scrap487

yeah most people run the 32/36 with the manual or electric choke. water choke I've heard can be a pain. I want to go but thats a long drive for my subaru which isnt quite freeway um, safe, yet. my horrible camber is the biggest problem. I will have new tires by then and I dont want to put so many highway miles on tires that probably wont even last 10-12 months for me(I've been driving about 25-30k a year...). if I can find some beater rims and street treads for cheap before then I'm definately game. except for my lift and shocks and tires, my subaru drivetrain is all stock.

well.. I would have had a lot more of it done, provided I had a drill press. I didnt really think about that untill I got the old bumper off, and then I realized so I had to take the old bumper mounts, getting those off took well over an hour. cut them up, welded the bar, and then it got too late and I didnt want to wake the neighbors. man, welding small guage metal with 1/8" E6011 stick is a pain in the BUTT... but I got it done. on thursday I'll finish putting my bumper together, and on friday I'll make better mounts. also another PITA was dealing with the motor for the 3rd eye, I couldnt get the peice of metal up higher or closer in to the body like I wanted to cause of it. I plan on fixing that later too. this is sort of what I plan on: (red are lights) er actually after thinking about it... I dont think I'll need or want the roof light bar... lol. inways the bull bar part of it will be at a slant forward, and the whole thing will sit about 2" higher and much closer to the body when I am done with it, I just need to figure out how to move the motor for the third eye

nice... jeeps werent beating you up too bad eh? or was it a rock that took out your headlight

yeah... I dont have the tools to make one at the moment though :-( tires are a little to big, that hill is pretty steep, the gearing was fine but they rub sooo f***ing much wouldnt be a subaru without it yeah albie from AA who made my strut tops was supposed to come out and fix it, they said they would get camber within 0.5 degree of spec, and its barely within 6 degree of spec. handles really funny on the highway. if he doesnt fix it I'll either end up taking them off and welding a new plate on them or one of my dads friends said he'd help me make some out of cast alluminum.

first pics of my subaru offroad so far... first real time I actually had it out(2 hours) away from home. may upload more later.

yeah... pretty sure cooper owns them

alright if i can find a straighter set of fenders I'll do it. I dont have much time to look around for them though, at least not during the day.

yeah I dont know the process for carbon fiber, all I know is its incredibly strong and i've heard that it can also be quite ductile. fiber glass is easy, just dont wanna have to wait for one to cure and then paint it every time I bash one in. what about other plastics, or even polyurethane with some kinda of mesh/chicken wire and sheetmetal strips.... could bash the hell out of that... high density foam sounds like it'd be loads easier, I was thinking maybe taking a fender, slappin some clay on it and shaping it how i want and then making a mold. if anyone wants to donate a set of fairly straight(if such a thing exists..) ea81 fenders, its something I can easily do on the side down in the basement a few minutes at a time. if I had one now I bet I could have a good mold in 2 weeks. i kind of want to make the flares wide and tall enough I can make a slot for some round fog lights to fit in there... I think it would be pretty cool.

I've been thinking about what it would take to make fenders for my ea81... I dont know what all materials I should consider using. the three that come to mind immediately are fiberglass, carbon fiber and sheet metal. I'm pretty sure there are other materials out there, but I dont really know anything about them. a friend of my dads is a sculptur and does a lot of work with mold making and would be willing to help me out with such a project. ok first off, my goals are: more tire clearance wider to cover tires DURABLE possible mount for a light and antenna I know fiberglass is out of the question because it is weak and brittle and wont last long offroad. I've heard carbon fiber is very strong, and also very light weight, but can it equal that of sheet metal? I also dont like the look of carbon fiber so I would most likely end up painting it(I dont care about weight). how can I make nice looking fenders out of sheetmetal the shape I want with the same contours? what else is there? and lastly... if I did make some fenders, I would most likely have molds left over, would anybody be interested in aftermarket fenders? probably a modest charge for labor and cost of material. they wouldnt cost very much at all probably compared to what most aftermarket body parts cost... also not sure how I would get both sides close to the same

1981 ea81 wagon d/r 4 speed manual 6" custom made lift 15" nissan pathfiner alloys 31x10.5 15 wildcat a/t 2005 blank hyundai leather seats custom exhaust FUBARB hitatch 2bbl carb near future plans: going to add 2" of lift in rear(either going to cast 8" blocks or use 8x2x2 instead of 6x2x2 that I have now) modify rear torsion tube and arms to soften just a little and gain more travel adjustable control arms and radius rod(front) poly urethane bushings and motor/tranny mount longer shift linkage front bumper(making it on friday ) webber custom aluminum center console probably forgetting a few things...

you'll have to tell me where... last time I was out in scappoose looking for trails n stuff was about a year ago and I couldnt find anything that wasnt gated.

ok, well so I've lifted my rig and put 31" tires on it. I have the rear cranked up all the way cause of rubbing issues. have 32" rancho es3000 shocks in the back. I like the way it rides, but the front is all the way cranked down with stock struts and everything and is very soft compared to the back. I also have really bad camber in the front. anyways my question is, my car doesnt fall apart driving on the highway(anymore, lost a wheel going 65mph a couple weeks ago...) , but it handles really odd. steering is harder at highway speeds, and I *think* what it feels like it is doing is oversteering. it does not feel very safe. I am wondering if the camber problems could cause oversteer, or if it would be suspension related? I'm kind of tired right now and having a hard time explainin this, and I dont really know very much when it comes to onroad handling of suspension setups....

