OB99W

That's come up here previously, so you could do a search. Here's one take on the subject: http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/2001/March/05.html

Yes, some of the 4-cylinder engines are speced for 4.2 quarts oil capacity, and some for 4.8 quarts. I seem to remember some WRX and STi engines having the higher capacity. Perhaps someone else will have the full details. EDIT: Turbos can certainly benefit from more oil capacity, so that might be part of the reason. The new small oil filters also lower the overall capacity a bit.

Intake vacuum is reduced by about one inch of mercury per 1,000 feet of elevation. 12" Hg is definitely too low.

I believe that the OEM part number for the filter kit is 31099AA091. Typically it sells for under $10, although shipping charges might also be about that amount.

GM no longer licenses production of Dexron III, so unless you come across old stock you're just going to find ''equivalents'' to it. D = Dexron, M = Mercon (the similar Ford/Mercury product), so you'll find (for example) MD-3 commonly being sold as the replacement for Dexron III.

It looks like Gary and I are thinking similarly, and posted at about the same time (Gary got there first).

It seems likely that the crank pulley bolt got loose, and was ignored for a long time. If so, unfortunately, that can tear up the pulley, key, keyway, and even the crank ''snout'' itself. Either that, or the pulley parts have separated.

Not necessarily. ''Short'' and ''long'' are relative terms. It doesn't take much time for the ECU to sense a trend in the STFT and transfer it to the LTFT. That allows the STFT to not run out of range, and if compensation is nearly sufficient due to LTFT, then STFT won't be much off of 0.0%.

It's possible, if the compressor has seized, that the system has been contaminated. (Google ''compressor black death'' for one possible scenario.) However, that isn't always the case.

First, let me say that I'm impressed with posting of the freeze frame data (which doesn't happen nearly frequently enough in my opinion). However, two points off for not giving us some basic maintenance history, if you happen to know it. Ideally LTFT would be 0.0%, but even though 12.5% isn't terrible, in the real world under 5% would be more acceptable. Since the trim is in the positive direction (assuming a minus sign didn't get lost), it indicates that the ECU ''thinks'' that the mixture is averaging lean, and therefore the injectors are being given a somewhat widened pulse to compensate. If the ECU is ''wrong'' about the A/F ratio (because it's being fed bad sensor data), it might be enriching it unnecessarily, and that could trigger the P0420. If that's what's going on, and you're inclined to change an O2 sensor, the front one is a more likely culprit than the rear. Since you have a scan tool, monitoring the O2's voltage swings might provide a clue. Of course, air metering and other factors can affect the mixture, and it's possible that the catalytic converter is actually bad. A pretty good article that might help with understanding fuel trim is at http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092006_11.pdf . Ones that cover causes of the P0420 code are http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102006_09.pdf and http://www.catalyticconverter.org/news/news_page.cfm?Key=catalytic_converter-&News=120 .

Yes, that could be caused by a few engine ''problems'', including how tight the engine is in the compartment. It seems ''someone'' was complaining about that in http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106459 . Maybe only the front two plugs got changed the last time because the rears were considered too hard to get to by whomever did the work.

The following is likely, but not guaranteed. The original colors are from Subaru info (although the ''red'' might be ''yellow/red''). The universal replacement colors are from http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mcolours1.htm Circuit--Original--Universal Signal---Black----Blue Heater--Red------Black Heater--White----Black You could verify that there's +12 volts on the original red (yellow/red) lead after starting the engine, which would be the heater supply/hot (the white should be the heater return/ground, switched by the ECU). Since the heater itself doesn't care about polarity, it would make sense that the replacement sensor's heater leads would both be the same color (black in this case). EDIT: Some early-90's cars used titania (not zirconia) oxygen sensors, and had black-red-white wires. Are you sure that the replacement is correct?

It seems that 2006 was the first model year that Subaru included language in the warranty to cover the seat belts (see https://www.subaru.com/my-subaru/warranties-2006.html). However, perhaps they decided to do so retroactively with previous models.

Yes, Phase II engines went into the '99 models. However, there were some less extensive changes in '97 that made the 2.2 an interference engine, if that's a consideration.

