electryc_monk

Hey Troy err I mean Pot, Hi, I'm Kettle.

mixing synthetic with petroleum *grease* i would think would be survivable and safe, as mixing oil's is fine in the crank case. Its just that the oils being a significantly thinner and different refinement would show its weakness faster I would think. As for grease blending - I'd think it would be safe and fine. If you had one type and the bearings are *in* and you want to wait till "springtime" to then pull the hub and clean and fully repack with synthetic grease as a "better safe then sorry feeling". that would give "us all" plenty of time to chew the cud on the limitations of a grease - be it the dino varieties and the synthetics or the blends of them in one bottle/can. Now if I was in your shoes would "I" use the synth? Sure. I'd just do a few "neat freak" preping steps first. using one clean cloth rag first, then paper towels and q-tips the rap would be twisted up in a "rat-tail fashion" pulled thru the hub. Then wipe the excess greasefrom the outer areas and then Q-tip the inside ring of the seal. "Now I'm not talking clean enough to eat off of. Just so that its got a nice reasonable clean area to start close to fresh with the new stuffcaoting the whoe area nicely. there does that sound to excessive to anyone? Oh and while I was at it, the hub would slide right onto the halfshaft and then I'd put the wachers and castle nut back on it (finger tight) then sit the hub on its ball-joint as the DOJ slid onto the tranny output shaft....that way ou don't do what I have done several times before (in an attempt to short cut) - get dirt and crud onto the fresh layer of grease in the lip of the seal and bear area. sooooo hows that work? anyone else see error in my follies?

[yawns and reaches for morning Hot Tea w/honey] Okay your asking a very direct question. I shall do my best to be as direct as possible. that *site* lists these greases (my thoughts here): Aluminum Complex = (isn't this the "anti-seaze" for bolts?) (the following are not realized by my sleepy brain as yet.) Barium Calcium Calcium 12 Hydroxy Calcium Complex Clay = (Drawing a blank on this based design) (The following three I would think are more for the chain stuff in bikes and motorcycles and rollerskates and skateboards) Lithium Lithium 12 Hydroxy Lithium Complex (again I'm drawing a blank) Polyurea As for what *I* have used and still do ..... laymans terms follow: Axel grease AKA General purpose grease AKA packing grease This is the paper/aluminum fold wrapped tubs of grease the size of a small planters peanut tub. Usually close to $1.99 at auto parts stores. Or Moly-B-dum grease in similar sized tub's. Okamiichibahn's Brat (used to be Zap's?) has hubs that are filled with a special sauce. Marine drive unit grease. This stuff I'm very interested in using on the wagon when I convert to the 5 bolt setup and put new seals and halfshafts in the wagon. So.... hopefully you have been answered as good as possible from my still awakening state. But, I'm sure the likes of the Bratpatrol, Chef_tim, Skipper, and the rest of the Wiseman (and women) would jump to finish this info-clarification your hoping for. I'll admit that I didn't go google for backup as I need to get ready for a few things in my ownbackyad.... ya know what I mean?

So SKip's a Conjourer and created a Subaru for crossing the Ocean Blue? Did he color it too?

here are TWO wagons (EA82) with the rear thingy that *I* think your talking about http://groups.msn.com/USMB/electrycmonk.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=942 and the main page with the index of all the pictures as well: http://groups.msn.com/USMB/electrycmonk.msnw and the obligitory with (silver) and without (blue) http://groups.msn.com/USMB/electrycmonk.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=967 another member's with http://groups.msn.com/USMB/hatchpatroltreerun2003.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=1083 and another members without the thingy on the rear deck top: http://groups.msn.com/USMB/hatchpatroltreerun2003.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=1065 and here is "toby's" upclose and angled view http://groups.msn.com/USMB/tobyssoobampstuff.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=653

I think I might be able to help in second place..... the only "hurdle" we have to jump is finding out how to ship to germany without incuring taxes or rasing "the eyebrows of the homeland security folks". just a thought ya know. (edit notes follow from viewing your site) the Coupe' has headlight washers! and that sedan has some very unique (I've not seen that design before) rims on it. what are they? the 89 superwagon has air ride and that was some serious interior teardown pictures wow!

