scrap487

sweet... I'll send you a pm... anyways I dont have to worry about smog, vehicle is registered up in washington on our farm 14 miles out of white salmon. I'm not to knowledgable about vacuum systems other than a few basic things, and I have a lot to learn about everything else but I'm deadly with a wrench and motivation. anyways I had my carb off my intake yesterday cleaning what i could get at without taking it apart... there are the fuel lines, and I think probably around 6 or so(?) vacuum lines and a couple electrical connections... not quite sure and its kinda late to go out and count em. edit: theres also a whole mess of vacuum lines that go to the air box... most of em I dont even know what they're for cause there cant be much of a vacuum in there.

I didnt mean to slam farm jacks... they are friggin usefull, but if you have any decent travel in your suspension, its a lot harder to get a tire off the ground unless you have REALLY sturdy antisway bars but no offroader would have that :-p but then again, subarus dont have much suspension travel... just saying, a farm jack doesnt replace a floor jack when it comes to working on your car.

ok after a bit of searching I found that shocks for 70 chevelle will work well for a 4" lifted ea81 in the rear... I'm curious what will work for the front and what wont break the bank(whatever is left of it anyways... ). I read somewhere that some toyota cartridges are a perfect bolt on mod for ea81 struts, is this true and does anyone have any information on this? as of yet I dont have any way to check or verify any information I come across yet other than people who speak to me on this board. are there any struts that will bolt right in perfectly w/ 4" of lift on an ea81? i'm trying to figure out how to get the most travel out of my suspension, any other suggestions? thanks... I did use the search button first too

yeah... I can see them now, looks pretty good for having drilled rims.. i need to find a cheep set of 15" wheels I can drill out yeah pretty much all i've done in the past when it comes to cutting stuff up is get crazy with the sawzall and hammer

back firing fuel pressure? do you mean back firing, and fuel pressure? how would they be a problem... anyways where the carbed turbo blow through that was gonna be explained..? I'm restless and want to put some rubber on the ground

nice... what bolt pattern are the 80s isuzu troopers? i dont see any empty holes or anything...? that or you did a really nice job of drilling them and then filling the other holes to make it look like nothing was ever there... great job, youve given me a couple ideas

when I first lifted my jeep, thats what i was thinking, and then I realized I could only jack from the trailer hitch or my front bumper, and on that car it would fall off the jack and roll before I ever got a tire off of the ground. a good sized floor jack is way better tool to have....but also weighs a good 100-150 lbs, but it cant winch you out of a mud puddle...

high lifts are only really usefull if you have either the right tools or attachments or right "vehicles and accessories". for a subaru the best it will do is probably winch yourself outta sticky spots untill you have some beefy bumpers and rocker guards to jack from... depending whats all already on your rig, you could put it on your rear bumper, on a roof rack, or on the front bumper... heck, you could probably MAKE that thing into a bumper or rocker by itself, most highlifts i've seen are beefy as hell.

yeah.. makes sense... I'm too easily brainwashed lol.. anyways I think my problem is solved for now... now I just need to find someone with some exhaust parts they are willing to give a way for free cause i dun have the money and equipment to fix my exhaust problems

dude I cant get over your avatar, I want a woman like that... damnit

do a search for mpfi and ea81s... most posts will tell you to do an engine swap, there is a very good write up telling how to go about spfi conversions, and also from what boosted said, turbo through spfi is kinda touchy.. so from that information I'm thinking, best thing for you is turbo through carb like what we are trying to get information on, OR an engine swap, I dont think mpfi w/ the ea81 is possible or recomended. twin turbo twin carb ea81 is an idea... maybe w/ spfi but I think I'm gonna stick to carbueration right now... think its possible, dont know if it'd be worth it or all that safe for the engine... but I dont want to deal with having to build a custom intake manifold if I can avoid it. also would port and polish and stroking the ea81 be worth it?

