scrap487

and absolutely DO NOT USE that coolant leak repair ************, it does not work, not only will they take your money, waste your time, it will cause MANY more problems down the road and will make the intial repair much more difficult than it needs to be. people dont buy it because it "works", they buy it because they dont know anybetter and think that adding something like that will help them avoid a costly repair when in fact it will make it more costly and decrease the life and performance of your engine.

i dont know of the correct procedure for a subie as I havent done one yet, but I have to say it is a LOT easier to do than any other non-subaru car, very easy to get at everything... I imagine the way to go about it for a subaru is unbolt the intake manifold from the block, move it up out of the way, say like where the spare tire sits, might need to undo some brackets and misc stuff that holds vac lines n stuff to the block/intake. if you want think you could brake the motor and tranny mounts loose to rotate the engine, but it might be more work than its worth, but that way you will be working on the head a little bit more in the open. as far as taking the head off I think you take off the valve cover(2 bolts each I think) and unbolt the head, take care when taking off the head as there is a specific order in which to loosen the bolts to help insure the head does not warp when it is removed. after that I'd take your heads in to get machined and maybe shaved and ported while you have them off if you can afford it, and assembly is somewhat the reverse of install with new gasket, I have never done this myself so I know I am missing some things, but should give you a general idea of what kinda work its gonna need(not a whole lot).

cause $300 for a running car sure beats $600

cool that helps alot... so essentially theres a whole crap load that can be taken off of a stock unturned flywheel

depends on exactly what you want to do, then with that, you find what you want and make it work. search function is a very good tool, these boards are full of information about everything

cheap is possible, easy, depends on your perception of easy... its not hard at all to fab stuff up for a subie, but theres not much out there that just bolts right up.

hmm... where about in washington are you? you think you might be able to tell me a good place to go or help me find an engine? I think I might just put in another z24 just to simplify everything so i can get it back on the road asap. I gotta take that back, 322k miles with a lot of offroad use and never a major rebuild, I think thats a pretty tough engine. playing with the idea of a subaru powered nissan... since so many people use nissan drivetrain parts for their subarus... lol gonna send you a pm in a second

are these pictures of the same flywheels in varrying stages of weight loss or what am I looking at it? sorry for bringing back a thread so old but I'm curious, thanks trevor

well I dont know anything about the vg30 but I might go with that... I dont like the z24 that much, and the one I got is definately quite a bit LESS powerful than a rebuilt ea81. I dont like working on z24s, I dont like the Z series of engines at all, and they arent all that tough. the thing is here, its all about what i have to work with right now: not very much money and spare ea81 waiting for a rebuild. yeah its gonna cost some to rebuild the ea81, but it should be cheaper than buying an engine rebuilt by someone else. and if it works with the nissan tranny I'd be set... I've heard JDM engines are like grenades waiting to go off...

ok I was coming back from the gorge today in my dads 83 nissan 720 4x4 pickup w/ the z24 and 322k all original miles(nothing rebuilt except head 60k miles ago) and a rod bearing blows, ended up driving back to portland at 30mph w/ smoke n crap goin everywhere... just picked up an ea81 I was planning to rebuild and soop it up for my wagon, but now considering possible swap into the nissan since a good z24 isnt readily available for it. anyone know what might be required to make an ea81 work with a nissan transmission? I know its probably not the best swap for a nissan pickup but its what I got right now, and I know the ea81 is tougher than the z24, and its smaller, but it wont put out as much power as a good z24(it will however put out a LOT more power than my tired z24 had before it toasted the bearing). the other idea I was playing with was maybe get and ea81 and a 4spd d/r transmission and put that in? I didnt really want to play with the linkages, but its gonna essentially be the same thing as one of those monster soobs with a nissan tcase n stuff, be kinda sweet to have a 16 or 20 speed pickup with an insane crawl ratio. lemme know what you guys think, I'm gonna go see if I can find out anything about the nissan transmission.

solid mounts on a frame that is designed to flex is a disaster waiting to happen, if you dont like the amount of twisting get new mounts and/or polyurethane mounts, urethane is a lot more rigid but not solid and will last much much longer. you WILL break stuff with solid mounts.

might be hard to make something like that come up out of the hood, easier to come out the sides by the fenders.... I'm not really worried about things getting wet other than my intake, it would be kinda cool to have 2 straight pipes come out each side through the fender, it'd be obnoxious as hell, the ea81 isnt the most attractive sounding engine I'd rather have good drainage vs being able to float

arent those the transfercases that you have to mount at a weird angle? I wouldnt mind but I wont have time to get to that or have any money for that project till later... what are the gear ratios on the lada tcases again? if its better than a nissan tcase I might want one a couple months down the line. really I want to find something with like a 4:1 gear reduction.

i got the same thing going on right now... both ujoints on my rear driveshaft are toast and one cv in the rear is gone, there is so much play in the shaft its not even funny.

just sold my jeep, registration expired on my nissan and my subaru is waiting on strut extensions(thing is currently in many many pieces)... so i wont be going where there is any fun this weekend

um... what other runnin gear you packin? hope you got gears, a tcase and solid axles or somethin other than the stock subaru axles... and brakes for sure.. what all you got into this rig?

um yeah... get a measuring tape and do the math! best way to figure it out for your vehicle.

I thought a dual range transmission was preferred?

becareful how you mounting them... mounting them too close to your case underneath it may cause some damage due to heat... I know from experiance :-p

electric fan... I've never owned a true fwd car before... I keep forgetting its fwd when I'm not driving it

what? really? aren't the motor mounts and tranny mounts supposed to do that? I've never seen that on any other car I've had

okay got front end bolted together except for the struts, getting the extensions from AA hopefully on friday. a few problems I ran into: brake line passanger side was a tad short, easy fix by removing bracket off the strut fuel lines and some vacuum lines required work, had to move/remove brackets holding them in place and rerout a few, and will have to get some longer ones both rad hoses seem to be good, although lower one looks like its almost about to collapse because its too long. part of airbox got in the way, the part that sticks out near the heat riser thing. needs trimming to clear rad hose dont leave your hood open when its raining, I did, went up to take the airbox out and all the water puddle up on top leaked down into the carb as soon as I loosened the screw... hopefully it wasnt enough to cause any problems your steering shaft may have been long enough, mine sure wasnt. there was a long narrow rod that stuck out from the firewall that attached to the bellhousing, with bushings on both ends, no apparent reason for it being there but engine got hung up on that... can someone tell me what thats for? it looks like its brass or something. oh yeah you gotta take off your skid plate and all that mud guard crap underneath the engine more later, pics tomorrow during light

really? i was gonna have AA make my strup tops, they said they would be within .5 degree of spec. I'll make sure when I call them in a minute to make sure this won't be a problem, thanks.

um... brat... for sure btw, I believe the 4spd d/r tranny is stronger and has a better low range than the 5spd? am I correct?

just sold my jeep, lift will be done this weekend, but wont have tires till feburary... I'll be driving around with a car higher than most suvs and trucks on the stock size cookie cutters so second weekend in febuary maybe?