scrap487

i wouldnt think the trailing arms would be a limiting factor if you made them longer. compression travel is solved by more lift, differant shocks, dropped diff, all of which is easy to do...

how is it people get giant amounts of travel out of toyotas and nissans that are IFS?

meh, I dont have a problem dropping my differantial, I can make a skidplate I can bash the hell out of(I need one anyways). I have 6" of lift, I forget exactly what the specifications of the shocks I used are, but I have somewhere around 12-15" of travel in them I believe. right now the only thing they limit is the travel up, and my tires will rub the crap out of my fenderwells before they bottom out. maybe use a differant type of halfshaft? have one made that can handle high angles? I imagine it would cost probably 200-300$ to have one made. but OTHER THAN AXLE ANGLES, I want to know if my idea for gaining travel out of the rear is the way to go.

yes I know, strain on them is going to be incredible, and I have some ideas how to deal with that; one of them being fabbing up new mounts for the differantial to keep it in the stock location, maybe drop it just a little bit to allow a little more droop. anyways...

been thinking about ideas for maximizing travel out of the rear... I was thinking about moving the rear torsion bar forward a bit(more like alot...) and building some type of longarm setup to get more travel out of the rear... not considering axle angles, is this feasible? what other things do I need to take into consideration, or am I thinking about this all wrong, or is it less work and better just to go to a live axle setup? detailed imput appreciated, as something like this will be in the near future. thanks

anything is possible... but it shouldnt be that hard. if you have access bandsaw/cutoff saw and a drill press its not very hard at all to make your own lift. you will need a welder however to build any kind of strut top extensions and also to extend your steering shaft. suspension lifts arent very feasible on subarus because you wont gain much downward travel and you will eat through axles at an alarming rate.

I'm worried about fixing the front end castor before anything else, because its causing a lot of rubbing on that side, I can turn full lock no rubbing at all to the left, but I can hardly turn at all to the right without rubbing. if I can fix this, running 31x10.50 tires w/ 6" lift without issues is a reality.

ok, I finally got my subaru on one of those high tech fancy allignment racks at my school... aside from my toe being off by about 3" and haveing 5.9 degrees of camber on the passanger side and 4.8 on the drivers side... got really bad castor on the passanger side, or at least the wheel is 3 inches closer to the floorboards than the drivers side. I also got bad camber and castor on the passanger rear... I know none of these have adjustments... but what are some things I can do towards fixing this? wondering what I should be looking at in particular cause nothing appears bent or damaged. I do know that a truck had backed into front passanger fender(repaired with some half rump roast body work), and a fairly long peice of 4x4 fell on the drivers fender, all before I got it.

yeah just get an ac compressor from a junkyard

if its something other than the choke, PLEASE let me know, because I have the same problem... it has been better recently but it is still there. I used to think it was a carb problem... but after cleaning and rebuilding twice, with not much change after the first time...

also the low range gearing ratio on subarus is a lot lower, i think 1.8:1 on ea81 models to 1.2:1 on later subaru models... typical 4wd systems have a gear reduction around 2.5:1 up to 6:1(that I've seen stock)

:lol:

well in my N/A ea81 wagon that only likes to run on 3 cylinders alot, I've had that thing up to around 90-95 I think(redline in 4th gear, 4mt)... and still pulling but not nuf gears. although I know they aint subarus... but i've had my 93 jeep cherokee when it was stock with the 4.0L motor up to around 150 when it hit the rev limiter, and my nissan 720 maxxed out on a steep downgrade at about 90mph(thing doesnt have ANYTHING above 45mph, thanks to 322k miles on original engine.. )

what I was trying to say is, you can make whatever tire and wheel combo you want work, it just depends on how much work you are willing to dond what you want. as for gearing, i dont have a problem at all with 31s... I can still peel out, maintain 70mph on the highway easy, and I stopped in some really sick sticky soft deep gumbo mud last saturday and I didnt have a problem getting going(thick stuff I sunk about 6-8" deep into..)

