OB99W

For reference:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90245 It's not likely. If it's not even giving an occasional cough, it's possible that all the injectors are clogged. However, it's more likely that there's no spark, and the use of "old" gas may have just been coincidental. There are a few things that can cause loss of ignition and other problems leading to your car's symptoms, but since in your last thread you indicated the car is still under warranty, why not let the dealer take care of it? If you really want to avoid the dealer, we can offer further troubleshooting suggestions.

It's hard to say for certain. ATF serves as a means of applying pressure to actuate mechanisms, but also as a lubricant and coolant. When trans fluid is low enough, reduced pressure leads to slippage, etc., and that can heat things which then can't be cooled properly. But as grossgary said "if it's shifting and acting fine now that's a good sign". How does the fluid on the dipstick smell and look? If it seems "burned" (which in 20 miles of running low is possible, but not that likely unless the car was driven hard), I'd do a complete flush/replacement with ATF and put on a new external filter. On the other hand, if the fluid still seems pretty fresh and there's no noticable operation problem, I wouldn't be too concerned. Just make sure the level is correct now and stays that way, and every so often ask your mom how it's working.

You're welcome. I'm glad it turned out well.

Some Subarus around '01-'02 had problems with O2 sensors and with the way the ECU interpreted their operation. The bad O2 sensors were supposed to be replaced, and the ECUs should have been "reflashed" (programming in the "flash" memory updated), at no charge to the owner. Here's a link that has the full story on WWF-89; click on the thumbnails at: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7043 If you don't want to talk to the local dealer, you could probably call SoA, provide the VIN, and ask them if all the service campaigns have been completed on the car. EDIT: Fixed WWP-99 link in post #4, above.

WWP-99 info: http://www.snedcs.com/dcsmain/service/WWP_subnet2-5-04.htm Other service campaigns that might relate to an '01 Forester: WXW-80 O2 sensor WWF-89 ECU reflash

Yours does that, too?

Since I don't know your mom, I have to ask: Does she know the difference between the engine not responding to throttle, and the trans not delivering power (slipping)? If it's slippage, checking the ATF would be a good first step. If the level is low, look around the spin-on filter you replaced. Perhaps the gasket isn't sealing correctly, or the filter can crimp is imperfect, etc., causing a slow leak.

Yeah! Chilton's can make an easy job seem overly complicated, but they also sometimes do the reverse. There's nothing quite like taking something apart only to find that the next step requires a tool you don't have handy, or having a procedure sound much less complicated than it is. It reminds me of a joke a friend tells about home improvement books; the project is adding a second story to a house -- first step, "Remove roof and temporarily set aside." Not directly, but it's used to trigger timing of control circuitry.

Gee, that link looks amazingly familiar. Maybe that's because its the one I gave in post #4, above, in this thread.

It may not look like much, but on most unibody cars the radiator support is actually a structural member. One of the reasons it's welded is because that provides the necessary rigidity. Both crash-worthiness and body panel alignment can be compromised if the support isn't properly attached. Assuming damage that isn't too significant, a good shop can pull the support back to original shape/position so well that you won't be able to tell it was ever bent. Maybe you can find a shop that will allow you to strip things down to the point where they can deal with only the rad support, and you could then bolt on and otherwise finish the rest of the job.

Info on the WWP-99 campaign: http://www.snedcs.com/dcsmain/service/WWP_subnet2-5-04.htm

In my opinion, Haynes manuals fall somewhere between the two extremes expressed above. Common sense should always prevail -- if any procedure in a manual has you scratching your head, check it with another source, including here. We're not infallible (maybe I should speak only for myself ), but neither are those who write even the factory service manuals (there are errors, omissions, and unclear language in them as well).

There are two lines on the coolant reservoir. The proper level of coolant in the reservoir is between the two lines, when checked with the engine cool -- it should not be below the lower line. If it's near the lower line, it should be brought up to the upper line using a 50/50 coolant mixture, although water alone can be used temporarily if no coolant is available. (The upper line isn't the "full when hot" point -- there's plenty of room for coolant expansion beyond that level.) As I and others have said, the radiator itself needs to be checked to verify it's filled (when cold).

The fans (there are two) face the radiator, and are located right behind it as you look from the front of the car with the hood raised. When the engine is sufficiently warm at least one of them should be running, and if hot, both should be on. With air conditioning running, at least one should be on as well. Keep your hands away from the fans, as even if not turning they can come on unexpectedly. If you look through the front grill of the car, you'll see what looks like the radiator, but with air conditioning (A/C) it's actually the A/C condenser. Since it's "sandwiched" with the radiator, anything obstructing the condenser also obstructs the radiator. Insects or other debris that can restrict air flow can be gently brushed from the surface, or removed with water from a garden hose, etc.

