electryc_monk

GRRRRRR (sorry but this is the short version... I got a 404error when i just tried to send this lengthy message so here is the short of it.... from initial purchase of this wagon (reference the geocities page showing the first mod's done to this wagon) and the MSN phot gallery of the lift install... It's either at the 6th or 7th stage of resurection (depending on a point of reference) so I'm trying to figure out a new name for her as Silver D/Ragon isn't truely fitting anymore as its got the XT6 S/R in it now. And now for the question: As an initial idea I'm using muffler steel pipe to fab-up the route and lengths of pipe for the FMIC and figured on using Schedule 40 PVC as it'll easily handle the small PSI increase from the factory turbo and the heat of an enginebay. I am going to use some metal pipe for the first few inches off the turbo but.... why not use the PVC for to -and-from the intercooler? Or for that matter whynot frm the air cleaner to the turbo too? If nothing else I'm able to to temp. (how long?) run it with the PVC it seems logical after all the airtemp.s in the piping shouldn't get anywhere above 200F. right? Lastly I'll be finally wandering back to tejas when she's unp and ready....sooooo about a month from now...i guess? later i'll do an update to my LJ too and bring things current with the knowledge gained from Bio-diesel and waste veggie oil conversions that I've had the benefit of learning from....

geee i have this wonderfully "just right sized" piece of 6X6 timber that sits on the jack for tilting the block and lifting it *just so* for alignment onto and sending the two bellhousing bolts thru the tranny; sure enough the engine mounts also usually just slide right into their holes... with little "persuasion*...but that is not the typical history for me.... Craven can atest to that last year and folks like Okami and Calebz can also atest to the fun in Texas....

for what its worth, a huge hug of "your alive and kicking" this is wonderful...albeit late... A dear friend of mine in Denton had a similar event occur with his Brat and he was also lucky to walk away.... (bows head for a moment) if your ever interested in resurrectionBrat2... that I might have a line on a gen1 that's been sitting at a friends place since 1996.... if your curious i ave a page dedicated to it on my geocities page.

{edited} i hit send twice ...oops.

Geee on the bluw wagon engine revamping... i used Moly-B grease applied with an acid brush to the top of the HLA and the under side of the Rocker Arms.... then i easily put the cam tower on and had a easy go at it. oh and i even had a thin film of Moly-B on the top machined surface of the rockers and the cam lob's too. just for good measure.

smog worries? IF your gonna do a spider swap then here's the simple factor that caleb was tossing your way.... If you have an 87 vehicle then the wiring will plug n play.. if your car is an 88 or newer then its fun with but-connectors or wire splicing funn at the two main connectors. yes there are a few other issues with wires and timing and belts.... and I'm gonna get slapped for this i'll bet but, anywho - here goes.... I'm wanting to sit the spider setup on the block but i'm thinking i can keep the v-belt pullies for now as the A/C system is chargered and presumably still cooling when engine is put in. Instead of going to the serpintine system and having the A/C system gone thru and all that..... afterall i still have the skin-mod's to do too stilll.... (yeah i can hear both Caleb and Mike's clan wndering when I'll be back to tejas.) I'm beginning to feel a tinge of guilt.. can ya believe that?

well how about this for starters.... I have been in telephone tag with Bruce at "Freedom Motors" on a diesel-hybrid idea for about 6 months now... did the email only route for the first 5 months due to the trucking company time it finally can to me calling the office and getting him *in his office one day* and he remembered my email idea - only because it came back to him undeliverable anywho they are currently in production testing with a contract for two significantly smaller units that will be diesel powered. And charge cooled. The oddity is they are going with 9.0:1 ratio and electric assist ignition. The fact that LPGsuperchargerdbrumby(sp) is the *downunder* voice to chime in along with okami and I (outta texas) and my step dad up here in michigan.... no one else seems to know of/ vocalize or have thought about the implications of a 1300CC twin rotor or 650cc single rotor N/A diesel rotory engine. He told me that if an investor would help with about $150-250K then they could whip-out a 650cc or 1300cc diesel system too but alas i'd have to pony up about $7200 for a 1300cc engine or about $5200 for a 650cc rotory engine for testing/R&D-ing. Of which If i had about 5-8K more in aside I might consider jumping at it anyways..... I have a few tidbits that he emailed me and that He's willing to keep in touch so i figure in a few months I'll call him again to see what's going on with the developement that *isn't ready for the news*.... as for the 1300cc weighing in at about 120lbs and the 150HP that is N/A system..wild eh? But that's petrol not diesel. :-p now to go look at the links y'all have shown here....

