OB99W

Welcome to the forum. The 16 flashes don't indicate a specific fault, but only that the trans has an electrically-related problem. You have to retrieve the actual trouble code from the TCU. Rather than explain how, I'll try to find a link to a recent thread here that covered doing that, and I'll post it.

Here's how to decipher the rest of the part numbers: http://www.ngk.com/images/NGKsparkplugNum.gif

Gee, Subarus with "initial build" problems, and dealers who won't address them -- what a surprise!

Ummm, they work and keep working for a decent time/mileage. It's not that aftermarket wires couldn't do the job, it's that many aren't reliable. Due to the wasted-spark configuration, the spark polarity is reversed on two of the plugs; if you're not going to get original NGKs, at least make sure you use double-platinum plugs.

I can say with certainty that on the MY '99 Legacy, pin #6 of connector B82 is for diagnosis of the ABS system (been there, done that ). Also, pin #4 and pin #5 positions aren't populated on the '99 (only 1, 2, 3 and 6 are there). The FSM states (and the wiring diagram shows) that #1 and #2 are for airbag (SRS) diagnosis, at least on the '99. The Mitchell info may be correct for earlier models.

Removing combustion chamber carbon with water is indeed an old technique. It does work, up to a point, but isn't without risks. As has already been mentioned, introduce the water at a reasonable pace. Keep the engine revs up to prevent stalling and to minimize the chance that a chunk of carbon will lodge in a plug gap or exhaust valve. Plugs, only if an ignition misfire develops and doesn't clear. Oil may or may not become sufficiently contaminated for concern, but I'd be inclined to err on the conservative side and change it. If a one-time treatment doesn't do the trick, perhaps a water-injection system might help with knock while continuing the cleaning process. While not specific to Subarus, the following might be of interest: http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73236 http://www.rallycars.com/Cars/WaterInjection.html http://www.hackaday.com/2005/06/25/home-built-water-injection/ http://users.frii.com/maphill/wi.html http://supersoda.com/detail.php?id=00000000075

That may indeed be the main difficulty, because a change in lift should also somewhat change valve timing, all other things being equal (that is, assuming a lower cam profile, but it and the follower's shape otherwise unchanged, etc.). Under those conditions, if lift is reduced, a valve will open later and close earlier; if lift is increased, the valve will open earlier and close later. (HLAs might be able to take up some of the slack.) Yeah, this is becoming an academic discussion. In the end, finding and fixing the problem is really what matters.

I'm a bit surprised that leak-down testing with a degree wheel on the camshaft didn't confirm a problem, considering how different the cam profiles apparently were... ...but it's great that the tear-down proved your theory of what was causing the problem! Thanks for sharing the info.

Get it wherever you can -- my point was that the adapter failure isn't that uncommon. Yes, "soobie speedo setups are a little problematic", as are some other parts. Where would this forum be if they weren't?

I see...Could you please provide a couple of specific examples where David Suzuki used invalid data in the transition from hypothesis to conclusion?

For some perspective on that, see these threads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80376 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80188

I looked at your other threads, and think I have this right -- You bought the '96 Brighton in March '07 with about 89k miles on it. It was previously owned by someone who didn't maintain it particularly well. Assuming that's correct, I can think of a few possibilities. The first thing I would do is make sure that the PCV is working correctly; that is, valve clean/operating, tubes clean. A malfunctioning PCV can cause oil loss in more than one way. Clean the tubes, and replace the valve (it's inexpensive) if there's any question. Next, is the oil consumption internal, external, or a combination of both? If all internal, a quart in 4,000 miles is somewhat excessive for a Subaru engine in good shape, but perhaps the previous owner didn't do oil changes at reasonable intervals and there's some wear. (However, I believe you said that you're getting 30 mpg, which usually indicates that the engine is in reasonable condition.) Do you see any smoke at the tailpipe, under any circumstances? It doesn't take much external leakage to lose a quart of oil in 4,000 miles, so if there's a sign of an external leak, that might explain things.

It apparently lists for $17.95; some Google searching turned up the following: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis58430.html http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=7270 http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=29316 Obviously, any shipping charges would be additional.

