scrap487

32" shocks and a reclocked torsion bar(1 notch) cranked way up

nuts... thats an understatement... this guy is indescribable as far as his mental state goes

well actually its second gen... first gen wagons were even funkier looking. but yeah, I just wish I could get even half that out of the front

yeah... thats not me... but yeah pabst all the way

I can do more but I had to stop because it was threating to roll off the jack/ramp, I wish I had a real RTI ramp or something... anyways check it out:

I'm about to park my lifted wagon up on the farm now that i have 2 subarus, so I can save a bunch on insurance and finally make my neighbors happy I know of tons of logging roads and areas around there but I'm just wondering if there are any ORV parks within a 2 hour drive from there, pretty much the only parks I know of are out in tillamook or the ones up in nw washington.

theres no risk using a toggle switch over a relay, just gotta make sure they are able to handle the load but even still you will burn out the switches eventually... wont harm your lights in any way.

try looking up a used tire dealer, but it seems that 14s are harder to come by because 4wd toyotas used a 15" rim w/ 6lug and the 2wd ones did have 14" rims but they were 5 lug.... other than that I cant help you

well I dont know a whole lot about it but I googled up a chart, 8 gauge sounds like a good size although you could probably get away with 9 or 10 gauge... according to http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Went out to this place just outside of gresham, pretty much this big field next to an elementary school, its totally legal as far as I can see, as in there arent any "no trespassing" signs according to the locals... although he said if the cops caught you coming out of there with muddy tires they'd fine you and make you clean the mud off the street. Anyways, the original plan was for me to go out there with my friend and his toyota and my subaru, after having picked up the DOJs off an ea82 car from a junkyard so I can put my rear axles in(I clocked the torsion bar and need a bit extra travel). Well heres where things went wrong, my friends toyota was stolen from outside his house last night(major bummer cause he put over 3 grand into that thing and only has had it out a few times), and I didnt make it to the junkyard but I was like what the heck, fwd and no one to pull me out if I get stuck, I'll go anyways! WAHOO! All I can say is I am impressed ONCE AGAIN what a subaru can do, I didnt get too serious into the deep mud bogging because I dont have a skid plate and there are some pretty deep ruts but I had plenty of fun in some soft gumbo. I was out there wheeling for about 2 hours and I never got stuck untill I lifted a front tire off the ground going over some ruts and even then after I pushed it around untill I got my front tire back on the ground it just took right off. I had fun, and my rig is getting ready for some serious wheeling, all I need now is a skid plate and a winch and i'll be good to go. By the way, air filter is a good idea, found out engines dont like mud after some got thrown up under the hood and sucked into the intake, ran funny for about 15-20 minutes after that happened, valves were sticking but nothing an italian tuneup couldnt fix. I didnt realize I forgot to put my air filter back on untill I popped the hood to see why it was running funny. Now I just need to figure out how to get a decent amount of travel out of the front without causing axle problems. I got right around 14-15" of travel in the rear which is really nice, really hard to lift a rear tire off the ground. Since I have another car for a daily driver now I'm considering switching to some other kind of IFS system, like something similar to my nissan 720 which is REALLY sweet but I think I'll need to switch to a tcase.

I'd suggest 6mm(about 1/4") thick tubing, it will be stronger.

wow nice... sounds like your gonna make it look a lot nicer than most people do when they trim

Don't poke around with anything other than small copper wire, you will scratch the jets and stuff up and potentially cause other problems. Another thing that may help, have a friend or someone rev the engine to 4k or 5k and hold it there while you stuff a rag over the top of the carb completely blocking it off untill it almost dies(dont kill it completely) and then repeat. What this does is create an incredible vacuum inside the carburetor and will suck a LOT crap out of it, it helps especially with older cars that have been sitting for a while. AKA redneck carb cleaning I would also seriously consider finding a rebuildable weber carburetor and adaptor if I were you. Hitachis are difficult carburetors to work with and are very "finicky," there is a good chance you will find yourself tearing it down and rebuilding it numerous times before you can get it to run right.

ok old revived thread I know, buut a couple things PCV Valve = Positive Crankcase Ventilation, I dont think I can give the greatest description of what it does but it pretty much allows any blowby fuel vapors in the crankcase to be sucked back in through the intake. What button is on top of the steering column? my '81 has nothing on the column at all other than the hazards switch towards the bottom/left side of it, and my '84 has that and the tilt and ignition on the column(switching between the two cars drives me crazy, always putting the key in the wrong place ). and lastly... rather than buying a new PCV valve, most times you should be able to clean it by soaking and then blowing all the crap out of it and have it work just like new.

I want your camera... wow

yeah theres some cool stuff up around lees camp, alot if you know where to look, but unfortunately last time i was there was in january and many trails were closed at the time... should be open now though.

awesome... let me know next time you're heading up that way

better have a good tranny cooler!

you'll find the radiator support gets in the way real fast

oh... oops I didnt see sorry...

tranny swap? to what? automatic? 2wd? all it needs is an axle... and last i checked you dont want a 2wd ea81 as from what I've heard from GD is there is more to it than just swapping the transmission and its a real headache, better to buy his than the one of CL

36" because either you need 18 blocks, or you have to fab something up for the rear diff hanger. If you are going to use 3/16" at least box them in, take the extra step now so you can avoid problems later. And really, you want the lift to NOT break before any other parts on the car. As the parts for your lift weren't originally incorperated into the cars design you want to overengineer them so they DONT fail and are strong and rigid. You'd rather not be introducing another weak point by cutting corners, dont be like Jeep. I recomend against long bolts, since bolts are designed to stretch(which is what generates the clamping force that makes them usefull). As far as lifting goes, I dont see any amount of lift higher than 6-8" being any more useful for a subaru, especially body lift because it doesnt really improve your approach/departure angles by much(more can be achieved by triming, dry sump and relocating the radiator) and break over angle wont get any better because of your driveline or tcase.

yeah its 6 lugs, but anyways its not a big deal anymore I'm buying a car this weekend and not going out of town anymore. I'm not worried about the rear as its cranked all the way up along with being reclocked one notch, all total I got like 6" lift in front and 9" in the rear(untill I load up all my gear ).

but then you also get something built specifically to your specifications, and probably stronger and better since you're able to actually do some welding yourself, such as tying the engine and tranny crossmember lift blocks together and such(which would be a LOT harder to ship if anyone who made lifts did that... but what do I know, I did 6" with 3/16" and didnt tie anything together at all untill recently, and that caused me plenty of problems... and really if you can get the exact amount of metal you need and not have to buy whole 20ft sticks of it, I really doubt its more expensive.

1/4" is a must, 1/8" is dangerous, and you will bend the crap out of 3/16" as far as to tie them together, I'm not sure but I'd use at least 3/16" for that... and yes you have to tie them together cause you will shear bolts off and such if you dont.