JESUS.. its not like every other post in the forums talks about it. best way to go is to see what fits, works for you and what looks good... and proper fit for oversize tires is best done on your own by trial and error. I have 6" lift and 31x10.50x15 rims. they rub really bad, but if I got the strength in my arm it wouldnt be too hard to make 35s fit. if you want to tear into fenders and floorboards and stuff enough you could fit any size tire you want on there.

if I dont have anything else going, I will be there FOR SURE.

81 ea81 wagon, 4mt d/r 6" homemade lift 05 hyundai black leather seats 15" nissan pathfinder rims 31x10.50 wildcats e3000 procomp shocks in rear blood sweat tears 1 month 60-70 beers about $900 total spent so far(including cost of buying the car) coming this spring and summer: 31" swampers, nissan tcase, nissan rear axle, not sure what all I'm gonna do to the front. possible rear coil over setup. I want to get another 2 inches higher than it is now, and want to maximize travel. weber, machined ea71 heads, belt driven aircompressor(probably use an a/c compressor). front and rear air lockers, winch, armor, probably more..

i just checked, they are the es3000s, and they were like $34 each at 4wheelparts

I havent seen the car at all... from what I was told there is a ticking once in a while that becomes very loud and the oil pressure drops, sounded to me like oil pump was bad, but also said when she is hard on the accelerator that it burns some oil. her mechanic was saying it had thrown some bearings, but my guess is maybe cause of a bad oil pump seal, probably getting air in the oil has screwed up something with the heads. ?

ok, a friend of my dads has an 86 subaru wagon, I dont know its history at all, its in good shape, 90k miles... anyways, going to go look at it on friday to help her try to figure out whats wrong with the engine, not sure but sounds like may be an oil pump, or possibly something serious, not sure. her mechanic doesnt know subarus very well and she thinks he may be trying to screw her around, he says it needs a new engine, and quoted her some ungodly price. she doesnt want to sell it but if it needs a new engine she will most likely try to sell it away for a few hundred dollars, and considering I know people here who deal with this stuff everyday and can swap an engine in only a couple hours, I'm hoping I can get someone to come out with me on friday and help diagnose the problem, and if it does by chance need a new engine, swap it out for a reasonable rate. this is around portland/vancouver area. anyone interested plz lemme know.

it was really easy, pounded out the top of the old shocks, bolt it up, bolted the bottom together... really except for pound out the top bracket its just like replacing your shocks normally... i think they are the es1000 or whatever... supposedly the equivalent of the rancho rs5000... I was gonna get rancho rs5012 but they only had one shock but they had 2 of the explorer procomp shocks with the same specs so I got them, and they were a few bucks cheaper.

that is true, it is not steep enough which is why my camber is off. btw, I took it out to the mud pit with some explorer pro comp shocks on it(stiffer than all hell), havent fixed up my 4wd linkage yet, so it was in 2wd... thing waaay outperformed my jeep, the mud was the worst sticky gumbo kind that was deep... and I stopped moving and thought it was over, and then it started right back up again and got me out no complaints... I am truly amazed at this vehicle, it blew my mind tonight. I mean, yeah I thought it would be okay, but I was like, eh, wont quite be as good as my jeep or nissan, and wow... I'm just like... wow

did someone say pizza and beer?

lol... hey might as well make a turret and mount a .50 cal up top, never know when you might need to get a deer off the road quick the only real benefit I see to rockrails is protecting the floorboard, and protecting the doors so if you do land on a rock you can still open and shut your doors... I'm more concerend about my driveshaft and differantial and oil pan to be honest, mostly because my driveshaft now sits below the frame rails w/ 6" body lift.

after much delibiration and blood and sweat(aka my girlfriend has got me whipped...) I wont be making it. I still plan on heading out to the hills at some point tomorrow so I'll be sure to get a video or at least some pictures.