electryc_monk

I forgot to mention they are all 14 inch rims. all tires had the 70/14 markings. :>) and thanks for the link.... for some reason its one of the links i had misplaced when cleaning and reorganizied the favorites folders and stuff. [edit because i forgot to post which wheel link] http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/pug14-a.jpg

wouldn't the EJ = Gen 3 IF so my bad Fox. :-p

Dude - Fox, I think you miss understood him. Gen 1 is the EA82 logo in the casting of the head (next to exhaust port) Gen 2 is the same but, with an underline Gen 3 is the same but in a box is *THAT* what you were hunting for? someone has a picture diagram in their album but i don't have that in memory sorry or i'd link you to it.

A fully functional GL1600 Third eye grill with a "steel front bumper/airtank tube" and 5speed 4wd tranny. and for $150 four in good condition PUG 505 aluminum rims with a steel spare for a few dollars more. I wish I knew if the 505 is the right diameter on the bolt spacing that's why i asked them about the cost of the set. They had 3 of the 4 little caps in very good shape, i didn't hunt for the 4th but who knows. Fount two other sorta good (front end accidents) wagons 83 and 84 models sorry forgot if they were 4wd or not. Subaru3 --- I have a feeling you may not know of this place. Okamiichiban does :>) and I think we may have told Calebz about this place. As for a picture of the rims... I would link to the known catalogue of rims but I am mentall drawing a blank on who's folder they'd be hiding it for varification of valid rims. and the digicam's battery's were recharging so maybe later I might wnder over there again... maybe not in a while too....who knows.

I'll wait till the timeline for the specifics. As for the "joe's" reference? May I ask about that? Like what or maybe where else might i see what your refering tooFM? Or is that just different pictures from the same place and time on someone elses site? So ummm i guess I'll see an email on the 2nd of December then eh?

For the Xt6 book that houses "Section 4 and 5" I'd like to get some specific numbers varified. In the XT FSM for section 5-1 its on pages 10,11, and 13 I don't have the XT6 FSM Its the Body and Exterior section 5-1 Body Datum points The regular XT and the Wagon have Exatly the same measurements in the FSM's I have access to (mine and another persons). If you have those three pages and are able to scan them it would be beautiful if you could email them to me or stick them in your album on the photo album section. I happen to have SU-13 of the 1988 KLM Automotive publishing Inc. manual listing nice info but I need to varify this piece of papers numbers are the correct numbers. thanks in advance. P.S. where did those pictures of Witte's wagon go?

does she come from a family of folks that have little or no mechanical knowledge? IE "mom and Dad don't know a wrench from a torque wrench or a pair of channel locks?" Then you have the ignorance factor added to the security factor. If its just the security factor (I daon't want to have to wrry about it going kaput on me one random night and stranding me somewhere). Well is she knowledgeable of her own car? Does she know how things work? Is she safe driving her car? Does she have confidence in how to drive her car in ANY, yes ANY weather? I learned how to ride a motorcycle from Mom. I have taught many folks(male and female) how to turn a wrench and simpler aspects of their own personal car. Demystify the subaru thing for her via working on your communication skills. as for that "scrotchrocket" worry. FEAR is the stance behind that thought! I will not dialogue about motorcycle safety with someone who will not read up on the facts of motorcycle safety versus auto safety. If she would listen to your wishes about dialoguing with her about the older subaru then ask her why she won't dialogue is it based out of fear of the unknown? I mean do either of you know the quality of a paint brush for art sake? Which is better a camel hair or horse hair brush? Answer depends on its application (recently graduated with Tech theatre BA) because scenic painting requres several different brushes for specific texture and detailed results. Final words from me now....(I learned these words from elsewhere) A person convinced against their will is of the same opion still! think about THAT for a while then go talk with her. (that relates to everyone what do you think eh Vickaroo or Chef Tim?)

time to wait and see. i guessed, not to see what i get.

I just recieved the email from "Across the pond" and will be trying to get the pictures loaded before sunday . Reason being the delay? I have to active the website again (it's a dormant account for me at the moment so just for your patience if I can't get it uploaded by sunday I wonder if the Admin of USMB would be okay with the pictures of the article sitting on the surver for the gallery? (personally I think *THAT* is asking too much of the server.) (WOW) nice article too! (sorry to be such a tease folks.)

