OB99W

If, with the engine running, the voltage is higher at the alternator output terminal (heavy gauge white wires) than at the battery, check for a blown fusible link (main fuse box, under the hood).

A couple of other links: http://autorepair.about.com/library/weekly/aa112401b.htm http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm Click on Scenarios -- #14 is for exhaust restriction test.

An exhaust system restriction is one of the things that can cause the symptom you've described. It's possible to use a vacuum gauge to check for that.

I've just re-read this entire thread, because sometimes it helps to have all the info "refreshed" in your mind. I'm beginning to suspect a problem with the VSS (Vechicle Speed Sensor). A significant enough failure would typically trigger a code, but they can begin to have problems before the ECU reports it. With incorrect VSS data, the ECU won't properly control fuel delivery, etc. A scan tool capable of viewing live data might be able to catch that if the problem is consistent enough. Does the speedometer seem accurate, especially at low speeds? Possibly less importantly, the higher-than-expected compression readings can have a few different causes. It could simply be due to an inaccurate gauge. Some fluid in the cylinders (gas/oil, which isn't compressible) will raise the reading by effectively reducing the combustion chamber volume a bit. Some carbon buildup could do the same. Valve timing (relative to piston position) has an effect, so if the timing belt is off by a tooth at the crank, that can result in an increase. See: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79759 The P0133 O2 sensor code is usually a reliable indicator of a failing sensor. The only other thing that could likely trigger that code is an exhaust system leak before (upstream of) the sensor. If there isn't such a leak, the sensor is probably bad. While it may not be related to the current problem, if the front (upstream) sensor hasn't been replaced within some reasonable number of miles, it probably should. EDIT: Have you ever seen any codes besides the P0133 and P030x ones? (For example, P1507.)

For the I/M monitors to be ready, a certain set of conditions have to be met, referred to as "drive cycles". Part of that is a need to run for a period of time at highway speeds with very minimal or no change in TPS angle ("constant gas pedal position", as you put it). As you surmised, your trips to work likely don't fill drive cycle requirements.

I understand your concern, but sometimes it's better to have a pro who can actually see and touch things do the work, rather than having us try to direct you "via remote control". You might want to check at least one more thing. Since power on the yellow/blue wires has been an issue, have you verified that it's getting to everything that it should? Specifically, the cam sensor should be powered when the key is "ON" -- check at its connector (E15) pin #1. That wire is (of course ) yellow/blue.

I just looked at your other thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111180 The responses there pretty much raised the same concern that I did, above. I hope you're not serious, but if you are, my suggestion is to get a manual for the car, and both you and your friend read up on the basics.

Ummm, which drain plug got pulled? (Because this sounds like it wasn't the engine oil that was drained.)

May I suggest that before any more cutting/splicing/jumping is done, that you consider another possibility? It's not uncommon for the B20-to-E1, B21-to-E2, and/or B22-to-E3 connectors to develop some corrosion over time, especially where road salt is used in the winter. This can lead to all sorts of problems, since power, ground, sensors, solenoids, etc. all depend on those connections. If you haven't done so already, I'd suggest pulling apart each of those pairs and spraying out the pins with alcohol -- some isopropanol from the drug store works better than electrical contact cleaner, in my experience. If you can see any obvious corrosion, gently scrape any pin showing it. Be sure to thoroughly dry the connectors (a portable hair dryer works well) before reconnecting.