I would suggest that you also think about this like lego's with grease involved. your just removing a few items to swap out a single piece, wiping the area clean or a good power wash at the DIY carwash before swapping will minimize the crap that might get into the grease of the hub's bearing areas. and then add some more to them and a little in the seal for good measure.... but them I'm being repetitive now and so I'll stop. after you do this once the other side will be easier and you'll find a "pattern" to make it less frustrating onyourself too. have fun dude!

me thinks the data is the same, but not certain if the question is using the actual info or not. OHV engines were the EA61 (1400cc?), EA71(1600cc?), and EA81 (1800cc) aka 1781actual cc's = 1.8L OHV engine the EA82 is the OHC (IIRC) = 1.8L which is also a 1781cc engine so to ask if the 1.8L OHV and the 1984-88 OHV are different I'd believe they are one and the same. How ever as I'm not sure how *old* you rrefering to then I guess we will wait and see if the Old School folks like the Hatch Patrolers and Subaru3 down here in Texas will chim in with the correct info as I'm sadly lacking in that datamine.

There is one particular thread I am apart of on one of the http://www.ausubaru.com forums(the new name for the byb's) (in the conversions folder! BTW its only supoosedly 10mm thick so you can run a EA82 flywheel with elongated (dremmel is the word they use) holes on the center crank bolts. I am personally awaiting a forwarded email with the documents for this "adapter plate" as its gonna be a bit still for some reason.......

current situation to older situation in that order...follows. NOW). EA82T / EA82 4WD flywheel / XT6 clutch and Pressure plate with XT6 FT 4WD 5spd (w/Diff lock) previous stage.) EA82T / EA82 4WD flywheel, clutch, PP, D/R 5spd previous stage.) EA82T / torque converter 4EAT (tranny died) If I had more time that day and sunlight too, the flywheel would of swapped as well. Bummer too as the XT6 clutch has more springs on it and the 4WD clutch that i had ordered back in ......97? was from subaru and ended up being the same size as the XT6 cltch disc size..... so.... heres a odd note.... over the last year and a half those 10-12 times i "smoked the clutch slightly" I was assuming it was because i had the "smaller" 7 7/8 sized clutch and not the larger sided one...... well I have not yet tried to see if I can this clutch to slip as I'm still getting used to it. Need to make the first "project" i do when i arrive inMichigan is to fabricate up a vaccumm solenoid setup out of the extra air slenoids from the air ride system for a Diff Lock controller as I'm not going to be able to find a functional setup anytime soon to pull from an Xt6 or wagon anytime in the forseeable future.....

rosco theatre Gel material. Able to withstand serious heat from 100+W and higher hal. bulbs for hours at a time. I think you'll find that their ranbow of colors is worth a looksee. as for what to do? Get the little bulbs out of other dashboards and slide the little green rubbers off the bulbs for your lights okay?

been there done that and geeked it up a notch yo! sitting in drivers seat you have several screws to deal with..... lower the steering wheel to maximum place. for use of space with screwdrivers. I recomend the short stubby type for several of these screws especially the top two for the dash upper lip. there are two short screws into the top lip (dash's sun visor). The A/C control for DEF and OFF if you use a small flat blade screwdriver to pop off those buttons then the screws on that side will become obvious to remove. Same position and technique for removing the left side section except one twist. The lower left is still there but the upper right corner is true diaganol as the temp. slider isn't in the way. There are a few screws under the vents, and rear view mirror control. then the housing pop's off. The actual dash is still screwed in by 4 goldish(in color) on the tabs they are very visible to see, the long screw driver would be best here only. once done, then you can unplug the clips on the backside and the speedo cable connector. ...on the back side of this unit you can then slowly unscrew the the clear cover and then the translucent flat piece too.... the little lightbulbs are under these two plates. try that on for size. Some assembly required, your results may vary, some settling due to shipment,batteries not included.

