electryc_monk

currently siting quietly is a FT4WD 5 spd with vacuum actuated Locking rear diff and its a 3.90 ratio.

relays relays..... well, taking off the lower two large pieces of plastic under the steering wheel will allow for access to the relays I'm aware of. there are some 4 to 8 relays up under there ALL of them are on the left side of the steering wheel shaft, they also all seem to be the round steel design with the diagram printed on the metal. There are 2-4 that are "C clipped" onto the top side of the ECU (engine control computer with 3 bolts attaching it to the steering frame.) Remove those three bolts and getting to these relays will be less hassle. The other 4 or 6 relays are up above the fuse block - and I do mean UP, they too are held in with those same designed "C clips" for snap out and pull down of the relay and the wiring to see them easily out in the open air dangling for ease of swapping the relays. Here's a time testing trick of the relays as they are all the same design. At least one of these relays is for the A/C system so if you have the A/C on while unpluging the relays one at a time you'll find out which one(or more) they are and can then then stick those relays into the *STILL EMPTY A/C socket for proving those relays work and that way your not climbout back up and looking to "SEE if the lights are on or not". care to try that?

Um hey, JonOfScio, The tranny from the XT6 is an EA series tranny, not the EJ series. WJM - does the tranny mounting area look alot like thiese on this page? (I'm thinking it should be identical) http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/just-the-sube-pt_2.html These pictures are specifically what I'm refering too but, realize these bottom two are of the car they were removed from hense the masive michigan cancer: http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/GL-10-pre-D-R.jpg http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/D-R-before-2.jpg http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/D-R-before-removal.jpg

this may sound redundent perhaps lame but, have you checked all your ground wires for good clean contact? I believe there are 3 or 4 alone in the engine bay. Curious question(s): Have you swapped the headlamps to see what that might do? What do the connectors look like for the left side vs. the other for corrosion? How rusty is this car?

it was when i first learned of the engine computer being "tested" on the XT6 and i got the injectors for nothing really! so it never went anywhere after the project never went beyond the "hey lets findout about the aftermarket ECU that still is "who knows what" I don't know Dennis, ....

thats pretty daggone hypocritical of them when the dial has a selector for "engine washing" they do have a sign up that says: Do not wash list: Livestock trailers open engine or transmission cases Tankers (inside the tank) Dumpbed trucks (the dumpbeds) cement mixers farm equipment construction buckets on heavy equipment asphault trucks or trailers chemical transports so yeah i use it for washing off the underside of the car reguallarly. That and on retunrs from the winter trips up north I bring ramps for washing the salt off the car.

go look at Skip's "Wagon's HO! page. serious scratch happened there. or do a search on recent Skip postings (laughs) as he did answer someones post a week or so ago with uber geekdom shots of hius "after factory dash" and engine bay stuffs.

And it was over 1.5 years ago -I dare say. Someone Had their injectors cleaned and then balanced - to flow at as tight as possible GPM flow rates. Then they posted the data sheet next to the data sheet of the before the rebuild and the numbers were rather dramatic, to my memory anyways..... The individual in question was I believe also an eastcoaster? I also have a "gut feeling" the Flow rates of the EA82T injectors are less then the flow rates of the ER27. Why you ask? I don't remember but it had to do with Volume issues or the 'ilk. And when I had a chance to get a set of XT6 injectors.. well I did - way back around the time of that posting as I was in prep for modifiying the turbo wagon and felt it would be wise to have on hand for tinkering iwith... well its still sitting on the shelf as it were. hope that helps. Oh and to add to the stew, i wanna say it was *sticky marked and archived for sure!

Skeet, go to your room, no Internet for you tonight! (LOL) as for the oil leak, the DIY carwash place and spray the bejebus outta the engine bay is a wise choise.

For some reason - I can quite put my finger on it but - I can't find what I was looking for in the FSM's. There was a section on testing the hight control system with the use of the ingition and the switch on the dash. How ever that would intuit that its for the Sedan and Wagon models of GL-10 only and not for the XT6 unless your in Canada :>) - for they are the only country where they put the hight button in the XT6's with air ride suspensuions. The technique was to put switch in normal mode then wait for it to level out with the ingition is full on(just not running) position wait something like 10 seocnds and then turn ignition off then push in the hieght switch and turn ignition back on. wiat 10 seconds then turn off ignition again then push swtich one last time and then turn on the ignition wait till 10 more seconds then reboot. Something about this allows me to see it blink (the LED on the engine MPFI box) to blink at a significantly

the discontinued them ... oh well... the Kuhmo 762's are close enough like them and the Perelli's P4000 are like the other set i got.

