scrap487

oh man... so I need to get my hands on some LSD 4.44s, anyone know where I can find some cheap or what cars they came on in a junkyard(I know.. I will use the search function.. eventually) what does it take to make 4.44s work or is it a direct bolt on and I dont have to go swapping joints and stuff out of axles? are there any problems steering on the road in 2wd with lsd from and rear? figure there wouldnt be too much but if there is I might as well just mod some locking hubs to work and weld up the differantials

alot of the factory made racks for nissan/toyotas/rangers/mazdas etc... will probably work for mounting in the back, up front you will need to figure something else out. on my nissan we picked up a rack like so for 80$, and we already had a headache rack and the supports for that got in the way of mounting the ladder rack so we ended up cutting holes in the top of the headache rack and ran couple bolts through to where a crossmember would have normally gone. I will take pic tomorrow morning and show you. you could probably get away with something like that if you ever make a rollbar/headache rack.

oh what a beautiful oil pan... and YES I KNEW I had seen an 8" lift on a wagon before, when I first joined the board thats what I was looking for and I had the hardest time finding anything higher than 4" for wagons and I was actually kinda stumped. ok, if I can find a tcase that would be great. if I do that though, does anyone know of a tcase that will work that has some sort of gear reduction in highgear? or possibly some differant differantials that I might be able to fit some better gears into? say like around 5:1 or something? or are those only found in solid axles... I suppose at the very least it wouldnt be too hard to make some 4.44 differantials work right? the reason I bring this up is because I have noticed that the on the tailshaft or whatever in the transmission have had a tendancy to shred to peices because of crawling with the transmission in low range all the time pushing those big tires. I guess ultimately I would try to make a nissan or if possible toyota 4 speed(those things are indestructable...) work with an ea81 if my transmission ever failed but i'd like to avoid that if possible.

i think i'll put the stock 13" wheels back on when i'm done too

this is hilarious.. OUCH MY EYE... WHERED ALL THIS MUD COME FROM

I dont know much about auto trannies, but from what I hear it might just be an electrical/vacuum problem which is causing it to not work right? I think you're much better off trying to fix that, because if you swap in a non-turbo 5spd you'll be going from having a daily driver to having a project. just something to keep in mind

he means the inner joint on the half shaft itself, pretty much building axle that will work with both the splines on the turbo hubs, and on the non-turbo stubs of the transmission. as for removal of the transmission I couldnt tell you for sure, but i have heard that its WAAY easier to remove the engine and tranny out through the top than drop it out the bottom. what you gotta do is unbolt the intake manifold from the heads, drop the exhaust, leave everything connected to the intake manifold and set that where the spare tire normally goes. I'm not sure what you need to do about the turbo if thats an issue. anyways, after you do that its pretty simple, you might want to drain all your fluids to make things lighter, break the transmission and motor mounts loose and then pull the engine out through the hood. you may or may not need to remove the radiator, but it will give you more room to work. hopefully I got that right but I have no clue because i've never done it, especially not to an ea82t

ahhhhHHHHH!!!!! at least your work on the mechanical parts of the car isnt a total loss... thats horrible. hey what school you go to? trying to think of where that might be... not MHCC is it? I heard something about a dyno but I dont know anything about it.

are you working with an ea81 or ea82? suspension lifts arent incredilbly popular among subarus because of the increase in axle stress and failure... it is still done alot, but many people rebuild their axles using differant parts that can hold up to the stress better and also drop the engine/tranny craddle and the rear differantial carrier. if you go with a suspension lift you WILL ecounter problems driving on the street because your camber will be thrown pretty far off and you will have to be creative when trying to find a solution, because its either not easy, or will require a ton of fab work. you can use struts of differant vehicles to gain the amount of lift you want, but dont ask me for details because I havent done it, theres tons of information about that. there are also tons of information about springs and cartridges out there too, but again I dont know details. somethings i have heard of that you might try searching for are scorpion springs and toyota startlet(sp?) cardtridges. i dont know anything about struts, but if you fit a higher rate spring thats the same length, or a taller spring you will also have to change the shock cartridges accordingly. you may be able to find most of the information for that by looking at spring and shock specification/applications guides that you find at most parts stores.

