electryc_monk

HEHE, I found what I was looking for last night. AND its an answer for your question too. Link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42148 Goto post #3 and see the two pictures attached. That's the Spider intake in the GL-10 wagon's bay. This is the same bay with the current TPS issue. Definately NOT the XT6 bay. (thumbs up) Now I hope this clears things up for this thread. OTOH that thread had a few things oop'sed on and man-did I typo(shudders) sheesh. Sorry again folks.

soooo um, Gloyale, where's the write up on the simple connector mod your refering too? How'd I miss that thread? Just my absent-minded luck? Got a link for me please?

1.) I'm just wanting to fix the idle issue and drive it again. 2.) I don't want to spend nearly $300 for a reostat to *fix* it. 3.) if my imagination and a little digging can fix it then great I can maybe help out a little for other too.... just maybe. the whole idea of knowing that parts makers look for ways to cross-platform "multi-user" this sensor or that hose then the bottom line is looking better every time. considering what others have been able to do with that LSD thread for the trannies, hub conversion, susppension upgrades.... and adapter plates out the wazzzoooo..it seems logical that from the BWD, wells auto catalouges, ebay imagery and the FSM's that maybe just maybe the basic Ohms values of the TPS will be nearly the same for many applications. At the very least the connectors are definatly used on a miata from BWD's site for a cross reference on the old part number - go figure.

Well,Gary I forgot to write that I'll be drilling thru the rivets and then cleaning the surfaces seeing as how there was a film of oil on the internal surfaces. 1.) cleaned the unit 2.) checked the Ohms values just like before and found the following values: A - B open 12.26 K Ohm A - B closed 209.1 Ohm A - B Idle to WOT scales down like reostat should B-C open 12.31 K B-C closed 12.31 K B-C Idle to WOT no change B-D open Infinty Ohm B-D Closed 12.31 K Ohm B-D Idle to WOT no change SO I'm of the understanding that the FSM says that no variation on B-D means non-working TPS or did I missread it and my dyslexia interfiered?

OKAY so thanks to the many fine threads of mental activity and the search tool for the forum I'm alot better mentally key'd in to what I'm up against with regards to the TPS - specifically on a Spider intake. the parts site thats not subaru specific http://www.autopartswarehouse.com /tangent There is one thread I'll be link-referencing about 3 pin that is extra stuff I came across in my hunt. the thread link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20086&highlight=throttle an autozone page about testing the TPS: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1c/61/fb/0900823d801c61fb/repairInfoPages.htm on the bay of evil(Skip's favorite name) here are a few possible(three pin) TPS's that may be tested and modified for use on the EA82 plateforms: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330206599752&_trksid=p2759.l1259 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220196948247&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:us http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370019070449&_trksid=p2759.l1259 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-SUPRA-7MGE-THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-TPS-1987_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33557QQihZ014QQitemZ330207603905QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220196295567 BTW I have emailed a few of these items for specific info *IF* they have time for my wide goose chase! Now, the last item may be a 4 pin? /end tangent back to the Spider fix.... i hope the pictures attach okay to show the wagons engine bay well enough regarding the TPS in this issue... we'll see. After a few phone calls and google-searchs: 972-436-0590 huffines subaru parts TPS xt intake 87 and older # 2265aa030 $280.62 88 and newer # 2253aa020 $289.00 autozone adam 972-221-1433 main st. site tps-4038 wells $204.99 oem convert #22633aa030(funny number but thats what he said after I asked if maybe he misread it and told him the dealership numbers) ***special order only auto parts warehouse.com BECK ARNLEY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR -- xt/GL/DL Part #: 158-0498 $40.76 three pins GL-10/wagon part #: 158-0499 $65.53 three pins 87 rx part #: W0133-1653419 $71.95 delphi (supposedly a flat 4 pin) talked to a guy on their number and he assured me that its a 4 pin and that they have no restocking fee and fully refundable if its not the correct part- even though its not able to show me the exact photo. here are the threads I've gleaned info from searching on here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=525427 http://68.178.49.203/jon/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24997&highlight=throttle+position+sensor http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20086&highlight=throttle http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=526389 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83178&highlight=oem+parts+online http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81122&highlight=oem+parts+online ALL This because the TPS on the Spider intake (in the lifted Wagon) has the following data: A-B data: 1.15Ohm to 3.93Ohm B-C data: open or closed it stays at 12.3K Ohms B-D data: nothing at all I'm ready to drill out the two rivets holding it together to see why such a small item garners such a hefty pricetag at the dealership. I think it'll be funny to figureout if its just a couple piece at radio shack... time will have the last laugh though... not me imho.

