OB99W

P0743 is triggered when there's a problem with the lock-up duty solenoid circuit, and the TCM (Transmission Control Module) output is sensed to be incorrect. The symptom of that failure is lack of torque converter lock-up (after the engine is sufficiently warm). 2004 is not the first model year that code applies to. P0743 is an OBD-II code, but is the same as an AT (TCM) code 77, and diagnosis is done by following the procedure for code 77. The first step is to determine if there are any other OBD-II codes present besides the P0743. If so, they should be dealt with before concern over the P0743, since other things can cause the TCM to malfunction. If P0743 is the only code, then the cause is likely a bad connection or damaged wiring, bad lock-up solenoid, or faulty TCM. The procedure is to check for wiring problems external to the transmission and operation of the TCM before opening the trans and checking for internal electrical problems related to the solenoid. Using a basic volt/ohmmeter and a ''Select Monitor'' (which any Subaru dealer should have), following the code 77 diagnostic procedure, I don't see why so much time would be needed to determine what's wrong. Perhaps the technician who is working on your car is inexperienced. You might find the following an interesting read: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?postid=147743#post147743

Or perhaps talk to these guys: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/. The ''Car Security and Convenience'' forum there might be an appropriate one.

I believe the Subaru BIU handles things such as lighting, as well as the less mundane keyless entry, immobilization, CAN-bus, etc. As has been mentioned, connecting a random piece of wire to the battery post or alternator output could certainly act as an antenna, and there can be plenty of electrical noise generated by the starter and/or alternator (or something we're not aware of) for it to radiate. Ideally, the battery has very low internal DC resistance, but AC-wise that's less the case and therefore signals need to be protected via shielding or decoupling (inductive/capacitive filtering). I assume BrightLights isn't yanking our chains, so maybe ''Twilight Zone'' really is the explanation.

Cougar has (gently ) nudged me to offer something more than ''Twilight Zone'' as a possible explanation for what's going on here. While I can't say with certainty, I believe that the unterminated and unshielded wire is somehow interfering with the key immobilizer. Many recent cars use a transponder that interacts with the key via RF, and perhaps that communication is being disrupted. Manufacturers use twisted wires and shields to a much greater degree than they used to, in order to prevent (or at least minimize) interference. Those techniques have been suggested in this thread, and might resolve the problem. So might taking power from another point, as has also already been suggested. For those interested in just how sophisticated automotive electronics has become, do a Google search on terms like ''immobilizer'', ''BIU'' (Body Integrated Unit), and ''BCM'' (Body Control Module). By the way, that sophistication has made installation of aftermarket electronics a bit more difficult (and risky, in terms of possibly damaging things if a wrong connection is made) than it used to be.

The tensioner sometimes gets damaged if it isn't compressed properly (not enough time taken, or the wrong orientation). Assuming a new timing belt, idlers in good shape, and the tensioner doing its job, a possible cause of the timing belt jumping is a camshaft or the water pump being too reluctant to turn.

When you press the throttle in the car, are you sitting in the car? What happens if you remain outside, but reach in and press it? (In other words, is your weight on the seat perhaps shifting something?)

Assuming the cam sensor itself is good, an engine that quits for no apparent reason coupled with a cam sensor code often equals a snapped timing belt. The lack of cranking can have several causes, including operator/''technician'' error, failed neutral/inhibitor switch, a part ''borrowed'' while car was left on NYC street, ...

Make sure that the crank pulley isn't loose or wobbling -- it's a common cause of accessory belt squeal. If that's okay, and you want to verify the noise is coming from an accessory belt, lightly spray the belt with water. The noise will stop or change significantly while wet.

Completely off topic (or is it? ), but 2009 is the 50th anniversary of ''Twilight Zone''. (Rod Serling was a denizen of central NY.)

Unfortunately, from your description of symptoms, it's likely that the engine is experiencing head gasket failure. The ''sticky goo'' usually isn't oil (although there might be a bit), but rather combustion byproducts (exhaust), sometimes reacting with the ethylene glycol coolant.

If you haven't seen it already, the piece entitled ''Assembling 1997 And Newer Engines'' on pages 24-25 of http://www.endwrench.com/current/summer03/InsiderInfoEndFall03.pdf might be interesting.

