OB99W

The two-wire sensor is the one that tells the ECU what temp the coolant is at. However, there's no guarantee that the part is definitely what's wrong. If you can get access to an OBD-II scan tool (not just a code reader), find out what the ECU "thinks" the temp is and see if it makes sense. If not, the ECTS could be bad, or the connection to it might be corroded. If what the ECU sees seems correct, then the ECTS is probably okay.

If you saw some of the brake line repairs done with cheap bulk tubing that I've seen, you'd understand why those terms are appropriate on occasion. Your arrogance is showing.

I'm sure that those who have worked with it enough can get an adequate bend of soft tubing by hand much of the time. However, not knowing how much experience DaveSluder (or someone else reading the thread) might have, I thought it wouldn't hurt to provide some info on available tools. If you can do a proper/safe job without a particular tool, I don't have an issue with that. However, I've seen replacement brake tubing bent with a much larger radius than the original, probably to avoid kinking. Depending on location, that can cause it to be more exposed (and vulnerable), because it isn't tight to the frame/underbody like the factory had it.

Its true, the crappy line that some sleazy people use does bend quite easily, especially when some of the tighter bends the factory tubing originally had aren't duplicated.

What would you do if the alternator had a bad regulator, and was known to intermittently put out significantly too high voltage?

To minimize the chance of kinking the tubing, use a bending tool if you can. Here's a link to one type, and the page also shows some flaring tools. http://www.amazon.com/CTA-Brake-Line-Tube-Bender/dp/B000GKEXS4

Besides being an energy storage device, the battery acts as a kind of electrical "shock absorber". You shouldn't disconnect it while the engine is running, because the alternator (especially one that needs "loving attention") might put out errant voltage spikes that could harm the electronics in the car (ECU, etc.), more so than the alternator itself.

You're welcome. An easy method, if you're at a post of the person you went to send the message to, is just click on their username (in yellow at the top left of the post). Once you do, the rest is obvious. EDIT: In fact, if you need to find one of your own previous messages, click on your own name, etc.

One way is to click on "User CP" near the top left of the page, then when that opens click on "Send New Message" (on the left, under "Private Messages"). Be sure to enter the "Recipient Username" spelled correctly.

Perhaps hankosolder2 will provide details of loving care of alternators via a private message. :lol:

A leakdown test can reveal if the valves are sealing well when closed, at the temperature the engine happens to be at when the test is done. However, there could still be excessive or insufficient clearance during actual running conditions, especially when taking into account metal expanding/contracting with temperature change. Subaru lash is typically speced with a cold engine so that it remains within tolerance when hot. I believe that there's a particular pin on the ECU that determines (by it being grounded or not) whether it "thinks" it's in a car with auto or manual. How do the part numbers on the two ECUs compare?

Have you tried starting in both Park and Neutral? See if anything here helps: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51028

One more thing -- in looking over your list of things done, I don't see any indication that valve lash (clearance) was checked or adjusted. It can be a less-than-obvious cause of misfire if out of spec enough.

To quote myself from an old thread: There are certainly a few possible causes, but there's a simple one to investigate. Verify that the injector connectors for #2 and #4 are in the right place (not reversed). The engine will start and run with them swapped, just not very well. There should be a piece of identifying tape around the harness right at each injector connector; it's white on the front cylinders (#1 and #2), and black at the rears (#3 and #4). If the tape is missing, you can check the wire colors.

By the way, since the ground connection isn't made through the harness, it's important that the sensor mounting point be clean.

I assume that you meant to say "Kohms", because otherwise the resistance you're measuring is way too low.

If the engine in question is actually a '96 2.2L (which should be non-interference), it will be very interesting to hear what you find when you tear it down for the rebuild. Please do let us know. By the way, what's the production date of the car? EDIT: Would you mind posting the car's VIN (or at least the first 11 characters)?

There isn't a lot to the technique, so if following the procedure in the link below doesn't work, either the HLA needs further cleaning or the surfaces no longer are mating well. If the latter, it's best to just replace it. See: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Valve07MayEW.pdf

The "lines" or "notches" are what's used when replacing the timing belt, and should be straight up (12:00 position) at both the cam and crank sprockets. This is not a TDC position. Do not use the arrows for t-belt installation -- they will be at different rotational positions for the cams and crank when the correct marks are straight up. (In case anyone doesn't know, the arrows are to set rotational positions for valve clearance adjustment on engines that don't have hydraulic lash adjusters. Since, of course, the pistons don't all reach TDC simultaneously, the engine has to be turned to 4 different positions, 90 degrees apart, so that the clearance can be checked/adjusted for all the valves. The arrows are used to determine those positions, not for timing belt installation.) Enough said?

Thanks, but I certainly don't claim to be clairvoyant -- I did say "Of course, things other than ignition can cause misfire." ... ... and a leaky valve is one of them. Compression/leak-down/vacuum tests could all be revealing. I only started with ignition because the new plug apparently made a significant difference, even if only for a while. The reason I asked how the old plug looked relative to the others was that "reading" plugs can often give insight into what's going on in the cylinder, based on deposits (and their color), oil/gas fouling, wear of electrodes, condition of ceramic insulator, etc.

I can't offer much useful on your other questions, but perhaps I can provide some insight into the usage of flash memory in your car. You may already know some of this... Computer memory is of two basic types -- volatile (data is lost when the power is removed) and non-volatile (retains data even when not powered). "Flash" memory is of the non-volatile type, and it's where the firmware (operating instructions) for the ECU (computer) is stored. Volatile memory is where error conditions and data for adaptive strategy (fuel trim, for example) is kept. Re-flashing wipes the ECU's non-volatile memory clean of the previous programming, and re-installs it. It could be the same program, but more typically it's an update based on improvements determined over time. When the ECU is just "reset", that's when the error data and adaptive info is erased from the volatile memory and the ECU defaults to certain basic settings. It can be done via a data link (OBD-II port, for example), or just by disconnecting the car's battery for a sufficient length of time.

Heavy acceleration causes higher combustion chamber pressure, among other things. That makes it more difficult for the spark to jump the plug's gap. A new plug will fire more readily, so even if there are other things wrong the problem could go away for a while. How did the #4 plug look compared to #1, 2, 3 when you replaced it? Normally I would suggest changing ignition wires if they hadn't been done recently, using only OEM Subaru for the replacements. However, assuming your WRX has coil-on-plug, it might be that the #4 coil is a bit weak. Of course, things other than ignition can cause misfire.

Congrats!

That shouldn't be necessary, although a couple of PCV hoses might have to come off, etc.(Not that it isn't a lot easier to get to without the manifold in the way!) See the following links for some previous discussion and pictures: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75009 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52053

Perhaps I misinterpreted "But we can see that in the numbers." :-\ Anyway, I don't want to sidetrack this thread, so here are links to help with proper belt installation on the 2.2L: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, goes on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf