D-Cal

Interestingly, the front discs had the same bolt holes. One disc came off easy (looked like someone had done work recently) but the other was rusted on. I tapped it with a rubber mallet a couple times, no deal. Hooked the puller onto the holes and it came right off. Unfortunately the new replacement front discs didn't have the holes, but then again they got anti-seize on the back side before they went on.

Hate to resurrect an old thread, but I found this one while doing my own brake job and thought I would add some info. I used a $15 steering wheel puller I already had to remove the disc. The bolts on my 97 Legacy GT sedan were 8mm x 1.25. The puller made it super easy to pull the disc off. Just thread the bolts in a couple turns by hand, brace the "pusher" bolt against the end of the axle and tighten until the disc pops off.

Depends if those cracks endanger the valve seat stability or not. On my 8v turbo Dodge motors we ignore them. Most good shops can put a bit of weld in there if you really want.

Around here there are sections of highway that do not have shoulders at all - in fact the road slopes down sharply from the edge of the lane into the ditch. To make matters worse, 50% of the traffic is heavy rigs, some carrying oilfield parts large enough to drive my car though. Fun in the winter. I found an amazing little emergency toolkit at Crappy Tire. I bought one for each car and keep it in the trunk. Includes the usual tools, but also hacksaw, flashlight, roll of tape, test light, bit of mechanics wire, most of the stuff needed to bodge a repair on the side of the road (where there is a "side"). Saved my butt several times already. Good kit to take yarding too.

Guys, the scale isn't the same on his graph for horsepower as it is for torque - if they aren't the same, they of course won't line up at 5252.

The vertical scaling for hp/tq has to be the same for them to cross. Mathmatically, they must cross because horsepower is a function of rpm and torque.

MLS stands for Multi Layer Steel. I'm a relative newbie to Subarus, but many turbo imports in various arenas have been using them with good success. From your carnage pic it looks like there's a weak spot in the design unfortunately. Fel Pro makes a "Permatorque MLS" and they do list some Subaru applications, not sure if they make them for the earlier motors or not. Cometic also makes a good gasket.

Try a decent MLS gasket and some ARP studs instead of bolts. Be sure to follow ARPs torqueing instructions to the letter, including the lube.

I've had excellent luck with Raybestos pads.

Urethane bushings used, and did they grease them?

Mobil 1 in everything.

www.sdsefi.com They're good people.

I passed on the LM1 because I couldn't see myself reading the display at all while moving. I did a lot of research on WB before buying and I found that most kits satisfied the "basics" for WB tuning, but where they varied quite widely was in the "perks" like datalogging. Look closely at the software they provide, # channels they can datalog, etc. Some also give you more information than others about the health of the sensor, status of the heater, etc. Very important if you're trying to figure out whether the readings are real, or the sensor has gone bad.

The tip coating on the silverstars appears to be somewhat reflective on the inside of the bulb, which would cast more light onto the reflector. Otherwise the elements and components, even the method of construction seemed the same as the GEs, at least in the glass bulb. The metal bases were signifigantly different. I just held them up side by side and examined them in detail. They are probably made to different specs in the same factory. Buy a set like I did and find out for yourself. You actually expect a meaningful answer from a manufacturer? The silverstars are definitely brigher and I can see better, all I know. Didn't see any Xtraviews in the places I looked. BTW, there are $3-5 rebate coupons on the Sylvania web site for anyone thinking of buying a set.