I make sure the Rain-X is good and heavily applied and the wipers are used on the rare occasions like the initial fog layer or what not...... after over a decade of using that stuff its wonderful for keeping Ice and slush from sticking to the windshieled etc. I even use it on the headlights and tail lights too.

in different cars. in its original car (86 carb'd GL 4WD wagon) the D/R tranny saw 108mph (on flat ground was topped out at 92-94 mph) coming down outta the Rockies into the NEvada desert floor on , ummm Highway 80 was it? in the turbo wagon I have seem 102-104 mph on the short sprint to the observatory over the last 2 years I have done it 3 times. Just to see and I had some air space between the carpet and the pedal still, who knows where my limit is. I'm still 185 or 195 70 R 13's so there. I figure I might get to 120 or 122 maybe???? anyone else?

here in Denton Texas.. a fellow univ. staffer has one :>) green and gold with those nice gold rims too.

like Torxxx said, it is visible from the front thru the grill. Seriously if you see the cable coming from the drivers side then you can see where it goes for the level to be pushed towards the drivers side. I'm really surprised your back-of-the-hand got scraped up. I have A/C condensor and the area to squeeze up thru there is wide enough for one of the boardmembers to mount fog lights behind his grill so if you cut your hand then something must be amiss here and we don't know about. When the junkyard wagon i was looking at had a busted cable i did this technique and didn't even get dirty doing it. best of luck, you sound be able to achieve something similar.

Seee (whistles innocently and walks off to do other things now.

Miles 1st then Gabe... :>) Miles after swapping out the "dented rim" on drivers front for good one and rebalancing the goood tire on good rim. And swaping out warrantty on sidewall cut tire on pass front good rim the car doesn't YET have the same symptoms of my initial problem. Granted I have only once had it up to 56 on the street for squeeze last night but iwill test it one this afternooon when i make a run to home despot!(wrygrin) Gabe are you responding to Milefox or me :>) just curious thats all. and snotrocket... yes i am curious about your outcome in due time too. back to Milesfoxs inquiry: as for the wheel bearings to be replaced in the wagon's front end due to the "disappearance when in a turn" reference? going into a turn the vibration would subside (maybe I wasn't clear enough maybe I was) the vibrations in the front would not comepletely disappear they would just be so much lower that it was a "initial" feeling of no vibration. when i did this last trip to fortworth and noting the speed at which the vibrations faded in and then the peaking of the vibration intensitiy and then lowered the faster i went there was no "fade out on the upper end. Well actually let me say I didn't feel comfortable going anyfaster then 83 or 84 and the vibration was still there like it was at 68 or 69. The peak was 72 to 74 mph on the drive south. on the return drive it had a widened range or vibration. the fade in was as low as 54 mph and the peak stayed at 72 - 73 but, the heavy peak area was from 69 to 75 and would then fade out a little faster when i got to 82 but it was still there. thats why i sorta raced to the tire folks that afternoon. so now I am VERY intrigued by the idea that i too maybe seeing wheel bearing decay. ODD trivia note.. the vibration was so intense that the Air ride system would go into "flashing icon" moda and not pump anymore. I think I'll go out on a limb and guess that the sensors on the shock are just close enough that computer freaked out and wouldn't be able to keep up with the freq. of hitting the "upper max" relay and the "need air" fill relay. (smirks) BTW Miles, dude i think I missed something completely from your posts... I have reread them a few times and I am not sure if you did the following or what... care to clarify for me when ou have time? due to front end halft shaft worn out you made it RWD this is from disassembling the halfshafts and leaving the outter cup and its splinded shaft in the hub for the bears and brake to attach to correct? And did you like tape over the open cup end where the ballbearing knuckle part of the shaft slid back and forth in? or is it open to the elements as its already toasted? and this works for the ability to have a stable front end? I wonder about the rigidity of such a situation. Care to feed my curiosity? The lower "a" arm thats actually a beam :>) with the trailing stabilizer bar that butts up to the body under the *dead pedal*? and the strut. and of course the antisway bar too. I would of thought (Philosophical part of the question starts here) that the drive shaft also adds to the stability of the front suspension and without the half shaft attached to the hub it wouldn't be as stable?

I'm with Dennis on this one... sorry folks.. the Wife wants SECURITY. Read (Your not goona be spending Alot of time tweaking "my car" so get a very low maintance model...."I'm your high maintance model ... and stop spending so much time on that messageboard too!)

