OB99W

Hose pliers could work, if there's enough clearance. However, it might first be necessary to break the bond between the boot and plug. If possible, work a thin tool between the boot and the plug's insulator. The tool should be lubricated with dielectric grease or similar silicone-based lubricant. Insert and remove the grease-covered tool several times, as necessary to cover the entire circumference. If that can be done successfully, the boot should be much easier to remove.

As I see it, there are only two possible scenarios for the ''low'' side of the heater to be at too high a voltage: 1) The resistance across the heater is too low, due to the heater itself or wiring. Since you've replaced the sensor, its probably unlikely that its heater is the cause. There could be a battery-side wiring short -- you should be able to check for that by disconnecting the ECU and A/F sensor, and measure resistance across the connector pins that would go to the heater. --or-- 2) The ECU is incapable of pulling the heater's low side close enough to ground. Hopefully the problem isn't within the ECU itself, since it was also already replaced. A wideband A/F sensor's heater draws a lot of current (you noted the low resistance). Therefore, it's critical that the path from the heater's low side to ground isn't excessively resistive. I realize that you've checked ECU ground wiring resistance and found it to be ''zero'', but only a few tenths of an ohm can make the difference between the heater's low side being at what you've measured or the less-than-8-volts spec.

Specifically where were the above voltages measured and to what ground reference?

It's frustrating that you did all the work and still had a problem, but unfortunately sometimes JY parts are in as bad condition or worse than the part you're replacing.

Using a spark plug socket with the rubber insert removed is a good approach, and it may be worth sacrificing a socket to the cause. Once the plug is out, if the original insert will no longer be secure enough in the socket to trust that it won't do exactly what has already happened, either glue it in place or buy another socket.

Before going into this in depth, did you use an OEM Subaru sensor for the replacement?

Warm the engine, and run it at idle. Sucking on a vacuum hose attached to the EGR valve should cause the idle to falter (possibly even causing a stall) if the valve is okay and the exhaust passages aren't obstructed. With the hoses properly connected, revving from idle should cause the valve to move enough to be seen. The following two links might be useful to troubleshoot P0400: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf http://www.vcertt.org/news/11-02.pdf

Here are some links to articles about A/C: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ACTheory.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ACMechanism.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Service07MayEW.pdf http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac98.htm

Is it possible that the rim you used as a replacement is itself bent? Have you tried swapping a wheel that is known to run true to the rear passenger position? It might be that the tire itself was damaged by the impact, and is bulging. That would be likely if the rim runs true (check runout) but the tire doesn't.

2.2 Liter: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf Be sure to use the lines (''hash marks'') on the sprockets, not the arrows, when checking the timing. Don't be concerned about the belt marks, as long as the sprocket marks are in the right relationship to each other.

See this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84657 . Just verifying opening temp doesn't cover the entire issue. A partially restricted radiator in combination with a possibly-not-to-spec thermostat might cause what you experienced (although it still has the earmarks of bad HGs).

If the fluid smelled ''burned'', it's likely there was slippage, whether it was noticed or not. At this point, full replacement (not just pan drain/refill) and a new filter would probably be prudent.

Thanks for the link, Larry. The info looks like it could be somewhat useful by itself, but perhaps more so in addition to a CARFAX report. The following addresses some of the limitations: http://www.aamva.org/GovAffairs/IssueWatch/NMVTIS/CAFAQ.htm#1

I made the same assumption about lack of an air pocket, since it was running okay for 500 miles. I'm also assuming (for the same reason) that the thermostat is an OEM Subaru unit (some of the aftermarket ones aren't up to the job), and that the radiator cap is good.

The original engine failure might have partially clogged the radiator (the debris could be from that) -- flow testing it (as opposed to just flushing) might tell you if that's what's going on. If not, unfortunately the symptoms you've reported are typical of bad HGs.