spline count is the key.... from their site GCK says that the parts needed for the 1988 XT6 5spd MT FT4WD = SB-8016 on all four points. *OR am I a dork* and think this is only about the fronts? Anyone wanna say yeah/nay/chew the cudd? [edit as of 1:33pm thursday] amazon has a list for these as fronts and nothing about rears..... great now what about the rears folks? /sits back down paitiently awaiting wit &/or wisdom :>)

IIRC this project was; like many other 'projects' in here had a significantly discounted side to it. Thus the $6K thought probably *isn't* a true reference point. Now, what is its current status? Depending on the family outcome could easily mean that its a slow progress like other "MadScientisT projects" here and elsewhere. (cheers)

well this is great to know. Reassuringly so. As we drove it around the yard and left it idle for 20 minutes ; then idle again for nearly 30 minutes the smoke was getting *noticably* less so...looks like we have the same luck as you[hooziewhatsit] just described. Gary (sheepish grin) btw, thanks for the thread in xt6 on the sanding of the strut tubes and repainting them.... we shall see as it goes next few days once its tagged and bagged and ready for the road "Legally speaking"....

dude a tranny swap is less hassle and well begger can'tbe choosers either. as for th retrofitment....i'd think the carb'dsetupwould just be the coil wires and the fuel pump like he just said... but hey... that from the experience of the two engine swaps we just did over last week.

OKAY here we have the facts ... itstarted upsmooothlyand idled great... stilldoes. ooops hird a girgle then a hissing sound...discovered the oil feed line to the turbo was on loosely. /tightened it up good and safely torqued added oil lost to the kitty litter. started her up again... still idled good and smooth-nice and quiet...welllmostly anywho.... after a little while looked under again..oh crap! uhhhh (slaps forehead) the oil drain tube from turbo wasn't 100% plumbed into the drain pipe off the turbo.... result.... slow gravity pour of yet another 2.5 qt'sto the kittylitter... letengine cool and went to figure out the vaccum lines on the brat resurection.... fixed? them i guess. went back to the turbo wagon... fixed the hose now that its cooled down...added oil and away we go.... huh now we have white smoke and moist air exiting exhaust.... shut down to look at oil. (scratches head) oil is still clean and pristine.waterlevel still seems fine... today i washed it and let it idle was washing and it still produces a continuous breath of water and white smoke... it did tapper off for a while then came back.... especially when it rev'd to 4000rpms. heres the thing the oil is still great and it still idles really smoothly. there is no discernible "miss"orweekness of engine when reving or at idle. its still super smooth. the gas is over 3 months old and it has taken a slight tap of the foot to get it to start while cranking it two different times. almost every time the qauntity of seconds needed for ignition contact to release of the key was about 2-4 seconds; except those two times i needed to bearlytap the gas peddle. what i'm curious about is: a.) could there be so much water and oil crud sitting in the exhaust system from when the headgasket blew last time that its taken all this time to drain it of the fluid from the heat of the exhaust and rev'ing to force(slowly) the liquids and goup out of the tailpipe? b. Mike and Beth wonder *IF* it could be the possible gaskets that had failed somewhere like the intake? [ mythought is that itcan'tbe the intake gasket gone bad as that would not allow the engine to idle and then it'd eventually die from fowled plugs and soaked cylinders... which would wash-eventually into the crancase oil. right?] c. then you have the possibilty of the headgasket not sealed totally and one of the water jacket ports seaping into the combustion chamber. [ thentalking to self here: then you'd get fluidic wash into the crank case eventually and rough idle and hard starting.] d. the next possible idea was possed by Mike; what about the turbo, the gasket on it or a seal allowing water to be pumped out the exhaustpipe. [this is the one area that I am very curious about, the coolant and oil passages are so close then i'd think there would be a compremise there and thus 'chocolatemilk in the crank case as well? or not? beth just called that she found a bit of thread stuff on "turbo water passage issue" in a archived thread toooo??? it also never got above the 4th baron temp sensor. man I've really been away from subies to long...

