OB99W

Mike, did you try what I suggested in the last sentence of post #31, concerning the main relay?

A friend recently informed me that there is a way to reverse the "lost smoke" problem. It's not specific to Subaru, but still makes for "interesting" reading. See http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm .

The module is labeled "Illumi Con Unit". If any lit accessory has been changed or added recently (radio, for example), make sure the wiring was done correctly, or you may be replacing the module more than once.

http://www.partsamerica.com/Maintenance/MaintenanceTireProblem.aspx See especially the section "Diagonal scuffing and cupping". Also, any signs of torque bind?

Another possibility to consider -- an exhaust leak can both cause a whistle and set P0420.

That's true, which is why the last sentence of my post #89 of this thread says "If you get a CEL while the EGR is disabled, please read the code(s) and report what you've gotten, since it might be other than the misfire ones under these conditions." By reading all the codes after running for a while -- more than one can be stored. EGR codes could be ignored during the "diagnostic procedure", but I still would like to know of any code(s) being set.

If you find the engine performance to be significantly affected, quit at that point, whether or not anything has been determined by then; it could mean that there's knock (which you might not even hear). On the other hand, as long as the car seems to be running okay, use it with EGR disabled until you either get a CEL and read codes, or you've run it longer than it ever took for the misfire codes to be set. It is an experiment, but "diagnostic procedure" is certainly a more professional way of describing it.

Sorry to read that you're having issues beyond the car itself. Yes, it would be good to know if the cam and crank sensors got transfered. Although the vacuum gauge readings that you're reporting would be low in my area, at your elevation they're probably about right. Vacuum to the EGR valve is ported/controlled, so it shouldn't be steady. When you get the chance, pull the hose at the valve, plug it, and see what happens. Don't run the car that way any longer than is necessary to determine if the misfiring situation changes. Just in case anyone reading this doesn't understand why McDave suggested premium gas while running this "experiment" -- exhaust injected into the intake when the EGR valve is open cools things a bit, and regular grade would be sufficient. When the EGR is disabled, a higher octane might be required to prevent knocking that could cause the ECU to retard timing.

I agree that it wasn't likely your imagination. The issue isn't directly temperature, but air density (which decreases with increased temperature, other things being equal). If you're looking for performance, more-dense (colder) air is what you want. A ram arrangement helps, although obviously to a greater degree as speed increases. Of course, a turbo can assist as well.

An engine that "sat around" for three years could have some internal corrosion, especially if the oil hadn't been changed before it was left "sitting". Even if the oil and filter were changed when the car was put back in usage, it can quickly become contaminated if there was corrosion. As McDave said, HLAs could be bleeding down, assuming the engine is not a '98, but actually a '96 or earlier (solids were used '97 and later). Looking at real-time OBD data isn't a bad idea, and might reveal something. If it doesn't (especially if the engine has HLAs), I'd try changing the oil and filter again. If that doesn't make a difference, consider the possibility that one or more fuel injectors are somewhat leaking. Excess gas in a cylinder can make cranking harder, wet out the plug, wash oil from the cylinder wall, etc.

Further info, from Subaru (EndWrench): http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf See page 12, bottom, left.

See http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic70228.htm . Under "REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES", step 8 says:>>Before you reassemble, there is one more step. Check and tighten the screws for the oil pump cover. These screws come loose and allow oil pressure into the crankseal cavity, which can push the crankseal out. This pressure loss also can cause the lifters to be a little noisy, which may be the initial clue that something is wrong in this area, beside the obvious oil leaks. <<

Do a Google Web search on "subaru keyless remote" (without the quotes). That should turn up several of the online suppliers. It'll probably cost less than $50 in total. Get the remaining key copied, program the remote, and that should do it.

Ooops, very sorry about that, Emily. I've seen the reference made on another board before, and nobody questioned it. I'm glad you've corrected my error. (It's quite a coincidence that there are two "MWE" axle builders in Colorado, however.) I'll edit my post above to reflect this information.