wow dude nice work, looks great. how do you notch the tubing?

well I'm in the process of sorting out some mechanical bugs at the moment, but I cant seem to shut my mind off late at night. I've decided the best thing to do is go 2" higher over the 6" I already have. at this point I dont think it will improve offroad performance much, but as hard as it is to believe I have an idea that it will drop the struts enough to make it a little easier to correct the camber, it will also allow me to get another 2" of compression in the rear because my shocks are currently limiting it; I haven't bottomed out on the road but when flexing it has bottomed out and I'm sure I could get more flex out of the back. this time, once I figured out the shape of the blocks i need, one of my friends is going to help me cast the strut tops out of solid aluminum which aside from making the mold, SHOULD make everything waay easier. I also want to see a wagon with 8" cause I dont know of any :-) anyways this is going to be my build thread, and I will try to make pictures and get everything much more organized and post as I go and completely fabricate the lift before I install it, so I will have a better resource to refer other people to who dont like to use the search function. Because I already have the shocks i need, all the needed hardware, and brake lines that can probably handle another 10" of lift ontop of what i already have, this will be fairly cheap for me to do and I may actually end up getting a tcase so I dont have to mess around with shifter linkages and stuff, but that wont come near the end. Expect more in a day or too, so check back. I figure I'll probably have everything all done total within 4 weeks, probably less. I wont install it however untill I for sure dont need to use it for 2 weeks. I think something's wrong with me... cause I've hardly had a chance to wheel this thing and I'm all cracked out on subaru

ok I gotta couple things for you to look at(you really should learn how to do at least SOME of your own research tho): heres the most recent thread of my build(only one that still has pictures up ): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52707 FAQ(you BETTER read this before you got anymore questions): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24980 this is a write up I followed for my lift(I did some things differant however) http://subarubrat.com/hasseylift.htm oh I highly recomend you pic up a factory service manual, it wont really help you much with the lift, but trust me you'll want it when it comes to fixing stuff you broke in the process. also for rear shocks, I made a darned good post in this thread earlier today, read it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54721

I believe there is a way to tune it, but its only one adjustment screw and I've heard MANY people overlook it and/or dont know about it. I'd have to go take a closer look later to be able to tell you. At least there is on the 32/36 DGEV my dad has on his nissan... Theres an odd kinda screw on a side opposite the floatbowl, I think i'll have to take a picture cause I'm having a hard time remembering, working on a hitachi has my mind in a food processor. good luck, I'll get pictures in the morning if you dont figure it out and find you DO need to tune it.

right on? who did you order it from and how much? I'm contemplating rebuilding one that i have and trying to make it work, or buying a brand new kit and selling the 4 or so I have after rebuilding(but not tuning or anything..) for around 100-150 each. none of the webers I have have anything resembling any kind of linkage, the one in the best shape is a motorcraft and I'd have to build a custom adapter plate for it, and 2 of them are sidedraft webers. it was a nice score for 70$ total dude let us know how it turns out.

well, on mine, an 81 gl, that switch is for the indicator. maybe you have a bad bulb or fuse?

ok do this(you will need a measuring tape): measure the distance from the top shock mount to the bottom shock mount with the car sitting on the ground. jack the car up so the wheel is up off the ground and the suspension is maxed out, measure from the top of the shock mount to the bottom. this is how much extension you will need out of the shock go here: http://www.gorancho.com/products/appguides/2005/2005_productshock_spec.pdf or go here: http://www.monroe.com/pdf/ShockAbsorberMountingStyleSheet.pdf those are all I could look up online right now, I know kyb has one but I couldnt find it. also most parts stores have many books about all the differant types of shocks they carry and specifications. You can pretty much get exactly what you want. Just go in and say you'd like to find a shock with so and so dimensions and extentions, and has eye mounts on both ends. you will be MUCH happier if you go with rancho/procomp(but they WILL be stiffer than hell). I have some procromp es3000s and they are pretty sweet, I also have like more than a foot of downtravel, and about 2-3" of compression(the shock I got was slightly too long, use a measuring tape ) but it will be wicked sweet when I go higher. any more questions just let me know..... it'd be nice if a moderator would sticky some shock spec charts on the offroad forum.

delete duplicate post.