(slaps forehead reallly hard) "OH GAWD!" i rarely if ever scroll all the way down. SHEEESH....... I didn't realize-..... (paused) went and read... (paused togo back out side).... Yurika!!!!!! the actual problem was the center input shaft...*IT* was out about 3/4 of an inch too far.... it finally went in and now we are focused on having two subies operational by the end of the day. Okami's Brat restoration/conversion after his roll over and the blue wagon with this 4EAT fun.... Thank you so very Much Guys. (heads back to the garage)

still stuck is the operative phrase... what search terms should i use? I've tried 4EAT 4EAT auto tranny 4EAT transmission 4EAT problem(?) we have two days before the city will be droping by to get this car up and running again. or at least that'smy concern as the city code enforcement dropped by with a nasty gram in the mail onsaturday and well, we'd like to have her "fully operational before the 18th. back at it. thanks ya'll

wow thats funny,i agree with others on which ones i'd do if it was up to me. something esthetically subaru about these lines of color/.

Okay, did a few searches first...found nothing. i don't recall the torque converter shaft sticking out sooo far. Nor did i ever see a outer shaft come out of the tranny with the torqueconverter... well this one just did. backing up in the time line: upon reinstalling engine the torqueconverter didn't 'look right' it didn't look like it was fully flush against the tranny housing... it was sitting out about 1 inch to far out. This was proven correct when we set the starter in its hole and , low and behold the shaft didn't even come close the closeness of the teeth on the torqueconverter. I can't get it to slide all the way in..... (no hammers used yet...) looking at the FSM and it seems to be the pumpshaft(?). I'd even go so far as to say that a small stub of the outermost piece of that shaft for the tranny-oil pump is still stuck to the mouth of the torqueconverter. I'd even bet that it is supposed to stay in the tranny? So when we used the engine craine and hoisted the engine free and clear of the tranny it may have slightly pulled the torqueconverter and that section of shaft out - when it shouldn't of? ========================================================= after thinking and rereading what i wrote, lets try this again. did a search. looked in the FSM, think the Torqueconverter (TC from now on) has a small section of what the FSM calls an oil pump shaft, its stuck in the mouth of the TC. Looking at a TC in a 2.2 sitting in the garage and its mouth is not as tall as this piece. I have yet to put a messuring tape to it but i shall. the removal with the engine craine went beutifully and smoothly, intensionally slow. There was a little tussle with the lower studs getting caught around the base of the TC initially but we lowered it and up she came. when we went to reinstall the engine the bell housings didn't go all the way together. Removed engine from bay once again and discovered that the TC didn't seem to sit flush against the tranny's bell mouth backside. Somuich so that the starter didn't come close enough to touch the teeth if engaged. IIRC in the retracted position the starter teeth are mearly 1/4 to 1/2 inch away. Currently they were almost 2 inches away. so when i removed the TC the outter shaft came out to. IT was a length of 10-11 inches. i think we're in deep kimshee.. what do you all think?

ahhh one of the masters... thank you sir. first the blk one is already massively disassembled and sitting on 4 jackstands... engine is in it IIRC the engine was fine so i'm sure it'd be a smap to yank and wrap and mail it to him *IF* I recall this correctly. Mike (my roomie) had done alot of research and plannin for the swap as he wanted the silver one to be his FT4WD (not AWD) and figured all the ground work out like bolt holes, wiring and stuff. that's why he had gotten as far as he could solo... we were gonna do it together with possibly some help from Calebzwhen he had time as well.... well, two houses later its beed demoted on the list of prioritys in life and need to goto a home that'd get to use it. as far as markets go... i'd even be willing to consider the option of transporting it to where ever for the sincere cost of the fuel to transport it to its destination... i'd even consider options not yet thought of too. so the silver is drivable and the black was too... but the front end is dropped out of it, i know there is a spare 3AT in its trunk as well as the 2WD4eat installed in it still. so i hope that clarifies the situation... man i wish i was in denton now to go looksee and validate the situation... that will occur soon enough.

