OB99W

If you applied 12 volts directly (and correctly!) to the fan connectors, and nothing happened, it certainly would seem that the fans themselves are bad. So, to which color wires, and with what polarity, did you make the connections?

Just in case there's some confusion over what's what under the dash, see http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ReadingECUCodes . Make sure the connectors shown in Figure 1 are not coupled together.

A picture could certainly help, but less than 1,000 words might do in its place. Some Q's: 1) Can we assume the other three plugs look "normal"? 2) Are the "speckles" hard (ceramic-like) and well-adhered, or soft and easily removed? 3) Are they rough (matte) or smooth (glossy) in appearance? ...and lastly... 4) Do you think I'll know what they are if you answer 1 through 3?

The flashing CEL, cycling fans, and those conflicting codes point to the ECU being in test diagnostic mode (as I've mentioned before in this thread, starting with post #4). If you've already looked under the dash, and the green test connectors aren't coupled, then I suppose there could be a weird short effectively doing the same thing. (I'm holding off on using the "beating a dead horse" smilie. )

Checking for power to the coil is a good place to begin. Also, look for switching -- if it's not happening, it could be the igniter, but there are other possibilities. See the links below (especially the second one) for info on troubleshooting "no start". There is a main relay. ECU failures occur, but they're rare. By the way, have you verified that there's fuel pressure? http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/IgnitionCoil.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DirectIgnition.pdf There are errors in the "DirectIgnition.pdf" info. In the "Ignition Coil Testing" section, the terminal numbers listed are reversed between the primary and secondary; however, the diagram is labeled correctly. The correct numbering relative to expected resistance is in "IgnitionCoil.pdf"; you can use the diagram from "DirectIgnition.pdf" to identify the terminal numbers.

By the way, even if you tried a new headlamp, don't assume if it didn't work that the problem has to be elsewhere. I've seen new lamps with open filaments.

Welcome to the forum. Judging by "The bulb lights up and nothing sparked, exploded, or melted, so I think I'm good to go.", I'd say hawksoob solved the problem. Let's see if we can narrow down the possible causes of your inoperative passenger-side high beam. Since the low beam works, that eliminates the fuse and headlight relay for that side. Assuming the driver's side high beam works, the light switch can't be causing the problem. That leaves either wiring/connections or the high-beam filament in the headlamp itself is open. Do you have a 12 volt test lamp or a volt-ohmmeter to check things?

You're welcome. I hoped some would find it useful (without it being too controversial ).

There should be a small v-notch at the rear edge. If the rust isn't too bad, there may be some remnant of a daub of white paint on the notch. It's sometimes easier to find with an inspection (dental) mirror.

Yes, those things, and poorer mileage in winter due to thickened lubricants, inefficiencies until the engine and drivetrain are warmed, driving conditions, reformulated gas, etc. I suspect that some of the folks posting great gas mileage aren't giving an average that includes (for example) winter driving -- I know that my mileage can drop as low as 16 MPG when it's very cold and I'm just doing short trips. Obviously, if you don't factor times like that in, the numbers look a lot better.

When the cam marks are aligned, where is the crank (pulley) timing pointing to? You said it was cranking, but not firing. Is there spark?

If you think so, you can go to the info for your year/make/model on the website, click on 'Compare to Official EPA Window Sticker MPG', and see what others are reporting. If you think your own mileage is significantly different, or nobody has provided personal data, you can click on 'Learn more about "Your MPG" ', register, and provide alternative information.

Just curious -- what percentage of your travel is city (stop-and-go) and/or hilly as opposed to highway (cruising) and flat? You do realize that's not even half a gallon's worth?

The topic of gas mileage is a common one here, and people often question why they're not getting what the window sticker listed for EPA City/Hwy. Part of the "problem" may have to do with lack of maintenance (low tire pressure, need for tune-up, sticking brakes, etc.), and perhaps an "aggressive" driving style. However, another issue might be the result of the EPA having been a bit unrealistic in its estimation of what mileage the average person was likely to get. You can find what the government now thinks your City/Hwy mileage should be at http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/findacar.htm . For example, my '99 Legacy OB (2.5L DOHC) was originally EPA-rated 21/26 MPG. The latest figures at the website I linked to are 18/24. My average gas mileage for mixed driving in reasonable weather is about 21, the middle of the EPA's range, so (at least for me ) it appears the newer figures are closer to reality.

Phase-1 2.5 DOHC, tendency to internal HG leaks and piston slap. Phase-2 2.5 SOHC, tendency to external HG leaks, usually less of a concern. Phase-2 first used model years: Impreza RS and Forester '99 Outback (including Impreza OS) '00

What if the previous owner had the t-belt break, coupled the diagnostic connectors in trying to figure things out, and left them that way? That might explain the weirdness.

Hopefully, the attached partial diagram covers your model, and will do the trick. Please verify it agrees with your car before rewiring. Also, be certain not to exceed the current limitations of the switch or its wiring; if there's any question, a relay may be needed. (EDIT: I see while I was preparing the diagram for uploading, aircraft engineer already made the point about the relay.) Diagram notes: Fuse #23 is hot all the time. The red/blk wire at the bottom of the diagram (not to be confused with the blk/red one) goes to a 10 amp fuse labeled #5, the other end of which feeds the front and tail (parking) lights.

First I want to know if it involves turning fuel injectors on/off.

Unfortunately, the engine suddenly quitting could be caused by a broken or jumped timing belt. Once you check for coupled diagnostic connectors, I'd clear the ECU memory. You could try to start again, and see what codes get generated, but it might just be time to pull covers and get a peek at the timing.

Well, you beat me to the corrections, but I'll post them anyway, along with my comment. Here are the P1xxx definitions: P1100 Starter switch circuit low input P1101 Neutral position switch circuit high input P1120 Starter switch circuit high input P1121 Neutral position switch circuit low input P1540 VSS 2 malfunction Note that P1100 & P1120 conflict, as do P1101 and P1121. Seems like along with the fans going on and off, you're in a diagnostic mode.

The code definitions you've posted aren't all correct. Interestingly, some of them conflict with each other -- I'll post the right definitions shortly. However, before we go any further, have you verified that the under-dash diagnostic connectors aren't coupled together?

Yes, on '97 and later 2.2 engines the piston crown was modified to increase the compression to 9.7:1, causing interference; with the original ('95) pistons, that's not an issue. Dual versus single exhaust ports, however, is another matter! Has the mechanic actually reinstalled the engine?

Congratulations. P0778 issues are open or short circuits in the wiring/connectors/solenoid, or (rarely) a TCU-related failure. The cause can usually be located by visual inspection and/or use of a volt-ohmmeter.

Do keep us posted on how that works out for you.

Which is why, unfortunately, I had to say "many" and not "all".