electryc_monk

WARNING!!!!! OF rsafety sake DO NOT GO TO ZERO PSI in the rear! even one at zero PSI will result is drasticlally unsafe handling characteristics. Just for kicks I desided to see what an XT6 does with a single airsturt at zero as I know what a wagon handles like with a rear or front on zero. XT6 with air ride and a rear one that won't hold air is VERY hazzardous in corners and stopping. VERY HAZARDOUS. You see the wheel with the zero or absurdly low PSI has a near 100% habit of rising off the ground to near zero friction. this allows it to be the first to lock but as its a rear that raises forcing the "body roll" to the front. This is one wild diving feeling too! It feels like it is dropping even further then normal as the rear is riasing so high. So if your going into a left handed corner (and the left rear is low) then you have a highsiding rear end that points the front opposite corner out of the turn. The reason i say highsiding is its almost like the same feeling as a motorcycle gives as you go into a turn and the rear desides to loose contact with ground. I figurred out that the safeest method of keeping it driven safely on the road was locking the Rear diff and using the handbreak along with the engine braking.... Yes the obvious lowrider slam does occur too... denture removal slamming is nots very good for bumpy turns either... then you get the webble wobble feeling and thats just not fun at all. Experience was about 2 weeks of trying to figure out why the rear would (honestly) randomly loose PSI in one or both struts. Turns out the air lines that go into the solinoids (back side of the solinoids ) needed to be cleaned and the solinoids gasket/ O-ring thingy that goes between the strut mounting surface and the underside of the solinoid. PArt cast me $6 a piece to solve that problem last year. Oh and what ever you do don't lt them sit at full deflation for to long otherwise they will excellerate the wear with cracksnearest the "normal low" standing position and as such will not be long beofre you'll need to replace them. Tangent.. that being said I have been working on a manual override setup for each of the struts with a guage to set them up and that way be able to manually adjust each one - or as a pair to specific PSI for this of for that reason..... current estimation in parts is just over $50 for this project but it looks like it'll be closer to $100 for all the extra stuff. Oh and a side note for the actual Line that goes into the slinoid, the tire once its off covers a metal plate that uses two plstic sorta threaded screws at the top and on 10mm bolt at the bottom below the solinoid. These plastic screws are of the same design that the philips screws are for the door foot trim that clips over the carpet. the threaded washer that splitsout into 3 or 4 spread arms securing the screw in place.... yeah that design. I just twist a few times then end up pulling them out and when i reinstall them i just "push-pin" them back into the plastic washerlike threaded whole filler thingy. I'm eating and brain is focused on food so the name of the part is not coming to me at the moment sorry. (yeah its an excuse but eh) You can clean off the plastic hose once removed from the plug in port on the solinoid you could put a light coating of silicon sealant around the little tiny o-ring on the plastic air line and that also adds an extra layer of sealing protection as it ages and as winter set in.

link isn't workin for me - you knw why? is it a signin only site?

please do I am very curious....

do a google search on Grampa and subaru in the search and you should come up with a great story with pictures of a GL sedan with a FMIC :>) i didn't save it to my fav's so I can't snap it in here sorry.

curious... makes me wonder IF its a odd name for the fuel pressure unit when the pump goes to higher PSI when you floor it????? ..or maybe its just part of the wiring to be cheaper at streamling the assembly line with a "single wirring system and only installing *needed* adapters as the model requires....

my email was for the same demise and that was this AM too. i asked in the email about the engine for pictures, what the cost of it was if it could of been registered in the states :>) if it was a TD or not.... if not then it could easily be done :cool: and so I'm thinking of calling them just on principle tomorrow about them.

why not I've delt with them resently maybe they'll be ever better for you? eh who knows.

if your gonna do that buy the RV "battery isolator" for like 30-40 at any auto parts place that sells snowplow parts or RV shops or (pepboys as i resently ran across one down here.) :>) that way you can have your crank and eat it too!

hmmm . wild hair moment for consideration. Does the body and frame of the turbo car have(ignoring the front damaged area) a more solid setup or does the N/A car have the "less rusty/ cleaner, longer life expectancy" body and frame setup? If you answer the turbo dos then the first thing I'd do is get that car up on stands and prep it for a 4WD swap over that way the engine and ECU and its wiring and turbo plumbing and vacuum lines ALL are ready to go (side not the PSI of the turbo fuel pump is significantly hgier then the N/A FI system). The swapping of the 4WD subframe with the help of a friend or two is honestly a weekend or less project.... especially IF you have access to or own a FSM (Factory service manual). you could do a direct swap of the tranny back of the driveline and it really isn't all that "difficult, just requires patients and a few other things like space, time and a few willing accomplicies. now about the idea of the shafts... there are TWO different halfshaft designs... there is a 3 RIBBED and a 2 RIBBED design . That being said the actual shaft has either 2 or three ribbs on it (usually on the wheel side). the 2 ribs is the 23 splineor 25 spline at 116mm diameter (inside the mouth of the female end(that which slips onto the tranny) called part number AU85 i wanna say.... the 3 ribs are the AU95 and only 25 spines as they are the 130mm inside diameter of the female end of the halfshaft [this was a seriously frustration time for me with autozone as we had to order then measure after the first fiasco and then the second one didn't measure right but, third timesa a charm sooo the part number 7310 is the AU95 which is the 25 spline large diameter halfshaft for the 4EAT tranny :>) useful trivia for anyone if they so choose... but i'd wanna go reverify before you go off and order a set off this info as the numbers may be swapped in my head.....

