scrap487

no my engine cross member is dropped 6" just like everything else. my camber is MUCH better and I'm grateful that albie help me get it as good as it was. if you do the math, the top of the strut doesnt sit flat, it sits at 22.5 degrees, if you have a block that isnt cut at an angle you will HAVE to have the holes offset about 2.3" inorder to drop the strut STRAIGHT down, albie was only able to offset the tops I think by about 1"-1.5" before the blocks or struts hit the frame/fenderwell, we did a ton of bashing too. I think my subaru might just be the runt of the litter... I'll get some pics of the suspension with the car sitting flat today. right now I still have bad camber, but its hard to tell upclose, and i can drive it on the highway comfortably now... all I need now is a weber so I can trash my junk carb and maybe make it to 60mph in less than 30 seconds

uhhh... rear engine might be cool there was a job opening for a PTO counter person at six states, truck/driveline shop, they do a lot of other stuff there too dealing with almost anything in the drivetrain from the clutch/transmission to the hubs. would have been able to get a LOT of information for us... maybe they're still taking applications. being able to get parts at COST, and all the differant parts they can get in or even make, and having a machine shop, and all the incredible number of books and catalogs... ughhh I wish I had applied

if the camber is stock, it is not considered bad camber, because it is within spec. my camber is not within spec by about 4-5 degrees.

I was looking at the front of my subaru the other day, and noticed how the control arms arent really all that flat, and how I still have some bad camber. I have no idea what stock suspension geometry is(because I didnt even look at it before I took it apart and lifted the car...) but if I were to lower the engine cradle just a little bit to flatten out the angle of the control arms, wouldnt that push the bottom of the tires out? I know reduced ground clearance becomes an issue, but I dont think it would take very much, and you SHOULD have a beefy skid plate anyways(I dont...). I figure it will also widen the wheel base ever so slightly, but I figure it wont affect the axles negatively, it should decrease the angles on the axles. another one of my ideas was mounting rollers or castor wheels to skid plates n stuff so when I do highcenter its easier to get off of it or over it... I dont know how practical that is though, but if you have a locker or too...

who are you? albie? I think what he is getting at, is he wants to fit a differantial under there so he can get divorced tcase oh hey, not to high jack the thread, although it may be slightly relevant, I think another way to deal with bad camber may be lower the engine cradle slightly more than the amount you lifted the car, because it will flatten out the control arms pushing the bottom of the wheels out more, the more and more I think about this the more likely it is that I will try it. it will reduce ground clearance just a little bit, but if you get a custom y pipe made, and modify your oil pan and get a skid plate, not much is sacrificed for a much beefier rig :-)

are the 2wd wagon tanks bigger than the 4wd ones? I dont mean to hijack this thread but I'm kinda curious... even though there really is no differance in how much money i save, I dont really like going through like 3/4 of my tank going up to the mountains(I'm only getting 18-20mpg btw). I've thought about fabrication a gas tank that goes all the way across from drivers side to passenger side... if I remember right the gas tank only goes over like 2/3 of the way and then there is empty space, not to mention that BIG indentation in it that has no apparent reason for being there

theres a noticable differance in the amount of oopmh it has with the 29s vs the 31s... thing's a rocket. I want to take it wheeling on saturday, I can bring it up that way if you want if someone wants to show me the trails around scappose.

oh and yeah,those tires work GREAT in the deep stuff... but lighter snow with anything less than about an inche or two my old wildcat a/ts were waay better. what i dont get, is how people complain of the traction w/ swampers on pavement... its hard to break them loose even on wet pavement, this are the stickiest tires I have ever owned and pretty much outperform every other tire I've used except on ice they dont do so good.