Here are the definitions for those codes (plus one more): P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input P0456 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Very Small Leak) P0457 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Fuel Cap Loose/Off) Here's a link to P04xx code info: http://www.endwrench.com/images/pdfs/CodesRevealed.pdf I included P0456 because it contrasts with P0457. If P0457 is being set, it seems that the ECU ''thinks'' that there is a more substantial EVAP system leak than would be the case for setting P0456. A leak of that sort should be possible to find as in http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EvapSpring04.pdf (assuming that the gas cap being left loose isn't the easier answer). Date/time stamping would require a clock, a means to reset it, and a backup power source. The ECU does record ''freeze frame'' data, which is a snapshot of the conditions under which a code is set. That data in conjunction with EVAP leak testing and circuit checks should lead to a resolution of the problem.

I couldn't say for certain. Recalls don't typically ''expire'', and usually second (third, ...) owners can take advantage of repairs. However, convincing Subaru that there was an original paint defect that led to the failure (rather than fatigue after a zillion miles ) might be a challenge.

This isn't an unknown problem, and if the break is in the ''wrong'' place a punctured tire is certainly a possibility. The following is from a 2001 list of NHTSA recalls. It wasn't just MY 95 that was affected, which is why the manufacturing dates shown are from Jan '94 - Jan '98, and some MY 99 also had the problem. Subaru of America, Inc. Models: Subaru Legacy Year: 1995 Number Involved: 180,000 Dates of Manufacture: January 1994 - January 1998 Defect: On certain Legacy passenger vehicles originally sold or currently registered in Connecticut, Delaware, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, New York, New Jersey, New Hampshire, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, Virginia, West Virginia, and Wisconsin, and in the District of Columbia, the front coil springs were produced with poor paint quality which, after continued exposure to corrosive salt, can result in breakage of the spring. Depending on the location of the fracture, a broken spring could move past the spring seat and contact a front tire. Some tires have deflated due to contact with a broken spring. Remedy: Dealers will install a spring guard on both front struts that will retain a broken spring, preventing its puncturing a tire. Any broken springs will also be replaced. The manufacturer has reported that owner notification was to begin during July 2001. Owners who do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Subaru at 1-856-488-8644.[NHTSA Recall No. 01V216]

ABS codes are retrieved by jumping specific pins of an under-dash diagnostic connector to ground. The ground ''probes'' and connector, if they haven't been used before (or were returned to their original postion), are usually taped to a wiring harness to the right of the steering column. A search on this forum should turn up previous threads on the topic.

It's common for one filament of a dual-filament lamp bulb to burn out.

I do believe we're being trolled.

For the brakes to release, the MC pistons have to come back far enough to uncover the ports. After 240,000 miles, it's possible that the pedal return spring has broken, weakened, etc. It could also be that the fluid got contaminated, causing the MC seals to swell and bind, not allowing the internal return springs to push the pistons back. Sometimes, the push rod is misadjusted.

A P0170 code indicates that the ECU ''thinks'' that it can't compensate enough to obtain a proper A/F ratio, as determined by O2 sensor data. That could be caused by any of a number of things. Leaks in the exhaust system before or immediately after the front O2 sensor is one possibility. Another is intake vacuum leaks (bad gaskets, cracks, damaged or misconnected hoses). Improper fuel pressure regulation (FPR itself, or vacuum to it) can cause this, as can air flow sensing problems (dirty or bad MAF or MAP, depending on what you've got). Wrong engine coolant temp sensor data is another possibility.

Yes, if it wasn't overheating previously then it's likely that there's now some air in the system that needs to be bled out.

There's something to consider when determining the voltage drop -- if the battery has been recently charged (even if just from the engine running), it will take on a ''surface charge''. The voltage can read higher than the typical 12.6-12.7 volts of a battery in good condition unless it's loaded for a few minutes. So if you measure a substantially lower voltage at the defogger than at the battery, remeasure the battery to verify it's still as high as any initial measurement.

See http://www.automotiveforums.com/t408416.html for some further insight.