For Mom's '69 charger hehehehoh is she happy now! 5 3/4 Hella H4 design lamps set of 2 for 39 plus shipping over the bay of E-ness. Granted her "baby" is still the 4 light system I did a silly thing for her, I left the wiring set up for the old high beams in tact as these units came as a 2 light setup (each is a Hi\lo) so the Hellas are the lows and when she hits the high button all fore lights are on hehehe she Liiikes it. I have seen the 4 set of Hellas (with 55W lows and 65W highs go for $100 plus shipping over the summer but i don't see any right now on ebay... but the pairs are out there for a cost reference. I personally swear by Bosch fog and Hella fog lamps. and have for over 12 years. With all the night driving I did/do they have ALL pair forthemselves repeatedly beyond recall. Shoot one night i kept track going home from work after installing the rack system under the bumper.... the $52 fog set and the $65 set of offroad driving lights paid for themselves by showing off : 8 deer four pheasants 2 fox a big turtle 12 cats (Atleast) a few coyotes 7 or 8 farm dogs (a few got used to me and my latenight flybye too) over a dozen 'coons and a few squirrels several Opossum ...and that was just that one night alone. sorry for the tangent. just realize one thing about the eruro design they have THICK glass that sticks out further then your stock ones do so just be awareof this... as in the Chargers case I had to swap the location of the lowbeams because of this thinkness (the vacuum actuated covers wouldn't fully open or close due to catching on the thick lenses of the Hellas' Go for it!

not sure gotta go consult the note pad and check the car over to see..... been a while since i checked the radiator level in the silver one.

the all silvery pain on all the body parts looks as slick as can be right? and had the vertical "Burnt red" (in my monitors) stripes under the rear passenger doors only? if this is the one then yup they are around here too.

the folks that have the subaru EA82 gasket sets have a sight and i ordered the "head set" for replaceing a set of heads on a turbo. the kit cost $88. total with shipping. I installed the set. discovered a leaky exhaust or so I thought. Called them and asked how good their parts warrantty is as when i took the head off the gasket seperated in two areas. They said without seeing it and the fact that I had the engine running a maximum of 6-8 minutes total that they wouldn't make a call on it until they had a chance to look at it. A week later I recieved an email with an appalogy and an offer to crdit my card or send a new one in its place... i of course took the new one and installed it. Well its in a nice and slick but, we narrowd the leak down to a crack somewhere in the block :>( brand of stuff some is felpro and Apex in California here's their site: gasket folks

Minimum standards for the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) of your battery hunt is 625amps *** IF your wanting to make sure you can start it with all that stuff eatin' up the juice.

there are two dia sizes that I'm aware of with respect to round headlights. 5 3/4 inch and 7 inch i vaguely remember seeing something about a 6+ size too but thats not even a fuzzy thought its more of a "why do i think i remember that size?" prime example here : 5 3/4 sized hal. lights these are a set of 7" diameter lights (disclaimer: I have no Idea the sellers are, just uesd for size picture references)

Did you mean the "castlenut" that goes on the end of the halfshaft keeps coming undone? I'd be worried that the flat washer and cut tappered spacer may be missing or improperly in use or maybe not even there anymore? IF the rear gives you such worry - look at them closely they may actually be "semi-adjustable" after all there are a few different spring rear shock sets out there and they have a sort-of diling in ability. IF that makes sense to ya? Kinda like its got a,b,c, and d settings which height do you want kinda thing. My first (86)GL 4WD wagon had either 3 or 4 settings on the origional rears. Now as for the wheels in all directions comment, makes me wonder are the tires all balanced correctly? wonder if the front steering arms and knuckles look like they have been adjusted at all and maybe they could be "deftly" or at least sighted by you with the car on jacks to see if you can "toe it in or out" as necessary to test the front ends allignment....... with what others have said , is that enough to go from for starters there big guy? and before i forget... welcome to the neighborhood.

okay so my mouth got in the way again. the top of the radiator should be the same width all the way across. about 1.5 inches wide = 2 core radiator if its not the same width the entire length of the top of the radiator then its a single core. This visualization can be done without a single tool. Other then your brain. and thats all i can offer dude.

well the thing that thru me for a "wow" was I also have never "Seen" or heard of a "jeep" that was diesel. have you?

speaking of Jeeps here's something rather Link for a RHD Diesel Stick 4WD 1996 JEEP! Funny thinis its in PA. and I tryed to email the addy but their mailbox is full so much for finding out the details on these oddities... like this one here hows that for oddity?! On a subie note... IF I had the $300 I'd buy it straight up.

the front center top of the radiator will have a slight inward "u" occur about in the middle of the top. That is a single core rad. The two core is the same thickness all the way across.

well what are the signs of engine abuse? does it look "Too clean" or is it showing any signs of overheated engine what's the mileage and whats the rust factor? aside from that... 300 sign unseen I'd be hard prssed to throw 300 at it... pictures whould vastly change my estimate....but the masters around here could "taste the dirt" and tell you if the weather was gonna give you a tornado or not.

anyone care to add speculation on part cross-over-abilities here? If a given clutch "kit" were the same Diameter as say the Turbo clutch kit for the EA82 and happen to have the same spline count(I'm guessing here) as it's not stated soooo..... hereis the link that made me think of this as we like to use starion Intercoolers for the turbo's here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33730&item=2430370362

I've never heard of it. In the New Forresters and such... over seas get the D/R tranny so I'd dangerously (if easily) assume its a D/R AWD system. Granted this would only fit the EJ engine series and the 3.0H6's as well. But hey thats just my wacked out version of common sense thinking anywho...

uhhh Nope. the D/R is sitting pretty happy in the lifted TurboWagon AKA Silver D/R'agon

ummm at the risk of pun incroachment. What rides shotgun? I know it'd take a serious pair to drive this MFP Interceptor!