Dylan86GL10

You can buy the MS preassembled and tested with support from both RS Autosport and DIYautotune. I've met both guys and they are great. DIYautotune did WJM's install.

Boosted, you can just breather the cam covers, its not the best setup but wouldn't be any different than any other older motor. You CANNOT tee the air tube connection to atmosphere as it will screw the MAF signal. I have a catch can setup on mine that works good and didn't cost much. The idea to the stock setup, is that you draw fresh air across one head, through the crank case, and through the other head. It also keeps the PCV system "closed" to outside air not passing through the MAF. The dual breather will vent pressure but doesn't do as well getting fresh air into the motor (helps with decreasing oil contamination and engine acidity). The stock ECM really doesn't need any of the vac lines to run but you'll lose egr, evap, function if you get rid of them. Of course don't get rid of any FPR or 4wd lines. I would get the MS on before monkeying with the stock stuff. Its so much more user friendly. I have a MS1 MsNs'e v2.2 on my 86. The DIYautotune.com write up is right on for your 87. Eventually, my egr and stuff will get function back on the auxillary outputs. I haven't really tuned mine in (still fighting the rear axles out for months so I can get the right rear in there).

Hey Meeky, I need to go too!!!

Don't use additives expecially PTFE teflon. The FTC has sued Slick 50 over its use and advertising. Just use a quality oil and it will have its own additive package.

Do not buy synthetic blends, if you'd rather run a blend, buy a quality synthetic and a quality conventional and mix 50/50. Synthetic blends contain very low % synthetic for the money.

Both untrue. If you use a high quality filter, it will hold more "dirt" than the crappy $1 ones. The oldest API approved synthetic company (AMSOIL) recommends 12,500 miles on their synthetic oil filters. On the previous subjects: If you have a high mile crapped out or badly maintained motor that is held together by gunk, then you'll probably notice more leaks with synthetic as it tends to clean the motor out and dissolve all the gunk Synthetic oil is less volatile than conventional so evaporative loss will be less with synthetic Synthetic has a more consistant molecule structure than the conventional oil soup so it has a higher burn point, is more stable, and affords more engine protection QUALITY synthetic oils have a higher TBN (total base number) than conventional and will resist enginea acidity longer You save money in the long run by using extended drain intervals, with quality synthetic oil and have better engine protection

Maybe I'm dense but I don't see the big fuss about the "your car is going to melt into a pile of goo". Everyone flipped out about biodiesel too. Whats it going to cost change all those old rubber lines and o-rings to something resistant anyway? $30-50? Serious, on a SPFI or MPFI, the stock ECU is crap, MAF barf. I'm running a megasquirt just because anyway. MS1 - run dual tables MS2 - get a FlexFuel sensor off ebay and it will automatically adjust the mixutre for the % of alcohol in the gas

There is a company about to release a new process using sugar and a different microbe.

Done

All the poor emissions controls from the 70's through the early 90's was simply due to lack of technology. I bet those newer soobs with larger engines pump out cleaner emissions than the older heavily restricted ones. Case point the early turbo dodges (84-87 turbo 1 147hp) had egr, the later didn't (88+ turbo 2 175hp). It wasn't that emissions targets got easier it was the electronics and consequently the tuning that did.

Richard Nixon? Wow! Who would've thunk?

On the turbo, the ECU grounds both the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump. Compare to the SPFI and at most you'd have to run another wire or two from the ecu connector back to the pump connection. http://dodgeneon.net/subaru/

Synthetic 10w-30, best of both worlds.

I swapped subframes in the end. Been off here for a while trying to catch up with all my other projects.

Are we getting into the turbos suck for offroading discussion again? I thought this was about motor mounts, but thanks.

Split pea-soup wagon

Its got a 4" AA lift on it now and I'm going to "Lift" the engine back towards the body to clear the exhaust.

Thanks David, I've done quite a bit of work on it. The body was TOO nice compared to my GL10 so its getting most of the goodies. Boy am I going to miss the sunroof though. There's still some bolts and things I need to get (no one stocks M12x1.25 longer than 100mm around here) as the AA 3AT kit doesn't have all the parts for the 5sp tranny mount. I'm planning on spacing the motor mounts. This will do two things, clear the exhaust and reduce possible engine damage off roading. I've got some ideas on what to use and will mess around with it tomorrow.

I'm installing my EA82T into the carbed poop wagon I bought from FirstGLWagon: So I'm having trouble lining up the motor mount bolts when I spy: Campared to: The turbo subframe clearly is clearenced for the turbo exhaust. Anyone deal with this without swapping frames? BFH? Thanks!

Poopwagon here we come:

Here's the way mine is run: Pass side stock Driver side, run straight up into "Brake Booster filter" from the "help" section of Advance to let the vapors expand and condense on the filter and run back into the motor, from these it goes into an ebay catch can mounted where the A/C was, then into the pcv valve. Total Cost: About $20

Gotcha, I'm running EFI dual fuel so it will be mixer then efi throttle body which wouldn't be any more restriction than a LPG mixer on a LPG throttle body. I would get rid of the petrol too, but I'm also doing flex fuel for E85, sort of a MAD MAX this car will run on anything (dreaming of a diesel swap).

Yeah that's what I meant, I have the N/A block (80,000 miles) with turbo heads, so in my case, I have higher than _stock turbo_ compression which the higher octane will help with. I meant most suby guys aren't going to 11:1 + compression which is where propane really shines and regains something efficiency lost with the lower btu content.

What's the restriction of dual fuel? Compression ratio? I don't think most people are going to change compression ratio on their soob. I have a standard compression (n/a block) EA82T so the LPG will help given the turbo.

Here's the way mine is run: Pass side stock Driver side, run straight up into "Brake Booster filter" from the "help" section of Advance to let the vapors expand and condense on the filter and run back into the motor, from these it goes into an ebay catch can mounted where the A/C was, then into the pcv valve My setup (turbo etc...) will be pretty much the same as yours once its swapped into my other wagon