The ECU knowing whether the car is in neutral or not (code 51) and it getting good VSS data (code 33) are both important to proper engine running. However, it's also possible that the ''anemia'' and pop when shifting might indicate a slight valve timing issue -- you might want to check the timing belt installation. Also consider things that might affect A/F ratio, such as possible intake leaks, etc. EDIT: Here's some info on the 2.2 t-belt installation, just in case. 2.2 Liter, timing belt: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf (last one includes new-style tensioner info)

The level when cold isn't as accurate an indicator as hot, but it does seem like the trans might be overfilled. An excessively high ATF level can cause the fluid to become aerated, especially as it expands when warm. Aerated fluid won't properly transmit hydraulic pressure, leading to incorrect operation. When you check the hot level, also note if there are bubbles in the fluid on the dipstick. By the way, it's a bit tricky to get an accurate reading of the level. I'll see if I can find an older thread where a technique was described to help with that. EDIT: The following is from one of my previous posts. What I'm about to describe is based on what Subaru suggests and my own experience. The first step is to get the trans up to ''operating temperature''. How long a run that takes depends on whether the car is being driven or just idling, the ambient temperature, etc. It could be a few minutes of highway running, or 30 minutes idling. Once the fluid is at the correct temperature, you should step the selector through the gears, and back to Park. Pull the dipstick, wipe it, and leave it out for about two minutes. That allows any fluid in the dip tube that has ''wicked'' up the dipstick to flow down, and for the fluid temperature (and excessive expansion) to normalize if the car was just driven very hard. Then insert the dipstick fully, remove it, and look at both sides of the stick -- you may find a different level indicated on each side. If there's a difference, the one indicating the lower level is probably more accurate. If you see a significant number of bubbles on the stick, the fluid has become aerated, and even if the level seems correct it may not be able to be trusted.

Welcome to the forum. Look down, closer to the brake booster/master cylinder.

Yes -- http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/WheelBearing.pdf

I believe that '99 and later 2.2L engines are speced for the 105,000 mile belt change interval. EDIT: See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13016

Welcome to the forum. These should get you started: http://www.endwrench.com/current/02SpringInsiderInfo.pdf (beginning on page 22) http://endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/MoreP0440TipsInfoW00.pdf

Yes, the procedure and clearance specs in the 2.2L article are also correct for the 2.5 SOHC -- just to be certain, I verified that in a factory manual. Be sure to use the additional info I provided (engine cold, etc.), and the proper cam sprocket mark (yes, it's the arrow for valve clearance). You're welcome. EDIT: Note that the clearance unit is millimeters -- 0.20 mm is only 0.0079 inch and 0.25 mm is just 0.0098 inch.

Well, I did a search, and apparently the topic came up not that long ago, with a familiar OP. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100409

So I guess we're discussing a manual trans. In that case, flushing isn't commonly done.

Perhaps you haven't gotten a response because you haven't told us which trans you have. Some details, please.

Sorry, I didn't know you were looking for 2.5 SOHC info. (I looked at your other threads, and it seems we're discussing a 2002.) There's no need for it, your engine should be covered by the info on page 15 of the EndWrench article linked to in your first post of this thread. Be sure to work on the engine cold, both to get the right adjustment and to keep your skin happier. The rocker adjustment locknut should be tightened to 7 ft-lbs after adjustment. Since tightening the locknut slightly changes the clearance, turn the crank two full turns after adjustment and recheck clearances when the cam sprocket arrow aligns again for each cylinder. It's a trade secret. (Actually, it's no secret that the search function at the site is less than stellar.)

I assume what you mean by that is the HGs would be covered by warranty if the dealer agreed they were ''leaking enough''. In my opinion, if they're leaking sufficiently to not be trusted, then they should be replaced under any warranty that's in force. If the lost coolant and or/oil doesn't have to be topped up too frequently, and the replacement would be an out-of-pocket expense, then perhaps you should wait. Obviously, don't allow fluid levels to get low enough to risk engine damage. Have you asked the dealer how much more the HGs would cost on top of the timing belt expense? Consider idlers, possibly seals.

Sure, it could have a bad timing belt idler or tensioner, but given the misfire on all four and the noise, it might be accompanied with the timing having slipped several teeth on an interference engine.

Radiator stop leak is supposed to only harden when exposed to air, not while in liquid coolant. However, if a cooling system either isn't properly filled, or has coolant forced out due to an internal HG leak, it's possible for stop leak to harden and block small passages within the system.