i have a few FSM's one is the datum points for the XT6 and i remember a few years backusing rulers and tape measures to see if the turbo wagon I have was close enough to do the mod's well..... we might be talk apple and oranges here my friend

obvious now...umm not yet... still trudging thru her and there ...

so, let me get this straight. An xt6 lift of the 3 inch or 4 inch style would be just about $400 then aye? hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. [bump] while i rethink bthe other post i made about the mod'ing of the 2 xt6's.

last i heard the wildfires came a knocking and it made his life a living hell.... what happened to the wonderful family man? anyone know what the future holds for a legacy or forester liftkit in the USA these days?

yeah i'm back, i've had a few events...but, that's anOT thread if you think i should... but i was trying to do a hey what'sto going theme these days with the 6's. i don't want to recycle a blah,blah,blah if its needed somewhere... even if its a "at the cost of shipping only" because i don'twant to waste the stuff if it can be planned out with some effort...i'mnot expecting it to be 100% savable..just working towards a reasonable effort here Turbone....you know what i mean... i feel like i have talked in circles now.(shrugs)

so with the developement of this sub group to the forums.... that makes me think i have a chance now to findout the measurements of a VWdiesel or TDI engine and then bellhousing to see what mod's will need to be for installing a turbo diesel onto a 4WD lifted subie so i can run diesel and other fuels in it. especially with the knowledge that the new german made 6spd al;uminum tranny in the new jeeps i think a benz diesel engine and tranny from a jeep and dump it in a subie with its significantly lighter wieght would make for alot of fun to me....

project stocker revolution. originally this was Okami's and he was going to do the conversion but has way to much on his(and his wifes plates). so I'm thinking the three of us will do the conversion and then get the silver one re-registeredand then offer it for sale in a best offer arena. but, drive it in the meantime..... and I could even offer to transport for a modest fee.... of course the left over metal carcess will be hacksawed up and recycled as the rust is too far into the subframe and structural areas.... especially the aluminum. so what should the fellow recyclers suggest we do when we do the swap? does this seem reasonable to offer up for dialouge the direction of this project? any comments from the peanutgallery at large? for clarity 2 xt6's: blk 4wd 4eat; bad rust, really bad rust silver 4eat 2wd; no real rust silver convert to 4wd? and offier up the other major parts cheap? offer both as is? do the blending as part of an offfer with all the stock swap? suggestions? i'm half tempted to just do the swap and then put a sticker for it in craigslist and a few different subie sites... i want to apply to grad schools this summer. and we'd like to use the funds from this and a few other items to be placed in the hands of others allowing me to achieve other vehicular goals....

Thanks be to Tomrhere, Calebz and Okami(and crew) for the phone calls... looks like it runs finally. somehow it was a combo of a few things but, the most exasting thing was that the Jacob's I.C.E. system seems to be dieing/died during this mess and that's gonna have to be delt with much later. So safe to say it drives. and drive okay. just need to do a weee bit of adjusting to the dizzy then i'm gonna take a run to see the battlecreek family then return to beaverton as the "breakin" run..... then head for texas within two weeks from now - iguess. (lowers head in humble, mental exhaustion)

(gentlemanly bow) Thank you kind sir.{MorganM}

Hello Oddcomp, nope I don't have a pitch rod. Haven't had one in since the liftkit install either. Oh BTW the Intercooler isn't going to be a top mount now... its going to be frontmounted. But, I am desiring a strut support bar in the not to distant future. and IIRC i posted a rough jpeg of the enginebay as it was a week ago - in process of install.