Yes, if you see some coolant on the driveway, that would point to an obvious leak. However, sometimes the leak is slow, might happen while driving or parked elsewhere, etc., so that it might not be easily apparent. In order to possibly stem an external HG leak, and to perhaps qualify you for an extend warranty on the HGs and no-cost replacement by Subaru if needed, there should be Subaru Cooling System Conditioner added to the coolant.

Once the engine is warm (and certainly if it's hot), unheated air from the heater (even if it happens for just a few seconds) means there is no coolant in the heater core at that time. That should never happen if the cooling system is properly filled, so a lapse in heat output points to at least some air in the cooling system.

A 2000 Legacy should have a phase-2 EJ25, SOHC (single overhead cam) engine. While they can have HG problems, the leakage is typically external; they aren't prone to internal leakage, which is when exhaust gases force coolant out of the system, overflowing the recovery. Have you verified that the coolant isn't being lost via external HG leak? Does the cooling system have the Subaru Conditioner in it? The fact that an incident occured when the heater was run but no heat was produced implies that coolant wasn't in the heater core at the time, probably due to an air pocket. That can be caused by exhaust gases displacing coolant, but a system that has lost coolant otherwise and hasn't been refilled will have the same symptom. Rather than only adding water to the coolant reservoir, the radiator itself should be checked for proper level. Of course, allow the system to cool down before opening the cap, and replenish as needed with 50/50 mixture of coolant/water, not just water. Nipper's suggestion about the radiator cap is something to consider. In addition, has anyone verified that the radiator fans are running when they should be, and that the radiator isn't obstructed by dead insects, etc.?

You're welcome. By all means, don't ground random pins in connectors. Here's some Subaru-specific ABS diagnostic info: http://www.auto-diagnostic-codes.com/ABS-Brakes/Japanese-Korean/Subaru-ABS.html Click on "Use This Connector" for details in each case. See the attached diagram for pin identification of the 6-pin (usually black) diagnostic connector.

Decoding NGK's numbering system: http://www.ngk.com/sparkplug411_manufacturer.asp?manufacturerID=1

Look at http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ABS.pdf , and verify which system you have -- it's likely to be ABS-2E. The article has info on locating ABS diagnostic connectors.

Ethanol is more volatile than gas, absorbs moisture, and has certain solvent properties that gas doesn't. Gas with "only" 10% ethanol doesn't store as well as what you could get before reformulation. Even a "sealed" storage can has a vent, and especially with evaporation, expansion and contraction due to temperature changes will release the more-volatile parts and allow moisture in. If the can was made before ethanol was common in gas, it may be affected chemically by it. If gas previously stored in the can left gummy deposits, ethanol can dissolve them. Here's one biased but interesting source: http://www.starbrite.com/whatsnew/STAR%20BRITE%20ethanol%20p3072D2.pdf

Just in case... I suggest that you do a search here, or Google "Subaru loose oil pump screws" and read a few articles that come up there. You might find these interesting: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf See "Watch Those Pump Screws!". http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf

Piston slap certainly can happen, but more typically in colder weather. However, I wonder about the oil pump sealing. Loose screws?

It may well be more than one cylinder acting up, but of course not necessarily all four -- two would be plenty on a four cylinder engine. Getting the code(s) read could be helpful. (Typically AutoZone or Advance will do it for free.) Try to get the actual code(s) (Pxxxx), not just the code definition(s). Misfire codes are likely (P030x), but there may certainly be others. If cylinder pairs are having problems, knowing whether it's happening to a bank (#1 or #2) versus wasted spark pairs (#1 or #3) could help separate ignition from other problems. Naturally, if all four cylinders are throwing codes, that info could also be useful. When the MIL/CEL came on, was it steady, or did it flash? Were conditions warmer or wetter than usual when the problem occured? A general comment -- There seem to be more complaints of this type lately. Some people are blaming the gas supply, saying that under recent circumstances sources are less reliable and gas is of poorer quality. Even if true, I don't tend to believe that's a significant factor; rather, I suspect that due to the cost of filling up, some owners are allowing their gas tanks to get lower than usual. That can result in more condensation in the gas tank and pick-up of water and "crud" near the bottom of a tank.

Now I understand why some people claim to get nearly 40 "miles" per gallon with their Subaru.