OB99W

True. The FSM approach to troubleshooting by substitution is fine, up to a point. Unfortunately, having a bunch of spare TCUs (ECUs, etc.) around isn't very practical for many of us; I tend to do exhaustive process of elimination testing (visual, voltage, resistance, ...) before coming to the conclusion that the control electronics is at fault.

The circuit draws little current, so any spare fuse in the car that fits the holder can be used.

TCU problems causing bind are rare (less rare is a bad connection to it), but obviously can exist. Thanks for getting back with the outcome and fix.

That raises the question: "Will a person who doesn't understand or remember the reason to install the FWD fuse then call a towing service that will flat-bed or otherwise protect an AWD car?"

Your perseverance has apparently paid off. Congrats.

No, I suggested that you deal with the cause of the P0106 first -- that isn't the same as saying that the MAP sensor is causing all your problems. I provided the link to a thread that talked about vacuum hose issues causing the code (not the MAP sensor itself), and certainly replacing the sensor three times without improvement would seem to verify that isn't the cause. I'd again suggest that you determine the vacuum hoses are properly connected, intact, and not restricted -- that goes in particular for the MAP sensor and the fuel pressure regulator, but look elsewhere as well. Low vacuum, or the MAP reporting that incorrectly, will cause the ECU to enrich the mixture. TPS problems, especially if the ECU senses that the throttle position and MAP sensor output don't seem to agree, can also sometimes trigger P0106.

It's my understanding that the dipstick notch represents the "maximum full" level -- that is, normally the oil level shouldn't exceed that point. Assuming the cold level was at "F", the notch could be reached if the level is checked hot (after allowing time for drainback), since heated oil expands somewhat and flows more readily.

I'd start with the P0106. The following thread shows where the sensor is located, and talks about how vacuum hose problems can lead to the code.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84813 I can't be certain, since I'm not sure if some of the " - " in your post are dashes or negative signs. Assuming I'm reading it right, the large negative percentages for "bank 3" short term (-29%) and long term (-21%) fuel trims indicate the ECU is trying to lean down a rich condition (by narrowing the injector pulse). Make sure that the vacuum hose(s) connected to the fuel pressure regulator (also covered in the above-linked thread) are okay. Excessive fuel pressure or leaky injectors can cause similar symptoms.

The last thing I remember reading about your '98 OB 2.5 was that the HGs needed replacement. Has something changed, or is the 2.2 deal too good to pass up? Keep in mind that while the '98 2.2 is less prone to HG problems, it's of course not as powerful as the 2.5, and is of interference design like the 2.5.

Yes, that is indeed what "live"/real-time data capture is all about.

I'm assuming you're referring to "fuel trim". That's the way the ECU compensates for a rich or lean condition, by changing the injector pulse width (how long the injectors are open). The short term trim is quite immediate. Long term trims are developed and stored based on what the ECU has "learned" about the short term changes. How about telling us of any codes, and what the LTFT and STFT readings are? Make sure you include any (+) or (-) signs.

Just an observation -- we seem to be reviving rather old threads (this one is over four years old).

Welcome to the forum. The term "hesitation" is usually applied to something that happens while accelerating, not at idle speed. Are you saying that the engine speed intermittently drops when idling? If so, does it do that in gear, out of gear, or both? What's the idle RPM, both when the problem shows and when it doesn't?

Right, no Scooby SCUBA.

A DOJ is a Double Offset Joint.

In my experience, intermittent vibrations tend to be caused by things that are loose/worn, while those that occur more consistently are typically due to imbalance/warpage. (To head off tales of the opposite having happened, please note the words "tend" and "typically" -- that means I recognize this isn't always the case. )

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ad_hominem_attack There are enough nasty things that happen in the world -- USMB has been a "refuge" that I've thought of as relatively free of nastiness. Can we please return to discussion (or debate) minus abusive remarks?

This should work:Clearance volume = cylinder displacement / (compression ratio - 1) There's a flaw in your logic. Let's assume that the injested water somewhat exceeds the combustion chamber volume. I assume you'd concede that can't be compressed? Well, vaporizing the water just means you've spread its molecules out. Unless they escape the cylinder before compression, the compressive force recondenses them (or tries to), and you're right back to an incompressible state.

Even if the brakes are working effectively, I wouldn't define ones that squeak/squeal as "fine". When were the brakes last worked on (mileage)? What was done? Were OEM parts used? Does the noise change with brake pedal pressure?

BG product descriptions can be found here:http://www.haisleymachine.com/BG%20PRODUCTS.htm Can you determine which one your friend is referring to? The conditioner that Subaru uses appears to be Holts Radweld, and is definitely meant to deal with possible external leaks on phase-2 2.5 engines. "Conditioner" is a vague term. The internal HG leaks that develop in phase-1 2.5 engines aren't going to be easily stopped by a sealant. If the coolant is replaced on a regular basis, the need for additional anti-corrosives, etc., is also questionable. I wouldn't argue with success. If your friend's car has been doing well without any "conditioner", why start now? If it's been used in the car previously with sucess, ...

You should probably take the car out for a test drive yourself to determine if there are any drivability issues. I'd suggest paying attention in particular to whether there are any harsh shifts or throttle response issues. TPS problems (misadjusted/defective) can cause binding, along with what I just mentioned, but appear to be due to a defect within the trans. The 16 flashes indicate a code for an electrically-related trouble is stored. Shawn has provided the way to retrieve it. Once you have the code it should be a lot easier to determine the next step.

Perhaps my post (last in the thread) will help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81573

What kit are you referring to?

You're welcome -- here's hoping that all of your future Subaru "concerns" will be as easily resolved.

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