Okay got a reply back from Griffin Rad so now I have BOTH options to post about. EA82 radiator custom build from A.) local shop and B.) Griffins offical reply Bottom line cost first then details afterwards... A.) $232.50 + tax "If we provide the side tanks for the Cores" * B.) $325-375 (total appearantly includes shipping i dangerously assume at this moment) A.)Specifics of the design Greg used in calculating the modification is based off the 2 core i showed him that is in the turbo wagon currently. A.) So he was hesitant to reduce the dia of the colling pipes to create a 3 row as it was 2 rows of 1/2 inch pipe. Well, the 3 3/8 inch pipes in the stock measured core area calculated up to a 15% increase in colling capasity. This with a 16" fin count(that part of "fin count" is my only iffy info). Here is the cost analysis that Gregs shop will do for us: Core $140 is his cost if we minimum 5 of them at 157 each and the $75 labor with our supplied tanks thats how he can do it at that price. For some reason I am remembering that if he had to order tanks from then it'd be like $60 ber set or something absurd like that. Thats why he was suggesting getting a bunch of junkyard core's and that way he could also attach the bolting mounts for the fan scroud and factory bottom pegs(feet). Thats fine by me I found half a dozen ole single cores in yards around her easily but eh.... So folks I gotta run to the Discount tire shop and so from memory these are those that wanted an update when it was figured out: Calebz (now mostly local texas friend) Okamiichiban (bigtime lurker AKA local denton texas friend) Mudrat79 ?Subaru3? (AKA old school subies in Tx) ? ? ? ? ? me

welcome and don't worry the natives have been fed recently too. don't worry they aren't that wierd... are we folks? (giggle twitch)

as a car owner and a few at that... the family also has a similar perspective on dealer ads on cars. With that in mind when the latest "Toy" was purchased from the local dealer, they asked to make sure the decals etc. were not installed on the Truck. When asked why they wanted it that way. They simply said, "Considering how we tend to our vehicles and that we have a 'well known' desire to keep money in the community with being on city counsil that if anyone asks we can tell then directly. Word of mouth has a higher face value then anything you could stick on it." You can bet I'll be using said reply *IF asked* when I buy a new car sometime in the future. :>)

fact in my units: 4EAT is 3.70 (EA82T 1988 wagon) 4wd 5spd S/R 3.90 w/rear diff lock 4wd 2WD MT? 2WD auto? I can't be factual on the rest because in the FSM book 1 i distinctly remember a listing of the turbo 2WD 5spd having a different ratio the the non-turbo 5spd and the 3AT supposedly has a 3.70 ratio as well.

nice goodies.... I wonder what the "industry's" wear spec's are on this for internal parts and the weathering for external parts? any one have data to add or links of research to back up the claims that I dare say several of us have herd over the last year or so from different points along the road?

Where's the cheesy and crackers for the whinning (you know) that's about to occur? and I dare say that the individual is mostlikely a member or you'll get them to be soon enough? OR is this someone down south in the AUsubaru.com board????

and if memory is correct, they are either 14 or 17 mm sized. The "Nuts" are tack welded onto the frame/body section under the fenders. If you end up poping it off then you will need to use a pair of visegrips or at least a good box wrench to hold that square nut.

to keep from creating bad blood for anyone involved and oopsing on your first go at the timing belts.... i would suggest towing it home and that way you can work on it in the driveway etc and do it with Much LEss urgency... that and your only a few steps from food or drink when you want it. :>) of the PC to post an "um what now" if this isn't the issue. :>) that's what I'd do....

after a drive to fort worth to the elliott reeder yard and back ..... was able to find a few things AND made it back just intime to drive into Discount tire for them to "Relook at it" yup! Bent rim... Why the guy's didn't see it back then ... when i first took it in for the rebalance and rotaion. When I could of sworn that I told them of the vibration in the front..... they did notice a slight cut into the sidewall of one of the other tires. but as it was still "within limits" it wouldn't get replaced just yet.... well after swaping out the spare and then sticking the bent rimmed tire (drivers side at that) in the storage place :>) its still amusing to see the reaction of the unknowing to the spares hidding place. so tomorrow they will fix the cut tire and i'll be taking a spare rim with me to swap out the bent one obviously too! yeah for all the back up advice and thoughts of help... and as a benifit the rotors are very nice as well as the half shafts.