OB99W

The AutoZone Duralast rotors seem okay. About six months ago I said this:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=624688 My brother is still happy with the results.

All well and good if the belt is marked and the lines on it match at cams and crank. However, I have been addressing what lostinthe202 said ("For good measure I counted the teeth as mentioned in the endwrench article and the left side came out to the number, but the right side seemed to be a tooth off." and "I did get an OEM belt and thus a bit disappointed that the marks/teeth didn't add up."). I'm dropping out of this thread now, since the current discussion is actually OT with respect to the original topic, and I seem to be anyway.

Of course the belt teeth can only engage the sprockets at "full tooth" intervals. However, that doesn't prevent the belt from being installed improperly if the sprocket marks aren't "eyeballed" correctly; that's one reason the tooth count is given. In addition, excessive play in the upper idlers/tensioner can also allow for a partial-tooth error in count versus that in the EndWrench info, possibly revealing those problems. Yes, in the end proper timing is what's important. However, if all is right the lines on the belt should match with the sprockets, and there shouldn't be a full-tooth count discrepancy with that in the EndWrench article. They rarely line up "perfectly", but any substantial error would concern me.

Whatever that means -- usually it happens if the charging voltage is excessive, but your tests don't seem to indicate that. Perhaps the high ambient temps in TX played a role. Sulfation tends to happen more readily to car batteries that are allowed to remain partially discharged for too long, or are deeply discharged too often (it doesn't take much; batteries for automotive service aren't typically "deep cycle" type). Since you previously mentioned that electrolyte was covering all of the plates, low capacity would likely be explained more readily by sulfation than that "the battery boiled out its acid". Sulfation causes the plates to have an effectively insulating layer deposited on them, and to have less-concentrated electrolyte, both of which lower capacity. As I posted earlier, based on the results of your testing I don't suspect the alternator. If the battery reserve capacity was very low, it's certainly true that even a small load could easily deplete it. Yes, it's also possible that a certain amount of plate material had been dislodged, forming a somewhat conductive sludge at the bottom of the cells that could add to the self-discharge that occurs even with "healthy" lead-acid batteries; elevated temps increase self-discharge, BTW. Things that kill car batteries: 1) Under-/over-charging 2) High temps 3) Vibration 4) Not maintaining electrolyte level

Although track racing with ATs is done, they seem to have more application in street racing (which I'm not condoning, BTW). Sometimes just using a high-stall torque converter (that allows launches with the engine RPMs at a level where the torque is more optimal) can be enough to win a race.

Given a properly-manufactured timing belt (one would expect an OEM one to be that), the tooth count should be what the EndWrench article indicates. Manufacturing tolerances could account for up to a half-tooth discrepancy, but any more than that means the belt was put on wrong. As an example, let's say the count is off by nearly one full tooth -- call it 3/4 of one. By remounting the belt, you could be off by only 1/4 tooth (but in the direction opposite that of previously), reducing the error by 1/2 tooth. Under any circumstance, it's vital that the cam and crank sprocket marks are simultaneously aligned correctly, whether or not they agree with marks on the belt. Being sufficiently off on interference engines can be destructive, but being somewhat off on even non-interference engines will affect performance.

Based on the output voltage you've measured under various load conditions, I'm not inclined to suspect the alternator. If you have access to a scope and want to check ripple, make note of both the amplitude and any irregularity in the waveform. While it's true that the initial charge current should be high if the battery is sufficiently discharged, excessive series resistance can prevent that. Such resistance can be due to either corrosion at the battery cable clamps (which you've apparently already addressed), or problems internal to the battery itself. Yes, I'd agree with that assessment. That's good, but of course just indicates the battery hasn't been abused in that manner. Since being able to see the level usually means the battery has removable cell caps, testing electrolyte specific gravity can provide very useful info. As you previously mentioned, using an ammeter to test actual current draw to detect a possible parasitic load problem is the way to go; anything over a few tens of milliamps is excessive. Of course, any parasitic load could be intermittent in nature...

