scrap487

ok you need 3 things for a car to run - spark fuel and compression. Check to see if spark is coming from the coil, if not check if it is getting power... if it is distributor is suspect. Check your ignition timing. Check your compression, low compression may indicate tbelt slipped/broke. Check for fuel, sounds like you have fuel though. Backfiring through the carb would indicate that either something is up with valve or ignition timing. I'm still a newb as far as engine tuning goes but those are the basics... others should be able to expand on that but that should give you a start. Whats the metallic sound you are talking about in the thread title?

2 things: 1) replace the pump, as stated before it's a good idea at 256k... cheap insurance. It should only cost you $80 tops at a dealer, which is better than many parts stores can do. 2) get a good aftermarket gauge and sender - mechanical is fine but electronic/digital would be my preferance. The gauges in these cars are notoriously inaccurate. It is normal for them to read 0 at idle and not go much above 25 when driving. I installed a mechanical gauge, when its cold it idles at 75psi and when driving it reads almost 95... dropping to about 30 at idle and 50-75 while driving when the engine is warm

so tomorrow I'm going to pick up this 86 hatchback for about $200, doesnt have spark, thinking the coil isnt getting power. I'm coming up short with ways to get it out of the guys parking spot so I hoping I can get it running to avoid paying a tow truck as its too far from home to tow it with a strap. can anyone come up with a wiring diagram that I could look at, even possibly list of a bunch of things to check through? I've done almost everything else to these cars except mess witht the ignition systems other than replacing the disty, havent really had anything else go wrong as far as ignition is concerned. Thanks in advance, Trevor

I wouldnt mind some 16s, but for some reason I dont think those wheels will be THAT cheap... seems to me those wheels would probably cost more like 150-200 bucks each; more money than I have. No nice shiny chrome wheels for my off road rig plz, thanks I'll stick with my 6x5.5 lug pattern there.

gonna let GD get to most of this stuff cause he usually does and knows a bit more about it than I do... Anyways, the 2wd to 4wd ea81 conversion is harder than most people realize apparently, theres more to it than just swapping the transmission and rear end. What exactly I dont know, just have heard it can be a headache. Fitting an ea82 motor may be difficult as it is ALOT wider than the ea81 because of the cam towers and such. You may have to cut the frame rails and modify those. For the ea82 5spd transmission you will need to build/modify your mounts/crossmember. I would either go the EJ route or build a good ea81; I've never touched an ea82. Lots of work for only 10 or so HP. Not too sure off the top of my head what upgrades can be done for no cost, what did you have in mind?

dont even THINK about tcase, or high, or big tires, if you want to buy not build your lift, unless you have tons of money. Alot of custom fab work to your vehicle needs to be done for anything much higher than 4" if you want it to be good safe and durable. As far as wheel bearings and stuff go it depends how you treat them and what kind of offset your rims have, and how tall your tires are. with the right offset and as long as you dont go huge on tires they will be fine. I'm running 29" tsl/sx swampers on my wagon(6" front lift and about 8-9" in rear) and I put about 5000 miles with no signs of any suspension or drivetrain problems(except the puny oem 1981 clutch) caused by the tires. When I initially built my lift it was somewhat flawed and I trashed 2 transmission mounts and came close to crushing a couple lift blocks, but that wasnt cause of the tires that was caused by my lack of patience and intelligence when I built it. Same deal goes for balljoints, dont overdo the tires and get the right offset rims. Other than that I cant think of many other original parts that failed due to my modifications(yet). Hope that helps, alot of the struggle you'll probably find out on your own. If I'm not making much sense its cause I'm somewhat sick and feverish and been working all morning. Good luck

I think SJR may be working on one, but as far as I know you're gonna have to build your own. I end up building mine... and to tell you the truth, I'm rebuilding the motor right now and I'm probably going up another 3-4 inches

maybe... what kinda advantage would that give? I'm sure I could have my local parts store bring some in to look at without having to commit to buying.

ok cool thanks... thought about ea71 pistons but it looks like the cr only comes out at only 8.885:1 or something like that? also read the oil ring lands arent very strong?

