OB99W

What we really need is a large air bag, at the rear of the car, that inflates right before an impact. With modern technology, it's easy enough to sense an approaching object, its approximate size, and relative speed. If something big is still moving too fast when it's a couple feet (or whatever distance is designed for) away, the bag would deploy. It might not be able to totally eliminate "body" damage (to both the car and the people inside), but it could potentially reduce bent metal and injury significantly. If anyone patents/produces/markets anything based on the above concept, I expect royalties . Actually, I'd be surprised if something like that isn't already on someone's "drawing board" (CAD system), or even in production.

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/RoughIdle.pdf

Or just replace the parts if they've seen enough time/miles.

Correct... ...which is why using PB Blaster isn't a good idea. It "restores life" to seals because it's petroleum-based, and swells them. I'd suggest that if the boots are going to be reused, cleaning them with dry cotton or foam swabs is probably a better approach; a little of the old grease left behind usually isn't going to be a problem. As has been mentioned already, silicone-based lubricant is appropriate.

See page 18 of http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/OBDEWWin05.pdf .

Unfortunately, there's no need to go as far north as Vermont. What bugs me is that Subaru touts their cars for snow-country performance, but doesn't do nearly enough to minimize damage from salt, which often follows the snow in many places.

I'm assuming that we're talking about the under-dash box, and that "third one from the right" could also be referred to as "fifth one from the left", making it fuse number five (the one that porcupine73 mentioned). I was asking because the diagram I have (for the '93, but it's similar) shows two fuses that are in the same circuit, one preceding the tail/illumination relay and parking light switch (#23 in the main fuse box), and one following (#5 under dash). Anyway, if fuse #5 is the one that's blowing, keep in mind that besides tail/park/marker lamps, the license plate ones are on the same circuit. Flexing of wires going to the tailgate each time it's opened and closed can eventually damage the insulation, possibly resulting in an intermittent short; you might try slightly opening/closing the tailgate with the parking light switch on and see if that causes the fuse to blow.

Take a look at the P/T charts at http://www.chillers.com/PT%20charts%20for%20refrigerants.htm . Note the pressures at 65F and 70F for both R12 and R134a; you should be seeing more than 42 psi static. Although static pressure is not the way to determine the proper level of refrigerant charge, it would seem you're still low. How much did you add? (However, be aware that air and moisture affect static pressure.) Those numbers, of course, aren't "right"; even with the system running and measuring the high side, you're not hitting the expected static pressure for the temperature. Taking 10 minutes for the pressures to equalize after shutdown is excessive; that could help confirm there's contamination in the system, possibly air, moisture, bits of desiccant, etc. As others have already suggested, the system should probably be flushed, receiver/dryer replaced, other parts checked for blockage, etc. Once you're sure things are clean and dry, evacuate and recharge -- and don't forget the correct refrigerant oil type and amount.

It's hard to tell with what you provided so far; more info would be useful. Actual gauge readings (numbers, not "good pressure" and "low"), ambient temperature, engine RPM, etc., are things that would help with the diagnosis. Does the compressor clutch remain engaged, or does it short-cycle? What are the low-side/high-side static pressures? They should be equal if the system has been off for a reasonable period. Then run the system for several minutes, get the gauge numbers (and ambient temp), then shut the A/C off. Determine how long it takes for the low and high side static pressures to again equalize. Your previous post gave clues to the probable refrigerant "conversion", possible mix of refrigerants, and likely lack of knowledge and/or questionable practices by whomever did the work. Without that information, someone reading this thread might have assumed that the system was an original R12 one. Exactly my point . However, having the readings I asked for above may help to determine just how much work may be needed.

If it's minor, it could just have to do with differences in the cams (valve overlap).

No, no, no...lighters are for shrinking heat-shrinkable tubing, not for soldering. What you need is a propane torch or gas range, and one of these : http://cgi.ebay.com/ANTIQUE-Vintage-COPPER-SOLDERING-IRONS-BLACKSMITH-TOOL_W0QQitemZ320151203084QQihZ011QQcategoryZ39728QQcmdZViewItem Actually, if you have a piece of copper rod that can be appropriately filed, or tubing that can be crushed flat at the end, and a source of heat as I mentioned above, you can make do. Just be sure to hold the copper piece with something that will isolate you from the heat, because copper is about as good at conducting heat as it is electrical current . Tinning the "business" end before soldering is probably necessary. Of course, if you have the right gauge of bare copper wire, and a low-voltage source of sufficient current, you could make the equivalent of a soldering gun... (1/2 ) = (only half kidding)

Sorry, but my computer doesn't have the necessary codec(s) to view your video. However, when I did that sort of paper test, I'd hold the paper so that it hung vertically, just at the end of the tailpipe. At idle, the "puffs" of exhaust from each cylinder normally happen often enough to keep the paper away from the tailpipe. If there's a misfire, the paper will typically "fall back" to the end of the pipe. Sometimes an exhaust valve that's burned or sticking open can cause the paper to be sucked in. Is there a particular reason you're concerned about the '00? Are there any other symptoms? Is the "sucking" rhythmic, or sporadic? Testing with a vacuum gauge can help determine if there's a significant problem, followed by a compression test, and perhaps a leak-down test if merited.