While the shift lag can be annoying, as already noted, it may be normal (depending on severity). However, the engine speed flare might be more of a concern. By how many rpm does it increase? The 4EATs (like many other automatics) are sensitive to fluid level, and as Nipper pointed out, aeration can be a problem. Dropping the level so that when fully warmed it isn't overfilled is a good idea, although this won't necessarily resolve what you're describing.

Assuming the IACV/ISV is the problem, it can get fairly "gunked" and the solvent needs to work at it. Don't be too stingy with the cleaners. It's rare that the valve has to be removed in order to clean it sufficiently, as long as you let cleaners work before being sucked into the engine. Did you read the info in the link I provided? The idea is to spray, let it sit a few minutes, then spray again. Use the throttle as necessary to prevent stalling. If it does stall, that's a good time to let the solvent work; it should restart without problem after a short time, and you can then spray again to remove what's been loosened. If the valve is dirty enough, you may have to repeat the procedure.

Or, you could close off the intake nipple with a piece of tape or other method (just don't use anything that could get sucked in ), and eliminate the "false air" that way. You'd still have to add the cleaner slowly, or modulate the throttle, to prevent stalling. Here's Subaru's approach in an EndWrench write-up: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf Both n/a and turbo are covered in the article.

True, but my comments were based on your statement that ' IF the vac hose collapses, it doesn't "matter" '. Okay... to simplify the math, let's call atmospheric pressure 30 inHg. That means a gauge reading of 22 is equivalent to 8 inHg absolute (30 minus 22). Throttle opening and closing, especially if rapid, can cause gauge measurement as low as "0" or as high as about 26; the equivalent absolute would be about 30 to 4 inHg. Anything that prevents or delays the engine management system "seeing" the variations (other than intentional restrictions, "orifices") can lead to poor drivability. Agreed, that's a bad idea. I've seen it done, and cause strange symptoms. The car would run okay when cold and even during warmup, but problems developed when the engine was hot enough. If allowed to cool down, it ran fine again. The difficulty was due to softening of the vinyl hose and vacuum collapsing it. When the engine was shut down, the lack of vacuum allowed the hose to regain its shape, and cooling stiffened it until the next run. It was a short piece, and apparently whoever used it thought there wouldn't be a problem; naturally, it was "buried" beneath the intake plumbing, making it hard to spot. "Fun" .

Gee, only nearly double the spec.

One more: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/howto/htvr13.htm

That puts this in a completely different light. Aside from the issues of safety and reliability, there are possible problems with registration and insurance. Is the title "salvage", or is it actually "revived salvage"? In addition, unless you can verify the "girlfriend's leg" story, you might be buying from a curbstoner. Here's the situation concerning insurance and registration in CA: http://www.carinsurance.com/kb/content17322.aspx http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr33.htm Here's further advice on buying cars with "salvage" titles: http://www.edmunds.com/advice/buying/articles/46537/article.html http://usedcars.about.com/od/researchingausedcar/p/Salvage.htm

Agreed, drive the extra distance. True, you won't have to consider the issues a cold auto trans can have, but that doesn't mean a manual can't be balky when cold. Perhaps more importantly, just because an engine is fuel injected doesn't mean it can't have cold-start/run problems. However, there's also the other side of the coin -- make sure you run it enough for it to get fully warm, since of course certain problems may only show up then. Best of luck. I hope you wind up with a good one, or at least find any problems before the purchase.

I'd suggest checking both the diff and trans fluid levels. If there's a bad seal, there may be some ATF getting into the diff. That could raise the level in it and make aeration more likely.