okay rough reply: two sections of tubular (square) steel approx. 4"X4"X7'(or less? as its the width of vehicle in mind) each piece of steel is a cross bar "pinch-plated to the tractors two frame rails. 4 pieces of ramp (two for the vehicle to be strapped to in "piggy back fashion on the rear of the last tractor) and the other two to be used as actual ramps up onto the strap-down ramps.... then stored(bolted) to the sides of the ramps that are bolted to cross beams... there thats the steel design i saw in person that fellow was using for his minivan for this same purpose and the whole setup he welded together weighted in about 600 lbs.... hows that now? (i hope its less jumbled) I'm looking at useing two sets of aluminum ramps from a company that has been making them for some time... or someone recomended that might be cheaper??? and that way shave off a few hundered pounds of steel for a 100 or so pounds of aluminum? shade and sweetwater, electryc monk

<delurking mode><activated engine brake> So i have a question not to be a surprise but, "surprise": If someone has used a home made or "thule" rack setup of just a couple or a few trim mounted pieces ...say 2 oe 3 and would anyone offer up a weight limit for the total roof rack for safety sack? I'm working on a kit design for hauling one of my wagons "pigyback style" on the back of one of the tractors I'd be *hauling/moving* from where ever to whereevere... And I have a weight from a fellow driver who uses this idea with his minivan and its an all steel setup that weighs in at just over 600 lbs. so without further ado i think i'll goto bed and update more tomorrow i guess.

looks like its definately time to plan a rebuild now. If I'm gonna have to take the head off and put a new one on due to the : valve assm. or HLA not holding the rocker arm in place long enough as it popped right back out again when i got it to start. I guess I'll be planning a spring time removal and rebuild of the engine. Est cost (not including my labor): set of heads (got them still in the bags) $80 gasket set(Approx?) Spider intake (got it in Tx stored currently) IC from starion (in tx and one tube left to be welded for it to be installed too) $45 shop supplies (this and that) When to do it after the spring thaw... And now for the silver wagon to sleep a long nap till springtime for me to do a proper rebuild on her along with other accessories that have been long in planning and funds will be fully ready for it... time well spent - then....(sigh) well its dinner time. On to other topics...

well i got the car back from the shop. and it was running a bit rough. GUESS What......Yess-sirreee bob. Went to take Larry(step Dad) out for a ride to make sure my brain was thinking the same possibilties with regard to the "Feeling" of a miss, or clogged fuel injector or maybe the timing wasn't "just quite right".... Well, mildly got on it leaving the driveway... and *POP*! sure enough that HLA/Rocker Arm. Just did its thing again. So I guess tomorrow AM I'll start her up to warm it all up(and the garage). Then take the valve cover off and put it back in. However I dare think that the previous advice of using MMO is now a necessity before i yank the engine out entirely and do a head swap. Because if this rocker arm is popping out in the cold weather then....... something is seriously needing overhaul or at the least a HLA needs taking apart and cleaning and reinstalling... which means that I'll need to at least take the cam tower off to do this. Now am I babbling too much? IS this sound judgement talking here? Man I sure do miss being in Texas and in college... I could just throw her up on stands and even in this time of the year put on a coverall and long pants and I'd be set... but tonight forcast means another night of subzero temps..... BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. not fun...really, not fun. but hey. its a part of life and a solid character building experience eh?

no it was in fine shape... it just "popped out"..... wierd huh?

