OB99W

Disengagement of the compressor clutch, followed soon after by re-engagement, often indicates low refrigerant level. However, another possibility is that there is a restriction in the system (clogged orifice, stuck-closed expansion valve, etc.). That can cause the compressor clutch to disengage shortly after engaging, but re-engagement takes longer because the restriction slows pressure equalization. It will also eventually minimize the oil in the compressor, which may then fail.

DOHC valve info: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5EngineValve.pdf

While there are a few possible causes for the engine to not fire, incorrect timing during a belt change is a common one. Using the wrong marks on the crank and cam sprockets is often the cause (the arrows are not the correct marks). The following links should help if that's the problem. 2.2 Liter, timing belt: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf Recent thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102383

There are several codes related to the throttle position sensor. What's the specific code (not the code definition)? In addition to stalling as already mentioned, the idle quality and engine performance in general can be compromised. Also, automatic trans operation can be affected by incorrect TPS data. EDIT: By the way, the problems might be intermittent.

We don't tend to see the TT's here. The code 66 is a D-Check code, obtained as in the first link below. The other links might help pin down the problem. http://www.veloce.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Otherttdocs/cel.htm http://www.veloce.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/TT%20PDFs/Code-66S-TwinTurbo.pdf http://bbs.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/356320-fault-code-66-import-legacy-gtb.html http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=90573&mode=linear

If the lenses are too far gone for toothpaste but not so bad that sanding is required, automotive rubbing and polishing compound might be an alternative. See http://automotive.hardwarestore.com/90-549-rubbing-compound.aspx . A protective coat (wax or more) would still be a good idea after such polishing.

Defective/inadequate ignition wires can cause misfire, and sufficient misfire can cause P0420 to be triggered. A small amount of misfire won't cause a misfire code (P030x) to be triggered, and a cat that's working correctly should be able to handle a little misfire without triggering P0420. If you're not getting any misfire codes (may be pending), and can't detect any roughness in engine running, then the ignition wires are probably not the cause. A decent scan tool (not just a code reader) can give some insight into the problem -- freeze frame and other data could provide good clues as to what's happening. An exhaust gas analyzer would also be a useful tool. Even just knowing what both O2 sensor outputs look like would help immensely. Without that kind of info, it's likely to remain hard to pin this down.

There are a few possible causes of what you're describing. Wheel balance and tire damage are common ones. If the car was driven in a muddy area, check that there isn't a lump of mud stuck to a wheel. Looseness in the front end or misalignment can worsen the effect of wheel/tire problems. Swapping front with rear wheels/tires and seeing if there's a change might help with the diagnosis. Here are a few links with good info that can be applied to Subaru (and other brands ): http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ChaseEWAug06.pdf http://www.aa1car.com/library/vibrations.htm http://www.aa1car.com/library/tires2.htm

One possibility: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1270022,parttype,8905

If loosening the radiator cap releases the suction, see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87072

If the gauge is accurate, but the gas pump at the station is shutting off before the tank is filled, see http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/VehicleWont.pdf .

The link I gave in post #17 of this thread for causes of P0420 no longer works. Here's a new one to the same info: http://www.catalyticconverter.org/news/news_page.cfm?Key=catalytic_converter-&News=120

Not that it's critical to the current discussion, but your old threads are still available. Probably the easiest way to find them is to click on your user name at the top of any of your posts, which will bring up your profile. Then scroll down in the profile, and click on ''Find all threads started by mountainwalker''.

While a problem with either the neutral switch or the idle air solenoid control valve can trigger P1507, neither should cause the speedo to quit. On the other hand, a VSS (vehicle speed sensor)-related problem can cause the speedo issue and trigger P1507. A separate code for the VSS isn't always triggered.

Not intentionally. Valve timing (synchronization of camshafts with crankshaft) is accomplished by properly aligning things during the belt replacement. As to ignition timing, there is nothing to adjust. Perhaps the belt was installed misaligned by one tooth, but as you mentioned there are several possibilities. It's common for other work to be done at the same time as the timing belt replacement -- was there? Since you didn't mention it, can we assume that ''check engine'' isn't lit?

Welcome to the forum. A slightly different definition for P0066 is ''Air assist injector solenoid valve circuit low input''. That air valve is in the intake, and either a defective solenoid coil or problem with the wiring to it can cause the ECU to see a ''low input''.

There are several things that can cause the P0420 catalyst efficiency code to be generated, including simple things like exhaust system leaks. See http://www.catalyticconverter.org/news/news_page.cfm?Key=catalytic_converter-&News=120 for some ideas. Was the replacement cat an OEM unit?

Looking at a 2004 factory wiring diagram, things are a little confusing. It shows three different versions -- manual trans, and both 4-speed and 5-speed auto. I had thought that the 5-speed auto wasn't yet available on the 2004. The 5-speed uses a relay to switch the back-up lights. I'm going to assume that you have a 4EAT, and my following suggestions are based on wiring for that. When in reverse, is 12 volts at the back-up lamp sockets (brown/yellow wires)? If so, check socket ground connection (black). If not, check that 12 volts is getting to inhibitor switch (pin #1, red/white wire of 12-pin connector T7). If 12 volts isn't at the inhibitor switch, check connection at other end of red/white wire (pin #9 of 12-pin connector T3 which mates with B12) near front of trans, becoming green/blue wire. If the problem doesn't get resolved with that info, let us know what you find -- I can post some more details based on what you report back.

P0100: It could be a wiring or connection problem, although a bad MAF itself isn't unusual. Try moving the wiring at the MAF while running and see if the conditions change. You could also see how the engine runs with the MAF disconnected. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101117 for some more info. P0400: Assuming that the EGR valve itself is clean and operating correctly, have you also checked/cleaned the EGR intake and head passages?

Most of what you've described indicates that the air/fuel mixture is excessively rich. The MAF might be bad (cleaning doesn't always resolve the problem). Also, a defective fuel pressure regulator could cause the pressure to be too high, or be allowing raw fuel to enter the intake via vacuum hose due to a ruptured diaphragm. There are other possibilities. Rather than providing the trouble code definitions, do you have the actual codes (Pxxxx)?

Since the FWD doesn't have a driveshaft going to the rear, its fuel tank doesn't have compartments to each side that would require the jet pump to transfer fuel from one to the other.

Does the warning light on the dash come on when a door is open?

Some of the switches are set up with the middle position being ''OFF'' and the ''DOOR'' position at the end opposite that of ''ON''.

Welcome to the forum. I assume you're getting the P0420 code -- if so, that doesn't ensure that the cat is bad. See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101583 and the links within it for more info.

If the diagnosis was based solely on getting a P0340 (and possibly P0341) code, the problem could be the sensor, but just as easily might indicate a bad connection. You might want to check connector E15 (at the sensor) and connectors E1/B20 (6-pin at the rear of the engine, passenger side) for contamination.