thanks... my friend didnt have the type of compressor that screwed in just the one you hold in place w/ the rubber fitting, and we didnt have a whole lot of time to warm the engine up. the engine only has 161k miles on it, hardly used at all considering its 25 years old, unless its 1.161 million miles, but has a soob EVER gone that far? anyways I did the brake fluid and carb cleaner in the pistons and let it sit for a while cranking it every so often, and then put starter fluid and the plugs back in and fired it right up... it sure clean it out a TON... the knocking is still there, but it is SIGNIFICANTLY less, once I get money for an oil filter or two I'm gonna run some b12 through it a couple times and I think that should finish it off. anyways I pretty much figure its not just the drivers side with the gummed up valves, cause the car did sit at least 5-9 years without any real use, just that the drivers side is weaker... but anyways the only real way theres gonna be a HUGE differance in pressure is if a valve is torched REALLY bad or a piston ring has gone out causing it to smoke a BUNCH which it doesnt. oh btw I found out I have a really bad exhaust leak after doing the brake cleaner(cause it smoked a whole bunch for about a minute)... I saw a majority of the smoke it was blowing out coming out from the side of the passanger side manifold right at the top of that down pipe, maybe why the passanger side is stronger I love this car hahah

shweet... looks raw what are your wheels? I like em

listen to russ before you listen to me ... if theres metal in the oil, ... what he said. anotherway to check is grab a strong magnet and see what it picks up out of the oil... most metal that comes out in the oil is going to be kinda powdery or really small flakes, not usually ever gonna get chunks of it or anything

you can pull a wire one at a time to try to see if the problem is located to specifically one part of the engine, and there are some other indications it can give you(but I dont know all of them). sounds like you've searched quite a bit, I would suggest maybe removing all the spare plugs, putting just a LITTLE bit of brake fluid in each cylinder, crank it a couple times(w/out plugs), add some more and just repeat a few times... and then put just a little more in, add some starter fluid and put the plugs back in and start it up... if there is any crap on the valves causing them to stick it should blow most of it away. I dont know how well this works yet but I'm about to try it on my engine and I will get back to you with how well this works.

if its snapped totally apart, I think the only quick fix is to either take everything off past where its broken and dont sit still w/ it running for too long, or weld it back together... maybe some of that exhaust repair stuff from a parts store and some tin cans and some clamps?

ok... just borrowed a friends compression tester, readings are as follows(with engine cold) Drivers side: 125psi 115psi Passanger side: 125psi 100psi so compression is kinda low, shouldnt it be up around 150-175? so probably stuck/dirty valves being a major contribution to the problem. will get some chem tool, but will also crank some brake fluid around in each cylinder a couple times w/out plugs, and then add more brake flug and starter fluid and put plugs back in, should loosen up everything and blow all the crap out of there right?

yes please.... especially if its cheaper and less time consuming and has more potential output than spfi...

lol all of that requires money... which I'm totally lacking :-).. thanks I will try that... that means I gotta take off my exhaust manifold cause the whole exhaust system is all rusted to crap anyways I just got up and I'm bout to go fool around with things, more and more I'm thinking its caused by sticky valves, cause the loud knock is also coming from that side... gonna run it for a while with a lil bit of mmo or atf and see what happens.

hmm... well pb blaster/wd40 that thing all to hell(looks like you probably did) and do it every so often for a couple days, also a couple things that might help: if its rusted try to break it loose a little by: tighten the nut back on really tight(carefull not to strip anything) and hit it a few times with a hammer and take it back apart, hit it with a hammer all around the sides of the joint, including in the opposite direction and then try to take it apart take your pry bar, put as much for as you can on it(helps to have helper stand on it w/ 5-10ft pole) and take your bfh and tap the pry bar and/or the joint.... if your car is 8 years old and in seattle, there could very well be rust on it in places you dont know. if there is a zerk fitting I would also try greasing it and working things back and forth. one other thing I might try, take a punch and put a small divit in the end of that bolt, and then take a 2 prong gear puller to it

are they here yet are they here yet?!

is there a way to test w/out having a guage? i dont have one and cant afford to buy one

theres no throttle cable in the newer soobies? well, I'm never buying a newer soob than.. also I'm never going to buy an automatic either, it totally sucks driving in the mountains and off road

try tapping it out with a hammer? be careful not to damage the thread, use a peice of wood or something between the stud and the hammer

what caused that?