OB99W

You're welcome. When there are two banks with a catalytic converter off each one, there are two front sensors. We tend to speak of a single front sensor because on 4-cylinder models (the vast majority, for now ) exhaust is Y-connected before the cat.

Further perspective: http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/102006_09.pdf

Yes, the expected ("normal") response would be pretty instantaneous.

P0700 is the code that's set when the TCU detects a problem and "asks" the ECU to turn on the MIL ("MIL Request"). While you could have a defective TCU, P0700 is a very "generic" code, and further diagnosis needs to be done before condemning the TCU. There's really not a "tree" for P0700; it's basically there to inform that further investigation is needed, which explains "refer to 4AT (D) diag". Was P0700 the only code? If so, then the TCU was unable to pass along more info to the ECU, and the TCU itself needs to be checked for further data. In this instance, that may be your best bet.

Ooops, I can only plead sleep deprivation, as explained above. To make up for that, I'll post a link: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/RearAxleBindingInfoF99.pdf

Yes, which is why I said "A failed "C" duty solenoid can cause the transfer clutch plates to be engaged full time, and drive to the rear wheels will be maximized." That's what I get for posting near midnight, which with my current schedule is way too late . I should have said "However, that in itself usually won't cause intermittent torque bind." (I'll admit that an intermittent connection, but not totally failed solenoid, could.) I also failed to mention that the wear problem in the extension housing of some early 4EATs can be fixed with a steel sleeve. I should get to bed, or at least stop posting, earlier .

The thread title is "Intermittent Torque Bind -- is this probably a "Duty C" solenoid?", so let's start there. Duty solenoid "C" regulates engagement of the transfer clutch; that is, the "duty ratio" or on/off cycle timing, which in turn determines the degree of AWD. A failed "C" duty solenoid can cause the transfer clutch plates to be engaged full time, and drive to the rear wheels will be maximized. However, that in itself won't cause torque bind. The transfer clutch plates are designed to slip, preventing torque bind. Those plates can get worn/contaminated, and on early 4EATs wear of a portion of the extension housing can also cause torque bind. If placing a fuse in the under-hood holder eliminates the torque bind, duty solenoid "C" is likely fine. Furthermore, it indicates that you might be able to get rid of the problem by doing a full ATF fluid flush, or multiple changes. The fact that the six quarts of fluid you changed were "old, dirty" leads me to believe that getting rid of more might help (there's lots aside from what the pan holds). After flushing, or a series of 3 pan drain/refills, the problem may be resolved. If it's still there (or intermittent), try doing several tight figure-eights while in reverse gear (in a deserted parking lot or other safe place); that can help "scrub" the transfer clutch plates. Some people have used limited-slip additive with good results, but I wouldn't start there. If none of the above resolves the problem, the extension housing and/or transfer clutch plates may have to be replaced.

If there was sufficient corrosion on the plug wire at either end to cause a weakened spark, moving the wire may have temporarily removed or broken through it; it can reform, sometimes quite a bit later. In the meantime, if the code doesn't recur, then there probably isn't enough misfiring (there's always some) for the ECU to see, or to damage the cat. I'd suggest replacing the Autolites. On the resistor type, I've seen the resistance go up significantly in value as the plug is used; that eventually leads to misfire.

Your memory/sanity isn't an issue. The tanks do hold about 15.9 gallons, unless there's a big dent somewhere. As Manarius said; however, some have mentioned here that after adding Techron fuel system cleaner to the gas tank, the gauge was more reliable. It probably wouldn't hurt to check electrical connections at the rear as well.

Then it's likely okay, but I'd throw a voltmeter on, just to be sure. I don't remember how many cycles without a detected problem it takes for the light to be turned off, so clearing the ABS memory is probably a good idea.

Removing a valve cover allows checking of valve clearances; if you're lucky, that might provide some clues. However, using a borescope through the spark plug hole or pulling the head is necessary to inspect the combustion chamber end of the valve. As already mentioned, a vacuum gauge can tell a lot (without requiring any teardown), and sometimes a compression gauge or leak-down test can catch a sticking valve.

Gary, one more thing -- since the car sat around, is the battery at full charge? Sometimes a low battery will cause ABS problems or false codes to be generated.

There are several points to consider:1) How trustworthy is the dealer; was the reading really 98,000? 2) Was the odometer replaced precisely at the time of the malfunction, or were there miles racked up that 98,000 didn't include? 3) You're about 6,000 miles away from the recommended change point, assuming the dealer and the mileage reading are accurate. While the t-belt isn't very likely to break at precisely 105,000 miles, since you don't know the service history or the accuracy of the mileage reading, why take a chance? Sure, the odds are that an additional 800 miles isn't going to be the final straw, but remember that the 2.5 is an interference engine, and a broken t-belt can result in a lot more expense than one that's replaced as preventive maintenance.

