FlyScooby

Thanks so much Tom. Snowman, I hope you got that too. Good luck Snowman. I will start project in a couple of weeks. Let me now how it turns out. With Tom's help I think we can pull it off--LOL

Thanks Shawn: I do have a question for you (BEFORE YOU TAKE OFF FOR THE MEET, IF YOU CAN) or anybody that can help. I found a post from you pertaining to the replacement of cam seals on on a EA-82. You suggested drilling holes into the seals and then screw in sheet metal screws to pull out the seal. Dose this work well? I'm a little worried about this procedure. Dose this method work well for the front crank seal as well? Are the timing gears on the front of the crank pressed on besides the main bolt? Back to the cam seals. Do I need to replace the O-rings on the camshaft front end caps? Dose most of the pressure/oil leakage come from mainly the seals. For the longest while I thought my new oil pump/seal was leaking. I think now this is not the case. Oil is come from front main crank seal. Please advise.

Thank you Skip and everyone else on this board for helping me keeping my soob from dying. I will be using public trans So I will have the opportunity to work on my soob periodically. Still have issues be back posting soon. Once again thanks everybody! P.S. Miles: Maybe in the future I will stop bye on a trip back to Mich. Have to replace axle and caliper also. Take care.

I probably did not make myself clear. The caliper is aready installed. When I installed it i set the piston as far as it would screw flush. I don't think this is the problem though. I think it is the bad cv joints causing the rubbing. And yes, the parking brake was disengaged before setting piston. More Ideas?

My 86 GL Wagon seams to have a front passenger caliper that seams to be putting pressure on my new rotor. I'm not sure if the piston is locking up, and/or the bad CV outer and inner joints are affecting the geometry. I suppose it is possible that my piston was not set correctly. Would it be more the bad CV joints or a bad caliper? The wheel bearings seam to be fine. On my first soob I think I had the same problem, but that was do to frame rail rust affecting the geometry. I don’t know if this is the case here. The caliper seams to flop around. Anybody have any ideas? S.

Beware: Knocking those bearings out with a drift is not that easy. I would just take the hubs to a machine shop and have them pressed out. I did 10 bucks a side. All 4 bearings Inner and Outer.

No pic though Easy custom tool... I made one with no welding. Simply bought a Craftsman socket (I forget the size, but you obviously know what it is) and ground the working end down to considerably shorten it - leaving slightly less than the full bolt head height of inside grip length. Then I ground the other end (the end that the driver plugs into) shortening it a little, stopping just short of compromising the ball detents, and ground that end into a conical shape - around 30° chamfer (30° from the plane that's perpindicular to the drive axis) all around. This gave plenty of relief for the socket to clear under the valve train and fit nicely to the bolt heads with room to spare. Cost: One Craftsman socket plus the time to grind it to minimum material. Another tool for the Subaru special tool box. Funny thing was that when I went to re-torque the bolts, there was no tightening required, but I was able to easily engage all of the bolts heads completely to test them. This was on an '86 turbo - the head gaskets are made of a different (harder) material than for non-turbo which may have made a difference. I used a Craftsman because I knew it had the best chance of holding up in its modified (weakened state). No problem.

To all: Trying to find drawing of a cut-down thin walled socket that Skip and Bill Putney put together. Skip can't find it. I can't find it. Anybody have it?

I will refrain from calling my soob a Trashwagon. I don't wan't onther law suit on my hands--LOL . There would be a class action suit here at this board--LOL:argue:

.....but this is number 2 for me--lol:clap:

Skip: There are 5 relays in a row. As you look up under the dash, the relay to the far right was unplugged. As soon as I plugged it back in the HIGH BEAM indicator on the dash became active. Now everything works right except the drivers side dose not work at all when the pass is in HI BEAM. I am going to swap bulbs. I really think it is a relay problem. I sure would like to know witch relays contol what. According to the diagram there are two relays that control the left and the right. Assuming that A.Zone is incorrect (often they are), then where can I get a accurate discription of thease relays? S.

