scrap487

the most IMPORTANT thing you will ever need working on your car: PATIENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I cannot stress that MORE, also better to take your time and make sure its done right, instead of do a hackjob and suffer the later consequences and above all, cool head and at least a 6 pack or more for most repairs... as far as tools, it helps to have a complete set of metric wrenches(8mm to at least 21mm), screwdrivers, prybar/wrecking bar, set of metric sockets, SAE tools are good to have but not essential. gear wrenches are the most time saving tool ever. the most common bolt/nut sizes are 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21. so far I havent ecountered any bolt that came OE on the car that was 9, 15, or 16, have found an 11 and 13. most axle nuts are 36mm, although with some reman'd units they will come with 30mm and 32mm. vice grips are handy, so are flare wrenches for brake line related type stuff. replacing axles after you do it a couple times will only take about 20 minutes. 4-5lb sledge is usually a good idea, along with a ball peen. peice of pipe to get that extra leverage you need sometimes(becareful not to break sockets/bolts). my experiance with tools, almost every tool that I have bought that was made outside the USA has broken, while most that were made in the usa are still intact(trust me, its worth paying 3 times more for tools if you use them more than once...)... I know there is more but my mind is runnin on empty. hope this helps. oh yeah, loud noises at 3am piss the neighbors off!

dont worry, i got some designs in the works, just need to get about 300$ for the axles well, before I say anything, how much money you got to work with? theres ALWAYS more you can do.

if the motor and trans move around much when you rev it or are driving it, I'd suggest looking into some new motor/trans mount and also take a look at your pitch rod or whatever its called. the motor isnt supposed to move more than just a little, the motor mounts are to absorb vibration, but not let it go all over the place.

OH MY GOD... I saw that out at harbor freight out on stark in gresham, near MHCC... that thing is the ghettoist redneck car I've ever seen in person.... I stopped and looked it and was just like.. what the f is that thing for like 3 minutes... swear that thing gets more looks than my subaru(which cops really seem to like )

anyways I called around. can get a set of (4) 600x16 for 248$, about 50-60$ for shipping, or I can wait till the second week in april and not have to pay shipping(coker is coming to portland for an autoshow) lot cheaper than even swampers for what I've heard is a pretty tough tire. dunno how much siping will cost, but with rims, mounting and balancing I will only be out about 350$, and when they wear out they're friggin cheap and I already got the rims. the 600x16 around around 28 inches and the 700x15 are around 29.5 inches

only if I had the gearing and rims... :-( I saw all those gov auctions...

what are they using now? anyways heres a link to the tires I am talking about, they are differant than the ones on the titan website. for 62$ a tire its not too bad.

I wouldnt mind a dvd, but I dont have much in the way of money right now. could donate just about anything else though, such as time and labor if you could make use of it

those tires are totally differant... the tires i'm talking about are those non-directional tall narrow ndt tires... the ones that have a solid rib and connected offset lugs...

I was looking around for those tires they used on the older military cj3 jeeps or whatever... anyways I found a site called coker that has them, no idea what shipping would be but they are either 69$ a peice for 6x16 or 82$ for a 7x15(measures 29.50 wide)... made by firestone but I'm having trouble finding them anywhere else atm... anyways i'm wondering if anyone has any experiance with these tires cause they would be pretty darn cool on my subaru. heard they're horrible in rain but siping them makes it loads better.

I wonder how long they last on the street....

not sure if they're still 7$ cause my friend bought them awhile ago but they should be pretty cheap. just be careful with them, dont compress them any more than you need too, they scared the ************ outta me when I used them for my jeep, friend crushed his hand when we were wrestling with the spring to get it back on its perch, nothing broken though, just swollen. but since subarus are much lighter and its for the rear it shouldnt be that bad.

i'm not quite sure what you want to do... but I'm assuming your trying to compress the spring enough to get the top back on it enough to thread the bolt on... harbor freight sells spring compressors for like 7$... I wouldnt use them more than once or twice though, they arent the best quality. i used them on my jeep to compress the front springs to get blocks in there, it worked OKAY, destroyed one set of the compressors though(stripped the threads after a certain point), but for the rear of subaru it shouldnt be a problem at all. or maybe there is a way to use the weight of the car on the strut to compress it? I'm not sure how the ea82 struts are set up, but if you can get to it with it mounted on the car, just let it on the ground and then maybe you can do that?

i used 2 inch long by half inch grade 8 bolts.... depending on how you make your lift it may not matter what you use as long as you have the matching nuts. if you use pipe/tubing you will need mostly bolts the same diamter and pitch but longer by however much you are gonna lift. if you use rectanguler tubing it wont really matter as long as its strong enough.

power steering + steering stabilizer + differant steering wheel will get rid of the majority of the problem.

