OB99W

Before you do that, compare the gap between the sensor tip and tone wheel on the side with the problem to the gap on the working side.

You're welcome.

Before you tear things apart, you might want to post the codes.

11 = Start code (Always generated - if no other codes follow, okay) 27 = Abnormal ABS sensor (Open circuit or input voltage too high) Rear left 29 = Abnormal ABS sensor (Abnormal signal) Any one of four wheel sensors For codes that return after clearing, first make sure that connections are solid. For 27 & 29, look over the rear left sensor and wiring for damage. Disconnect it and the rear right one, and compare sensor resistance readings. A bad sensor will often read higher resistance, sometimes completely open.

With the engine not running, insert a ground wire into the correct pin position (I'll get to that in a moment). Turn the ignition switch to "ON" -- dont start the engine, and don't step on the brake pedal. Codes are flashed in "longs" and "shorts". The first code should be "11" (one long, then one short), then any trouble codes (for example, two longs, then three shorts would be "23"). As to which pin to use: Usually for ABS it's #6. However, there's one place in the '95 factory service manual that mentions pin #4 -- but that pin is shown on the wiring diagram to be for TCS (not ABS) diagnostics. I suppose you could try it if #6 doesn't work. The pin numbering of the connector is as follows: 1----2 3 4 5 6 Assuming you retrieve something, let us know what codes you get.

Are you sure the noise isn't from inside the trans? A failing front pump can make a sound such as you're describing. Besides the noise, are there any other issues with the trans (delayed engagement, slippage, etc.)?

Besides alignment, excessive rotational friction can cause pulling to one side. A bad bearing might be the cause, but so can a sticking brake caliper, even when the brakes aren't being applied.

I also have an Equus 3130. It might be useful to post Freeze Frame Data for the P0420, since it will tell us what the ECU "saw" when it set the code. If you're not familiar with FFD, look at pages 26-27 of the owner's manual. To better understand wide range (wide band) A/F sensors, see: http://www.aa1car.com/library/wraf.htm Look over the 3130 manual starting on page 50 for the PID (Parameter Information Data) list. You'll see that "EQ Ratio 11" is for the pre-cat sensor, for example. Oxygen sensor (not wide band type) info: http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm P0420-related info (not all may apply to your car): http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102006_09.pdf http://www.aa1car.com/library/p0420_dtc.htm http://www.catalyticconverter.org/news/news_page.cfm?Key=catalytic_converter-&News=120 http://www.import-car.com/Article/39019/Diagnostic.aspx

That's good info, and should be checked if the pressure switch is found to be closed.

It's easy to test if the pressure switch is open or closed, and can be done with the ignition switch turned off. The switch is located at the top of the receiver/drier. According to the manual, the wires at the connector should be green/orange and brown/yellow. Remove the connection, and check continuity of the switch (should be very close to zero ohms) -- if there's no continuity, it's likely the pressure is too low due to refrigerant loss. (A defective switch could also lack continuity, but that's not nearly as likely as low refrigerant. Also, the switch is a dual-action type, and will open if the pressure is too high -- really unlikely, especially on a system that's not running.)

One of the most common reasons for lack of compressor clutch engagement is that the pressure switch isn't closed due to the refrigerant charge being insufficient. If there's a leak, a year is plenty of time for the charge to have been lost.

P0325 is a knock sensor circuit malfunction. It's almost always due to failure of the knock sensor or its wiring connections. EDIT: Both the TPS and knock sensor wiring to the ECU go through connector pair E2/B21 (large 12-pin) at the rear passenger side of the engine. If there's some corrosion or the connectors aren't properly mated, it might cause both codes.

The P1502 code typically indicates the ECU senses that the engine is running too warm, and when it commands the fans to run that doesn't correct what it's sensing. Assuming there are no other codes, first check the simple stuff. With the engine cold, make sure the radiator is filled (don't just check the level in the reservoir tank). Verify that air flow through the radiator (or A/C condenser) isn't partially blocked with dead insects, etc. As already asked, have you seen both fans come on with the engine hot (but the A/C not on)? One possibility is that the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECTS) is beginning to fail.

The definition for P0740 in the '97 factory SM is "Torque converter clutch system malfunction", which can have several causes, only one of which is a problem with duty solenoid B or related wiring. Problems in the following circuits can also trip that code -- throttle position sensor, vehicle speed sensor 1 or 2, engine speed input, inhibitor switch, brake light switch. Assuming no external wiring problems, sometimes there is internal damage if the trans was jacked at the pan -- it takes very little deflection to cause trouble. Check the pan for even a slight deformation. Otherwise, check the other circuits.