Skip an everyone else: Tonight I had a "bright" idea--LOL . I look at the ECU light and it was blinking some error code. So, I decided to look further at the wire mess underneath. At that point I suspected a relay. I found 5 of them. Then I noticed the one of them was not secure and was unplugged. I plugged it back in and their was perfect light in both headlamps in low beam. In high-beam I get only one highbeam. Now that you tell me Skip that there are two relays, now I am wondering if there is another one that is bad....but what one? I have found this relay at the Zone for 9 bucks. So, I'm assuming both relays are the same for the right and left. I think this unpluged relay was my intermitten fuel pump problem as well, because accorrding to the Zone's discription it not only controls the headlamp, but the fuel pump as well. Where do I go from here to get both my brights working in high beam. Thanks again. Stacy:wave:

I'm not real new at alll (even though it seems like it--LOL). I have been registered on and off since the creation of this board under diff names. Excuse me for making a dumb mistake by not letting everyone know what year and make. 86 GL trashwagon ea-82:D I was kinda thinking it would be a very common problem. So, let the problem solving begin. I will have a multimeter tommorrow. Happy thanksgiving.:bday:

Both of my headlights are real dim. When I turn on the brights then only one headlight works in hi-beam. I was told that I could be a ground to the plug socket. I have replaced both bulbs. Could it be a headlamp relay? Any ideas:cornfuzz:

It turns out that my new fuel pump was intermit, and so i wired it directly to the batt with a inline switch. Must have been the FCU or relay. Anyway, it was a fuel delivery problem. Scooby flys again!

Hey Bozz: I have not tried gas yet, but it dose wan't to stay running with starting fluid when manually triggering the throttle at the carb. Once started it runs fairly smoothed then idles up, then shuts down. This Gremlin has me stumped. I pulled #1 plug while firing and has spark until the very last second it dies.

You guys were right it is a fuel delivery problem. I did replace the fuel pump. This did not work. My conclusion is that is has to be the the last summer pro rebuilt HiCrappy from Discount Carb. There is a restriction somewhere. Just don't know. Maybe it has something to do with running on the fuel in the bowl for 10 sec. Possibly the tiny screen filter, or perhaps the accelerator pump. I will tear it down tommorrow. Any ideas anybody?

My Nipp has one point on the reluctor seems to be slightly damaged. Is it easy to press off?

According to Haynes it is .008-.016. I had It set to .010 . Is this correct?

Adam: I'm not sure if what I speak of is a ignition amp. Could it be a noise suppression filter? It seems as though that this only came with the nippy disty and not the Hitachi. I have a nippy that has been rebushed. Stacy

It looks like a cylinder condenser attached to the bracket of the ignition coil. Any ideas?

I will do this tommorrow morning after SKip suggested that I make a starter bypass switch to start motor under hood.

John: I have a clear inline fuel filter...and it appears that it is clean and unplugged. I have seen fuel spit out of the carb. Fuel is getting to the carb--unless the primary is not getting fuel, but that dose not make sense. The carb is a pro rebuilt Hitachi. I will look hard at the fuel system, but do not see the problem with the fuel pump. It pumps fairly well into container. So, you are saying even though the fuel pumps it may be not enough pressure therefore I have a bad fuel pump. Note: In the past I have a similar problem. I played around with the coil wires then it would stay running.

:banghead: Help! MY 87 GL Wagon EA-82 Carb has I believe to be a electrical problem. I just put a new alternator on and it has a Accel ignition coil. I have re wired the Alternator oulet. I can't seem to locate the the problem point. My next step tommorow will be to replace all of the connectors to the new Accel ignition coil. I don't think it is the pick-up coil. The tach dose not jump everywhere. The batterry is fairly new. I have also cleaned and rewired the fuseable link box. Is it likely that maybe some bad internal wire at the ignition coil post might be nocking off my voltage.:boohoo: Help Skip or anybody! May we chat a little on yahoo or ICQ. Stacy