OB99W

Pinning down the source of a chassis vibration can sometimes be difficult, since seemingly unrelated problems can be the cause. The following links might be helpful: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ChaseEWAug06.pdf http://www.aa1car.com/library/vibrations.htm http://www.aa1car.com/library/tires2.htm

Any possibility you're smelling exhaust fumes? See:http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ExhaustInfo.pdf

Poor gas mileage in combination with the P0420 code makes it much more likely for the problem(s) to be due to a bad O2 sensor. At 130k miles, cat efficiency can be down, but unless it's also causing an exhaust restriction, gas mileage doesn't suffer. A new cat, which could be more efficient than the one currently on the car, might handle things for a while, making it look like a bad cat was the cause even if the front O2 sensor is the real culprit.

There's a bit more to it than that. If the ECU doesn't have full control of the engine (it could even be in a limp mode), it might not be prudent to allow cruise mode to be enabled.

The results seem to vary, but considering that the conditioner is only a few dollars (often under $3) it may be worth the gamble. Of course, if the oil leakage is bad enough to merit changing the HGs anyway, then there may not be a point in trying to seal the coolant leak.

Before you panic, why not try Subaru Coolant Conditioner?

I've generally had good results with mid-line batteries from one of the Johnson Controls brands. They OEM for a lot of companies; many domestic-market Subarus came with Johnson Controls batteries. It's important that the battery be fresh -- a "stale" battery will suffer from sulfation to at least some degree, shortening its capacity and life. Batteries that seem to "need water" when purchased have probably been sitting around too long or in a too-warm environment. See: http://autos.msn.com/advice/CRArt.aspx?contentid=4023696 .

Grooving has to be fairly deep for it to be the sole reason to resurface or replace rotors. For info on that and other brake issues, see: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/FrictionFeb06EW.pdf .

Welcome back! Keep in mind that beginning with the '97 model year, the 2.2 is an interference engine -- unless you know the timing belt isn't due, it might be a good idea to replace it. Depending on the mileage, while you're in there it could be time for other things as well.

NGK numbering system:http://www.ngk.com/sparkplug411_manufacturer.asp?manufacturerID=1

On rereading your post -- an inoperative (intentionally or otherwise) EGR valve typically would generate a P0400 code due to the ECU not seeing flow, so getting just the misfire codes is "interesting". I have to give this a bit more thought.

Well, it was a long shot, but the "obvious" causes seem to have been already covered. My interpretation is that CCR probably didn't transfer the sensors, but that the ones on the engine aren't necessarily "new". I agree -- it's great that the site is back up (and the work getting it there is appreciated), but a color scheme/template similar to the previous one would be easier on the eyes.

If the Woodinville that JustinUtherChris is at is in the state of Washington, they definitely get snow there.

Without knowing the exact trouble code, it's hard to troubleshoot. However, you might want to check the condition of the vacuum hose going to the FPR. I think it's a short one that probably can be seen near/under the power steering pump.

There are a few possible causes, but can we start with the code (rather than a code definition)? Is it P0171 or P0174, or something else?

Ask your mechanic to check that the oil pump back plate screws are tight -- if loose, that can cause leaks at the crank seal. By the way, check that the PCV system is working correctly, since if plugged it can cause or worsen leaks at all the seals.

Assuming you got plugs of the proper heat range, it's not likely. As to the squeal, you might want to closely check the crank pulley. Although it would be unusual for a six year old model to have a problem with it, a loose pulley or failure of the rubber between the two halves can cause squealing.

No, I'm not suggesting 2WD, just questioning whether "No risk of torque bind" is a reasonable statement. It may be a low risk with a manual, but it still isn't a bad idea to check for it, and a potential buyer should be aware of that. A '96 car with about 130k miles on has had less than average use. Anyone considering a 13 year old model might be looking at ones with yet higher mileage, and shouldn't assume that even parts at low-risk haven't failed.

No clutch pack or "C" duty solenoid, but what about the viscous coupler?

For the models we've been discussing, 400 to 700 kohms is what the FSM says are the limits. That's why a 560k resistor (standard value) can be used in a test, since it's about midway in the acceptable range for the sensor. By the way, the reason the knock sensor wiring may seem "strange" is due to the nature of the signal it sends to the ECU. The output produced is a small fraction of a volt, and can be interfered with unless precautions are taken. That's why the ground (shield) is not connected at the sensor end (minimizing stray electrical signal pickup by eliminating a "ground loop"), and why the positioning of the lead is important.

Part-throttle going up hills is a typical condition that can induce "knock" (pinging). If that's what you're hearing, try a tankful of premium gas and see if it goes away. However... ...as GD suggested, the squeal is a concern. You could temporarily run without the accessory belts (just be ready for no steering power assist), and if you still hear the squeal, GD's case is more likely.

Well, as I said, my experience was a "once only" (so far, but it's been months since the first time). Since yours is repeatable, you might be able to pin it down more readily. Please report back if a different oil filter eliminates the problem (as if you wouldn't otherwise, Nipper ), and what brand the filter on there now is. So far, if it isn't coincidence, the common connection seems to be "really short trip", then sitting for some time before restarting.

Best of luck -- let's hope your scare was a one-time thing, and the trip is "uneventful".

Did the cranking seem a bit "strained", and was the idle slightly rough as well? I had an experience with my '99 OB several months ago. The car had been sitting overnight. I needed to move it few (about 25) feet, and I then shut the engine right down. Several hours later, when I started it, the first couple of revolutions seemed somewhat labored, and there was considerable internal engine noise that my OB had never made before. I thought something bad had happened, but within a couple of minutes things quieted down to the customary sounds. There wasn't enough time (fortunately!?) to determine the cause. The problem hasn't since recurred. As to oil filters, the OB had an OEM Subaru (Tokyo Roki) filter on at the time; it and the oil were neither recently changed nor close to being due for a change. In my case, I think an injector may have hung open somewhat, causing a bit more fuel than the engine liked in one cylinder. That could explain the slightly sluggish start (near hydrolock), and also might have lead to the plug being gas-fouled and the cylinder not firing. Furthermore, if oil got washed off the cylinder wall by the fuel, it might have allowed the piston to rattle around more than it normally would until the plug started firing and an oil cushion developed again. ... Or not ... :-\

The FSM indicates the sensor should have a resistance between 400 kohms and 700 kohms. If you're not seeing that between the sensor's terminal and the block, that's likely the problem. People have used a 560 kohm resistor to "replace" the knock sensor when they thought it was overly sensitive, something I'd never suggest doing. However, for the purpose of troubleshooting, you could temporarily replace the sensor with such a resistor (connected from where the sensor usually plugs into the harness, to a convenient ground), and the code should not recur after being cleared if the sensor was at fault. If the code returns, there are wiring/connection problems -- or the ECU itself is faulty (possible, but unlikely).