electryc_monk

from the "middle of the road" perspective... dare i assume that as I'm not a "founding father" and am not a "rookie" that i feel comfy with the idea of not keeping a "list" as there does seem to be the pattern of truth that overrides the worries of folks. I grew up with the belief that your word is your honor ... and I still strongly shine that light on anything i deal with. Yeah I do know I can (and am) a space cadet at times.... (not an excuse more a matter of fact) but, I see no real community benifit for have such a list. after all we do have a going list of "who is what ID in ebay" and dare i suggest common sense says that you can look up anyones bay of E name and see their transaction feedback. thats without even asking a boardmember about the truth behind the "joe shmow Show" and whether or not you think you should watch it. so is that coheirent and concice enough? Perhaps i put foot in mouth, eh..... hope not. BTW I still haven't lost faith in the disappearance of a newlywed member.... relate it to my "trusting to a fault" - its my eternal optimism. I refuse to loose hope as well.

and people wonder why i don't wear any jewelry... when your in the navy and fly in a helo and there are ALOT of internal pieces moving in the open inside area of the aircraft... "it's not american airlines folks there ain't any stinkin cabin panels to see and protect you from hydralic fluid of a random snapping of a tail rotor cable!" and also why i keep the blonde loches up in a tight ponytail or even a bun when working around an engine compartment. I've seen what a fan belt can do to a human face for accidentally "catching" those locks others love to play with.....

...That you consider a rear route for wiring it up. Seeing as how I use the trysty ole CB antenna cable out the rear tailgate and thats just it.... the cable dips between the top of the gate and the roof near the hinge. then it runs down along the outside of the seal and at the bump above the tail light section it crosses over the rubber seal "trim" and ducks under the plastic body molding and then it runs out below the plastic trim under the carpeting all the way to the fromt dash. By way of the passenger side seat lower hinge point and then under the seat and then you could run it along the door rail right at the edge of the carpeting and not have to remove the seats just that plastic door fasing plate(those plastic screws that hold it down). too much effort for runing a main high gauge single wire to the rear tail light area and then a couple relays from there to the lights up on top? too much wiring? That way its clean and outta site though.

i didn't have any "pitting" that was physically present after the slight sanding of the gasket off the block. All that was left was the "discoloration" from where the gasket used to be. Now I will admit on the engine blocks that I did have that were toasted I didn't look closely around those areas at all for I was just trying to scavenge the cylinder heads and that's it.

I'd also look at the two main wire connectors *under-near* the alt. for the engine connections too, just for the sake of cleanliness too. After all its just a simple lift of the tab and *POP* the wire tips are visible and checking for corrosion is rather obvious at that point for all - what 7 ? connectors? [ two big 15 and 16 pin, a couple 3 or 5 of the 2 pin type connectors] (reason I'm adding this two or three minute additional look-see is well, that which Calebz got to find on one of his old rides. then I'd take the alt. off the car and run it over to an auto parts place for testing ..... makes me wonder if its the internal/external regulator getting freaky on you.

sooo what was the elivation there? above 4500? btw your both quite photogenic.... AKA the camera likes you

sway bars yes.. many have "upgraded but the size of the bars are different from one model og wagon/sedan to the XT from what I heard. the PS setup ....very interesting i gotta say... if you can and have time I'd set them next to one anouther and see where the steering shaft aligns first in relation to everything else.

auto tranny trivia just got more intense. i read somewhere over the summer that there is a "Standard" for push starting even an automatic tranny as well as a worning for limited towing distances if having to tow on all fours. funnny thing is the ability to use the auto tranny for push starting is 25-35 mph MAX in "D" and the towing in neutral is not allowed over 25 MPH for more then 8 or 10 miles. otherwise dameage is certain in said design of trannies. now about the "neutral stopping..." I'd personally liken it to neutral stopping in a stick..... I have done it many times with many different cars... most notibly the Caddies in the family. no adverse or even negligable problems came of it...and I even talked with different "mechanicas" even asked it in the auto tranny rebuild class at the JC i was in... the teachers reaction. "It won't hurt it, unless your trying to do a neutral drop at a stoplight and THAT will damage it in short order.

thanks XSNRG..... i saw - yes- as you corrected not what was written ... hmmm selective reading on my part? mostlikely the ADHD playing more of a role though...

