scrap487

got a title? will it pass deq?

well.. was going to rip EVERYTHING Off my manifold and carp and plug it, but then I realized that the choke and distributor advance run off of these valves that are controlled by temp. I figure I could get away with hooking the disty advance straight into the manifold, but what about the choke? I dont have what I need to convert to manual choke on hand tonight, but I also want to clean up some of this clutter. if I hook it into the manifold it of course wont run or will run very badly when cold, or if I leave it disconnected it will run when cold but wont run when it gets warm. I suppose if worse comes to worse I could leave it disconnected untill it warms up and the go hook it up as soon as its warm, but that would be a PITA. advice please? I guess my other option is to get some vacuum tubing and get rid of the hardlines on the manifold and hook it up like that system is supposed to untill I get my weber on there but ick... I want to get this done tonight... Thanks, Trevor

remove the differantial from under need the car? shouldnt be too hard to do, 4 bolts on the driveshaft, 4 more bolds holding it up, 1 bolt on top and take off the other axle and you'll have plenty more room to work on it. best way to do it and surely get it done is take it slow and easy and give yourself the space you need.

i think it'd make a better bumper for my dads truck

well, probably a good idea to go through them all and lube them up if there is any corrosion.. wd40 or something. check all electrical connections, make sure there is no rust or corrosion, and clean them and then use dielectric grease and heat shrink on them. congrats on getting it running. my ea81 is the best car i've had yet(except for the craptachi thats keeping it from running right)

no joke, these cars LOVE the higher rpms. half the cylinders can get you going ALOT faster when you're car is only 1/4 the weigh of that suburban its just those monsters like it better on the lower end of the tach, and subarus dont have crap untill you get to 3.5k or higher.

the way metric tire sizes work 215/75R15 means: the tire is 215mm wide, and the sidewall(distance between outside of the tire and outside of the rim) is 75% of the tread width, which would be 161.25mm the R means radial the 15 is how big a rim a tire takes in inches, which means a 15" rim now a 30x9.5x15 means a tire with a 30" diameter, 9.5" wide, on a 15" rim stock tires on a subaru are 13", pugs are 15"

amen.

how about more info on tire wear? I got some TSL/SXs and the compound is so soft I dont even think they'll make 10k...

well, if you're in a tight spot and you got lockers and you need low range, it will make some things easier to negotiate if you have enough traction, because with front and rear locked and having a locker it will want to pull you straight right? also would be nice being able to run around town in low on dry pavement and have the option to switch to hi a little bit easier when you hit the highway

I'll take some measurements tomorrow when I get up if no one else gets to it first. since you plan on a lift, might be better to drill your hubs and get wheels with more backspacing vs going to gen 2 suspension? just something to consider(I dont know jack about gen1s). it sounds like you have access to most of the equipment you'll need to do this, so I might be able to help you out a little bit with some advice/ideas while the lift is in progress, just take plenty of pics and I'll try my best. make sure you keep brake lines, shocks and steering stuff in mind when you do it, I didnt and it was what kept me from getting back on the road 2 weeks later than I should have. since you are making the lift yourself, I would recomend minimum 6", but if you do only 2" you wont be as likely to have to deal with brakelines and such, but you will likely have thoughts later on wishing you had gone bigger, besides, brats are supposed to look tough not wimpy just make sure you do it right and make stuff strong enough. I might post some actually ideas in the morning when I can think. good luck and HAVE FUN DOING IT!!

yeah, its splitting the hi/low from 4x2 and 4x4. its DEFINATELY possible if you have looked at a d/r transmission, I WILL be doing it as soon as i have time. I was actually thinking about hooking up some kinda of onboard air and having the highlow controlled by compressed air with a lever on the shifter, kinda like those big trucks, but that might be just a little(read: too) expensive for me. but yeah, seperate levers would be awesome. I thought I heard about someone doing that on here but I havent been able to find it... pics would be GREAT and if no one has done it maybe I'll be able to pioneer something

Ever cut a fram filter open(new unused) and look at the construction?

anyone ever done it with a d/r soob transmission? been thinking about fabricating something like this but not sure how to make the linkages. pictures would be GREAT.

naaah, I disconnected mine and threw it away, runs fine and I get better gas economy(23-25mpg )

OOPs wrong forum... someone wanna move to older/prehistoric generation please? although one time when I was out rallying on this back road up to my farm I got a nasty rock chip in it, so i guess if you really want you could keep this in offroad

I was wondering if anyone had considered making a third eye rather than ripping one off of an older soob? I've been thinking and it doesnt seem like it'd really be all too hard. If I ever make myself some fiberglass fenders or hood or anything I might even think about making some molds of the eye cover and duplicating the brackets n everything. any interest/suggestions/conversation?

yeah I prefer "effortless" and "free" when it comes to women too

you'd think a clogged cat would decrease performance more in the higher rpms than low rpms..??

yeah... also forgot to mention when starting in low rpms, it almost feels like I have a turbo kicking in right around 3k rpms when I floor it, feels like i'm gonna brake the back of my seat off. I just pretend the howl from my tires is the whine of a turbo

I've had my waggon up at 6000 rpms no problem stock, if it had the gearing it coulda gone off the speedo but with a 4 speed it falls maybe 40mph short 2 days before I got my 29" swampers I estimate I got to about 90 mph on I84(on 31" tires), I wasnt even paying attention and it snuck up on me, cause I always have to drive with it floored on the highway forgot to mention the part about going up that wicked 47% grade and that monster 5th wheel trailer that the hummer was sharing with that bulldozer

yeah believe it or not that is whats best for these engines, they dont hit crap for power till after 3k rpms, and then they're friggin rockets(at least mine with my gigantic tires on it...) look in the owneres manual for getting the best economy out of it. it should tell you to wait to shift untill you hit 4000-4500 rpms. I used to run it in the low range on the tach, shifting arond 3000-3500rpms and my engine HATED it, starting shifting at 4500-5000rpms and after a while its blowing all that ************ outta its system and it runs the best it ever has(when it runs... carb/ecc problems). and now I feel good about the way I drive it, i used to get this bad guilty feeling in my gut every time I floor it and take it to redline like i was abusing the car, now I know its good for it

wow gen1s sure are purdy

ea81/82s arent gen 1 brats... at least as far as I know

my point is, its a safety feature, and its ABSOLUTELY NOT worth the risk. yeah you can get nylocks, I dont trust them, yes they will stay on there longer than a nut by itself, but will the last? with a cotter pin there is NO WAY it can fail untill the coterpin itself fails, and you will be able to visually inspect the condition of the cotter pins much more easily. being lazy isnt an excuse. also torque anything down with nylocks in my experiance has been difficult because the nylon part of the bolt produces a lot of friction and can reduce the amount of torque put on the nut/stud, making it hard to judge and reducing the effects from the elasticity of the bolt/studs, potentially comprosmising the strength and longevity of the fastener. also keep in mind that this post was written at 4am and that while there may be a valid point behind all of what I am saying, also consider it may not be entirely accurate of my oppinions as I am very tired and the only reason I've been up so long is trying to trouble shoot my own problems on my car. I trust a solid metal pin over maliable plastic isht anyday