scrap487

60psi!?!?!?!

mmk... well I'm gonna take the engine out of the back, and hook everything up so I can drive it and we'll find out I guess. I just figure since its not springs and stuff and that its just blocks that nothing would need to settle... o well.

wow... longest vid I've seen on here in a while... pretty cool... does your engine got a lil TOD?

I dont have a way of measuring it right now, but its definately not stock... up close it looks like 15 degrees at least...

but but but... the tranny mount is hanging exactly 6" below the frame, putting the blocks in and bolting them up wouldnt make a big differance, but either way, its all coming back together bad camber or not...

well to tell the truth, I still need to make my blocks for the tranny(right now its just hanging there), I would be doing that right now but the neighbors wouldnt like to hear my chop saw this late at night for the next hour or so... I havent driven it at all, need to extend shift linkages and get brakelines first... the struts havent had any weight on them for about a week ago when I had taken them off, could that cause some of this?

ok you're missing the point, its a 6inch lift, and it IS on the ground with all the weight on it. although there is an engine and a transfercase in the back with some tools, but I dont think that should raise up the front that much if at all... oh yeah, also after thinking about it... isnter there supposed to be a 22 degree angle or so on the struts? I dont remember seeing much of an angle if any on the strut tops I got from AA... call em tomorrow and see whats up

yeah, well its hard to get a good picture at night but here they are

uh crap... i just redid it 3 differant ways... um... ************... still really bad, have pics in a sec

well, I got my 6" strut extensions from AA today, and I got the struts bolted together and on today, car is back on the ground. I'm really stoked about all that... w/ the 23" tires on there the front bumper like comes up to my waist, and I'm gonna be making 30's fit on that thing anyways, point for this post is... I thought for some stupid reason the strut extensions would be interchangable from right and left, so I didnt bother making sure I had the right one on either side... well everything was going so easy I was amazed, I was like, wasnt I supposed to pound out part of the wheel well to make these things fit? well, apparently that was way too good to be true, you wouldnt believe what my camber looks like. so now I'm just taking a small break before I go back to take it all apart again.... BLAH

hmm... there must have been a prototype? I gotta see this

ok I might have asked this before or someone else may have... but the search function isnt working for me right now anyways, I'm wondering what shock people have used with a 6" lift on a ea81 wagon? looking for something I can just bolt right in and have the length and everything be right with no fabrication, that and I want to go with some decent shocks. thanks Trevor

hey... it doesnt matter what car you're trimming on, the principles remain the same regardless. dont cut fender supports, relocate them if you need to, careful cutting near brake lines, fuel lines, and make sure there arent any electrical stuff where youre cutting. good way to find out where it rubs is with it on the ground turn the wheel back and forth and look around the tire where it would be close if the tire got pushed into the wheel well. rubbing is mostly a problem while turning. make sure you when you cut metal you sand prime and pant exposed metal to prevent rust. rubbing really isnt that bad, as long as nothing is damaging the tire, might rip off the occassional fender flare and dent things up but if its for offroad use, stuff like that is gonna happen anyways, as long as it isnt causing problems for the tire you're fine.

dont most tools have lifetime warrenties... thats obviously a defect...

wow... holy crap... I forgot who made my breaker bars(they're like 50yrs old, company probably doesnt exist anymore..), i've put a peice of 4ft pipe on em and used it with my floorjack(4 ton...) and I've always broken the bolts/studs/nuts and the occasional socket, but never broken a breaker bar....

yeah start with the solenoid... check your local parts store, dont know if the start solenoid is part of the starter rump roast'y but I know you can get it for less than 100$ as for your ignition... thats not your problem, and w/out your ignition you car cannot run. gas needs a spark to ignite in most gas engines...

what have you done and/or checked so far? place to start would be at the battery and work your way to the ignition and starter system, check for continuity, make sure your battery is fully charged(i think 12.6V or higher w/out engine running) and has close to the number of cold cranking amps indicated on the battery, and that your alternatory works good(voltage at battery should be something like 14.1 volts with car running). check all wires and connections, check fuses, check your grounds, many if not most electrical problems stem from having bad grounds. other than that, theres not much more I know to say without more information. hope that helps a little.

wow... I dont know if its floating or not... the front and hood is covered in mud, but anyone notice the how clean the sides of the care is? maybe its an empty gas tank that gives so much flotation in the back... oh wait, what gastank....

That is fricken awesome sht... dude, you're my hero...

do you have any experiance with bicycles? I'd just figure out what lengths you need and then go to a bike shop and have them cut the cable and shield for you.

yeah its been discussed before... but that does bring a couple interesting ideas to mind... possible rear engine 4x4? dual engine rig? take an extra engine and mount it on the hood or in the back where the hatch used to be and put a prop on it? kind of an interesting idea actually.. would be waaay heavy but...

replacing syncros sounds like its a little above your head, for you its probably better, faster and cheaper just to replace the whole transmission... when you do that you should give the old one to me

i also here about some valvoline redline synth gear oil or something like that... dont know much about it but try searching, it is expensive tho... I dont know about subarus, but I assume they're the same as everything else, syncros are usually these brass rings that have a beveled edge that leads up to the teeth and matches up with the gear... best way to preserve them is using the right oil, and double declutching. I'll attach some pics of the guts of a transmission out of a 5spd nissan 720. the reason the input shaft is weird is cause the needle/pilot bearing went.

one more thing to add, just because the rear shafts look ok, it doesnt mean they are ok. grab them and see if there is any play at all, both shaking back and forth and trying to rotate. I have the same problem, put it in 4wd and my half shaft makes a horrible noise, I get under there and try and rotate it, and there is a HUGE amount of play in the axle joints.

i wouldnt know, but it doesnt take long to get a hub off. I heard that ea81 and ea82 may have used differant axles? or at least had differant spline counts? I dont know what I'm talking about but if you dont get any better info I'd just take the 20 minutes or so it takes to get a hub off and see. if the axles are differant I think you'd be better off finding the "correct" replacement for the hubs.