OB99W

Although you didn't say so, I assume that what you did was cut the wire and reset the ECU, then waited to see what codes would/wouldn't return. (Correct me if I got that wrong, please.) If so, P0403 would likely return rapidly because the ECU can immediately detect the lack of EGR solenoid continuity. (One end of the solenoid goes to 12 volts, the other to ECU pin 71. So the ECU should see pin 71 get pulled up whenever it isn't trying to energize the solenoid by pulling that pin to ground. If pin 71 doesn't go high, that should cause P0403 to be triggered.) On the other hand, EGR flow problems are detected by running conditions. That means that the I/M monitors have to complete, including a couple of drive cycles, before P0400 will trigger a CEL (although if scanned it might show as pending). On MT cars, which typically don't have EGR, pin 81 is grounded. You can't really do that to resolve the lack-of-EGR problem with an AT, because there are other differences. Although I've never done what I'm about to mention, Gary, you seem to be willing to experiment. I wonder what would happen if pin 71 got pulled up to 12 volts via a resistor. A 1,000 ohm (1 kohm) 1/2 watt resistor connected from a switched (not always hot) 12 volt source to pin 71 might fool the ECU, at least as far as whether there's an EGR solenoid. That could potentially eliminate P0403 at least. DISCLAIMER: Anyone (this means Gary and/or any other) who tries what I mentioned in the paragraph above does so at his/her own peril! (As I said, I've never tried it myself, and although offhand it would appear to not be problematical, there might be unforseen consequences.) You've been warned.

Gary, disconnecting ECU pin 71 shouldn't change anything, once there's no EGR solenoid. I assume there's also no wiring/connector for one in the engine harness at this point -- is that the case? There are two primary EGR codes (and some less-typical ones). P0400 indicates detection of a flow problem. P0403 is triggered by a solenoid circuit fault. Which code are you getting?

When I said "... did you swap the ECU or use the original one?", that wasn't a suggestion to swap the ECU -- I wanted to know if you had already done it while changing the engine. Check wiring connections first. If that doesn't help, please provide the year/model info if you'd like more detailed suggestions.

P0183 = Fuel temperature sensor A circuit high input There's probably a bad connection somewhere between the sensor and the ECU. If you did any work at/near the fuel pump, check back there. If all the work was at the front of the car, the most likely problem is with one of the large multi-pin connectors at the rear passenger side of the engine. There might be a bent pin or a connector not fully seated. I'd suggest pulling those connectors apart, make sure the pins are straight, and then reconnect, being sure that they go together all the way. If that doesn't do it, then more info might help -- year/model of car and replacement engine. Also, did you swap the ECU or use the original one?

Just to make it clear... Although the low side tubing is of larger diameter, the low side valve fitting is the smaller of the two. The hose should only be able to couple with the smaller valve fitting (13mm). See http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_recharging.htm for some further info.

Igniter failure is a common cause of only one of the two coils in the pack operating, and a used igniter might have the same failure. See http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/elec/FtIgnitionDiagOpS00.pdf . (There are errors in that info. In the "Ignition Coil Testing" section, the terminal numbers listed are reversed between the primary and secondary -- the low resistance readings should be for the primaries, the high ones for the secondaries.) Do the tests on the last page of that PDF. In particular, see if switching is occurring at both coil pack primary terminals. If not, then check if the igniter inputs are getting switching from the ECU. If the ECU isn't switching, check the cam/crank sensors for output (and examine the reluctors, if there's reason to suspect physical damage). If you need pinout info, let us know. EDIT: The 1992 FSM at http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ might help -- see page 300 (of 335) of the PDF for a wiring diagram that should be close to what you have.

Welcome to the forum. By "module", are you referring to the igniter? If so, did you get a new one, or is it used? Do you have a voltmeter, and know how to use it? If so, we can probably provide some troubleshooting info. There are a few causes. Although rare, it could even be a failure of the ECU. However, let's not go there until we rule out more-likely culprits.

I'm glad it was that simple. I guess it's just human nature to assume that two connectors which obviously match should always be connected.

