scrap487

if i was in colorado, i'd apply, although if he'd be willing to help out w/ relocation costs...

eh I dunno, i havent need a line wrench for anything else and it seems like this is a job I'll only be doing once or twice at best. anyways my progress thus far has been to get the rear subframe rump roast'y dropped... friggin exhaust hangers and heat sheilds that run along the exhaust hung everything up and it took me the longest time to figure that out too well tomorrow I will bolt everything up, and hopefully be able to weld things up in the rear and(optimistic...) get the front end taken apart and ready to put together.

nope... one of my friends might tho, I'm not gonna worry about it till I get everything else done later... who needs brakes anyways p.s. I suggest you dont drive on the road when I do...

ok I encountered another problem... brake lines too short(duh), so since I know I didnt need them I ended up cutting them, I couldnt get them off any other way to let the rear subframe thingy drop down enough. any tips/pointers/advice/etc.. to get them off? thanks

bolt penetrator = friend I gotta get me sum airtools

I wish I had known about you a week ago

haha, measuring from the body or the differantial hey I'm going 4 wheelin tomorrow morning with my jeep, anyone wanna come along to tow me out? I need to get into some extreme stuff and take pictures so maybe people will be more interested in my jeep. I'm thinking bout either heading out to estacada or tillamook unless someone else knows better spots to go that are closer.

well I'm using 14 lift blocks, if thats what you are asking. I'm using my rear trailer hitch to jack up on and place jackstands on while I work on the rear, I'm not sure how I'm gonna hold up the front untill I look at it really good. I dont need long bolts for the lift, because I'm using rectangular tubing, I will be using 2" bolts. if I find I need long bolts I can either get some all-thread or go down to oregon spring or some machine shop and have them made if I need it. I'm getting rid of my lifted jeep cherokee that sits on 31s, I wont settle for any less ground clearance than I had with that. btw if anyone wants a lift jeep cherokee that has seen some pretty good offroad use, I'm asking 1500... I need it to buy my tires and pay off my dad..

well I'm finally getting around to putting the lift on my rig, thought I'd make a thread just to keep track of what I'm doing and my progress, also for others to look at and maybe give me pointers on stuff that might be better to do differant or to give other people ideas. this is a basic 6" body lift, using 6"x2" 3/16" rectangular tubing with 2" square tubing to tie the blocks together. i haven't decided what I'm going to do about the struts in the front, for the rear shocks I will be replacing them with longer shocks, and hopefully will be able to find something that wont require much modification/fabrication. got the metal and stuff for my lift last night, cut it up and drilled it at my old highschool in their machine shop... their equipment is from the 30s so its kinda rough and not very "straight" anymore, meaning my blocks are also kinda rough and hopefully dont need the holes to be lined up perfect... anyways, I'm getting started on the back tonight. I will bolt things up and get stuff ready to weld for tomorrow, my neighbors suck so i can only really work untill about 9 or 10pm before they start to whine about the noise. I have a camera and I want to post pictures as I go, but could someone tell me how to post pictures in the usmb photo gallery? I havent figured it out.

well... its most likely the to bearing going bad, if and when you replace it, replace EVERYTHING at the same time to save yourself down the road(clutch disc, pressureplate, throwout bearing, etc... etc... ). if its always whining/whurring or whatever, try changing the gear oil in your transmission, if what comes out looks to be brown, opaque, silvery(and possibly having many tiny metal flakes), your oil needs to be changed and/or there may be internal problems such as a bearing wearing down(is it hard shifting in and out of any of your gears?)

for the rear shocks I'm just gonna find longer shocks and modify the shock mounts on the car. I remember comming across some type of shock tho that worked just right but I forget what car it was. I dont need a chop saw anymore, but I am still n need of a drill press that can drill the holes in the 6x2 .188 tubing. I think the hardest part is actually making the strut top extensions in the front.

sorry to hear about that yeah, I remembered why I wanted hubs on the rear, so I can weld it.

picked up my uncles welder tonight, getting my metal tomorrow(i hope..), and refilling my argon bottle. probably gonna start tomorrow night, hope to have the lift DONE by the next night. will be finish for sure if anyone experianced comes along to keep me from screwing everything all to hell... I am still in need of a drill press and I'm not quite sure how I should drill out the holes in the 2x6 tubing, should I just find a drill bit thats 7-8 inches long or hope I can get them both lined up right doing both holes seperately?

anything new on this project yet? I'm very interested, if no more news I'm tempted to go out and do it myself in a week or so. I have a question about the rear end on our subarus, if we have to use a nissan half shaft, will it work with our rear differantial or will we have to make some modification to it, or use a differant rear end? if we use a differant rear end, that probably means a differant gear ratio too, which means we need the same up front, which would mean this modification is only really good for a tcase rig? in which case, whats the point in putting hubs on the rear? so we can go back to fwd after adding a tcase? why would we want that? thanks! cant wait to hear about it

ok just to make sure I got this right: 10 days ago you changed your head gasket before you changed it, the brat needed 1 litre every 1000km but now it needs 1 litre every 200km okay, the pcv valve I believe is on the right side of the intake manifold, the side with cylinders 1 and 3. a vacuum hose comes off of it, and the pcv is screwed into the intake manifold, I cant describe how it looks exactly, but it should need a fairly large (deep)socket/wrench to pull it out, I think 17mm, but not quite sure, give or take a couple mm. I'll try to find a diagram that can show you in a minute. when you take the pcv off, it should rattle around when you shake it, if it doesnt, or if it barely does, soak it in gasoline or run a bunch of carb cleaner through it or something similar. clean it out really good.