I'm not sure on trim level or year and I'm looking for some to put in the ea81 block I'm rebuilding and I dont think the parts store will be able to help me very much if I just say I need ea82 spfi pistons... the searching i've done hasnt given me much other than what i already know, that they will give me about a 9.5:1 cr. Thanks! Trevor

wow... you guys pay for that up there? I've never gone to a dealership but on other newer vehicles I've had I've always been able to go to any parts store and had it done for free. Doesnt make sense making you pay for that service considering all they do is hook up their tester thingy to one plug on your car, takes not even a minute, and that you're mostly likely going to buy whatever it is you need to fix your car through whoever pulled your codes. But then again its been a whole 9 months since I've owned a newer car with a computer so I guess things may have changed... :-\

what tires are those?

I cant remember how many times I've said this, but DO IT RIGHT, take the measurements, and then look up the shocks you need in a manufacturers specification chart, such as: http://www.gorancho.com/docs/2005_specifications.pdf Its not hard, trying to find a vehicle with similar specs to yours so you can order shocks for that other vehicle is just plain stupid and a waste of time. I've even asked that be put in the FAQ and its been ignored there but its a very frequently asked question.

um, well its fairly easy access for mice into the vents from outside the car, and I think possibly something about coolant in the heater core may attract them and eventually kill them when the car is sitting... after I'm done with this I'm putting screens over every possible extrance into the duct work, and also retrofitting a cabin air filter from some other car to help keep pine needles n crap from being sucked in and clogging up my heater core.

another thing you can do is turn the wheels to full lock on dry pavement, put it in 4wd and drive in a circle... the car shouldnt be too happy about that, will buck around, chirp tires, etc...

you may have to pull the heater core too... I found that in both my wagons that I have that they resided mostly underneath the heater core. I've spent the last 3 days taking my entire dash out and I found 3 dead mice in there this morning, dead for probably several years, fragile, dry, shriveled bodies not quite properly decomposed. Best to take it ALL apart if you want to get the smell out for GOOD, as soon as I pulled the heater core out of the car along with everything else the smell went with it. Also a good oppurtunity to clean up any wiring, touch up or paint parts of the dash and maybe do some work to the gauge cluster etc...

so untill I get some feed back about the DOHC engines, I'm guessing the ej22t is my best bet. Ok, so for the ej22t how would I coax 200+hp out of it from the 160 stock hp? I know more fuel + more air + bigger spark = more power... so bigger injectors, better turbo, etc... what parts specifically would I be looking at. I'm compiling a list of everything I will need for either the ej20g option or ej22t... thanks for all the suggestions and help! ps anyone know of any jdm importers in the pdx area? I didnt have much luck finding one today.

that might make trouble shooting a bit more difficult when I run into problems... do you know if the ej22t is dohc? I do want a turbocharged engine... but is it possible(without costing an extra arm leg and maybe an eyeball) to get a N/A SOHC motor to put out 200+?

the wrecked lego has a toasted automatic tranny, tho still good enough to drive onto a trailer apparrently Whats the differance in width between the DOHC and SOHC heads? if its not too much I may be willing to modify the framerails if anyone knows where I can grab some measurements. I know an ea82 will fit into an ea81 body with some cutting of the frame, and if the ej20g isnt too much wider than that I wont be worried about it. Doesnt look like a custom/modified uppipe would be too hard to make, may be easier than finding an ea81 turbo crossmember and installing that.

hmm... the less work the better, I'm sure I could live through the wiring if the ej20g is capable of that much. As far as expense goes would it be cheaper to go with said wrecked turbo legacy and find a tranny, or by something similar to that ej20g complete w/ tranny and everything? I know its my project but what would you guys recomend... as soon as you said 300hp easy you got my attention and if thats easily done without too much internal work if any, and for the same cost.... suddenly going to work next monday doesnt seem to be soon enough thanks chux... alot of the stuff you've written is a big help. XT6s or XTs even are very hard to come by around here(arent they everywhere?), so those parts may be hard to come by. Those transmissions with the locking center diff, were those cars part time 4wd or full time? cause as you said if it was only PT it would suck because with that much power fwd wont cut it. Isnt it possible of modifying the newer subaru transmissions to have the center diff lock? I need to read up some more on that, I remember reading that someone had done that, something like duty solenoid c or something like that, I think it was andyjo?