It looks rough to me, too, if the photo isn't misleading. Whether that's a problem might be dependent on the head gasket being used; multi-layer steel type usually requires a fairly low average surface roughness (Ra). I found some links that have good general info on the topic, although not all of it is relevant to Subarus: http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar996.htm http://www.aa1car.com/library/ic697.htm http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=572

A little respect for "vacuum", please. Under many circumstances, it certainly can matter if a vacuum hose collapses. If the collapse were total, the device connected beyond it (sensor, actuator, etc.) would no longer "see" the "vacuum", or more specifically, any changes in it. If the collapse were partial, change would be seen, but the response time would be slowed (to what degree would depend on just how narrowed the opening was). Furthermore, "vacuum" is sometimes intentionally bled off in certain devices, and if the source hose is blocked, would not be replenished at the expected rate. Although it's the term that's commonly used, of course the "vacuum" in those hoses is just air at pressure lower than atmospheric; it's not anywhere near a true (absolute) vacuum. What the hoses carry is that lowered pressure, and depending on what it's routed to, the actual measure is information that may be important to the function of a system.

By the way, if you're working outdoors and it's particularly cold, it may take some time to "convince" the refrigerant to transfer from the cylinder to the system.

As Skip points out, the clutch may not be able to be energized due to the switch being open because the system pressure is too low. If there hasn't been any refrigerant in the system, and especially if it's been open to atmosphere, there is likely moisture that will have to be removed (via a vacuum pump) before charging can be done. In addition, the desiccant may be saturated, in which case the receiver-dryer should be replaced. Any significant leaks may show up while the system is under vacuum, and refrigerant leak testing can be done without a full charge. The links below may be useful, although the system might need professional attention. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ACTheory.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ACMechanism.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Service07MayEW.pdf http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/82/ http://www.autoacrepairs.com/gauge_reading_and_diagnosis.htm

Misfire codes (P0303 in your case) are set when the ECU detects that the engine slows slightly as a particular cylinder fires, because that cylinder isn't producing full power. While ignition problems are often the cause, they certainly aren't the only possibility. So yes, change the plugs, and do a compression check while they're out. If getting platinum plugs, be sure to buy the "double" type.

Can I assume that rather than tacking on weights, you remove material diametrically opposite the point(s) the balancer indicates?

Yes, that's the risk of ignoring the flashing -- thinking it's only due to a trouble/code you already know about. Unfortunately, the TPS is more likely to be worn (think of the number of times the accelerator pedal has been pressed) than just that the contacts are dirty. But do make sure that there's no corrosion at the connector. By the way, "Excelsior, you fathead!", indeed! I just had to smile, thinking of Shep. For those of you too young or otherwise unaware: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean_Shepherd This is somewhat on-topic; Shep was, among other things, a bit of a "car guy".

The "100+ mpg" PICC isn't available yet; this may prove to give new meaning to "vaporware". Another write-up: http://www.savegasdiesel.com/hydro-assist-fuel-cell.htm For the sake of argument, let's assume that the HAFC could actually deliver 50% increase in gas mileage. If you travel 10,000 miles per year, and are getting 20 mpg, a 50% increase would raise that to 30 mpg. At $3 per gallon, 10k miles would cost $1500 in gas at 20 mpg, and $1000 at 30 mpg. That would theoretically yield a savings of $500 per year... ...but then you'd have to subtract the cost of the "conditioner" plus xylene and acetone, another $125 for treating 320 gals (close enough to the 333 gals used per year at 30 mpg). That reduces annual savings to $375 in my example. However, the HAFC costs about $1000, and to get the guaranteed results has to be installed by a licensed mechanic, and "tuned". To make the math easy, let's say the charge for that work is only $125, for a total outlay of $1125. "Saving" $375 per year, it would take three years to break even on a cost of $1125. So, in my example, only after three years would you actually begin to see any financial benefit -- if the device actually worked, and lasted that long.

Agreed. Given that the engine was previously okay, it's unlikely that sitting in an unusual position would cause damage. If nothing else, piston rings have a small end gap that typically almost closes when the engine is warm. With a cold engine, a couple of weeks is enough time for the oil to find its way through small gaps. Yes, do check the bore for scuffing/scoring and taper, but it wouldn't be surprising if nothing significant is found.