(evil grin) that reminds me of a story that I witnessed first hand...well mostly anyways. A gal got a piercing (who used to work where Mom did down in Battle Creek, MI) and she drove a "severely mod'd RX-7. yeah... the story will leave you glassy eyed...(LOL) just not like her. :santa:

from the guy's of the BYB forum..... http://www.funonwheels.net/oursoobs/WhtRXTurbo/index.htm just the engine cooling vents on top http://www.funonwheels.net/photos/poweredbywrx.htm cooling the engine bay and the use of an Intercooler as well. I don't mind admitting this but, I would like to have my hood look something similar to tat when finished. and if'n yer want'n the whole story then goto the main site http://www.funonwheels.net/ and then choose the projects and then the L wagon story.

well i had a 400/400TH in a 3/4ton 4WD it was fun (while it lasted) but that crank and flywheel wasn't that big of a deal for us in autoshop class in junior college. The subaru flywheels actually have a oddity that makes me giggle when I read the "FSM" reference you used above. the bolt pappern of a flywheel is a "one way only" install there is a spacing between like 3 of the bolt holes that make it a "fool proof" install if your going to use all the bolt holes - that is. at least thats with all the EA82(T)'s that I've tinkered with. (hmmmmm, makes me wonder what's up in the EA81 and the EJ's..

you can *see* how Calebz and I read it though true? (with that emocon at the end I guess so. anywho no worries now . yeah the proverbial pictures worth a 1000 words kinda got reenforced here. life goes on. and on. and on. and on. Energizers just can't keep up with a human.

the "Smorkle-ectomy as so many here 'lovingly' refer to it as.... their is a three piece set of plastic intake stuff that is mounted to the outside of the framereail area under the plastic fender skirt, this probably is what your refering too, right? I cut the snout off of this intake "Silencer" as its called in the FSM and owners manual. And then stuck this piece i cut (about 3 inches long) backinto the metal intake box thru the frmae and that way the cooler air comes in thru the from underbumpber hole and the plastic fender skirt keeps tire stuff from getting into the intake. I still like the idea of a alum, pvc, ect. intake tube that comes out thru that hole and down to the frnt and has the filter down there. My single concern is the easy access to getting water flooding into it from such a low level with how i drive sometimes in the rain ect.

for what I remember from those that have "skimmed some poundage off their FLywheels" the idle throttle was never brought up as a negative issue, so if SKip (and Bbitner?) and those who have done this before care to update Setright on this and correct me if i'm mis-remembering the theads of your?

i'd of told the guy about this group and seen what his reaction would of been. maybe he would slow down the throw away but, you never know unless you ask....

as for install... IF you don't have playwood then afew or more large slices of corrigated paperboard(FYI 'cardboard') and then use it to slide the tranny under said car for install. first part of install that'd I do is : A.) if auto = attach torque converter to tranny (yes it'll add 35 lbs. to it but, given the environment its a bit less frustrationg then trying to line up the tranny shaft with the orqueconverter at the install angles from underneath the car) if standard = install the clutch parts to the flywheel first then slide the tranny underneath for install. (lumber jack) PUN intended one time i did this solo and had a nice big pile of 2X4 and other lumber pieces laying around the house as the tranny is basically 125 odd pounds its also reasonably easy to tip from side to sideor front to rear (right?) then using the wood and this tipping ability you endup with a low strength method of raising (or in my case lowering and lifiting) of a tranny. for you it would be tilt to the side and stick a 2X4 under the front of the tranny then one under the rear of it. Then sometimes the wood is different sizea so you may have to have a 4X4 that is on its end that would stand up and slide under the front of it(or rear) [up against the pile being built] and then the next piece of wood will go under the front jack pile. Thnik tetris like and your able to do this with only short bursts of energy to "lift" the tranny and then the rest is sliding the wood thru and supporting it admittedly this is slow but if your willing to pretend your doing a "lincoln log build" then it's gonna be fine and at the same time you don't have to worry about it "falling off the jack" or worse hurting the body of the installer. the next style is what was done back in 2000 on the silver gl-10 as seen on the webpage i have. car raised as high as safetly possible and allow the tranny to sit on the nice hydralic jack and be rolled under the front of the car. the we (Trouble and I) slid under the car and stuck the 4X4 plate between the jack and tranny to give us that extra height for attaching it to the engine. (clutch already attached to the flywheel. lifted it up with the jack and then slowly pulled the jack towards the engine and then lifted it the rest of the way over the subframe and then tilted it onto the engine studs... once on the studes we slightly lowered the jack and "trouble" helt the tailshaft as I lowered and then eased the jack toward him. Once it was close enough to the tailshaft support area he held the wood and tranny and i jacked it up and raised the rear of the tranny smoothly. This allowed the tranny to be slid up onto the two lower engine studs and also to have the shifter arms slide into the tunnel hole for attaching to the arms. hows that basicly? Or if your truely sadistic or massachistic (forgot which is which) you could prep the engine and tranny from straight drop out and the only issues to be undone are the hoses, the engine torque rod attched under the spare tire, the ground wires, speedo cable, remove A/C compressor from bracket, disconnect the two big wire looms, take off the 3 nuts for each front strut top, the O2 wire, vacuum hoses and fuel lines, the two ebrake cables (up in the console), and then go under the car and brase it while looosening a total of 12 or 14 bolts from the underside [ 2 engine subframe each side] [3 controlling arm plate bolts per side] [ 1 or 2 per side of tranny support mount] this will effectively allow for that joyious lift kit install. OR (silly grin) the stripping of a car in short order! LOL

The way your post reads to me... please correct me if I miss read it. <quote>"and I drilled a bunch of holes in either side and above the stock intake hole." </quote> You drilled holes in the upper part of the unit .. which is above the filter element? which allows air to bypass the filter to the MAF and straight into the intake???????