The sender/light circuit is very basic. One side of the light connects to +12v, the other goes to the sender. When there is no pressure, the sender completes the connection to ground, causing the light to come on. (That's exactly what happens when you turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position before cranking, allowing the light to be checked.) Oil pressure above 2 PSI opens the sender contact, breaking the ground connection and extinguishing the light. If the sender wire is truly disconnected, it can't be grounded via the sender contacts, and that should cause the light to remain off. However, if the wire is "misconnected" and the connector touches something that's grounded (or gets pinched between some grounded parts), that would cause the light to be lit any time the ignition switch is on. Perhaps that's what you experienced.

Not driving until you determine what's happening is a prudent move. The low-pressure switch changes state at only 2 PSI (normal oil pressure is >14 PSI at idle and >43 PSI at 5,000 RPM), so something is either significantly wrong or there is a wiring/sender problem. Oil pressure below 2 PSI could cause engine damage fairly rapidly, but it also would typically announce itself with some engine noise, as previously mentioned. If the light remains on when the wire at the sender is disconnected, it would indicate a short of that wire to ground. If the warning light goes off when the sender is disconnected, then either the sender is bad or the pressure is actually very low. An oil pressure gauge can be attached in order to verify actual pressure.

Having no cat would result in the downstream sensor reading about the same as the upstream one, which seems to be the case. It doesn't explain the low reading. A misfire severe enough to set P03xx codes would cause there to be more unburned oxygen in the exhaust, which could cause the sensor to read low. However, the OP didn't indicate that the misfire codes recurred after he did some work. If there is now no misfire, or it's occurring but not sufficiently to set codes, then it isn't likely to drive the O2 sensor extremely low (lean) -- but something obviously is causing the low reading. The OP indicated that the problem disappears for a while after the ECU is reset, then returns. It's hard to believe that ignition problems are being fixed, even temporarily, by having the ECU go to default settings. A more likely possibility is that the fuel trims are initially more correct after a reset, and then are modified to values that the engine doesn't like as much as time/miles go by. I've also seen an overly sensitive knock sensor unnecessarily retarding timing, causing symptoms similar to the "flutter" the OP described. It would be interesting to see some scan data beyond trouble codes. STFT and LTFT numbers and ignition timing would be a good start.

If those readings are accurate, you might want to investigate that area a bit -- that could indicate an extremely lean mixture, or bad sensors. See http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm

ECTS failure is common enough, but wiring/contact problems are also a possibility. There are a few places that contacts could be corroded, although there are two primary ones. First look at the ECTS connector itself. If that's okay, check the large multi-pin connectors that couple the engine harness to the bulkhead harness at the rear passenger side of the engine. If those seem good, the odds are better that the ECTS itself is bad rather than there being a wiring problem. If you decide to change the ECTS, disconnect the battery negative cable before pulling the sensor's connector. Don't overly tighten the new sensor, or you could cause damage -- the factory manual says it's supposed to be torqued to 16 N-m (which converts to 12 ft lbs ... although the manual says 1.2 ft-lbs, which might be a bit loose ). Don't be concerned about the fuel trim numbers, etc., for now. If the ECU is getting bad coolant temp info, that will be reflected in the fuel delivery.

That approach could be useful, but it's not exactly applicable to distributorless ignition and fuel injection.

Yes, but it's not as if that eliminated the need for service. Ask anyone who has had to deal with the chain tensioners and/or guides.

Actually, P0400 isn't all that specific, and an inaccurate gas gauge reading resulting from a sensor circuit fault (P0463) isn't going to lead to an EGR problem. Replacing the EGR valve without further diagnosis wouldn't be the most prudent step. For more insight, see http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf . EDIT: There have been several threads concerning P0400, so doing a search in this forum for that code might help. Also see http://www.vcertt.org/news/11-02.pdf .

Are you referring to Torx plus (Torx+) cam cap screws? Are you trying to use a standard Torx bit? EDIT: I think you need a Torx-plus 40 (but it's late for me to be awake, so someone please correct it if I got that wrong).

A more common scenario is for a cam bearing to seize, which then causes the timing belt to slip.

First take a look at http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Foresterinfo.pdf If that's not the cause, then a common problem is rust through of the gas tank fuel filler pipe. It can be a rather small hole. If not that, see: http://www.endwrench.com/current/02SpringInsiderInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/MoreP0440TipsInfoW00.pdf