OB99W

I didn't suggest that a compression test not be done, just that the results could be misinterpreted, especially if someone is jumping to conclusions. The proper cam timing marks for belt installation and the arrows are offset from each other by 45 degrees. If the crank was positioned properly but the cams were at the arrows, that corresponds to a 90 degree error at the crank. With all due respect, if the wrong marks were used, saying the measured compression "will just be low" is understating the possibilities a bit.

Yes, keeping in mind that if the engine is mistimed due to incorrect belt installation, the compression could obviously be low due to that alone.

How much diagnosis was done between "Update: New timing belt and it still won't start." and "Now I'm looking at a replacement motor in the $400-$700 range[...]"?

It's (1) in the diagram. Unfortunately, it's not that easy to get to with hoses and wiring harness in the way.

There is a second sensor, with two wire contacts. It's slightly further back and harder to see or get to.

I'm also thinking along the same lines. The engine coolant temperature sensor is what the ECU uses to determine how hot the engine is. (It's not the same sensor as the one that operates the gauge.) If the ECTS gets damaged or misconnected, it can cause the ECU to "think" the engine is hotter than it is, causing the starting mixture to be too lean and both fans to run. The ECTS is on the coolant pipe, kind of buried in the area under the intake manifold cylinder #3 runner. It would be easy to miss the electrical connection not being good, or a damaged wire.

Naturally, an open (high/infinite resistance) reading is bad. However, comparison only goes so far -- while most of the solenoids should measure around 12-13 ohms, the line pressure and 2-4 brake solenoids should be around 3 ohms. If either of those measured 12 ohms, they'd be bad.

No continuity through the solenoid coil would certainly indicate a problem.

Exactly -- '97 was the first year that the 2.2L was of interference design. However, even if you want to keep costs down, it might still make sense to replace more than the belt. The idlers, tensioner, water pump should be evaluated/considered as well. Sometimes a fuel system cleaner (Techron, for example) added to the gas will help with contacts on the level sensor(s) (AWD models have two, due to the tank design).

Yes, those symptoms are alternator-related. If not due to a poor connection, it's probably failing. This would correlate with the previous lack of decent cranking on some cold mornings, since the battery probably wasn't getting a full charge.

The dropping resistor isn't delicate, but since it's in the engine bay there's a chance of damage to it or its wiring during an engine swap. They also sometimes accidentally get disconnected while things are being prepared for pulling the engine. When jacked, the trans pan can deflect enough to hit, then spring back somewhat so that it looks like there wasn't enough movement to cause a problem.

If you've got an ohmmeter available, disconnect B11 from T4, and check the resistance from T4/pin#5 to ground. It should be around 3 ohms (+/- about an ohm). If much higher, there's an open in the solenoid circuit, if lower, a short to ground.

The codes you got indicate that the line pressure duty solenoid circuit either has an open circuit or a short. It might be external, although it doesn't take much denting of the pan to cause problems. As a point of reference, those solenoids usually measure just a few ohms (about three). Recheck the trans connectors, making sure that there are no bent pins and that they fully engage. Verify that no wires have gotten pinched. One other thing to check is the dropping resistor that's usually mounted to the right (passenger) strut tower -- make sure it didn't get damaged or disconnected.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108153

Count the number of belt teeth between marks to verify that you have things right.

Not necessarily. It's possible that the MAF is failing, or there's a bad connection to it. For a starting point, try wiggling the MAF's electrical connection and see if there's a change in operation.

Congrats! That's why earlier in this thread I referred you to one of my previous posts, specifically #14 in it.

The sound you're describing is likely due to "piston slap". Do a search here at USMB and on Google to better understand what that is.

You don't need a code-reading tool to get the TCU codes. The following threads have info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=809109 See post #10 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96782&page=2 See posts #14 and 16

There are a few possibilities. Besides determining that there's no spark, what electrical tests have you done? Do you have a voltmeter available? If so, check at the coil and igniter, to begin. See http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DirectIgnition.pdf Note that there are errors in the "DirectIgnition.pdf" info. In the "Ignition Coil Testing" section, the terminal numbers listed are reversed between the primary and secondary; however, the diagram is labeled correctly.

There seems to be a resonance in that RPM range, and if the heat shields on the exhaust are loose (and I'd be really surprised if yours aren't ), you'll hear them rattling.

Certain hydrocarbons are pretty efficient as refrigerants. (Google ''R-290a''.) The debate is about how safe they are for the application. A ''replacement'' for R-12 (a CFC) is HC-12, which is about 78% propane and 22% butane with possible variations in the ratio and inclusion of other gases such as isobutane, etc. By the way, it wouldn't surprise me if your fuel contains some butane, rather than it being pure propane. I'm glad that the manufacturer agrees with me.

There are numerous ways that oil can be consumed in an internal combustion engine. However, if we assume that the only difference between the two engines is the fuel they're being run on, then one possible explanation has to do with fuel dilution of the oil. Some gasoline (especially under cold-start conditions) gets past the rings and winds up mixed with the oil in the crankcase. That reduces the oil viscosity, lessening its sealing capabilities and making it more likely that oil will then be burned. Consumption due to that cause tends to get progressively worse. On the other hand, should propane get past the rings to the crankcase, it won't dilute the oil to any significant extent. Its fumes will be removed by the PCV system, and the oil's viscosity won't be materially affected.

Watt? If the word ''Toyota'' doesn't scare you, there are a lot of excellent articles on automotive basics, including electrical topics, at http://www.autoshop101.com/ . Click on ''Technical Articles'' in the left column, and then on the article of interest on the page that links to.

Getting OBD-II I/M monitors ready is dependent on a proper drive cycle. Most states, based on EPA guidelines, allow for two monitors to be incomplete and still pass inspection. See the following links for info from Subaru and NY State. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/OBDInfo.pdf http://www.nysassrs.com/htms/ReadinessFailureFactSheet.htm http://www.nysdmv.com/broch/c114.pdf