soo apparently the old race track out by portland meadows has been fenced off... I'm wantin to go for a short run in my subaru... but I dont know anywhere thats closer than 2 hours from here, tillamook is only about 45 min-1hour but I dont really feel like buying a atv permit yet. sigh... living in the city sucks

those arent tall enough... comon guys we need 4-6+ inches of lift give me a later model and I'll make it happen:brow:

wow... for being a real mess, that thing turned out nice... I want a hatch so bad now...

so as far as I know I'm still going... I'm gonna head up there, but I dont trust my rig faster than 45mph at this point so I'll likely be heading up 30 and some side roads. if you wanna meet up REALLY early I know a couple cool places to check out on the way up

yeah, thats what I was going to do cause I dont have any money... its just not as effective that way.

ok... theres a really good driveline shop kinda near where I live, I'm pretty sure they can modify some halfshafts for pretty cheap, probably even rebuild them better than most reman'd shafts you can buy too. so I'm gonna consider a mod like this next on my to-do list after I get my lift blocks welded and tied together, seeing as i already have bad camber edit: also would it be safe to make them a multi peice unit, to allow for a camber adjustment? thinking kinda set it up like an oversized turnbuckle... if not maybe I could make some to use just for an allignment rack so I can get the measurements totally accurate.

I dont know anything about abs... so i have no idea what that means lol :confused:

ok did some more reading... guess this kinda thing is pretty comon, i just didn't know about it.. :-p so I guess any who are wondering, i dont know how ABS works exactly, but traction control is pretty the opposite of ABS... with abs, speed sensor detects when a wheel starts to slow down, so the system lessens the braking force on that wheel untill its closer to the speed of the other wheels, and then repeats. it can cycle up to 15 times a second. traction control will increase the braking force on a wheel when a speed sensors detects a wheel going faster than the others. so now my question is, what vehicles that are easily found at a junkyard came with traction control, how could we addapt it to work with our subaru, how hard/safe would the plumbing/fitting be, and what would it take to fit the proper hardware to the wheels... all on an ea81 wagon and I assume, that with traction control ABS comes with it?

I'd rather go live axle first I think... I dont know much about the ea82s rear suspension setup, but the only way I could see getting large amounts of travel out of it is adapting some kind of double wishbone setup(I think thats what it is... kinda tired right now)... and yes, shocks would be a huge problem... maybe find a way to fab up coil spring mounts seperate from shock mounts and do away with the struts all together?

so... that means I should? got too many cool ideas going through my head.... and I'm halfway coherant so they're finding their way out just a little easier

this may or may not have been talked about before, but I forgot which newer vehicle it was coming on, I think it was the toyota FJ cruiser thats supposed to come out sometime this year. I read about how they have some sort of brake system setup, so when its engaged it regulates fluid pressure between all 4 wheels to keep them all moving the same speed. I dont know how it works, but I imagine its gotta involve a computer of some sort... anyone wanna take a wild guess at what it would take to develop and adapt a comperable system to a subaru? such a system seems like it would be extremely effective and beneficial for most situations, not as good as front and rear locking differantials, but much better than LSDs... this make sense to anyone? what it is designed to do is increase the brake fluid pressure in the line going to the wheel that is slipping, causing more power/torque to the wheel that is turning slower with more traction. I have no idea how this system operates, but I'm guessing its something electrical?

okay I might be a little bit far out on this one.... I was looking around at some later model toyota long travel kits, most of them were designed for baja/desert racing type applications. many of them widen the front stance of the vehicle to gain more travel out of the ifs... to do the same to a subaru I imagine it wouldnt be all that hard, rather than using an offset, or an angled strut top extension to correct the camber when lifting a subaru, building a longer control arm or a arm or whatever its called instead, or depending on how far out you want to go offset/angle the strut extensions the wrong way. I know longer arms have been discussed in the passed but I'm not sure if it was considered as a way to get more travel out of the front vs trying to correct bad camber. now that I think about this its not that crazy of an idea, I'm kinda surprised I havent heard of anyone trying it out yet. the only con I can think of when doing such a thing is reducing the subarus ability to stradle obstacles, but I dont see that becoming a huge problem; and also making tight fits just a little bit tighter. one thing that could be done to help counter act some of this is rims with more backspacing. well tell me what you guys think, my subaru is about to become my daily driver, and if enough people think its a good idea, I'll be trying it out. [edit] forgot to mention/think about axles... would need to have axles lengthened most likely which I cant imagine being too expensive; custom made axles($$$); or axles/hubs/stubs from a differant vehicle...

:banana: my major concern is how much longer can the torsion bar take? cause if I fab up a trailing arm that is say 3 or 4 times the length of the current one, doesnt that put more leverage and stress on the torsion bar? would it also cause for a softer ride, or would it be about the same after I reclocked it? and honestly, aside from dropping the differantial or going to a solid axle setup, I havent solved the axle problem, I just want to see what other issues would also need to be addressed