my my... add a tcase and we got ourselves the next fj40 here... seriously though, nice job, nice camber too, shorter is way better for off road. hey if you build it up enough, you got plenty of lift to get you most places, just slap a little bit more armor on there and just floor it and flatten some bushes and make your own trail, who needs gears when you got momentum

damn, I guess I cant tune a carbed vehicle very well... maybe I should sell my jeep for parts and find a way to cram that 4.0L straight six(mpfi) in there with the transmission and transfercase and axles... my jeep weighs at least 1500lbs more and I get 18mpg with it... could you imagine a little 81 suby wagon with around 200hp and 230lbs torque? I'm sure I could make it fit once I got some lift on there.. actually I'm gonna go out and take some measurements, cause no ones made a reasonable offer on my jeep, yet...

jesus, I'm lucky if I get 250 off of a whole tank... maybe if I had a 5spd transmission...

hey I think this thread needed a bump anyways, should be in the faq if it isnt already

I dont know if I'll have much for tires by then, I hope to at the very LEAST have my lift done by then... I plan on going if i can make time, I dont know where it is so I'll probably have to find someone to follow from the area up there. if i dont have my soob ready I think I'll either go untill I get stuck and then ride with someone else, or I might take my jeep or my nissan... my nissan is stock height and tire size, but is tougher than nails so it might make it, my jeep is lifted w/ something like 32" tires, but they are more of a street a/t type tread, and its also, well, a heep of crap. who all from the portland/vancouver area plan on going?

lol no help yet.. I think I'll be able to handle it myself, yeah that gorge wind sucks, we have a place a few miles out of white salmon up there, makes me thankful I have a concrete pad to work on(even if it doesnt drain very well, puddles get about 3/4" deep in places); cause up there nothing but chunky gravel and mud. stumpy when are you planning to get started? (if not already..) cause I might be heading up the gorge sometime soon and if you still want some help I'd be happy to help you lift it, also since I'm gonna make my own it will help me to see how things work. I also got a multi-fuel forced air heater for christmas(115,000 BTU), been using it the last couple days, even when its raining it keeps things warm and dry outside around where ever I got that thing pointed.. its like a jet engine

so, one of the studs had rattled loose after a while, so I went under and tried to tighten it down(gently mind you...) and I ended up pulling the stud out. Okay, no big deal I'll just get some helicoils... well that worked for a little while, but today I'm driving along and I start hearing more of my exhaust than I should, I get under there and I check to see how tight it is, well the hole is stripped out again, and I'm not sure what to do now. I'm thinking about possibly just taking it down to an exhaust shop cause most of my exhaust is rusted out after the cat anyways and I dont have the tools to do that. how much bigger can I drill this hole? can I drill it any deeper to maybe get more threads in? I dont wanna have to be replacing my heads any time soon if I can avoid it...

um... search! its been discussed alot well expensive or a whole crap load of work or both. personally if a LSD doesnt get you where you need to go, I'd convert to a solid rear end after doing a tcase conversion and get some better gearing and end up with something alot cheaper and easier to find a locker for... either way like that guy said, you're gonna be driving a subaru worth $300 w/ $2000+ worth in modifications.

ok I'm gonna look it up in my fsm... BUT I know that if everything is in working order, it should read about 6 volts on the defroster. if it reads 12 volts, your break is further down the line, if it reads close to zero volts, you can assume your break in the circuit is further up the line(closer to the battery/switch). what car do you have? I dont know if it makes a differance but I only got a book for an ea81

ok so, heres my deal. I'm gonna get a bunch of free metal and most of what I need to make a lift for my subaru, I think I can get most of it myself, but there are a couple of skills I dont have yet and a couple of tools I dont have, and my only work place is out in the rain in my driveway, if it was below freezing I'm ok with that but i cannot STAND working in the rain laying on my back in a big puddle of water all day. anyways, my plan is to go 6 inches, all body lift, although if I can get some suspension lift in the back and then drop the differantial down I might do that if I can do it cheap. so anyone out there that has a good place to work and has access to some vital tools(such as chop saw/band saw, drill press, somethin other than a stick welder), and a bit more knowledge and/or have done this before, please contact me. by the way, since I'm a student I dont have much in the way of money(which is why I have a soob), I can get materials and consumables as needed; but you'll be helping me for enjoyment and pride and just cause lifting a soob is damn cool, rather than trying to make a pretty penny. thanks!