The definition for code P0519 is "Idle Control System Malfunction (Fail-Safe)". A known cause of the Subaru-specific code P1507 is a failing (often intermittent) neutral switch. See http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DiagTroubSum04.pdf . The relevancy is that the definition for Subaru P1507 is "Idle Control System Malfunction (Fail-Safe)". You can try to verify the condition of the neutral switch by meter, but as the EndWrench article says, it can be difficult to confirm. I don't know what the Subaru tech with 7,000 posts said, but since the neutral switch isn't very expensive, perhaps he just replaces it when the code comes up. Of course, the cause could still be IAC-related...

Mark Williams Enterprises is involved in a bit more than rebuilding Subaru axles. See http://www.markwilliams.com/ . From CCR: http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/index.html EDIT: Apparently there are two "MWE" companies doing axle work in Colorado, and the link above is not to the correct one. See post #8 below.

See, McDave, you're not invisible after all.

While what McDave is suggesting is reasonable, it was my understanding that cam and crank sensors, etc., came with the "new" engine, and were not transfered from the "old" one. If that's the case, it would be a significant coincidence if the problem were the same with both the old and current engine. It's also my understanding that the intake manifold and what's mounted to it are primarily what got transferred from the old engine, and that's why I'm concentrating on things related to that. If I'm incorrect about what was reused, please clarify that.

If the gauge has not been indicating anything "suspicious" when you have been able to watch it, it's improbable that anything of significance is related to what CCR is responsible for. It's likely their rebuilt engine is just fine, mounting of the intake went okay, etc. I wonder if this was another time of deceleration (as you were responding to those crossing the street); you had previously reported you thought that might be a condition that triggered the problem. Yes, I joked about watched pots, etc. I'm still thinking about the possibility of EGR problems. Although it's not a definitive test, sometimes temporarily disconnecting and plugging the vacuum line at the EGR valve is enough to diagnose the possibility. Not all Subaru engines have EGR, but assuming yours does, the valve sticks out almost horizontally to the rear of the intake manifold cylinder #4 runner. If you would humor me, try disconnecting the vacuum hose at the EGR valve itself, and plug the hose end with a nail or something similar that will provide a good seal. Then drive as usual and see if the misfire code(s) appear again. (It would still be possible to have a problem if the valve never seals properly due to carbon buildup, but might be telling if the valve is just sticking.) If you get a CEL while the EGR is disabled, please read the code(s) and report what you've gotten, since it might be other than the misfire ones under these conditions.

P0743 indicates an electrical problem related to duty solenoid B, which is why you're not getting torque converter lockup. I'm looking at a '97 diagram, which hopefully is the same as your '98. The wiring from the solenoid goes to pins 4 and 6 of mating 16-pin trans and body wiring connectors, and from there to the TCU connector. The 16-pin connector is "square" (four rows of four pins each), so pin 4 is at a corner. Perhaps that connector is partially dislodged, or maybe the wiring somehow got damaged during the engine work. Unless McDave is right about physical damage inside the trans, I'd suggest looking externally at the 16-pin connector and wiring to and from it.

I hope so as well -- the "wink" was certainly meant to convey that my comment wasn't serious.I am serious when I offer suggestions or opinions concerning Subaru problems, however.

Probably related to:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91327 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91328

Yes, that could avoid possible trouble. Any excessive resistance would be an indication of a problem. It's easiest to do (and tell if something's wrong) if spark plugs are out at the time.

Self-deprecation doesn't suit you. If the misfire never occurs while the gauge is attached, the problem might have something to do with the particular port or hose, or it could be that something else was disturbed in the process of connecting the gauge. However, if the misfire should return when the vacuum hose is reconnected as it was originally, we have something more specific to consider. Personally, I'm waiting for additional data from subsince77 before coming to any conclusions.

Just to make it clear, I wasn't questioning the 47 and 43.5 tooth counts, just finding it amazing that Subaru is as precise as "46.8" and "43.7" when they specify it. I'd certainly expect the marks on a genuine Subaru belt to be correctly positioned. It would take quite a number more than two revolutions for the marks to again be in alignment. The tooth count, however, should remain correct no matter how much the engine has been turned, if nothing has slipped.