ok so I've seriously been considering an EJ swap for my stockish ea81 wagon, and I've been thinking more and more why settle for just an N/A EJ22? I potentially have a line on a wrecked turbo legacy, just going to be a little bit before I get enough money coming in to start the project cause I just got a new job and I'm not starting till next monday. This will be my first subaru motor swap, and I've never worked with forced induction here so my experiance is lacking, is there anyone near the portland area that has done a similar swap? or has some experiance that may be willing to lend some help when the time comes for tuning and such? My goal is to end up with a turbocharged motor in a light car pushing near 200hp+. Part of my desire for this swap other than it would be wicked fun, is my Ex-gfs dad has a '90 corvette(w/ the L98 and AT, not the ZR-1) he's always bragging about and talking smack about subarus... um yeah so I want to put him in his place. Any suggestions? I figure the ea82 d/r 5 speed wont hold up to that kind of power, so I think I'm going to have to find an awd 5mt out of a legacy, should I go with the 4.11 or 3.9 gears? For the internals of the motor, what machine work should I consider doing? Cams? Pistons and C/R? What about heads; are the turbo heads best to use and what should I have done to those? I'm thinking I will also need bigger better brakes, and I dont know if the ea81 axles and hubs would hold up to that much power... I was reading about the 5lug swap, but it seems like it requires a lot of xt parts which are somewhat hard to find used, can I use many parts off the wrecked legacy with or without a lot of custom fabrication and have it be safe? Anyways thanks, I'm sure I'll think of more questions or ideas as I do more searching and researching. My goal is to get the ALL of the parts i need for the swap by the end of october and then get everything prepped and ready before I begin the swap, and I'm hoping I can have the swap done by January. Edit: forgot about wiring, I have read about the temp and oil pressure gauges, but as far as wiring in all the sensors computers and all that stuff... also I'm guessing with this kind of project and my goals, I wouldnt be using stock ignition compenents or injects etc... I found a very helpful page that was made by numbchux but the wiring section of it either disappeared or was never there....

ok so my old highschool's football team is having a carwash on saturday(the 16th), accepting donations. Seeing as there are a bunch of panzies on the team this year I've thought about getting my car all muddy(something like it was at wcss8), and then taking it in after the mud has fully dryed and let them wash it off for the change in my ashtray(if I dont hear a satisfactory amount of moaning and complaining from them I may offer less or more depending on desired results). ANYWAYS, seeing as how we just got a bunch of rain, I really have a need to get my wagon completely caked with mud tomorrow night after work, and I'm at a bit of a loss of where I can go do do this with my STOCK ea81 wagon... I can go out to the place out in gresham off palmquist, but if cops see me leaving there with mud on my tires I'll get a ticket. so any suggestions help? a friend of mine said I should just get a drywall gun and hook it up to a compressor, jack my car off the ground get the wheels spinning and spray it all over the car and then hit the wheels as they spinning really good. But I'd rather do something a little bit more legit.

yeah, it really is... but when it doesnt, its just as bad if not worse than a hitachi... god darn nissan...... had this weber(missing some throttle linkage parts) on this nissan 720 pickup... it was very problematic and didnt run good at all, so we bought a stock hitachi carb for it, now it runs great, but not nearly as much power as the weber had when it would run good. trade hitachi complexity for webers FUBARB throttle linkage. really depends what you want. In either case, new and complete works best.

maybe someone slid into a curb or rock or something and bent the control arm or something causing the camber to be off by a bit? notice any odd wear in your last set of tires? I didnt exactly have that problem on my lifted wagon w/ 29" tires, well cause it was lifted, but you can visibly tell that one tire has more negative camber than the other(cause of the lift and giant tires).

plz delete