I was thinking... is there anyway to remove the shock/cartridge from inside of the strut and still have the strut functional with that limit on travel? I'm just wondering cause since I put longer shocks on the back of my ea81, I get CRAZY amounts of travel, and havent had any axle problems yet, I want to build shock mounts seperate from the strut and open up my shock options. I figure it really wont put much of any strain on the axle driving on the street and with some limiting straps to keep from pulling the joints apart, I figure it wouldnt hurt anything too much since if a wheel is fully drooped odds are if you're hammering it its the axle thats compressed thats taking all the strain. and if I'm wrong I'm willing to go through a few axles to find out. my other idea, I'm not quite sure how the stubs attach to the transmission, but if its anything like the back, would it be possible to make spacers betweeen the stubs and the transmission to allow better usage of longer control arms to get more travel?

well not quite like I was thinking of, but I like it better. I have a lot left to do, plan on droping another bar down 4" below the back peice for a skidplate to attach too, and also so I can get some nice fog lights lower to the ground, and then I'm gonna cover up all the holes and stuff with some kinda plate or sheetmetal, sand blast it and then send it off to get powder coated. it also looks a lot better in the day with natural light... my camera doesnt do it justice.

yeah, my subaru can definately out wheel the jeep I had untill it comes to gearing. 4:1 low in the transfercase is hard to beat. jeep had waaaay more travel and stuff but I took my subaru up some pretty knarly stuff up on the farm my jeep hadnt been able to do(most cause of cog and weight issues). personally, get a highlift jack, the smallest swampers you can find, really good skid plates, and you will definately be rockin.

I thought I might revive this thread. my transmission isnt in the best shape, 1st gear and reverse arent doing to good and theres alot of slop in the gears, and my clutch isnt going to last very much longer either. so if I wanted to go with a nissan 5 speed transmission(found out it needs to be 4wd transmission, 2wds have much MUCH longer tailshafts...), what all would be needed to make things work? I'm assuming the minimum I need to do: Nissan flywheel drilled to fit ea81 nissan clutch and pressureplate Adapter plate? Transmission mounts all of that seems fairly easy to do, take the flywheel to a machine shop to get that drilled and balanced. I'm not sure how to go about making an adapter plate tho. also, if I'm gonna have things apart and swapping things out, what other tranmission should I look at? maybe find a larger flywheel and pressureplate and find a clutch disc that is big enough and will fit on a nissan input shaft..... anyways its 3am... lol

... yeah, I almost broke my thumb the other day. Sure is sore, wont ever do that again... I was gonna post this awhile ago but I got sidetracked, was wheeling up on the farm, had to back down something, tire caught on a rock, turned it really fast and BAM, crack go my thumb against the steering wheel. also, wanna give props to Albie out at Allied Armament. He gave up a good portion of his work day to fix my camber, on short notice, for no cost. My subaru handles sooo much better now. for all those looking to lift ea81 wagons, top holes/plate in the strut extenion need to be offset about 2.3 inches outward from the bottom for a 6" lift, or have the ends of the extension cut at a 22 degree angle(for any amount of lift).

in all reality, especially if you get swampers, unless you plan on doing a lot of serious mods to your car($$$$$$$$$$$$) 27-28" will be absolutely FINE, just make sure you have some good skid plates. I built my 6" lift, and 31s fit fine with minimal rubbing(most of it in the back cause I havent gotten around to banging/trimming etc...). My clutch was relatively new when I got the car(about 5k miles), and I've only put about 2k miles on it since last november, and after driving it with those tires for about 2-3 weeks my clutch is hurtin. granted I wasnt especially good to it doing all these nice smokey burnouts(which it cant do anymore), but I toasted a majority of it trying to get over hills when I was out mudding. you will have all the traction you need with 27-29" swampers. if you got a slugamatic, I'd say go for the big tires, but seriously upgrade your transmission cooling system.

I wanna learn how to do this kinda crap with sheet metal, but I aint got nothing but a rough idea, bfh and a torch.... ? dunno how to make sheet metal look nice without a bunch of sharp edges and tons of pop rivits... though now that I think about it, pop rivits and many plates of sheet metal would make quite an interesting and unique looking frankenstein of a car

anything above 20mpg is good. I got 21mpg in my subaru last weekend going up to the farm, 55 the whole way, in 3rd the whole way(didnt need as much gas to keep going as in 4th...). thats with 31" tires when I first got my car, I was averaging about 12-14 mpg, I then rebuilt my hitachi carb. honestly after working on my dads nissan with a 32/36 I'm tempted to steel his weber.

my current fenders are fubar... I also dont have an english wheel or whatever it is, I couldnt get that lip back on the stock flares for the wheel wheel lining th ing, or give the rigidity back lost when I cut the opening 3" bigger. flares look cheesy in my opinion too... and making a mold and making something out of fiberglass is really easy metal bends, doesnt crack. fiberglass DOES NOT BEND, and will be considerably messed up much easier. carbon fiber is waaay stronger and if you make it right(ie no fiberglass on the bottom layers like those cheap cf parts ricers get... and use the right kind of resin etc... ) and have the equipment, it will also flex when under a load instead of break and crack, and when it gets to its breaking point it will leave a small single crack in the finish/resin/whatever and not shatter or spiderweb or anything.

that light is going to be one of those spot lights that are controlable from inside the cab... they're expensive for good ones yeah... I'm thinking more and more about how I could beef up the mounts for this bumper though, seems like 4 bolts would be the week link if I make it too much heavier or stronger. the whole thing is gonna be made out of .188"(3/16") 2"x2" square tubing. I think I'm going to cut some channel to run along the length of the skid plate and bolt to the engine cross member and have that come out and up at the angle of the stinger, and then brace back towards the bumper mounts, and then some straight down to the middle of the bumper. but it would also block the 3rd eye. I'll get some rectangular lights to fit between the bumper, or possibly figure out a way to mount some lights down on the control arms