Lisle Corp makes various pullers, some of which are sold by Sears. I don't have one of these myself, but it looks interesting: http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1438

Given that the coil and plugs were already replaced (and assuming that the coil pack was new, or used but known to be good), it would probably be prudent to consider replacing the wires, especially if they haven't been changed in many thousands of miles. Another possibility is a failing igniter (or even the ECU ), but that's much less common than the ignition wires. I wouldn't drive it any more than necessary -- the shop you took it to may not have the best diagnostician, but they're right that enough misfiring could put the catalytic converter at risk.

Nobody told me I was supposed to "punch in" and "punch out" of the forum.

When misfire in cylinders #3 and #4 suddenly develops simultaneously, its cause is likely to be ignition-related. However, the coil for those two cylinders isn't the only thing they have in common. The ignition system is a "wasted spark" type, which effectively puts plugs and wires for opposing cylinders in series. That means that when # 3 is firing, the spark current still has to travel through #4's plug and wire, and vice-versa. Therefore, an increase in wire or plug resistance at either #3 or #4 can affect the firing of both cylinders. When were the plugs or ignition wires last replaced? If either wasn't done recently, consider replacing one or both. As porcupine73 mentioned, NGK plugs and OEM (Subaru) ignition wires are good choices. (In fact, even if the wires were changed recently, but OEM ones weren't used, they may still be the cause of the problem.) If you'll be doing the work yourself, I'd suggest starting with the wires, since they're relatively easy to replace.

Before you consider replacing the contacts, have you verified that there isn't excessive resistance at the battery cable ends, or some other problem that's reducing the voltage to the starter? Corrosion can cause the symptoms you're describing, as can a failing battery. Unless you've done it recently, I'd suggest you remove and clean at least the terminals at the battery, using a wire-brush tool, and examine the connections at the starter and ground. If you have a voltmeter, after reconnecting the battery make sure its voltage doesn't drop excessively when the starter is engaged; unless the battery is cold, anything significantly less than about 10 volts during cranking should be investigated further.

I rest my case.

Wow, this is getting confusing. Standing at the front of the car, looking down at the engine, the odd numbered cylinders are on the left (passenger's) side, the even on the right (driver's) side, lower-numbered nearest you: 3 4 1 2

Your description could indicate a resistive connection that improves as current flows through it, finally passing enough current to do the job. If you're not hearing even a single click, it would appear that the starter solenoid isn't getting energized. I'd begin by verifying that the connection to the solenoid is good (not corroded). You could then check for voltage at the solenoid connection by wiring a 12 volt test lamp from that point to ground; if the lamp doesn't light, trace back from there to the ignition switch. If the lamp lights, the solenoid itself is suspect. However, if the solenoid is heard to energize (click) when the key is turned, then worn starter contacts previously mentioned are a possible cause.

There are several things that could cause the no-start condition you've described. In a year-plus, the more-volatile fractions of gas can evaporate, and the gas can become gummy and hard to ignite. It would take a while for the fresh gas you added to make its way to the engine. If you suspect flooding, try cranking with the accelerator pedal held down to the floor for a while to help clear things. Is there any chance that "critters" may have gotten to the car? Gnawed wires and nesting material can cause strange symptoms (besides fuel and spark, consider that air is also needed). An unusual (but not unheard of) problem can occur after a long period of disuse. Engine parts, including the valve train, can be a bit reluctant to move; if the timing belt was near failure, sometimes the additional stress is enough to break it, or it will just jump. Next chance, I'd suggest you try cranking for a reasonable time, and if there's still no firing, pull a plug and see if it's wet with fuel. If wet, obviously there's fuel delivery, and you need to check for spark. Connect the plug wire to the plug, and place the plug so its threaded part is grounded to the block (keep it away from any other wires - you dont want the spark to "zap" the electronics!). With a second person, have one crank the engine and the other observe for spark (or use a remote starter if you have to work alone). Get back with more details when you can.

SuperNova and Manarius -- you're both right, in part. If the ECU memory is completely cleared, it needs to relearn a lot. Just letting the car idle for sufficient time allows the engine management system to go from open-loop to closed-loop operation, providing some data for the ECU. However, there are certainly thing that take driving a while for the ECU to have good working data; for example, long term fuel trim (LTFT) is one.

I see... . I suppose that would make the sensor the thing to consider first.

Good info to start with: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ABS.pdf