Dylan86GL10

Your transmission lives happily my GL.

Reviving the dead but how does the trim at the rear windows come off? I'm fixing the same situation myself right now.

Sounds like it would work!

Here you can see that I got rid of the six wire plug (since I didn't have the female end) and used spare two wire female plugs (green circle) to hook the new wiring to:

I didn't get the dash harness either so it was a lot of cut and splice. The reverse light on the dash isn't working right yet. If I ground the wire direct, it'll come on, but when its grounded with the reverse lights it doesn't. You can see in the auto switch there are two separate paths. I'll post the correction when I get it sorted out.

There's nicer ways to ask for more info but it wasn't directed at you Your mileage may vary but here's what I got: This is what the connectors look like versus the wiring diagram: This one test out as the neutral on mine ("on" in every gear, "off" in neutral) The reverse was on the same side as neutral but had two red wires (same as low and diff lock, neutral had two blacks: If you are swapping from a 3AT you need to wire to this connector: With these wires run to the reverse switch: And to bypass the park/neutral auto starter situation do this: Let me know and I can double check tomorrow.

xbeerd, that sounds odd. The light green /black on the two pin connector was neutral on mine. The g/gw was reverse. I got this tranny from grossgary and I think it was an 88 or 89 RX. The neutral and reverse switch are on the driver's side. The low / diff lock (for FT ones anyway) are on the passenger side. I can take a pic of the two switches tomorrow. I believe reverse was the lower one, more to the rear of the car.

"Actual wire colors may vary slightly. Use the wire position to locate." http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102408

Sounds like you wired up the neutral switch. This is for FT DR but should be similar: On the 6 wire plug: The position of G/BG is low light switch The position of B/LR is diff lock switch The position of BW/G is reverse (mine was actually GW/G) On the two wire plug: LR/B is neutral switch (or rather in any gear its "on" in neutral its "off") All are simple on/off switches and not to ground or anything. Actual wire colors may vary slightly. Use the wire position to locate. Again, not to restate the obvious, just to break it down. Also if you didn't get the 6 wire plug end from the donor car, if you follow the 6/2 wire plugs back up towards the rear of the tranny, you will find the switches all originate with a twi wire male end that is very common. In my case, I had several of the female ends I clipped off unused wiring.

Just for my own future reference On the 6 wire plug: The position of G/BG is low light switch The position of B/LR is diff lock switch The position of BW/G is reverse (mine was actually GW/G) On the two wire plug: LR/B is neutral switch (or rather in any gear its "on" in neutral its "off") All are simple on/off switches and not to ground or anything. Actual wire colors may vary slightly. Use the wire position to locate. Again, not to restate the obvious, just to break it down. Also if you didn't get the 6 wire plug end from the donor car, if you follow the 6/2 wire plugs back up towards the rear of the tranny, you will find the switches all originate with a twi wire male end that is very common. In my case, I had several of the female ends I clipped off unused wiring.

Good job and well done. I love it.

Probably the six wire harness that comes from the back of the switches I'll post a pic tonight.

Thanks! I do have that one, I'm looking for anything that shows the wiring that runs from the HVAC controls (heat, bilevel, defrost, ac, ac max over the fan speed and wiper switch) I haven't ever seen this set of switches covered on any diagrams.

Does anyone have an EA82 wiring diagram for the a/c-heat controls (at the dash)? I've searched every wiring diagram I have and don't see anything more than the blower relay wiring covered. Thanks!

For info on the resistor pack: EA82 Blower Resistor Pack Info http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/resistor-pack/resistorpack.html The blower should have 12v+ from fuse 1, 2, 12 and the switch should control the grounding to the motor (through the resistors to control speed) Hope this helps

I've been battling the dreaded starter click and/or intermittent ability to start using the key. This is always a case of the current at the starter solenoid being too low (whether the fault is in the supply current to the solenoid via the key switch, low current from a drained battery, bad grounds at the starter, defective solenoid...). At first I was going to wire in a relay to increase the current but decided to start with the key switch itself. To remove the switch portion of the key switch, remove all the screws on the bottom of the steering column trim, lift the top half off, and remove the bottom (may have to maneuver it around the key switch body). On the left/driver side, you will see heavy gauge wires with big solder joints going into a round brown connector. Remove (1) phillips head screw at the 12 o clock position. Pull the switch portion out of the key cylinder. Unhook the wiring harness (6 wire black connector with 4-5 wires). Bring all of this inside and gather a q-tip, alcohol, a small flat head screw driver, and some sandpaper. You will see three indentions in the metal portion of the switch that holds the brown plastic part from coming out. Use the flat head to lightly bend these indentions back out. Pull the switch apart being careful not to lose the spring inside or the two spring/ball bearings in the blue plastic insert. Here is where the majic happens. The wire harness side has copper contact pads and the key side has a rotating copper disk with contact points. Clean all of this with alcohol and light sand the contact points just enough to bring the shine back. Reassemble the switch like it came apart. The next part is slightly tricky. Use a nail or punch to bend the metal indentions back in on the brown plastic part without breaking the metal. Once done, insert back into the key cylinder and test it out. In my case, I have full starter function again even on cold days.

The MS I kit is only $139. I've been using the v2.2 board with Nissan injectors and a wideband. 380cc is way too big for the EA82T IMO if you aren't controlling the fuel in anyway. You got a great deal on them though! I'm assuming the price you listed was for (4) .

The issue I have here is the constant "turbo's are bad for 4x4" cause they don't have any low end torque. Which I think is baloney. Really if we compare a _properly tuned_ mpfi turbo motor to a spfi or carb, the torque lost to compression is negligible. Then add a proper exhaust system and boost control, and you have way more torque as early as 2000 rpm. I think most people confuse the issue with the torque perception. NA motors have a more linear torque curve. Turbos can be more exponential before leveling off. So it _seemed_ like the turbo motor had no balls off turbo, when really it was pretty much the same as stock NA motor. I like constant power too but cc for cc, NA just cannot do it vs turbo/super. I'd rather have a 300hp v8 vs a 300hp i4/h4. Problem is stuffing the v8 in the same car a turbo i4/h4 will fit in.

I love the turbos suck comments. As if the motor has _less_ torque at any rpm than some busted old ea81 or 82. Sure turbo torque insn't instant but it doesn't decrease the N/A torque of the motor, only adds. BTW turbo's kill NA on hills

I ordered 8 (2 back up for me, and 2 backup for my buddie that I gave my white wagon to) so it was over $50. He say's they're out of stock and that it would be 2-3 weeks before they shipped. Its COD so I don't really care.

Yes synthetic oil will help the turbo. It won't burn up on the bearings as fast as reg oil. No you do not have to run water to the turbo. It is there to keep it from overheating after shut down. So don't shut down the motor with a hot turbo, k? IE don't race down the street, pull in your drive way and cut it off. Its a bigger problem where the turbo is mounted to a large cast irom manifold that will retain and transfer a lot of heat after shut down.

Well he only ships COD so I get to pay the UPS man when he gets here

Run two 40 amp relays off the battery triggered by the stock headlight wiring. For $7.40, I'm going to order a bunch to keep around.

thank you for your inquiry for Flosser Light bulbs thru the Flosser Web Site. Please note that we represent Flosser in the US. Flosser products are being shipped from a warehouse near Chicago 9104 can be offered at $ 7.40. Orders over $ 750.00 would ship freight prepaid. We thank you for your interest and are looking forward to your further news best regards Thomas Walter Thomas Walter & Associates Phone: 954-714-8798 Fax 703-814-4976 E Mail: ThomasW891@aol.com