OB99W

I'm not sure if the Liberty is identical to the Legacy, but... On the Legacy, the headlight relays don't control whether low or high beam is activated, so relay condition shouldn't be a factor in your case. Do the high beams activate ("flash") when the switch lever is pulled towards you? Does it get pulled back to the middle (low beam) position when the lever is released?

You could possibly determine the cause using the diagnostic connector and ground probes. However, without the factory service manual and proper procedure/precautions, it's possible to unintentionally set off the bags while trying to correct the problem. Since in your previous thread you indicated that the car is still under warranty, this is really a time to have the dealer take care of things. If you had a poor experience with one dealer, try another -- warranty service should be covered at any SoA authorized dealer, not just where you purchased the car.

As far as the car goes, it will probably be okay. As to the relationship, no comment.

Does it still hold the car when in Park? Can the trans selector be easily shifted out of Park to Reverse? Are there any new noises when in Reverse or forward gears?

Depends -- are we talking Subaru, or something else? In general, it might damage the parking pawl, or whatever the pawl is supposed to engage. Or, minor or no effect.

I brought up the topic of back-drive/engine-braking because I've noticed that those on the forum claiming better average gas mileage than I can get with my own '99 are often driving earlier '90s models. I began to wonder if there was a design difference that would explain it, and there might be. Back-drive is primarily determined by the existence/engagement (or lack thereof) of one way clutches (OWC). According to Subaru literature, engine braking operation is different with Phase-1 and Phase-2 4EAT transmissions -- the Phase-2 design eliminated OWC 3-4. I developed the following engine braking (during coasting) info based on: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EAT.pdf http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/02Winter4EATTransOp.pdf Transmission ranges below are in the form (Selector Position) / (Engaged Gear). Examples: "D/3" = Selector in Drive position, transmission actually in 3rd gear "3/2" = Selector in 3rd position, transmission actually in 2nd gear Phase-1 4EAT (pre-1999) operation: D/4--------------- Engine braking D/3 or 3/3-------- No engine braking D/2, 3/2 or 2/2---- No engine braking D/1 or 3/1-------- No engine braking 2/1 or 1/1--------- Engine braking Phase-2 4EAT (1999 and later) operation: D/4--------------- Engine braking D/3 or 3/3-------- Engine braking D/2, 3/2 or 2/2---- Engine braking D/1 or 3/1-------- No engine braking 1/1---------------- Engine braking (Note that if you want engine braking in 1st, select "2" or "1" on a Phase-1, or "1" on a Phase-2 -- is that confusing enough? ) So, it could be that gas mileage variation from model year to model year on cars with automatics has something to do with the trans design. The Phase-1 4EAT might coast more freely in most gears.

Thanks for the links. I think they help make the point that engine management significantly closes down the injectors during coasting. So (for example), upon seeing a light turn red, as long as taking your foot off the throttle allowed you to reach the light (hopefully without slowing too much and annoying the drivers following you), you'd in theory use less gas than if you shifted to neutral.

Once the gasket is initially seated there's an advantage to using "fractions of a turn" -- it actually results in a more predictable clamping force, by removing bolt head and thread friction factors to a great degree. It's the reason most spin-on oil filters and some spark plugs are often best installed by turning until the gasket just touches, followed by a specified additional twist.

This thread is getting more interesting. I'm going to play "devil's advocate", and pose some hopefully thought-provoking (and not flame-war-starting) questions. What is engine braking? If an auto trans with no rear pump can't back-drive the engine, can there be engine braking on a car so equipped? Is torque converter operation a factor in this? If coasting downhill with an auto trans in "neutral" resulted in considerable speed, how (if at all) would a 4EAT or 5EAT be affected if shifted back into "drive"? How does engine braking convert energy to heat? If it does so by compressing air, where does that air come from? If the throttle is closed, how does air to be compressed get to the cylinders? (Is the "closed" throttle really closed?) Are the "on" portions of fuel injector cycles the same when coasting as at idle? If lessened, by about what degree with a manual versus with an auto trans?

Welcome to the forum, jcarey. When the outside air is very warm, unless the inside air is recirculated there will tend to be a noticable change in outlet temperature as the A/C cycles. (It's also possible there's a fault causing the A/C to cut out prematurely.) EDIT: In places where the interior of the car is "oven-like" after it's been parked with windows closed, you should probably start with the A/C drawing fresh air in to more rapidly vent the very hot interior air. Then the recirculation mode can be chosen for better efficiency. Periodically switch back to fresh (exterior) air to clear the cabin.