You can be "snippy" all you want, but I reserve the right to similarly reply if I feel like it. Let me address your last thoughts first -- this forum doesn't have "customers", it has "members". Steve seemed interested in using his scan tool, and learning about it's capabilities, which is why I went down that path. If he (or anyone else) feels that suggestions made here by me (or anyone else) are time-wasting, those suggestions can simply be ignored. As to "diagnostic money", that seems completely irrelevant -- I certainly didn't suggest that Steve (or anyone else) have someone who's going to charge for it do what we've been discussing. Besides, based on his previous posts, Steve seems to mostly do his own work. As to the rear O2 sensor relationship to P0420, your argument is inconsistent. If using anti-foulers to pull the rear sensor back out of the exhaust stream eliminates the code, then the sensor wasn't defective to the point of being able to cause the code (since it's reacting to the change). Yes, rear sensors can fail, but your reasoning doesn't support your point. You're also being overly dismissive of the value of FF data in this case. Just because the catalyst efficiency monitor runs doesn't mean that the fuel trims are near ideal. They can be compensating significantly (which could be a clue) and the monitor will still run. The cause of Steve's P0420 seems to be a marginal situation, based on how many miles he's had to drive to get the code to retrigger after the reset. So, it's certainly possible that a lazy front sensor is the culprit, and changing it (I'd suggest OEM only) would be a quick way to find out if that's the case. Just to throw one in from left field -- I've occasionally seen P0420 codes triggered by PCV problems. That can upset the A/F (sometimes momentarily, if the valve is sticking), or cause more oil to burn and contaminate both the O2 sensors and the cat.

Welcome to the forum. I hope you won't mind a small addition to your first post here. The spark plugs and wires of the paired cylinders are effectively in series. To work correctly, when ignition is triggered the spark must jump both the the plug in the cylinder that's supposed to fire and the other one in the pair. The paired cylinder that's not on a power stroke is just ending its exhaust stroke, and indeed presents little resistance to the spark jumping its plug -- that spark is "wasted", but uses only a few kv (typically less than 5 kv, and can be as low as about 2 kv) in the process.

Besides using it to find obvious defects, freeze frame data can help in ruling out certain problems. Steve reported: Fuel Sys 1 ------------- CL Calc Load (%) --------- 9.0 ECT (degrees F) ------- 183 STFT B1 (%) ---------- 0.7 LTFT B1 (%) ---------- -0.7 MAP (inHg) ------------ 10.9 Eng RPM -------------- 1812 Vehicle Speed (MPH) -- 45 From that we can determine: 1) The engine was warm (coolant 183 F) and the system was running closed loop (CL). 2) The engine wasn't being pushed very hard at the time (9% load - 1812 RPM - 45 MPH). 3) Fuel trims weren't compensating for something way out of whack (in fact, besides STFT and LTFT each being less than 1%, they averaged to 0% at the time the code was set). So, the FF data did tell us something -- it told us that things it reported were within quite reasonable ranges, and we can look elsewhere. The front sensor data is used as a basis for the ECU to constantly correct the A/F ratio, always aiming for the ideal 14.7:1 ratio. A lazy front sensor can allow the engine to run further away from that ratio, for longer times. That makes it difficult for the catalyst to work efficiently (the amount of oxygen it has to work with, among other things, is critical). The rear sensor output, when things are working correctly, should be swinging much more slowly and to a lesser degree than the front. A lazy rear sensor shouldn't generate a P0420, and in fact is likely to not trigger that code even if the cat isn't doing its job well. Spacing the rear sensor further out of the exhaust stream will usually mislead the ECU into "thinking" things are okay with the cat. This is not dependent on that sensor being lazy. Replacing the front sensor might resolve the problem, as might fixing an existing exhaust system leak, etc. Its unlikely that replacing the rear sensor would impact P0420. An OBD-II scanner is just a tool, and how valuable it is depends on whose hands it's in. If the scanner info isn't conclusive, when I need to evaluate signals that vary rapidly with time (O2 sensors, cam/crank position sensors, ABS wheel sensors, etc.), that's when I use a 'scope for better results. My exhaust gas analyzer doesn't get much use since catalytic converters became common (did I just give a clue to my approximate age? ), but sometimes it comes out when P0420 shows up. It sometimes makes definitive testing for a bad cat a lot easier.

You're welcome, and congrats! I'm glad it wasn't difficult to get at.

Yes, that can work, as you said, "as long as you're careful". I'm a bit concerned about doing it at the ECU, since accidentally applying power (or whatever) to the wrong pins can lead to the "magic smoke" escaping.

There doesn't appear to be anything revealing in the freeze frame data -- the parameters are all within "normal" bounds. Of course, since the ECU was recently reset, the LTFT isn't all that "long term". You can get a lot more data (which may or may not be helpful) by using the 3130 in the live data capture mode -- see beginning page 37 of the manual. Using "Record by DTC trigger" with the "Middle" trigger point option might provide more useful info.

