OB99W

Maybe, maybe not; the light could be coming on because the ABS unit detects that the sensor resistance is out of range (due to a damaged wire or coil), or because the signal from it isn't sufficient. The first possibility might be a result of physical damage to the sensor. The second could be from sensor problems, but might also be caused by damage to the tone wheel or if the gap between sensor and tone wheel is incorrect.

It depends what you mean by "nothing will happen": 1) Absolutely nothing, not even a sound is heard. 2) A single click is heard, but there's no cranking of the engine. 3) Multiple clicks are heard, but there's no cranking of the engine. 4) The engine cranks, but it doesn't fire. Which best describes the symptom?

Yes, the 4EAT has a drain in the pan, like the one for engine oil. However, while draining engine oil (and replacing the filter) changes the vast majority of the oil, doing that on the trans isn't nearly as efficient -- two changes via pan drain will result in about 64% fresh fluid (see the link in my post #5 above). If the original ATF appears to be in reasonable condition (as apparently in Rooster2's case), two changes may be sufficient, but if the fluid is dark or smells even slightly "off", a complete flush or multiple changes is probably prudent.

This should give you an idea of what multiple ATF changes will accomplish: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=621866

Thanks for the picture -- it really illustrates why we often suggest changing more than just the timing belt itself. I tend to agree with Cougar, it's not likely that anything else suffered from the idler failure. Did you happen to find any metal bits and pieces when you pulled the covers?

If only it always was that easy. My experience in a "rust-belt" state is that a can of your favorite rust penetrant and a six-point socket might get the bolt out if you're lucky; if not, a series of drill bits, metal picks, and some cursing seems to work. After that, you may have to hope that the steering knuckle didn't rust enough to jam the sensor in tight; if the sensor is known to be bad, you can be a bit more agressive than gentle wiggling or prying with a screwdriver.

There's no need to feel that way; we've all made mistakes at one time or another, and you certainly aren't the first (and likely won't be the last ) with respect to timing the engine. That's the right attitude! I often learn more when things have a "catch" than when they go smoothly.

Okay, one more time now, for anyone (other than kellen ) reading this thread with the intention of replacing a timing belt: The arrow is not the indicator to use when installing a timing belt. (The arrow is there to help position things for checking/adjusting valve clearances.) The notch/line on the sprocket is what's used for t-belt installation.

You've accurately described several of my neighbors. Where I live, long gravel driveways are common, but these folks need to have theirs paved (another consumer of petroleum) because it's easier to plow (which they hire someone else with another 4x4 to do ). These same people naturally complain about the interest they're paying on the massive debt they've run up. I still have a gravel driveway; if the snow isn't too deep, I just drive over it, and when I can't do that, I shovel it out (no need to burn more gas going to a "fitness club" ). What many people also fail to realize is that if both drivers had a "huge Ford", neither one would likely fare as well.

Your description could certainly fit the symptoms of a broken timing belt. However, sometimes the failure isn't complete; the belt could be loose, jumped, or have one or two stripped teeth, so you may need to check for more than just whether the belt and cams are turning. Fortunately, the 2.2L from '93 is non-interference, so if the belt is bad, just replacing it (and at 170k and no repair history, probably idlers and tensioner) will likely get things back to normal. By the way, does cranking the engine sound the same as usual? Besides not firing, a broken or significantly jumped t-belt will cause sounds during cranking to be "unusual", since the valves obviously won't be synchronized with piston movement.

Take your pick: http://www.3wheelers.com/enter.html

Okay, so much for the Justy not coming back. Well, perhaps not in the US, anyway.

SOA, please don't bring back the Justy, at least not as I remember it. My brother bought one, new, in the mid to late '80s, thinking it would be a decent daily driver. It was a 3-cylinder, manual trans model, and did get good gas mileage. Unfortunately, the thing never ran right in cool/damp weather (it was carbureted, and had all the symptoms of perpetual carb icing), stalling to the point of being dangerous. After several attempts to get the dealer to resolve the problem, he dumped it at low mileage for very little money. I understand that in Europe, the Suzuki Swift was rebadged as a Justy in the '90s. Since Subaru seems currently to be aiming for a higher-end market, I'd be very surprised if they ever offer a car like the Justy again, even as a rebadge.