ok, well I'm gonna quit messing with it then for tonight. I'm buying an adapter plate tomorrow and getting rid of all this junk and getting that webber on there. I wish I had just started trouble shooting my problem like i SHOULD have done rather than move on to what i wanted to do. well I'll stop where I'm at, put the carb back on and fire it up before anything else.

ok... well this might throw you through a loop. it has an O2 sensor, and its a CA model and it does have some sort of electrical stuff, BUT its an 81 and as far as I know thats pre-computer. my soob is the runt of the crop... O2 sensor w/ a carb and no computer? I dont have a check engine light anywhere. I also might add I havent had the O2 sensor hooked up the entire time since I lifted it. will it run without a computer? anyways, I have a weber I'm ready to throw on there as soon as I get an adapter plate so this is pretty much prepping for that if it doesnt work with the hitachi. I will go with a weber eventually but I dont really want to spend $45 for an adapter plate right away.

crap I just confused myself again... I actually dont know what my car is, might be CA model, which would explain a little why this is more confusing than it should be... so the AIS has nothing to do with those thermovacuum switches I mentioned? the diagram in my book shows that TVS 1 has a hose going to the air cleaner and this the majority of the air induction system because it sucks in fresh air to lean out the mixture during warmup.. thanks EDIT: ok I just went out and checked, my car IS a CA car, how'd it end up here so I assume its still safe to remove that. route vac advance up to ported vacuum, and block egr.

thanks... makes a little more sense now. I've been on and off searching all day, just for differant questions. the threads I visited were QUITE descriptive but still left a few questions. after doing a whole TON of reading out of the FSM I found that the AIS was mentioned once, near the end of the section about the ECC where as on here its all over the place and I get lost because there arent many threads that make the connection between the AIS and what is actually consists of... i suspected but I've learned not to go tearing crap apart just because its what i *think* it is. I understand where you're coming from, but it doesnt hurt to double check, and my question was a little more specific than your average "how do I get rid of all this emissions crap" thread, trust me i've seen ALLL of your rants about searching and research in ALL of those threads , I'm grateful you are still willing to help out. I'm not the greatest with factory service manuals but I try my best... sorry for the inconveniance sometimes I just need to see something drawn out a differant way for it to make sense. thanks

not sure... the 185 size is slightly larger than the 170(by about 10mm). check the load capacities of the tires and compare with gvw and the weight of your cargo/passangers. good lucky, maybe someone who actually knows will come around(my tires are rated to carry I think at least 3x-4x more than the stock tires...)

ok after some "professional" detailed examination of the factory service manual, the valves I am talking about are: thermo vacuum switch(I) and thermovacuum switch(II) (TVS 1 and 2 respectively) TVS 1 is on the intake manifold, has a vacuum hose that goes to the carb(not sure of the function of this, someone please tell me), and a hose that goes to the aircleaner that sucks air in to lean out air/fuel mixture when engine is cold/choke closed. can I just block off both hoses and the port on the carb and call it a day? if its not needed for the carb to work right I think this little peace is gonna go bye-bye. I believe this is the AIS thingy? or is it both of these? TVS 2 however does more, it has a hose going to the EGR valve, a hose that goes to the distributor and then a hose that goes to the carburator. as I said before, I have no idea what the purpose is of these too hoses going to the carburator so PLEASE TELL ME. they dont go to any diaphram or anything, they just go right into the front of it. I cant find a diagram of these two ports in the FSM. am I safe just to block off the egr port, reroute the vacuum advance to the intake manifold, and block off the hose going to the carb? PLEASE, need some input before 10pm so my neighbors dont call the cops on me AGAIN!!!! p.s. early today I kept getting the thermo switches and the thermo vacuum switches mixed up which is part of the reason why I am confused, but i've gotten that mostly sorted out now(I had thought they were the same thing and then I realized one is electrical the other is vacuum) any electronics I can rip off while i'm at it?

oh... well I honestly dont know of any real uses offroad... I think I just wanna get a pneumatic system setup, so I can feel like i'm driving a semi

also dont the stubs on the rear differantial come off? why not just unbolt that and take it where you got room to work on it? doesnt getting things red hot affect the hardness of the metals your working with? dont want to heat anything too much thats gonna be staying on the car.