scrap487

glad to see someone so involved. When I am done working this weekend, if i can sort through my problems with the state I will try and do what i can to support the cause.

man, how come we got stuck with the xt6 and you guys got the dual carb intakes blah *end hijack* sorry

I dont think length is a problem, I think because of the differant track widths there may be trouble making a shock work with the stock locations on the ea82 body and ea81 torsion bar without interferance from the body.

I dont quite understand whats on your car though, lets see if I got this straight: 2" body lift 3" suspension lift I'm confused, if you just have the 2" body lift and stock shocks in the back with a bracket that drops them 3", I'd get rid of the bracket and put in the new shocks and leave it at that. or leave the bracket in, clock the torsion bar and put in the new shocks. with longer shocks and clocking the torsion bar down one notch you will gain an incredible amount of travel, you WILL need to lower your diff more and/or get limiting straps.. ie: by the way, dont do anything like i did, it is ABSOLUTELY NOT SAFE TO USE A JACK LIKE THAT. Obviously that is without the rear axles in. This was after I clocked my torsion bar, it has even more travel than that but I couldnt safely produce any more flex than that(aka it almost slipped off when I tried for more)

thanks, I remember when you posted those pictures initially when you blew your rear output shaft... actually came across them earlier today :-) I'm going to be dedicating 2-3 of my days off work a week to this untill its done, biggest thing hindering my progress is money. I did most of my gutting and cutting this last week and next week I will be doing a majority of the metal work I can without the engine trans or tcase... engine is waiting for high comp rebuild($$), need to find 5 speed trans, and need to buy tcase($$). I'll start a build thread at the end of next week, the setup I'm aiming for SHOULD work out really sweet, and a good amount differant than what has been done before.. but unfortunately I wont be able to do anything cool like lifting the body off the subframe like you as it will stay unibody btw I got your CD in the mail today zap, I havent looked at it yet but I will be doing so after work tomorrow... thanks a TON

bring a winch and a chainsaw and you dont need lift. You dont see anyone using a subaru for rockcrawling, and there is a reason for that, they arent the greatest at crawling over large things like fallen trees, easier to either move, destroy or go aroudn the obstacle. Dont let us stop you, I say go for it and tell us how it goes. I see an air suspension like that being helpful for situations where articulation isnt required, like deep snow or deep water etc... less chance of breakage and just go easy on the throttle. If you want a buggie like your friends, best to build one just like them.

I dont see how that will gain any lift? looks like you got enough to drop the tranny radius rod plates and whats the deal with the struts? if ea81 you'll gain I think about 3" in the rear with the ea82 struts from what I've heard. I have no idea, but I do know your rear axles wont last long. can you give any more info about the lift? with any lift unless you do something to correct your camber the outside of the tires will wear more than the inside, and since rear toe isnt ajustable that may cause some minor handling/wear issues but should be a problem with tough tires.

If you have the gears in the tcase and the diffs and can get by without low range in the tranny it may be better, because the rear outputshaft is providing power %100 of the time and the gear reduction in the tranny is before anything else in the transmission. May help the transmission last longer, I've heard of people blowing up the rear output on these trannies. I dont know from any experiance yet so thats all speculation.

correct because the nissan transfercase is now delivering power to the front and rear axles instead of the subaru transmission

scared to do 60 in your hatch? My hatch w/ the ea71 I had well over 85 on my way home from buying it(btw the seller was selling it cause it didnt run, I drove it away). My street wagon I have up around 95-100 all the time... these motors can take high rpms all day... aircraft guys run them at like 8-9k rpms all day.

actually if you just want to make it easy(not on the wheelbearings though), redo the mounts and then just get wheels with less backspacing or get some spacers of some kind. good luck sorting out the shocks though.

probably with some modification... doesnt the ea82 have a wider wheelbase? I havent owned one so I dont know, but if you have any fabrication skills I bet it wouldnt be hard to cut off the stock mounts and make some new ones on the bar. not sure what it would take to make it wider, maybe cut it in the middle and ???

I have to agree, but it sounds like a fun project. You could go with slightly oversized tires and make it work, but I dont think it wouldnt be a street machine. I've thought about an air suspension setup on my lifted wagon, have it setup to run at 8" lift with my 29x11.50 swampers and then when I'm driving it around lower to 4" so its a little bit more pavement friendly. I just dont have the money for it and I have other plans at the moment. One thing you have to consider is axle angles and extension. I could totally see that being feasible if you're only talking going up a couple inches from stock height and using stock size tires. I dont know about mud but it sure would help with driving through deeper snow. While you could do the same thing without air suspension, its nice to be able to do it with the push of a button rather than a half hour adjusting the struts and torsion bar.

