scrap487

i've thought about that too... but i've decided once I have access to a shop(when school starts again) that if I'm going to go to that trouble, it wouldnt be that hard to make my own intake manifold out of stainless and it would probably be better. I have yet to actually compare a weber right next to it but it seems like the stock intake manifold has a lot more metal on it than it really needs. I had mine out today cleaning up all that emissions junk off it, I was thinking about grinding off all those tabs and bumps that were meant for screws n stuff.

yeah, no isht. seriously, couple hints for breaking free frozen bolts: tap with a hammer while loosening pb blaster/liquid wrench/wd40 try tightening just a little bit before you loosen(not alot) try loading the nut/bolt with a one of those breaker bars that has a little flex, use something like a jack to get some force on it(careful) and tap it with a hammer. also try heating it up with a propane/map torch most exhaust boltds/nuts have to be cut off. nice thing about larger trucks, the bolts and stuff dont break, you just need 10ft of pipe and a 4 ton floor jack

one of our neighbors by our farm has an 84 wagon, and at the start of this winter his fan started making a whole bunch of noise, I told him about all the garbage I had found in my subaru, so a couple days later he pulls things apart and finds a frozen mouse all cut up from the fan, it was frozen SOLID.

sounds about right, mine is on the left. I just dont like running in 4wd period on pavement. my tires are SO soft and sticky they grip dry pavement like no other tire i've ever had, and I have this bad feeling in my gut that other parts of the drivetrain will give out before the tires start bucking on dry pavement.

yeah seriously... glad this was brought back cause I want to get some round H4s...

willing to part it out? I really could use that fender actually, need something to start with for making those fiberglass fenders I wanna make for my rig

got 900hp 3200lb torque from my weber!!!

naah, dont fix it, swap in a 5speed

how about a test drive? you know, to see how it handles with a trailer n everything :-p

Cool. I wish I could be doing that with my car right now

All of that is totally true, but thats not the entire story. Each company DOES use the same gas as everyone else, however when it is extracted from the pipelines each company has their own set of additives that is mixed in with the gasonline at the time the tanks/trucks are filled, and it is those additives that make the differance in gasoline between differant companies.

yeah... you should have seen the garbage in my blowers and vents. my car had sat for a good 9 years before I got it... it was so bad it was coming out of the vents, the airways and everything were packed SOO dense. I still cant get the smell out.

hey I'll take it but I gotta know if I can get it licensed :-p

so what if people are stealing or not? who cares about the small stuff, and people cant really walk out with drivelines and manifolds and doors and differantials or strutsI dont know a whole lot about the economics of junking... but it seems to me most of the time they just have to pay the costs of transportation and they dont really have to pay jack for the car, and I'm pretty sure even if every single small peice that could fit in a toolbag and pocket was stolen off of a car they would still make more than enough to cover their costs and make money off the car. I dont know about ea82 drivelines but I have a REALLY hard time believing the ujoints cant be replaced, its absurd because they do wear and fail just like every other replacable moving part on a car. as for ea81 ujoints i KNOW they are replacable because I've done it, and it wasnt any differant from changing the ujoints out on any other vehicle i've owned.

anyone have metal they want to donate for the project?

hah... whoever said you cant replace ujoints on a soob? thats absurd. get a couple sockets, a screw driver, some snap ring pliers and a bfh and a vice is helpful. also if you couldnt replace them you wouldnt be able to get ujoints aftermarket form parts stores for it.

I cant imagine it needing much at all. although a small lift might be a good idea, 2" would be accomplished pretty darn easy without needing a whole bunch. probably will have to do some bashing of the fender wells. have at it with a 5lb sledge. might need a little trimming of the fender but I dont think that will be a huge issue. really the best way is to take a measuring tape and try to guess. if you take it off the road you will probably need to do a significant amount, a small lift would probably be easier.

what about the axles?

more like almost two years old...

ok heres one for ya, happened a month or two ago. when I finished getting my lift done, I torque down all of the axle nuts, but before i went about fitting cotter keys I thought I'd take it around the block to make sure i got everything right and then check them again when i got back. well when I got back I got distracted and was so excited I had a running, lifted subaru I completely forgot about the cotter keys. fast forward two days, I was driving out to my school, MHCC, and after about 4 miles or so of going around 60mph it feels like one of my rear tires blew out(big BANG and then some scraping noises...) so I try to slow down and WTF no brakes, I finally get over to the side of the road and I see this ginormous tire roll past me along the median on the other side of the freeway and it keeps rolling for about 500ft. I get out, no rear wheel to be found, backing plate with about an inch or more ground off of it and I'm really confused. well, COTTER keys are not something to forget. Although, it was a really, really fun ride

oh pulling out fast enough isnt a problem, I could still burn rubber with 31" tires before I got the carb problems I have now, I just like to not put so much stress on the drivetrain and tires, especially clutch. right now I have 29" and untill they are totally worn past the wear bars I will never spin those on pavement, they grip good enough to break ************ and the compound is incredibly soft

I'm not too likely to make fiberglass fenders at the moment, althought I may make a hood because if I ever stuff a tcase on my rig and bring the engine back up where its supposed to be I will have some clearance issues.

darn, no interest :-(

o god I just had an idea of how to create adjustable(easily) lift blocks.... anyways.. awesome? how high? if you go 4", might as well go 6" and if you go 6" you might as well go 8"...

with much bigger tires you're already putting a lot more strain on the drive train than it was designed for, when youre on DRY pavement it will not only wear the tires faster but it will also wear on axles and u-joints and that stuff faster as well. and considering the tailshaft or whatever in the transmissions seems to be the next weakest link down from the axles I dont want to cause wear on it that can be avoided. I also busted a ujoint on my driveshaft driving aroudn in 4hi after I first got done with my lift, I didnt realize it right away and it was stuck there because I couldnt pull it all the way out without a lever.