In case anyone isn't familiar with "plumber's tape" (or thinks it's used to stop leaks ), see: http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/2550/255038_300.jpg

You should be seeing ~12 volts (assuming the battery is sufficiently charged) on all the interconnected yellow/blue wires with the key "ON". Since the voltage is there at the injectors, the main relay is closing as it should. Not seeing it at ECU B137 #2 and #3 certainly indicates something's amiss. If the meter probes are too thick to backprobe the connector, a piece of thin bare wire, a straightened paper clip, or even a pin can be inserted in the back of the connector to make contact. (I'm reluctant to pierce insulation unless absolutely necessary.) In the spirit of "measure twice", please recheck B137 #2 and #3, and use a known-good ground reference (just in case there's a grounding problem). If you still determine that those two ECU pins aren't getting power, then I'd agree that there's a break between them and B47 #4 (main relay). If you can get to the yellow/blue wires on any of the solenoids powered that way (EGR, Idle Speed Control, etc.), see if they're getting ~12 volts with the key "ON" as well.

Look at the emissions label pasted to the underside of the hood for a general idea of the location. The EVAP purge solenoid is usually mounted at the intake manifold, under the runner for cylinder #3 (passenger side, rear). Since it's a little hidden, it wouldn't surprise me if the electrical connection was accidentally left off.

I forgot to mention -- also check the B22/E3 pin #10 connection (should be where the yellow/blue wire power is fed).

Thanks for posting all the readings, etc., and for making it obvious that you have "experience with diagnosing electrical problems". Based on that, I think we can talk you through this. The yellow/blue wires are power supply for the injectors and solenoids that you mentioned. There should be battery voltage (~12 volts) on them when the key is "ON". If not (which is what seems to be the case, but please verify that and let us know), then either power isn't getting to the main relay contacts, or the relay coil isn't being energized. (It's also possible that the main relay has failed, but that's less likely.) I know that you checked fuses already, but please verify again that SBF-5 is good (feeds power to main relay contacts). Then, with key "ON", check voltage at ECU connector B134 pin #2 (power to main relay coil, according to the 2001 H6 diagram I have on hand). Get back to us with your findings.

Look behind the dash, extreme left (driver's) side, above the fuse box. Pulling the lower dash panel may help. The hot lead (coming from the fuse) should be a red/yellow (red wire with a yellow stripe). The other side of the relay coil (going to the horn switch) should be red/green. The relay output contact (going to the horns) should be red/blue.

See my posts in http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104712 . (Actually, read the entire thread. ) Compression testing of all cylinders would be very useful info, especially since the work that's been done hasn't lead to a solution yet.

Any vibration noticed? Any difference going straight versus left or right turn? Drive shaft checked for U-joint play? The child safety latch should only prevent opening from the inside. If the door can't be opened from the outside, make sure the door is unlocked (either electrically via switch, or manually at the door).

Unfortunately, what you are able to access is older info, limited to 2004. I had to search it to find the links I provided for you. The same info was at the following links, but see if you're able to access it: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/IdentifyInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ABS.pdf

See: http://www.endwrench.com/current/summer02/insiderinfo.pdf http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/brakes/FtSubaruABSS99.pdf Important Note: The End Wrench website that we've been able to access is currently not available. In its place is the old site info (circa 2004), with a much more limited number of articles available. When I tried to look at ABS info based on URLs in my files, I got a response similar to the following: "Forbidden You don't have permission to access /images/pdfs/IdentifyInfo.pdf on this server." Hopefully, this is a temporary situation -- it would be great if the site is "limited" because it's being improved. However, it may be that Subaru has decided to no longer support independent servicers in this manner. I'd suggest that any of you interested in the articles still available at the www.endwrench.com site download them while you can. I haven't yet tried to use the Internet Archive (www.archive.org) "Wayback Machine" to see if the material can be retrieved that way. EDIT: The articles I tried to access using archive.org resulted in "Not in Archive".