J A Blazer

Not sure about that. I thought 95-99 was Gen1, 2000-04 was Gen2, 05-09 was Gen3, and 10-current is Gen4.

General consensus appears to be that if you're not going to spend the money on OE, then Marshall Wolf is the only way to go.

Important point is that the in order to remove these endlinks, there can not be any torsion on the antisway bar at the point when you try to remove them.

Where do I find ECU connector B136?

I raised this very question with my glass installer while he was doing the windshield on my 2000 OBW because my rear window is scratched. He said the rear window is quite expensive ($600 or so) and can only be obtained from the dealer; no aftermarket suppliers.

Depending on rust and trauma you may or may not be able to remove the bulb from the back, but after 10 years I suspect that you will have to remove the entire assembly. It is held in place by two bolts which you approach from the front and which are directly above the fog light. There is a third fastener which you approach from below and behind, and which is one of those two-part press-fit plastic thingies.

On a lark I called one of my local dealers and asked how much they would charge to replace my front ball joints. Answer? Approximately $750! Insane! But to his credit he did say that he doubted that I need them; they rarely fail; other parts usually go first, like wheel bearings and lower control arm bushings. But seriously, $750? Parts are $30 per side, and I bet any dealer mechanic can R&R them in an hour.

Here is the answer to getting the ball joint out of the knuckle: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=739363&PartNo=BJR1&group_id=675664&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

Having done this job, and priced the new stalk, I would not be inclined to install a used one unless I knew it was quite new.

The L-shaped one is looking better and better.

No, but I will shortly. TIA.

My concern is the pinch bolt. It appears to thread into the hub, rather than having a nut. True? If so, I have visions of snapping the head off and leaving me in a difficult position.

Question: I'm getting ready to do this and have drilled an anti-fouler to 1/2 ". However, a test fit with an old up-stream O2 sensor reveals that 1/2" is NOT enough. Is the downstream O2 sensor (which I have not yet removed or I would have done the test-fit with it) slightly smaller in diameter? TIA.

2000 OBW. Need to change front ball joints. Any tips? Don't want to break anything half-way through the job.

My concern is that a car with those problems has probably been neglected, which means that it might leave you on the side of the road somewhere you don't want to be.

Way overpriced, in my opinion, given the obvious problems that you already see, not to mention the ones not yet apparent.

I just went through this myself, on my 2000 OBW with 150K. It has been acting exactly as you describe for several years. Dealer assured me it was the bulb but I knew otherwise, as I had changed the bulb, checked the wiring, etc. Finally replaced the stalk and problem solved. Got it from RockAuto for about $65. Yes it is a DIY provided you are sufficiently limber to lay on the driver's seat, on your back, with your head under the dash.

I think the size is 18 mm.

In Virginia there is an actual 'snif' test in which they put a probe in the exhaust and measure something.

If I have to pay for a reflash of my ECU, what is the dealer likely to charge?

But if the car passes emissions tests how can the cat be 'bad?'

My understanding is that the anti-fouler does not 'alter' the function of the emissions system; it merely reducess the frequency of these 'spurious' codes. The triggering of a 420 code does not result in any adjustment of the fuel-air mixture, ignition timing, etc.; it merely signals that some arbitrary efficiency 'threshhold' is not being met, and that 'threshhold' apparently exceeds federal emissions standards. Am I wrong?

Question: What is Subaru's 'official' position under the following circumstances, which describe my present situation: Upstream O2 sensor new; all heat shields in place; no exhaust leaks; car passes state-mandated emissions test. Yet still throws the occasional 420. I refuse to throw more money at this problem. Does Subaru acknowledge the propriety of an anti-fouler, which as I understand it would reduce the frequency of such codes? TIA.

Eats shoots and leaves. Eats, shoots and leaves. Eats shoots, and leaves. Punctuation makes all the difference.

Could we all please chip in and buy Ivan a keyboard with punctuation marks on it?