Are the radiator fans cycling on and off? If so, the under-dash diagnostic/test mode connectors are probably coupled together -- they shouldn't be, but someone might have assumed they were disconnected by the thief. Check for those connectors being joined, and separate them if they are. If you're not familiar with the connectors, see my post #3 of this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111761

Although you haven't removed the heads, the part entitled "Assembling 1997 And Newer Engines" in the following article might be helpful in getting things properly aligned without damage (which hopefully hasn't happened already). http://www.endwrench.com/current/summer03/InsiderInfoEndFall03.pdf

Let's start with a simple test. With the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the harness from the pressure switch (top of the receiver/drier). Using an ohmmeter, check continuity between the terminals of the pressure switch -- it should be very close to zero ohms. If there's no continuity (open circuit, infinite resistance), the refrigerant charge is likely too low -- it requires at least 31 PSI to close the switch, and considerably more will be there with the system off (static pressure) under normal conditions. If the pressure switch is closed (indicating refrigerant charge level isn't the problem), let us know.

There are two sensors mounted to the coolant pipe, fairly close to each other. The one that corresponds to the code has a 2-pin connector. (The other, with a single connection, is for the temp gauge.) I'm mentioning this because sometimes the wrong one gets changed, and of course the problem remains.

Congrats! Or was that premature? :-\

Most defects that would make the belts "uncrashworthy" should quailify for replacement. Long, on-topic thread: http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=14309&start=0

For CEL code reading and definitions, see: http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ http://codes.rennacs.com/Petrol-Engine/Japanese-Korean/Subaru-Engines.php http://codes.rennacs.com/plugins/SubaruEFI/SUBARU-EFI-01-PRE-L-Series.php http://codes.rennacs.com/plugins/SubaruEFI/SUBARU-EFI-01-MEM-L-Series.php Be sure to use the correct code definitions for your year/model. EDIT: Also see http://www.furi-dorifto.com/tech/Subaru_dox/EWPreOBDAug05.pdf

Certainly possible. When it's sufficiently warm, the refrigerant expands somewhat and the pressure increases enough to close the switch.

Do a search on the term "torque bind". If you have questions afterward, let us know.

http://www.net-comber.com/tirecalc.html

By the way, many sensors/switches connect to the ECU via the multi-pin connectors at the rear passenger side of the engine. I've seen several cases of corrosion in those connectors, probably due to road salt from winter driving getting into them. It might be worth pulling those connectors apart and checking. I know for sure that the neutral position switch and VSS grounds go through the 16-pin one (B22/E3), for example.

An engine oil additive that increases the viscosity might slightly increase compression readings, due to better ring sealing -- but probably not the degree that you reported. Timing belts wear, and 85,000 miles is getting near the end of life for one. Also, the tensioner and idler pulleys, especially if they weren't replaced the last time the belt was, can develop some play. It's then possible for the belt to jump under certain conditions. Using a scan tool, be on the lookout for anything that would indicate a wrong/erratic reading from the VSS or the transmission neutral switch. Either one can "misinform" the ECU about running conditions, causing it to improperly adjust the A/F ratio.

One way to make exhaust leaks easier to find is to obstruct the tailpipe temporarily while checking underneath -- I use a wadded-up old cotton t-shirt, held against the end of the tailpipe (not stuffed into the pipe). I find it's best done with two people, one to hold the "T" in place while the other looks/listens for any leak. Exhaust backpressure will tend to push the "T" away, and even if there's a leak exhaust will get past it, so the person at the tailpipe shouldn't stay there for very long. If there aren't any exhaust leaks, the smell might be from leaking oil, etc., getting on exhaust parts and burning there.

Measuring with respect to a good ground, with the blower control speed set to the highest position, you should have battery voltage on the black/red motor wire (hot lead), and very close to zero volts on the black/yellow motor wire (ground lead). If those voltages are correct, then either the blower motor is stuck or defective. If the voltage on the black/red is too low, trace it back to the relay, and check the voltage at the red/white wire -- if it's okay there, then the relay isn't closing or making good contact. If the voltage on the motor's black/yellow wire is much above zero volts, then the fan switch ground isn't good (black wire at the switch) or the switch itself isn't making good contact. If you can't make sense of meter readings you get, let us know what they are and under what conditions you got them.

If the blower doesn't even work on the highest speed setting, then that eliminates the blower resistor as a possible problem area. I could explain how to troubleshoot this with a voltmeter, but it sounds like you're not feeling up to that. There might be a bad connection at the relay, or the relay contacts could be burned. Try rapping on the dash where you hear the "click" coming from and see if the blower comes back on (even for a moment).

When the problem shows up, does the blower run if you set it to the highest speed?

Exactly where are you measuring the pressure? A defective FPR doesn't always present as diaphragm leakage into the vacuum side. If you suspect a tank venting issue, you could try cranking with the gas cap removed and see if the fuel pressure increases. When you replaced the fuel pump and filter, did you inspect the old filter to see if there was any debris? Have you verified that full voltage is getting to the pump and that the ground connection there is solid?