You're welcome, I hope it helps determine what's going on. By the way, I should mention that of course there'll be two places where there should be coincidence, 180 degrees apart. A degree wheel might possibly make things easier. EDIT: http://www.tavia.com/free_degree_wheel.html http://www.lucasinjection.com/Degree_wheel_100.jpg

Since you're concentrating on the cam lift and profile, I assume that you suspect an incorrect cam could affect total valve opening and amount during any particular part of an engine cycle. (I also assume you've checked valve clearances.) Obviously, the leak-down percentage being lower on the "bad" bank would seem to indicate good valve (and ring) sealing, and yet the compression is measuring low on those two cylinders. So, you've probably thought that perhaps the intake valves are closing late on #1 & #3. Before you tear things down, how about testing for when the intake valves are actually closing? Using your leak-down equipment, slowly bring the crank around through BDC at the end of the intake stroke for each cylinder, and carefully note the position of the crank pulley or sprocket at the point where leaking into the intake stops. You could mark a reference point with a small paint dot, using a different color for each bank (or cylinder). If #1 & #3 are different in position than #2 & #4, you've got certain confirmation that something is wrong cam/valve-wise.

Thicker (new) clutch facing requires more pedal travel for disengagement (everything else being equal), but given the other things you've mentioned, the shop may not have made the necessary adjustments. You might want to print out http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Drivetrain.pdf and show it to the folks at your shop. There's info about the Hill-Holder, including a procedure for adjusting the cable at the end of page 12.

Just to, umm, "clarify" things, the "tensioner" is also known as the "automatic tension adjuster".

You're supposed to compress the adjuster with the rod pointing up/vertical, using no more than 66 pounds of force, and doing it slowly (taking at least 3 minutes -- silicone oil is pretty viscous). If it failed under those circumstances, it would seem you did the best you could.

Sorry, old/slow computer, dial-up ISP, etc., so I haven't seen your video. However, idle lope (not "loop") can have a few causes, from the simple to the annoying/frustrating. I'd start by checking for loose vacuum hoses, then consider IAC and TPS. Loping can also be a characteristic of too much intake/exhaust valve overlap, so unfortunately a valve sticking is another possibility. (On a DOHC, a jumped belt can be the cause of excessive overlap.)

You had it right the first time, Nipper; the blower will work on high speed even if the resistor is open. The "problem" is that two people with different symptoms are posting in this thread. The orginal poster, eryque, has a blower that doesn't work on any setting, while the second one, insane_enasni, has a corroded resistor and is experiencing high-speed-only operation.

In case anyone is interested in how valve timing being off can increase the measured compression, here's the explanation: A piston reaches bottom dead center (BDC) of the intake stroke and reverses direction, beginning the compression stroke. Under normal circumstances, the intake valve closes a short time after BDC is achieved, which causes some loss of compression back to the intake. If the valve timing is off in the "right" direction, the intake valve closes a little sooner, at or closer to BDC. When that happens, more cylinder content is compressed (the loss to the intake is lessened), resulting in higher pressure.

The End Wrench is about as "official" as it gets when it comes to Subaru info. http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=HTML::home.html No problem -- look into it here: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18

I suspect it's because the windshield is probably the most safety-related piece of glass on a vehicle. Other pieces are usually made of tempered glass, and shatter when broken, but the windshield is laminated, and a big "star" or other crack obstructing the driver's vision could be a problem. The windshield also plays an important part in car-body integrity; a damaged one weakens the structure, making injury more likely in the event of a serious accident (especially a roll-over).

For many short people, it's leg length that necessitates having the seat too close. Of course, that could be addressed by adjustable gas and brake pedal positioning, as found on some cars. If this is an important issue for anyone, and you aren't concerned about "cosmetic" aspects of a work-around, consider something like: http://www.planetmobility.com/store/driving-aids/creative-controls/pedal-extenders/index.html

With automatics, AWD front/rear ratio is determined by on/off cycling of duty solenoid "C", and therefore rear drive can be disabled electrically if the system is functioning properly. Unfortunately, there's no equivalent with a manual's viscous coupling.