the ECU on the rear deck underside to the passener side of the sparetire. has the LED for engine codes. It also does the air ride code ? Or maybe I'm thinking of the Wagon's ECU. SOrry, just this second i realized I'm not sure which car's setup will do the codes. The technique in one involves the turning of the ignition on with the code test pluged in and then cycling off the ignition for like 10 seconds.... if you can wait a couple day's i;'ll be able to look it up in the FSM's and give a page reference AND hopefully a brief reference to the test.... unless someone else is faster. gezzz sorry to get your hopes up.... right off the bat.

yes, you can. there have been several who have done this. you could even (on this board or ebay) sell the working air sturts and related parts too. IF your so inclinded. it's best(IMHO) to do this with the car on 4 jackstands or at least 2 stands and do front or rear at a time then swap to the other half. it's actually a rather straightforward proceedure for the swap from what I have heard for those with Legacy's. The older model's I know from experience is quite easy.

I think that suggesting the use of some smooth grit sandpaper ......(trying to remember the scaling of numbrs) maybe a 400+ grit paper for smoothing the surface and cleaning it would be wise. just be careful if you think of using something like steelewool on cleaning them surfaces.... keep the steel flakes from getting into the different jugs or journals.

when we got it in the car the lifting did do a slight annoyance to the shifters. driving home from Calebz was exciting that night.... i had $WD hi or low only and 1,3, and 5th gears to use. And the steering shaft was off about 30 degrees from center. hehehehe so the arms were removed and placed in a huge vice. WRAP then rubber /plastic parts of the arm in a towel fisrt! then use a piece of "cheater bar" or huge wrench to slide over the threaded top of one of them and bend ever so slightly. do the same to the other shifter arm. Becareful, when we bent the 4WD arm "up" and then slightly straighter... it went to "up" and so with the 5 spd arm bent "back" to a good point the two arms will touch when shifting into second (if in 4WD hi or low). soooo when you bend it go "semi-reinstall it" to see the throw of the arms to see if you bent it enough. i can now have the plastic houseing back on and its fine.... still hunting for a black rubber underboot for my D/R 5spd though......mine is zombiefied and worn beyound fixable now.

lets hope he can "see" it in his car and head from my babling first ..... :-p

IF anyone can scan a picture to back up what I'm going to describe that would be great.... I am looking at the 87 FSM for the spider intake on the MPFI "section 6" in : chapter 6-3 PAGE 10 Figure at top of page. The TPS connector is called E5 which is a black ( 4 pin flat across connector. In the drawing it connects to the firewall side of the spider on the passenger side. the plug is numbered pins 1,2,3,4 (there are fins to indicate top and bottom) [a fin ABOVE pin 1 and 4] [a wider fin BELOW most of pin 2 and 3] 1=R = red = Sensor signal 2=W=white = Power (sensor) 3=B=Black = ground 4=LW=blue w/ white stripe = power (idle switch) the E5 wires go into the E8/F60 connector this is the 15 pin connection plug NOT THE 16 pin plug. (E8 is the engine side of the connection)[F60 is the firewall side of the connection] by disconnectiong the E8/F60 connection; you can see on F60 that the #1 pin is in the upper left corner (standard left to right, top to bottom form)- #1 pin is the LW wire from the TPS(originally pin 4 as above). that being said here is the rest of it F60 #1 = #4 TPS F60 #2 = #3 TPS F60 #6 = #2 TPS F60 #9 = #1 TPS (heads up this changes to G= GREEN along the way) F60 ends at the "control unit." The MPFI box under the rear dash is this "control unit" there are 4 rectangular connectors. Your concerned with T8 and T9. T8 = 16 pins that clip into the MPFI box (2 ribs on top and 8 plugs per row) T9 = 15 pins that clip into the MPFI box (2 ribs on top and 10 plugs per row) F60 (G or R) #9 = #22 pin on T8 (2nd to upper right most pin) F60 ( W ) #6 = #21 pin on T8 (upper right most pin) F60 (BR or #2 = #16 pin on T9 (5th one in from bottom left) F60 ( LW ) #1 = #25 pin on T8 (4th one in from top left) Book 2 Sections 2 and 3 chapter 2-7 page 20 IF you can have access to a Volt/ohms meter then here is the other stuff Resistance between pin 3 and 2 ON THE TPS = 6 -18 Kilo ohms if outside range replace sensor. Resistance between pin 3 and 1 ON TPS : a.) 5.8 - 17.8 Kohms (throttle closed) b.) 1.5 - 5.1 Kohms (throttle open) Ensure Resistance changes smoothly between fully closed and fully open throttle positions. If resistance is outside spec's then replace it. WOW. how about them apple eh Tex?

that not many folks have run across this "disguised" *Early 80's car for what is (cough cough) injected for a closer inspection. http://community.webshots.com/album/93110436xGJecE it's a brumby, the Aussie version of the Brat. The owner did a right nice camo job under the hood too. nuff said? think so.