"Gawd forbid be go the wrong way on an unsantioned track." LOL and it was at 7:58 PM? (smirks)

well we have a spider XT Turbo intake with a very obvious EGR on it. Pic can be had within a few days i supose

(tip o' the hat to Thee Skipper) IF your "REAR" is a deflation related to water then there is two possible culprits. 1.) the O-ring around the solioid that is bolted(2, 10mm bolts) directly to the rear strut with a silicon grease its subaru part # is 21069GA070 the dealership here in Lewisville charged $6.80 for a single O-ring 2.) the airline which connects to the other side of the solenoid is a plastic tube with a rubber O-ring that is "part of" the hose so my suggestion with it is to softy move/ bend slightly the four clear plastic tongs and pull out the hose and clean out the tube and clean off the hose. As for the rein stallin gof the tube into the connector I once one one wagon tried to see if a clear or blue silicon sealant in a very thin film over the tiny O-ring then push the tube back into the solenoid. Then as it says to let the sealant skinup and dry do that so... let the car sit overnight if possible and then air it up after the silicon has cured. I had great sucess with this "temp fix" that admittedly is still holding some 2 years later as I am just remembering that I had done this back them (shrugging grin) as for the fronts the "O-ring" is in an entirely different place (in the top of the sturt tower). keep Skipper and I accessible he has a couple more years experience then I of course. (wink) BTW have a Merry holiday season as well and of course be safe.....

do a search for "Air ride" or "air strut" on this board and the xt6.net board as well. here is the info I offered from what I lad learned from other members and a FSM over the years.... http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4189&highlight=air+strut and the search list too for ya.... http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=24710&sortby=title&sortorder=descending and the other forum : http://xt6.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=1 http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1558 of course the search engine there is also good for the help too and you don't need to be a member to search from what I saw. cheers, happy holidays and best of luck.....

some of them are thicker then you'd expect. fortunately for the Subie's they don't have the Vaccuum actuated headlight covers that Mom's '69 charger does. I upgraded her low beams to H4's and had to do a little work to get the covers to close properly again because the lens was just a bit thicker. :>) FYI anyways. :>)

I'd highly recomend a light acid brushing of Moly-B grease on all the oiled surfaces when you reassemble it. life is so fun as long as we can all hopefully get along.....

its a Fizix Thang! (AKA its a physics thing, and welll, as its been a lulu of a semester for me and stufff) You see Skip-ster and I have a little kin-ship of sorts for scholastic endeavours. Physics and well, there may be a year or two between us.... I went into the military first..... anyways. Centripedal force or angular momentum. I personally like the "big Omega" but, the seat of the pants prefer the centripedal experience. Especially when one can safely drift the car thru a corner and not disturb a bee keepers hives. (whistles to self, wonders off to bed)

its summertime. its the 1970's(late 70's) and your wearing Polyester slacks and shirt in the summer sun shine of say ... the southern U.S. Now its the current year, same time of season, summer, same geographic location and your wearing a pair of loose jean shorts, and a long sleeve cotton shirt. which will retain some heat, which will retail the most heat? Now that the bad visual metaphor is done, radiators dot com have the $129 ish 2 core (ask for it) and its shippped right to ya and there is a warrantty too. the one core is half as think so its half as effective and extracting heat.

Me thinks I see an oops. That looks an awful lot like the clutch and pressureplate and throwout berring........

the neutral safety switch I will pose this question to the masses...... is not just for breakfast anymore....... What mean is; that its also a part of other curcuits of oporation, think about this idea: cruise control. If there wasn't a sensor that showed the cruise the clutch was ingauged then its not gonna engauge the cruise throttle control, same goes if its not in gear so if its in neutral then the curcuit is also used for that too. Anyone else think that this is also feasible?

section 3-1 MT and diff page 59 fig.137 1.) (LH) side reverse lights 2.) (LH) Neutral safety switch 3.) (RH) Diff lock pilot switch (Directly bellow the arm on the pass. side) these all apear to be 2 wire connections .... now to figure out what the connector is in the rear of the tranny (not the sides) it may be the VSS? Still looking in the FSM of the section 2 and 3 manualfor specific info but not yet found...

No more like a fantazy for me with this silly idea. (Sorry for tangent) imagine an Xt6 with a "newblood" transplant. The 3.0 H-6 Turbo'd and IC'd in its place. That too whould be hot and hard to handle eh Dennis? as for the XT-4 turbo? YEah its doable and been successfully done in Assieland too.

ITs been below 40 and raining the last 2 days. and well, I don't have any "Real" cold weather gear with me here currently, its all up in Michigan. :>( so I wasn't into laying on cold cement in shorts and a wind breaker and looking at the 4EAT. hopefullt this weekend will be what its "threatening to become." WARM.