dude... I get it, not too funy tho... the swaybar is still in the front half of the car and affects the front suspension.. and wow your oilpan is dirty.. here is the sway bar on my rig:

um my ea81 sure sure does, it came stock, and frankly, i would PISS MY PANTS if it was stock suspension and didnt have a sway bar... I'm talking about the front too... there isnt one on the back

subaru style... and just a comparison pic for before I got the 29x10.50x15 tsl/sx I need to replace my struts with something a bit stiffer and toss the sway bar, the amount of travel I get out of the front is pathetic compared to the rear

hmm... well I know its not on a subaru, but it IS a weber... swapped an l20b to replace a blown z24 in my 720 truck... it came with a weber 32/36 dgv carbuerator jetted for a 1600 engine(not sure about air, but the fuel jetting is 160 main and secondary is 135). anyways, the problem we are having is the engine will not idle or hardly even run without the choke fully closed, it starves for fuel. we figured the jetting on it would probably be fine for the l20 engine, but the only thing we can come up with that might be causing it is that it doesnt sit completely level, but after adjusting the float we figured that wouldnt be a problem. there are absolutely no vac leaks or anything around the base of the carb or around the manifold, and the ignition is in prime condition tuned dead on. we cant figure anything out and because of this my dad is convinced webers are the worst carbuerators in the world and now he wants to try to make the hitachi off of the z24 work and he is convinced the hitachi is a much higher quality carbuerator. anyone wanna help me with this?

http://www.coker.com/store/customer/home.php firestone ndt, and also under vintage military and truck tires 700x15(roughly 29") 600x16(roughly 28") other sizes are available(only bigger...) they take a narrow 4.5"-6" rim, you can pickup rims w/ a 6x5.5 lug pattern that narrow pretty cheap, I know a place over in N portland that has some for 20$ a rim.

if your spedo is electric and not cable... yes it can be recalibrated, take it to the dealership or any 4x4 shop, and if for some stupid reason it cant be done, there is a part you can buy that is wired inline between the spedo and the sensor and modifies the signal the spedo recieves by a specified amount. if you got a speedometer cable I'm pretty sure you're gonna have to learn to drive without the spedo, it'll be safer that way anyways cause then you'll pay more attention to the road :-p

I ended up going with tsl/sx... but for anyone else thats interested, 62$ a tire is hard to beat.

honestly, AA isnt bad at all, it depends majory on what you want, order their high clearance lift and of course you will be eating through axles like no other. the other lifts dont put any strain on any part of the drivetrain. last I knew they were doing a series of some pretty knarly jumping for each of their kits... and they are a little bit closer to bein "local"

should see how AA tests their kits

most kits are all priced fair, AA is close by, and the guys out there are great and very helpful. its also not very hard to make a lift either, but requires a lotta patience. dunno whereabouts burien is, but if I'm nearby I can bring my wagon by sometime to show you and give you an idea of what all it goes into lifting a subaru.

it sure is hard for me to land right side up when I have to swirve.... and I have my swaybar totally connected and tight...

what car was this for? was it for that hatch your were looking for a long while back? what all is in the works for it right now

if you need help/ideas with it I dont live too far from you. I cant picture what you are talking about... but I experianced something similiar in my jeep cherokee with the threads for the transmission/tcase crossmember inside the unibody stripped out, there was a rubber plug in the floorboard just big enough for me to stick a socket through, I ended up drilling the old threads out and putting another washer and bolt through the unibody. maybe something like that would work? anyways let me know if you figured it out or not, if not I might be able to help I got a stick welder if you need it but I dont think welding a stud to the unibody is the best idea(kinda hard to do also...). if you can fit another nut or bolt up in there that is a much better way to go.

that big? they are only 29s. my jeep had 32s on it and they never had a problem balancing those, same with my dads trucks. I know a bunch of shops that will do it for 40-50$ total with decent machinery, but I'm hoping I can convince one of my friends to do it that works at an auto shop or someone in the auto program at my school... my school has pretty sweet equipment, I think all the tire and brake stuff they got from ford new a few months ago.

not for a couple months... might see if I can find a spool or something for the rear, and adapt nissan locking hubs to work. although I s'pose I'll end up just taking an axle out when I'm on the street.

yeah, went out, bought some 29x10.50x15 TSL/SXs... they're gonna be here on monday or tuesday, and then its all about finding a place to mount and balance them for cheap/free man, 4wheelparts wanted TWENTY BUCKS A TIRE to mount an balance, such a rip off, it dont take half an hour to mount and balance 1 tire.

ok, well I'm finally getting around to modifing the 4wd shifter on my 81 wagon now that I got 6+" of lift, and its becoming a pain, because however I modify it it will interfere with 3rd and reverse for my shifter... I would like to see pictures of how you guys with 6+" of lift dealt with this. I'd rather not start cutting up the hump if at all possible. thanks