These may also be interesting: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/1995Subaru.pdf http://www.ngkntk.co.jp/english/product/sensors/others/eras-kn.html http://www.ngkntk.com.br/site_ingles/sens_det/default.html http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=0348 http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=0353

Kami333, it helps to keep a topic in one thread. Nipper, even without gauges, there's already lots of information ; see: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78753

Intermittent shorts can be a pain to deal with. Specifically which fuse is blowing (value in amps, box location, fuse number)?

Here are a couple:http://www.endwrench.com/current/02SpringInsiderInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/MoreP0440TipsInfoW00.pdf

There's also no reason for the radiator secondary cooling fan to come on when the A/C switch is "turned on" if the compressor can't run.

Yes, an analog meter (depending on certain physical and electrical characteristics) would likely result in an averaged reading around 1/2 volt. A digital (such as that being used) samples the voltage periodically, and might indicate an erratic voltage anywhere between 0.1 and 0.9 volts; you'd have to do your own averaging.

It's a bit strange, if the system was truly cold, that it didn't seem to go open-loop for a bit. However, in order for the cat to work correctly, it has to get an exhaust stream that oscillates in content (the engine is alternately being fed a mixture to either side of the stoichiometric point), and the voltage range you're reporting would seem to indicate that the O2 sensor is seeing such a change. You could see what the sensor reading is when forced lean and rich. Lean is easy to accomplish -- disconnect a large vacuum hose such as the one to the brake booster. Rich is done by adding more fuel; some people inject propane at the intake, but you can often accomplish the desired result by blocking off the air intake somewhat. EDIT:You might also accomplish enrichment by partially restricting the fuel return line momentarily, as you did when checking fuel pressure. If the sensor seems to swing correctly, it's probably time for a road test. I don't know how you feel about being vulnerable to a ticket, but if the engine no longer seems to be running rich, it would probably be good to get things up to temp so the cat has a chance to burn off any fouling. (That doesn't mean you still won't have a damaged cat to contend with, but you might just get lucky.) After that, if it seems to run okay, I suppose an emissions test is next. Best of luck.

Only slightly "OT" : http://www.coinfacts.com/nickels/buffalo_nickels/1936_buffalo_nickel.htm http://www.coinpage.com/coin-image-1145.html

The correct heater resistance depends on the temperature. Four ohms would appear to be "in the ballpark" when "cold"; the O2 sensor needs to be rapidly heated to quite a high temp, and three amps (12 volts supplying a four ohm load) wouldn't be outside the range of possibilities. Since the heating isn't needed once the exhaust system comes up to normal operating temp, 30 ohms may be correct at that higher temp. EDIT:By the way, you can measure the resistance of the heater, but shouldn't measure that of the sensor itself; measure its voltage output to check it. That's because applying voltage to the sensor can damage it; therefore, if the sensor was miswired and heater voltage went to the sensor itself, it's good that you're replacing it.

Actually, this is a bit suspect. If the ambient temp was about 75F when you started, then of course the 2480 ohms reading when "cold" makes sense. However, 158F when "warmed up" is somewhat on the low side. I believe the thermostat spec for your engine should be that it opens at about 170-175F, meaning the coolant sensor resistance should be equivalent to that when the engine is warm. I also seem to remember that if below 160F, the ECU may remain in open loop. Assuming I've got those temps right (and hopefully someone else will say so if I'm wrong), there are three possibilities: 1) The engine wasn't fully warmed at the point you stopped taking the resistance reading. -or- 2) The engine was warmer than the coolant sensor resistance would have us believe, i.e. the sensor isn't accurate. -or- 3) The thermostat is of the wrong temperature range, not OEM, defective, etc., so the engine isn't coming up to high enough temp, and the coolant sensor is accurately reporting that. This, of course, is aside from the possible O2 sensor issues.

That's right; see page 5 of: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf

That's likely caused by an intermittent open circuit, not a short. When the problem occurs, if it affects all the speeds the relay is certainly a possible culprit. If the highest speed works while others are out, it's more likely that there's a problem in the blower motor resistor or wiring to it. Yes, the relay is a "plug-in" part.

Great ; it's good to burn less gas and help keep the air around Ithaca clean. I don't want to rain on your parade, but it's unlikely that the new O2 and coolant temperature sensors will help with hard cold-weather starting (the ECU, of course, runs open-loop until the engine is sufficiently warmed)... ...but new plugs and wires just might do the trick . As you may have already read here, using OEM parts for those is key.