It may not be all that "weird". In the process of working on things, it's possible to disturb connections, etc. For example, if something isn't making good contact due to corrosion, even slightly moving the wiring/connector might "fix" it for a while. Next time it's acting up at idle, try tapping on the MAF and wiggling the wiring to it, and see if there are any changes. If the MAF is contaminated, it can often be cleaned (carefully -- they're fragile). The following links have good info.http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic110034.htm http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EWMAFAug05.pdf

It wouldn't surprise me if it said to remove them in that order, either. :-\ Here's someplace you don't want to go to for answers: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_the_camshaft_position_sensor_on_a_96_Subaru_Legacy_2.2_Liter_V4_engine

For any of you who care about it, keep in mind that out-of-gear coasting isn't legal in lots of places. http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?p=115724

Is it only the ABS light that comes on, or does the brake warning light also illuminate?

Did you read the two articles about MAFs that I provided links to? They include some pretty good info. Is there a particular reason that you aren't trying to clean the MAF before considering replacing it?

It doesn't take much buildup on the MAF wires to cause a problem. As I mentioned previously, misfiring is typical when the mixture is lean, which is what a dirty MAF will cause. See the following MAF info:http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic110034.htm http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EWMAFAug05.pdf Deposits can cause fouling misfire. Ignition wires can go up in resistance (as can the resistor inside a plug). The spark can take a path other than across the plug gap, due to damaged insulation, etc. Here's how to read spark plugs: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqread2.asp Here's info on ignition/misfire: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/IgnitionCoil.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DirectIgnition.pdf There are errors in the "DirectIgnition.pdf" info. In the "Ignition Coil Testing" section, the terminal numbers listed are reversed between the primary and secondary; however, the diagram is labeled correctly. The correct numbering relative to expected resistance is in "IgnitionCoil.pdf"; you can use the diagram from "DirectIgnition.pdf" to identify the terminal numbers. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/IgnitionCoilSum04.pdf http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic30332.htm http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic90140.htm

Head gaskets, unlike ones for other purposes that are made of rubber, cork, etc., aren't very resilient. As long as you properly retightened the bolts afterwards, that should be sufficient.

A hot-wire type MAF can usually be successfully cleaned (less likely with the later thin-film type), but it needs to be done carefully. Misfire is usually more typical with a lean mixture than a rich one. It's possible that there's a marginal ignition problem (plugs, coil, wires) with cylinders #1 and #2 (they're wasted-spark paired), making them more susceptible to mixture or other issues than #3 and #4. If nothing else, I'd suggest making sure the #1 and #2 ignition wires are tightly in place at the coil and plugs.

Subaru keeps changing the recommended method. I'm not certain which is the latest. Hopefully, someone else will chime in. Okay, I just searched the forum, and found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79989 Here's another variation, which is likely older, from http://www.automotivemachine.com/tech.htm : "On some models, mostly 2002-2005 2.5L DOHC engines, Subaru has had problems with head gasket sealing. The factory has revised the tightening procedure several times... this seems to be the latest version: Make sure the threads in the block are clean and free of oil or coolant. Clean the bolt threads and place a drop of motor oil on the threads, and on both sides of the washers. Install the bolts with washers and tighten them in four steps. First, torque in proper sequence to 22 ft lbs, then 51 ft lbs. Next loosen the bolts, in the reverse order of the tightening sequence, 180 degrees, then another 180 degrees in reverse sequence. Torque all six bolts in sequence to 29 ft lbs. Tighten all addition 90 degrees of rotation. Lastly, turn only bolts 1 and 2 another 45 degrees."

You're welcome. In suggesting looking at the wiring, I was thinking of the fuel gauge issue more so than the pump. If someone else can turn the key, you could listen for injector operation. A stethoscope or even a piece of dowel should be enough to hear them clicking. (Yes, I've used a long screwdriver, but...) I was initially considering low fuel myself, -- after all, that would explain the gauge reading, etc. -- but thought the two gallons you had added would minimize that possibility. Given current gas prices, theft (assuming access was available) isn't that remote a possibility, unfortunately.

The info I have has the below following step six: Tighten all bolts again in sequence an additional 80° to 90°. The total re-tightening angle should not exceed 180° total.

You're welcome, I'm glad you got it running. Too bad the 2.5 is doing what they tend to do.

If you havent done so already, Skip, I'd look at the wiring at the rear, under the access plates. Next, I'd determine if there's fuel pressure at the rails. If that's okay, I'd check whether the injectors are being pulsed.

Heads might need machining even if straight, because gaskets needs a proper surface finish. The block should be checked as well. Of course, any cuts should be as light as possible.

General cooling system info (not Subaru-specific), including radiator tank replacement: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/081999_11.pdf I don't know the availability of such repairs in Europe.