As long as the engine is basically healthy (checked compression?), the mileage itself shouldn't be an issue. As Gary already mentioned, air filter and PCV valve (and tubing) are things to look at. In addition, what you've described could be due to either a fuel delivery problem (insufficient fuel pressure/volume?) or possibly some exhaust restriction. It's not likely that you'll find stored codes if you've never seen the CEL lit. The interface is standard OBD-II, so an adapter probably won't be needed for your buddy's reader.

Congrats! So the cure was a second JY part?

You're welcome. There are a few possible causes of P1443. Two ''simple'' things to be aware of: 1) Don't fuel the car with the ignition switch ON, and don't remove the gas cap with the engine running. 2) Yes, make sure the gas cap is fully tightened, and that neither it nor the mating surface of the filler are damaged. Sometimes minor obstructions in EVAP system tubing can trip the code -- check for that if the ''simple'' doesn't cure the problem.

Welcome to the forum. The vent control solenoid valve is part of the EVAP system, which deals with fuel vapors. Just to make sure we give you the proper advice, what was the trouble code -- P1423, P1443, or something else?

The sensor itself isn't necessarily causing the problem. A severe enough electrical problem with the FR sensor (bad connection, open/shorted coil, etc.) would usually result in code 21. Code 22, ''Abnormal ABS sensor signal - FR'', is more likely due to a weak/noisy or varying signal. Assuming that you replaced the sensor with a new one, the condition of its pole piece tip shouldn't be an issue, and its coil should be okay. Since you've apparently already checked for certain obvious problems (connections, dirt, etc.), I'll suggest some others. There could be a problem with the sensor gap (spacing between the sensor tip and tone wheel). The gap has to be within certain limits, and not vary too much as the wheel turns -- since the front left side seems to be okay, compare the right side to that. One possible cause is the sensor not being fully seated (due to rust, etc.). Another is damage to the tone wheel (a crack between teeth sometimes isn't easy to spot). If the hub has excessive runout, that could cause the gap (and therefore the signal) to vary too much as the wheel rotates. If you have access to an oscilloscope, one of the best ways to check wheel sensor operation is to look at its output while the wheel is turned at a relatively constant speed. That will reveal the signal level and whether there are significant variations. However, a 'scope isn't a necessity.

Yes, spark plug wires have to conduct properly. They also have to not ''leak'' voltage before it gets to the plug. You might be surprised how many plug wires fail at one or the other task.

Especially if it hasn't been used before, the ABS diagnosis connector might be taped to other wiring, so check closely. If you have the later arrangement, it might be a 6-pin (usually black) connector that's often taped up to the harness under the dash, to the right of the steering column, along with two ''diagnosis terminals'' (grounding probes). See: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=668884 If so, with the ignition switch OFF, insert a ''diagnosis terminal'' into pin location #6 of the connector. Then turn the ignition switch ON (don't start the engine) -- that should get you the ABS blink codes.

If the catalyst isn't efficient enough, it will generate a code. However, if there's enough active surface area still available, even if loose, it won't trigger a code. There's no question that excessive backpressure can reduce engine performance. A damaged cat can cause it, but so can a collapsed exhaust pipe or a muffler with a loose baffle. I once saw a car (not a Subaru) that would barely accelerate, and when the engine was revved you could actually see the muffler very slightly expand due to a blockage near its outlet. I don't advocate removing catalytic convertors, but the reduction in backpressure from doing so isn't a problem. For one thing, the remainder of the exhaust system (muffler, etc) provides sufficient restriction if it were needed. Furthermore, the problem with too low backpressure tended to be in the past, when modifying a car with a carbureted engine. If the backpressure was lessened enough so that the engine ran particularly lean, exhaust valves could be burned. On modern engines with engine management systems, that doesn't happen -- the ECU would just compensate. Doing that is probably somewhat misguided, since a cat that's not damaged is usually free-flowing enough to not greatly affect performance.

Look at post #5 of the following for info on using the ABS-2E diagnostic connector: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84715 Once you've read the code(s), post them here and we'll determine what they mean.

Yes, and as CNY_Dave said in the thread concerning your car being slow, ''the catalytic converter(s) could be somewhat blocked'', so checking for that makes sense. A vacuum gauge could help determine if there's exhaust system blockage.