Your not the only one who's an atractive, intelligent subaru gal! (couldn't resist so far she's the only gal on this board I've met.) BTW don't worry this is a simple compliment nothing more would be seem in it. Welcome all the same. :cool: Hey "subyluvr2212" Thats one wayyy happy grin, what did you get away with to be shinning that bright a smile??? eh? and the self portrait by "Hocrest" is well, beautiful, makes me actually miss the fall colors from down here in Texas.

eh, no sweat yo! Perelli(sp) Kuhmo both are currently in use on Subies of mine. Both are tires I'd buy again. 80 or 85 are imho too narrow the 75 is as narrow as I'd suggest for this platform on 13 inch rims I tried to get 70's on one brand but they were out thus the 75's on one set of tires. The other is 70's

careful GD, I was wondering Matt, what generation your Brat is? I didn't see a year reference (did i miss it?)... so making a reference to EA81 and the belt that goes around the waterpump is automatically a non-A/c car is kinda snap judgement - wouldn't you agree? Reason for asking it this way is the double V-belt system that EA82's and (correct me on this as well) EA81 isn't it also a 2 V-belt system? As for the water pump it will have 2 grooves on it for both belts to go thru on 81 and 82 engine designs..... I've not seen a single groove pully on a waterpump before but, I haven't ever hunted for one either. Some EA82's: had the ALt right up against the P/S pump. others had the ALT almost touching the Battery. I've even seen a EA71(?) Gen 1 Brat engine with a single pulley system its alt was way the heck up in the air away from the waterpump.... seen here: http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/soob-fullsize/brat-engine-10.JPG

hehehe here's a thought.... more of a hey this is what i did and now its fine. the wagon was a auto tranny (now its a stick) did the starter interupt wires to a manual SPST switch and there is a couple of wires that i jumpered from there and out to the starter with a new relay to the starter's single rear wire( that 14 gauge? one) well haven't had a problem since. esentially ran a new relay to the starters solinoid. make sense? I hope so because now I'm feeling cornfuzzled.

if you want something bad enough, you'll find a way to acomplish it. delayed gratification will ALWAYS taste sweeter then anything else. Save up for the BYB Ozified kit. I am a college student who saved for a year to order one, then about that time "I lucked time wise" into a kit that Brian(west coaster) needed a tranny and so I bought the kit off him and gave him a hookup on a fellow members tranny during his wedding planning stages. Then via time constraints i had to wait over 6 more months till i could find time to install it (not to mention a place to do it at.) last fall and spring i was 15 credit hours and then 19 credit hours all upper level classes to graduate with the double BA in MAy. So, a few extra dishes for the sanity of a well built kit at around 300 clams? I'd sign the dotted line again when I had the money for a second kit - no doubt. Tangent for PKDavis300 I came across an extra one so I promise I will find a box to send off these two "core" steering knuckles" your way.... hopefully before All Hallows eve.

you know.. there was a nice thread on this topic within the last 4 weeks. do a search for it... and i think you'll be happy.

also a thought while'st doing the "tuning up" check the wire connections on stuff that your fiddlin' with. like the Dizzy, starter, and even the grounds.... I'm not talking use a magnafying glass but you know... a reasonable once over see if all the plugs are infact pushed together .....

I beg to differ. But I'm running 185/70R13's currently and the tire fits nexxt to the turbo intake just fine.

would you consider photo documentation of this project? IE showing where you did what? Got a spare one to sit next to the "cleaned up one"?

welcome and wow what a way the start outta the gate eh? lets start a little slower, for the moment shall we? Okay there is a group of wires next to the windshield wiper motor, above the brake master cylinder. there will be (should be) a portion of it that goes down to the tranny with a couple of the one and two wire connectors.(right folks?) Now the next thing is giving a few more specs. year we know its a Brat shall I assume its Carb'd? is it an auto or manual tranny? 2WD or 4WD? that front CV can wait a WHILE LETS GET YOU ALL WIRED UP FIRST. DOES IT IDLE WELL? (oops caplock) Does it start solid? any signs of leaking anywhere or dare i assume its a grimee dirty motor with X miles on it? (puts the "taslking stick" back in its holder)

well brake cleaner does "smart" I have had the ricache spray hit me before. (YEEEOUCH!) But the fanbelt -faceplant was someone I knew in Michigan ... adecade ago....

LOL my version was the "Jesus-grip" or some call it the "Oh$*** handle" you call it:

(when you get time) = "this, I gotta see...."

"clean" ment nothing that could be "accidentally" pulled out by a hand hunting for a "jesus-grip". given the mud slingin' its done that concept of "Clean" wasn't a consideration. (shrug) but anywho.... it's just an idea. All else , you could do the "cop car stunt" drill a hole in the roof centermast, clean it our (deburr it) sealant the surface, stick a grommet over the sealant, and then run the wire thru the grommet and then coat the wires in sealant just before your "set" and flush" then pull them in and its plugged up. Then all you have to do is run a few switches at the rearview mirror and then a couple hot wires up the front window frame rail and your in business! (piggy back the maplight wires. ya know?)