Ahhhhhh okay so that's the cylidrical metal unit that has a "ball hitch" looking top to it.... that's the odd thing, i was letting it warm up slowly as it had't been driven in like nearly 4 weeks, so i was being very calm and letting it warm up...it didn't even get above 3500 rpms at the time it made the now obvious pop that allowed the C-F to fall out. Well i did as suggested.... remembering a physics buddy stunt from a few years back when he had to put some new lower ball joints in his late 80's buick regal... he got a can full of liquid Nitrogen and poured it on the old ball joints base and then tapped softly with the hammer, and "boink!" out popped the rusty ole ball joint... cooled it off so much it shrank enough to allow it to be dislodged even with the gummed up rusty surroundings holding it at bay. /tangent this is what allowed me to think... okay it was -6F last night so the metal C-F sitting on the floor(in the clean rag) will be nice and smaller now... maybe the cold engine will also give enough room? -nope... so i put the cover back on... started up the engine and brought it gently to a near operating temp.... let the oil drain back down... popped the cover back off, jacked the car up a bit more.... found a couple "L" shaped screwdrivers and went to work. found one to brace against the cam rough area and push down on the spring's cap... the very cold C-F went on further just after a couple hours of cold testing...well now it took a little more finesce and (Snap) it was back in place...... (valley gril accent)"Like..ohmygawd, it in!" hand cranked the flywheel around slowly with the huge screwdriver on the teeth and watched the lobe and C-F work.... sure enough... it stayed put.... buttoned it back up and started it... let it idle up to normal temp and then a few more minutes to make sure all metal was equal temp. and then slowly bliped it to 2500... fine...then 3100....still fine...cool....then just over 4000 and its still fine... "Cool" so now i'll try her on the road tomorrow when there is sun light.... brother and sis in law are here so .... thank ya'll and i'm gonna go socialize with the family... good night.

soooo what's your luck with speculations on the market? Futures? or have you any luck with "Who shot JR?" (slygrin with chuckle) :-p

i admit the first thought was, "i wonder what would happen if i just try to stick this back up in there....." and the rocker arm was still "in one piece" i didn't see anything "cracked or missing". As for comparison... looks like I'd have to loosen/remove the cam tensioner pully/ cam cover so that the cam can be stuck back in place...right? [ of course marking the pully and teeth for exact reindexing to reduce the headache.. use moly-b to hold the rocker back in place and all that... but seriously that's getting ahead of the game here... would you mind refreshing my memory, I can't figure out -for the life of me- what the HLA is? Hydralic Lift actuator?

(looks around innocently) you know about that old military saying, "Loose lips sink ships." Right???! wellll on that note... I'll just sitback(with regard to the ID of owner *AND* troubleshooting of UltimateRX) and take someone elses advice... "take care of my own backyard for starters." I think I've said it before but, it bare repeating for sincerity(sp) sake this project is just one of many; why I have an obsene amount of respect for the benefits this board has fostered over the years. (growing paine expected, learning curves anticipated, patience given routinely, and tough love expressed when necessary) oooops sorry... /tangent ends.

drive r (cyl 4?) = approx 100 PSI (needle barely appeared to go over 100)drive f (cyl 2?) = approx 100+ PSI (needle mimic'd the #1? cyl) So the possible list from above post just got smaller. The lift kit significantly easied my frustration. so it was just a matter of: [X] move air cleaner out of the way [X] deal with the dripping melting snow sludge stuff [X] work around the PS lines, Turbo oil, and coolant lines and {Pop!!!} the valve cover came off smoothly with one oddity wanting to leap at me..... the rear most rocker arm laying in the bottom of the valvecover area. At first glance my brain when "HUH???" because the valvestem, retaining clip, and valve spring "looked" to be the same height as the intake next to it...as the intake did not appear to be touching the cam lobe. So can anyone say, think, shoot in the dark, guess-timate, know for certain, insert wisdom here, what may have caused this? Given the previous posts I'm inclinded to think my eye's misjudged the spring height and position so that it would be a sleeve that "colapsed" or is it more correct to say "swallowed a valve seat" like Milesfox suggested????????? well that's all for now.

Compression check technically 1/2 done but, found the trouble maker! (going from memory here as my manual is in texas at the moment) :>) [pass r] || [drv r] [pass f] || [drv f] pass r (cyl 3?) = approx 5? PSI (needle actually attempted to move) Pass f (cyl 1?) = approx 100 PSI (needle traveled least to the 100 marker) dr side haven't done yet, i may go back outside to pop the vavle cover and test the drivers side in a few minutes. So to possible the list from y'all and what i was talking with the family and friends about yesterday plus.... burnt valve broken spring lifter collapsed rounded cam lobe valve seat fell in All of these can be checked from just removing the valvecover. thankfully i remember the rubber gasket is compressible to a 4.4-6.7? PSI tork spec. so its just a matter of: move air cleaner out of the way deal with the dripping melting snow sludge stuff work around the PS lines, Turbo oil, and coolant lines yeah i just made it look more opressive then it really is.. i'm just thinking err typing 'aloud' here. So if it is one of the above then the cam tower will need to be removed to fix if its mearly a "out of adjustment or a retaining clip on a valvespring or something like that? Other wise it'll be a head removal and then it'll be a fix the valve... *IF* this is the worst case situation then..... i'm glad i have a few things in storage then huh? {Items in storage awaiting proper time to install: starion IC, Ag HG, EGT gauge, oil cooler(needs the adapter to the block though), and invest in the header???} looks like those Pug's will wait a little longer eh Calebz and Okami (and clan)???