I really like the way your outback looks, the bumper makes it look far more utilitarian and spartan(which is what i like, simple and tough). I would consider doing something about those fog lights, with them exposed like that I would bust them in a day; maybe cut holes in the bumper and mount them inside? anywas I like it, cant wait to see the rear. Looks like you got plenty of protection for the bottom of your radiator too. Plan on building a skid plate for your oil pan soon? I dont have pictures yet of my rear bumper, but my front bumper was hacked together with some 3/16" wall squre tubing, you can see in my avatar. The rear bumper I just built for my DD wagon is a peice of 6" channel with the ends cut at an angle to match the body lines and then capped with a peice of 2" flat bar... its VERY sturdy, plan on adding a hitch reciever and cutting holes to put in some GOOD reverse lights so I can see... I'll make sure to get pictures then.

anyone? please, it would be a great help... I'm planning on doing some major modification and I have an idea in my head that is far differant than most people go about their tcase converison; it will pay off for the subaru offroad community in a few weeks when I get a major part of this project done. Also anyone have any idea which is the cheapest steel yard near portland? I usually go to the steel yard because they are close but my next purchase of metal will be fairly large. I'm gonna shop around a bunch when I get my paycheck on friday.

I've been brainstorming how I want to go about certain things with my lifted rig. Anyways I'm not going to get into the details and start a discussion I just want to see underbody pictures of how people did their tcase mod... I know exactly what the popular method is, I have just never seen it. Underbody pics are nice, would like to see where the tcase is relative to the transmission, would like to see driveline angles, the linkage/shifter, the amount of clearance between the tranny tunnel and the tcase and transmission, is the motor at stock height? lower or higher? etc... Thanks, Trevor

+1 for pulling it off, easy fastest way to get it off the trailer if thats what you need, just make sure it will slide off the ramps rather than take the ramps with it.

I'd buy a non-running ea82 car first to experiment on(cheap, expendable). you WILL need to build some kind of support to replace the roof you are taking out. Possibly incorperate that into a tube headache rack and such. You will see what you need to do one you get all the interior taken apart and out of the car, anything structural stands out and it will give you a good idea of what you need to do to replace the strength and rigidity it provides.

if you have any skill welding and and an angle grinder and some por15 you should be able to fix it with a few days work. depends how much sentimental value the car has to you. If you're serious about repair that, get the right tools and materials, get everything completely stripped off around the rust affected areas and go to town, honestly once things are apart and its ready to have the rust taken care of I dont think it would take more than a day, its just getting parts out of the way and such that may be time consuming. If you dont have the tools/skills how much are you prepare to spend? quick fix is get a cheap spray gun and spray por15 absolutely everywhere, will stop the rust. spray gun will probably be useless after your first or second use with por15 though.

any other symptoms? sounds like it may be starving for fuel at higher engine speeds... replace fuel filter and check fuel pressure. Does it do anything at lower speeds, like say when your flooring it right after a take off?

my ea81 wagon doesnt pull much at all past 60mph.... but thats due to some transmission problems and weird compression on the engine(125psi cyl 1 and 4, 195psi cyl 2 and 3); its got plenty of low end grunt though its unstoppable on curvy gravel roads with the right amount of weigh in the rear. the '86 ea71 hatch I just bought doesnt have too much low end cause the gearing sucks but it will pull nicely on the highway up untill about 85(probably faster but havent gone any faster yet) and still get a good 35-40mpg. Completely stock with properly tuned hitachi and everything intact. It drives real smooth for 217k on the clock right now I'm building an ea81 to put into my lifted rig. planning on using 9.5:1 ea82 spfi pistions and I think a 272 cam and hydro lifters, larger valves and I'm not sure if I want to do more than .020 off the heads yet, was thinking .040 but not sure if that'd be too much compression was planning on spfi but I'm thinking about possibly going dual webers. Should have that together in a couple weeks I'll post sayin how it goes when the time comes.

I wouldnt say that so soon... I dont believe NOAAs forecasts after reading elsewhere right now. I'm no meteorologist or even close... but what i've read and seen so far indicates this winter is coming early, will have more precip, and will be colder... and if it isnt I'm not gonna be happy. Mt hood is already covered in snow down to the treeline, which is a couple weeks earlier than last year and that means there should be snow on my farm in 2 weeks or less(I need to hurry up and get my rig back together with a tcase...)

I dont know a whole lot about ea82... but the special tools mentioned I'm sure can be "improvised" with something you may have readily available to you. I also dont think timing belts usually last 180k. Another thing that came to mind is possibly a sticking valve which could cause backfiring through the carb. I just went through that ordeal on a nissan l20b. When you crank it over is it trying to run and then backfiring and dying or it just wont try to run at all. Aside from checking the fuel pump check the fuel filters and float level in the carb to make sure enough gas is getting to the carb.

eh mechanical is fine I guess but installation is a pain, cost of parts may be low for the guage, but if you dont have the tools to drill and tap the hole to the correct size you're looking at a much higher cost. I've been struggling with the little tube for a while, tube that came with wasnt long enough and no place really made longer tubes so I had to get a couple of compression fittings and use 2 hoses, and it has busted twice near the mount, the tubing isnt anywhere near as strong as a larger metal sending unit. Came home from work one day and just driving down the highway, small rock flies up and hits it, I get home and then have a large puddle of oil in my driveway shortly after. I fix it, came home after looking at the hatch I just got last week and it got tweaked again. But maybe I just have bad luck. its a bit easier to deal with a screw to replace a wire than a bunch of brass fittings and an aluminum OP housing.