OB99W

I'd suggest that you find and correct the VSS problem. If you have it, the exact DTC (diagnostic trouble code) would be useful. I can't say for sure that resolving the VSS issue will take care of the radiator fan problem, but they can be related. Besides, VSS problems can force the ECU into a "limp" mode, causing overall performance to degrade. As a general rule, anyone asking for help on the forum should always reveal any CEL indications and the DTCs behind them. It won't always help with the diagnosis, but it certainly won't hurt, and might just be a major clue.

It's "interesting" that the fans come on if the sensor is disconnected, but not when it's hot (possible fail-safe operation?). Since it appears that the fans cycled correctly under test, the ECU output switching would appear to be normal; I agree that the problem seems to be related to an ECU input/sensor. I seemed to remember that there's some usage of VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) data to determine fan operation, and the following appears to verify that: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/CoolingInfo.pdf Msmithmmx, besides what we've been discussing -- 1) Are there any other issues with the way the car is operating? 2) Has the "Check Engine" light come on at all during operation? 3) Does the CEL light when you turn the ignition switch ON, before starting the engine? 4) Did the CEL flash (about 3 times per second) when the green test connectors were plugged together?

I don't know the cost of the resistor, offhand. This problem is unrelated to the radiator fans not coming on. Have you tried using the green (test) connectors located under the dash? Reconnect the coolant sensor, plug the two green under-dash connectors together, and then turn the ignition switch to ON (don't start the engine). Do the fans cycle?

See these:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63197 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69923 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53396 Perhaps you've found the problem; why not compare the resistance of the sensor with a known-good one? EDIT: Of course, the sensors should be at the same temperature when comparing them.

It's very likely that the blower motor resistor has an open circuit. That multi-section resistor is used to slow the blower motor when the lower speeds are selected, but is out of the circuit for the highest speed (full voltage is applied to the motor). The fact that the blower works at the highest speed verifies that the blower relay and motor are okay. Sometimes the resistor opens from normal use, sometimes due to the blower motor drawing excessive current. You could try swapping the resistor, but should verify that the one you're swapping in is okay. Of course, this problem is separate from the one with the radiator fans. What Cougar suggested should help with that diagnosis.

Some weight is needed at the crank ends to smooth out power pulses (more so when an engine has fewer cylinders), but it isn't due to inherent imbalance in the horizontally-opposed designs; that's why the "thing" at the end of the crankshaft is a "pulley" and not a "harmonic balancer".

Depends -- the higher the output current demand from the alternator, the greater the magnetic field (and therefore the greater the field current) needs to be; it can indeed be several amps given enough load. However, the initial excitation field current requirement is quite a bit lower, and the current passed by the charge light is easily sufficient for that purpose.

Sorry, I got carried away there (actually, I didn't originally have the time for a long post). As Cougar explained, the alternator field current comes through the charge light (when the engine is being started); if the light is burned out or its wiring is defective, the alternator can have no output (but see below about the brake warning light). If the alternator is okay, once the rotor is turning with the field "excited", there will be output; that output is then fed back to the field winding, so the field current no longer flows through the charge light, and the light goes out. Would one of those quirks be that the brake warning light came on, but the parking brake was off and the brake fluid level was okay? That can happen when the alternator output drops; the ground end of the brake warning light is connected (via a diode) to the alternator field winding, so that the light is tested at engine start. (In fact, it can be a secondary source for the initial field current.) No; I did bring up that issue recently, but it was in relation to a situation where the alternator wasn't outputting and several dash lamps weren't lighting.

Okay, so the previous owner apparently decided not to waste the new parts, and installed them on the "new" engine. Unfortunately, you'd really need to pull the covers and check sprocket positioning. I'd suggest checking "easy" things first, then go on to the t-belt timing if nothing else is fruitful. Here are some links:http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf

Possibly, Belden (brand) ignition wires.

Hmmm, "40k miles on it" and "got a new timing belt & water pump"? Was the previous owner conservative, or is something wrong with this picture? Since the belt was apparently changed, perhaps the timing is off by a tooth; the engine will still run, but the performance/mileage would typically suffer.

Cougar, You're right; you should be the one to explain.

Do you know the relationship between the "battery light", the alternator field winding, and output from the alternator? (By the way, that question was meant to stimulate thought and further discussion; I do know the answer. )

Thanks, Porcupine73, but may I politely suggest that you try rereading my post? Gee, seems that was what I was getting at, since I asked "which lights, front and rear, come on if the parking switch on the column is turned ON?".

Normally the fronts and rears come on together, and any short that would power the rears would usually also power the fronts. So to help with the diagnosis,... ...which lights, front and rear, come on if the parking switch on the column is turned ON? By the way, did the "car wash" involve just the exterior, or was there some interior cleaning done as well? If so, where?

These may provide some additional insight: http://www.endwrench.com/current/02SpringInsiderInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/MoreP0440TipsInfoW00.pdf

Here's another article that might help: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/VehicleWont.pdf

My clicking on that link results in: "We're sorry, the image you are trying to connect to cannot be loaded. We do not allow remote linking to files stored on servers in our network."

Want pix? Try http://home.arcor.de/goep6/casablanca.htm .

Possibly related post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77863

Spreading this over more than one thread makes following it difficult. I assume this is the related posting: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77861

Given the circumstances you've described, I wouldn't be concerned. Engine blow-by will somewhat pressurize the crankcase. The PCV system will alleviate the pressure to some degree, but at idle the PCV valve isn't open much. Nevertheless, you could check that the valve and hose are not obstructed.

Note that a rusted-through fuel tank filler pipe is not uncommon on a Subaru that's been exposed to winter driving where salt and sand are used on the roads, and will give the same symptom as a badly-sealing gas cap.

The evaporative emissions system can be difficult and/or time-consuming to diagnose, which is why dealers have special tools for the job. The "Evaporative System Pressure Tester" is used in conjunction with the "Select Monitor"; see: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EvapSpring04.pdf That doesn't mean a good mechanic can't find and repair the problem, just that the dealer may have an easier job. Here's a bit more on evap: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/FtEvapEmissionTestW00.pdf

:clap: for both T.J. and Cougar!