speculation here man: Considering the strut(spring) mount for the rears of the XT6 and GL wagons are "appearantly very similar" then wouldn't the design parameters give one the inconclusive hunch that the piece would also be a split-apart 2 piece hub assembly for the XT6 rear? flaw in my perceptions? thoughts, suggestions, dumb jokes????

Okay given the history of this car... For the last 7+ months she's been running about one tank of gas every 2-3 weeks... usually in one day as its a 1.75 to 2.25hr drive to Grand Rapids, From Beaverton. And for the last 2+ months in dire need of and finally got the clutch swap. Well, due to time constaints the ignition seemed to get slightly outta wack when the tranny was reinstalled with the new clutch setup (XT6 kit).. and she ran kinda rough down to Grand Rapids... I took the manuals with me to parooose while out for the following weeks and would drop them with CrazyMike(elsewhere) ermm, Okami (ID here) so He (his family)and Calebz(when time permits) and me(when next i get to Tejas) can help with the strip-age of the XT6 in storage.... well i thought i had it figured out that it was out of timing..well.. driving it to the house in Beaverton, i had a wired "pop" noise happen... and well, I am sorry to have to admit but, i can quite be ceretain if it was a pop sound or not but, now it has a *VERY* mechanical(metallic) backfire/backpressure sound that screams from the intake on excelleration. SO... I'm gonna list the possibles I'm thinking about at this point given that today i finally felt enough energy had returned from the truck-driving/carbon monoxide excitement i've had recently. The engine idles now beautifully and the timing its set at approx. 15-18 Degrees BTDC ...well its the scratch marks i remember seeing from the last heavy engine work down over 1.5 years ago on this car. Worst case: broke a valve/ swallowed a valve next level: cam not seating valve anymore/ weak spring next level: cam wheel skipped a tooth on one head next level: timing still not correct next level: i'm loosing my remaining marbles. next level: 6th level of Dante's inferno So i know this sound is actually acousitcally eminating from the pass. side head area, that tells me its cyl #1 which is at the front(closest to the front bumper) of the block right? okay now i think i'll turn in and get some shut eye.... merry xmas folks and what a beautiful -10F. clear night out it is currently hope yours will be a beautiful 25th morning and remainder of the weekend too.

welcome, seasoned greaslings' and alll that moly-bean dip to go around the halls! Looks to be a Conn. uprising eh folks? that's a few new ones I see here from that fair state now huh?

(shakes head side to side at the two of you 3 letter "ID's") as for the bored out 2.1Litre idea.... aside from 'paperthin sleeves, i think one carry over from a previous thread(circa about 12-18 months ago atleast) i would also expect to convert the head bolts to head studs. right??? Oh and i would assume(uht ohh) that the piston head surface is suitable for valve travel in the EA series heads right? And lastly... from this point i would for my curiousity sake ask what actual quantity of diameter is the difference between the pistons? in mm if you can swing it anyways... oh and BTW (points out window) I just saw a siloette cross over the moon in our totally clear sky... it was this most odd image of antlered herbivores and a sled with a chubby figure wriggling in it... you know I'd sware the lead animal had some odd light affixed to its nose. anyone else see such a thing around midnight?

I've suggested that site for a long while now..... and as for your warning..... the other aspect is that i had come to realize... approx 50% of the sites (in my experience) are of the thype of JY that doesn't regularly check their email and their 800 number is the best bet. i'm currently searching for air ride struts for both types of cars

WOOOHOOOO! Craven you rock! Thanks a bunch big guy. after a little frustration and some jostling.... its in place. Now to put all the small nuts and bolts back together on the shifter arm, rear driveshaft, yada,yada,yada.....

I have used both Hella 500(550) series and the Bosch fog lights. I take the black shield out of the housing andf then reinsert the lightbulb and the area of illumination is fantastic at either 55 or 100Watts. I'm baised toward the gold hue'd lights...my eyes use it better then the white lights. go figure. the baosch are typically under $50 for the kit. the last set i got were on sale at $36 i think. The Hella's are typically around $65 IIRC.... caio