Yes, dumping enough raw fuel into the cat can cause a partial meltdown, especially if you were pushing the car hard to check performance at the time. However, sometimes a cat gets saturated without becoming permanently damaged; as long as everything's firing properly now, a highway trip that gets the cat hot (not due to raw fuel!) will sometimes correct the problem. You might try a 15-30 minute highway ride and see what happens. At 96,000 miles, if the O2 sensors haven't been replaced before, they could be on the way out (especially the front one). The fuel dosing the two misfiring cylinders gave the cat could have pushed things over the edge as far as efficiency determination is concerned. I'd try a highway trip, then consider replacing the front O2 sensor if the P0420 returns; use an OEM unit if you do. Even if the cat needs replacement, a new O2 sensor will help it live.

Unfortunately, parts counterfeiting doesn't begin and end with nuts, bolts, and the like. For example, the electronics industry has a problem with transistors, integrated circuits, capacitors, etc., being targeted. When you have 100,000 pieces of something ready to be used in production, it's nice to know if they're "real" or just look like it, but prone to failure. An entire industry is developing, doing secondary QA lab testing, often with quite detailed analysis; in the case of counterfeits, they may actually be doing the primary QA.

So, what we want here is a "coaxial" bolt? Ever since hardware started coming from China and similar sources, I've also been leery of it. However, having experienced and read of failed OEM hardware, who knows what the source or quality of it is. Nevertheless, I suppose for something as critical as the belt tensioner, an original part might be a better bet.

Wecome to the forum. As has already been suggested, have the OBD-II trouble code read, and get back to us with it. (If the light came on after a recent gas fill up, try tightening the gas cap. )

One more: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/ic80560.htm

Yes! Perhaps you need to pay more attention in class. See: http://www.herguth.com/capabilities/brakeswell.htm and http://mightyautoparts.com/pdf/articles/gb0803.pdf

How's the heater? Does turning it on full blast (yeah, I know, not a lot of fun now , but just for a quick diagnosis) help drop the temp?

Unless the rust on the sensor mounting bolt and steering knuckle is minimal, I'd hold off on pulling the sensor until you check other things first. That bolt has been known to rust/seize/break, and dealing with that is the pain you'd expect it to be. (You can turn the steering wheel enough to get a straight-in run to drill one out, but who needs that? ) If you've ever changed a front axle on one with ABS, you've seen the tone wheel, just probably didn't have to pay attention to it before. The brake shield does a good job of hiding the ring when things aren't disassembled, so you have to look in from the bottom (with the wheel off, naturally) to check for contamination and to verify proper clearance. What I've done is measure the gap (just making sure it's within tolerance) at one tooth, then remove the feeler and have someone else turn the hub while I visually check that the gap doesn't seem to change with rotation; also verify that there's no significant axle end play, which could cause the gap to change as the car is driven. Don't forget to check the resistance; breaks in the wire insulation from use/abuse/animals can allow water to flow inside it and get into the sensor itself, corroding the coil. That would usually cause codes 21 and/or 23, but not always. You're welcome, I hope this helps.

Petroleum products should never be used on brake hydraulic components (parts that come into contact with the brake fluid); they can swell, distort, or deteriorate seals, etc. Even if it wasn't needed before, I'd now suggest rebuilding the caliper. Usually only brake fluid itself is used for "lubrication" of brake hydraulics. The caliper has to be free to slide, and the pads also need to move, so other lubricants (usually silicone-based) specifically designed for brake applications should be used as required. If there's any chance that the WD-40 got into the flex line, that could have been contaminated/damaged as well, and you should consider replacing it. Flush the hard line before remounting things, and of course bleed as needed afterward.

Those codes are for abnormal sensor signal, as opposed to 21 and 23, which would indicate that the ABS ECU saw an open circuit or high input voltage (more likely in the case of poor electrical connections). Nevertheless, you could check sensor resistance, which should be around 1k ohm (+- 20%), and for corrosion. I'd look at the sensor tips, making sure nothing is contaminating them and they're not damaged, that the gap from tip to tone wheel teeth is correct (info for '99 fronts says 0.9-1.4 mm or 0.035-0.055 in, should be same or similar for '98) and doesn't vary much as the wheel is rotated, and that no tone wheel teeth are damaged. If you have an oscilloscope, you can check the output voltage while spinning each wheel.

Yes, as detailed on page 10 (right column, near the top) of the link I previously mentioned above:http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuel.pdf

I realize we're past this part of the diagnosis, but the following might put to rest some of the concern: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ExhaustInfo.pdf