don't see anything that indicates whether the heads were resurfaced or at least checked for flatness. If there was overheating previously, things might have gotten warped so that new gaskets alone aren't enough. By all means "burp" the system, but if that doesn't resolve the problem, it will definitely be time to check for exhaust gases in the coolant.

You didn't specify which model, so we don't know if you have a 2.2L or 2.5L DOHC. Assuming the timing belt installation is correct, verify that the cam sprockets aren't swapped in position left to right. Only the left (driver's side) cam sprocket has reluctors on the back for the cam position sensor, so wrong placement results in no spark.

Isn't being an independent servicer "fun"? In a business I owned a few years back, it was interesting to see the work of some dealers and "authorized" servicers. What an eye-opener! While most customers were appreciative of being told of past poor work and wanted it corrected, there were certainly some who either didn't believe things were that bad or wanted the problem "patched". I took a pass on those jobs.

It's a "shield joint connector", not a "shielded joint connector", and I'm not saying that just to be a stickler. Simply, it's just the place in the circuit where a wire shield connects to other shields or ground. If the connection you're describing is factory original, it's probably okay. Just because the roof and siding of a house are being pelted by rain doesn't mean you'll get wet inside. Kidding aside, ground wires and shields have to be run very carefully in certain sensitive circuits. They are connected in a manner that minimizes currents that could induce interference from flowing through the part of the circuit that would be detrimentally impacted. That's why sometimes an attempt to "improve" grounding can actually lead to problems such as those commonly referred to as "ground loops". By the way, sometimes engineers goof, and I've seen commercial products that needed to have grounding points changed or even removed in order to obtain proper operation. See http://www.metexcorp.com/emirfi_theory.htm for some info.

Some automotive audio systems are incorporating several Farads (not µF) of capacitance. See http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i204_5--farad.html for example.

It's typical of a failing alternator. Check the alt connections, but you're probably going have to replace it soon.

Both fans should be on with the A/C running, so it seems that your diagnosis is correct. Besides wiring/connections, check that the fan motor isn't seized, and then for power when it should be energized. If it's not getting powered, check the corresponding relay. See http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/heat/CoolingFanInfoS01.pdf

The ECTS is indeed the sensor in question. It has a two-pin electrical connector (the single-pin one is for the gauge). They do fail, but it's also not uncommon for some corrosion to develop on connector pins. Before you replace the ECTS, you might try cleaning those contacts. Also, sometimes there's a poor contact in the multi-pin connectors at the rear passenger side of the engine.

FSM says "17.23 +- 2.1 Ft-lb", but that nonsense is because the spec was converted from metric. Aim for 17 foot-pounds, and if you're going to be off, it's better to be at 15 than at 19 (in other words, don't overtighten it). Be sure to clean the mounting surface before installing.

Sorry about your loss! Inquiring minds want to know details -- I'm not exactly sure how to interpret your thread title. How did you determine a rod bearing has failed? Did the failure occur after an oil change, or did you find metal while draining the oil? Had you used any Sea Foam, MMO, etc., in the oil? How long ago was the last oil change? What brand and grade of oil was used? What brand and part number of oil filter?

I'm going to avoid the detonation/pre-ignition determination, since one can often lead to the other. I'll just discuss the causes of either -- they share in common that the air/fuel mixture is not ignited and burned at the right time or smoothly. Carbon deposits may or may not be the cause of your engine's problem. A layer of carbon in a combustion chamber can raise the compression ratio. It can hold heat from the combustion process into the following cycle, when the cylinder should be (relatively) "cold". A piece might even act like a glowing ember. Just inspecting spark plugs often won't reveal carbon, since the plug tends to run hotter than the cylinder walls and head. Speaking of plugs, if their heat range is wrong (high), that alone can be troublesome. Assuming that carbon isn't the issue, there are plenty of other things to consider. A too-lean mixture can definitely cause a problem. However, just because it doesn't occur when the engine is cold and the system is running open-loop doesn't necessarily mean the O2 sensor is at fault -- it might be, but open-loop richness can mask other conditions. For example, if there's a sufficient vacuum leak after the air metering, the ECU doesn't know about that air and the mixture can be too lean. A cooling system that's not up to par can give you grief. Even if the gauge doesn't indicate above midpoint, it's possible to have localized hot spots. The coolant concentration being significantly wrong will sometimes impact cooling enough to lead to knock. Have the heads ever been milled? (Sometimes in order to get it flat again, a warped head will have too much material removed.) One cause that's often overlooked is a malfunctioning EGR system. If there isn't enough exhaust gas recirculation when needed, that alone might be your engine's problem.

You're welcome. Yes, mounting the cam sprocket with the reluctors on the wrong side of the engine makes it more than "reluctant" to start.

See http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/elec/FtIgnitionDiagOpS00.pdf (There are errors in the info. In the "Ignition Coil Testing" section, the terminal numbers listed are reversed between the primary and secondary; however, the diagram is labeled correctly.)

Carbon deposits don't require oil burning to form, and removal of tetraethyl lead from gas didn't change the situation, either. Gasoline, being a mixture of various hydrocarbons (and additives), by itself is a source of lots of carbon. Do a Google search on "engine carbon removal" if you'd like some info. One of the products often suggested at USMB is Sea Foam, but it's not the only one.

Another possibility is that a cam seized.

The P0136 code is for the rear sensor circuit. It can be caused by a poor connection anywhere between the sensor and the ECU, the sensor being bad, or even if there's an exhaust leak somewhere between the front and rear sensors. I'd suggest checking mainly the sensor's connector and for exhaust leaks. If neither of those seems to be the problem, then the sensor itself is a likely cause. Although we mostly recommend using only OEM for front sensor replacement, an aftermarket unit is usually adequate for the rear sensor.

Okay -- I prefer "teaching to fish" as opposed to "giving a fish". http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/041999_03.pdf (theory/diagnosis) http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/041999_07.pdf (inspection) http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/82/ http://www.autoacrepairs.com/gauge_reading_and_diagnosis.htm http://www.chillers.com/PT%20charts%20for%20refrigerants.htm http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac98.htm http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_recharging.htm Last but not least, lots of articles here: http://www.endwrench.com/archive/sysheat.html

Was that a static or dynamic pressure reading? What was the ambient temperature? Would you like links to some info that might help you better understand a/c?

The EGR solenoids typically measure about 35 ohms. With a 14 volt supply (engine running), that would dissipate over 5 watts. That's why I suggested trying a spare solenoid first, and if that "worked", next seeing what a 1 Kohm 1/2 watt resistor would do (since it would dissipate less than 1/4 watt). If anyone is going to try a 35 ohm (or so) resistor, be sure you use one that's rated to dissipate the power, and locate it away from anything that won't like the heat given off. Nathan, I'm in no way suggesting that what you've predicted won't be the outcome, nor that your supposition of Subaru's design is inaccurate. However, squelching "research" doesn't seem productive to me. As I said previously, I don't know some of the details of the EGR/non-EGR arrangements, and apparently neither do any of the other forum members (or they aren't willing to speak up). Gary's situation is somewhat different than many other swaps, since he is using parts that apparently came from non-EGR AT cars. That some people have successfully used just a solenoid to get around the problem is "hearsay", as I already freely admitted. The thing is, Gary is willing to try something, and any feedback is useful, even if it just confirms that it doesn't do the trick.

You're welcome, and thanks for the vote of confidence (although I'm not sure it's totally merited. ) On a swap where the original had EGR and the replacement doesn't, I can see why just faking the solenoid valve isn't going to do the trick -- the ECU might be satisfied electrically, but when it does a flow test, it's not, and triggers a P0400. However, in situations like yours I've heard of people who just stuck an EGR solenoid valve in circuit (again, one lead to switched 12 volts, other to pin 71 of ECU), and got neither P0400 or P0403 again. (Don't ask me why, I don't know. ) If you have a spare EGR solenoid valve around and feel like experimenting, why not wire one in? If anything good comes of it, humor me and try the resistor I mentioned above if you're okay with that.